EGR Issues

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Old 02-06-2011, 11:43 PM
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EGR Issues

I have a 99 TL, the code says bad EGR so I have replaced it twice, the engine light as well as the TCS light always come on after i have replaced them..... any one know how I could possibly fix this?
Old 02-07-2011, 08:45 AM
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I also have a 99tl and I've gone through the persistent EGR code issue.

First off, what code are you getting ? I know that sounds silly, but if you're chasing the wrong code, we'll be here a while......

Have you cleaned the manifold and ports, both on the I'M and underneath the ERG valve ? Did you use a coat hanger to get right down inside the journals ?

What ERG valve did you replace it with ? Was it OEM or an aftermarket ?
Old 02-07-2011, 12:11 PM
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thats the key- remove intake manifold- soak passages with carb cleaner or solvent= poke a wire coat hanger or similar rod thru the length of the passage in the manifold and clean the ports at valve too

many have replaced valve or poked weakly from the surface at holes,
or even thought they did everything perfect, but missed the length of passageway thru manifold
OR the hole in lower manifold was recently clogged on a higher miles 99
first time I heard of that area being involved too
Old 02-07-2011, 01:52 PM
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You, like the others have said NEED to clean the EGR port in the IM and between the IM and EGR or you will keep getting this code.
Old 02-07-2011, 05:57 PM
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its time for a new diy specific for the egr and the correct procedure
Old 02-17-2011, 08:11 PM
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I have an after market egr valve, so to clean it do I remove the egr valve and clean out the port? would a spray work or do I have to use a coat hanger and "Poke" it in the hole as an earlier post stated? the dang code is annoying. thanks for the replies in advance.
Old 02-17-2011, 09:10 PM
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rare is the actual valve the failure on egr prob- just clean and lube its operating shaft
If it moves smooth-its working,,closes off exhaust flow to intake manifold at idle and full throttle- rest of the time its open and crudding up the passageway

you must remove the entire intake manifold (not difficult) from the engine and place on workbench
Soak-spray and poke clean the entire length of the egr passage thru the manifold from the valve opening to the open end
and each egr port to a cylinder--see DIY for pics
poke the lower block port if it looks bad too

serious rinsing and drying of manifold is required, no crud loose or water hiding anywhere!!
that can destroy the motor in seconds on startup
Old 02-17-2011, 09:13 PM
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falcon -please clear your inbox before asking for help by PM--annoying to reply with detailed plan and have it go nowhere

also- it requires 3 cans carb cleaner, possibly a toothbrush and some shop rags to get the crud out
not poke at it dry--wont get results but will make a nice mess
Old 02-17-2011, 09:25 PM
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Sry bout that 01tl4tl I am new and only can have one message in my box. will do that this weekend , i am fed up with the light coming on.
Old 02-17-2011, 11:40 PM
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its a cleaning procedure every one of our cars needs approx every 75kmiles

Imagine being our Super Moderator- who has over 400,000 miles and going on his 00!!
(running a CL-S engine with 6 speed manual trans since 200kmiles/5 auto trans failures)

Talk about changing spark plugs and cleaning egr on an annual basis~
Old 02-22-2011, 04:39 PM
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Hello guys. I'm having the same issue.

I get a code P1491.

I replaced the EGR valve and had someone clean the manafold about a year ago.

Is there a DYI for the manafold? I may try that again.

Could this be a controller issue?

Sometimes when I first start my car I have to rev the engine to keep it running, for a few seconds. Is this a symptom of 1491 or something else.

I also have a weird problem with my AC/heat. I will put it on auto and every now and again it just doesn't work. It's on all the lights are there, but no air is blowing, in auto or manual.

It did this yesterday and after a few minutes it came on full blast.
Old 02-22-2011, 08:19 PM
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see cabin fan motor threads for heat issue

diy list is 3rd item down the main gen2 thread list
EGR valve cleaning and thermoblock install are together

low rpm--gas? plugs? iacv dirty
proper cleaning means : the intake was removed from the car and a wire rod and carb cleaner or solvent run thru it to remove the carbon buildup in the main passageway and the ports to cylinders and under egr valve
Old 02-26-2011, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
see cabin fan motor threads for heat issue

diy list is 3rd item down the main gen2 thread list
EGR valve cleaning and thermoblock install are together

low rpm--gas? plugs? iacv dirty
proper cleaning means : the intake was removed from the car and a wire rod and carb cleaner or solvent run thru it to remove the carbon buildup in the main passageway and the ports to cylinders and under egr valve
The guy that serviced it said that he took the manafold off and cleaned it, but that was only 20K ago. I had saved the original EGR valve, because I didn't believe it was bad. Went to put it on today and it was missing in action. Oh well.


I need to find the DIY section. I hope it has strut replacement as well as the manafold.
Old 02-26-2011, 10:57 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

there you go- the master gen2 thread list, ck both postings in it- for newest ones may be added to bottem
Old 03-04-2011, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706083

there you go- the master gen2 thread list, ck both postings in it- for newest ones may be added to bottem

Thanks. What is the thermoblok spacer for?

The link with just the cleaning is for a pay site. Hmmm.

I'm sure it's worth $15. Does anyone know if you can print out the directions?
Old 03-04-2011, 11:02 PM
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doh! acura took away our old diy pics and made their own tech site
someone needs to put together a new one with hosted pics
Who has some recent ones

thermoblock spacer is to reduce heat transfer from engine to intake manifold.
lower air temps there= better density/thicker air = better combustion,,
and more torque pushing down on the piston for your buck,,or 4 bucks a gallon~

ever seen drag race tv shows/Pinks where they put bags of ice on the manifold between runs--removes built up heat and cold soaks the metal for the next run.
As the air moves thru the TB and throat, it increases temp from compression and airspeed increase
Old 03-04-2011, 11:08 PM
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do a regular search engine ck for EGR cleaning+acurazine.com
or egr cleaning on youtube or repair site

our search wont use 3 letter like egr,,but outside ones will and the + zine makes it ferret thru here

So review where you are at--
hows the cabin fan situation? bad transistor or bad connector to power?
Is the idle still funny when cold?
have you reset the ECU by pulling clock fuse- or removing neg battery cable works, but is more work~
Old 03-04-2011, 11:37 PM
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this thread is full of WIN
Old 03-06-2011, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
do a regular search engine ck for EGR cleaning+acurazine.com
or egr cleaning on youtube or repair site

our search wont use 3 letter like egr,,but outside ones will and the + zine makes it ferret thru here

So review where you are at--
hows the cabin fan situation? bad transistor or bad connector to power?
Is the idle still funny when cold?
have you reset the ECU by pulling clock fuse- or removing neg battery cable works, but is more work~

I think I'm getting old. I haven't done anything except remove the egr valve and clean up the valve. I reset the code with the OBD2 computer.

The fan thing is intermitant and I don't think about it until it happens. I'm sure as soon as it gets hot I will think about it more when it happens.

The idle is also intermitant. It decided to get cold again here in ATL, so I'm going to wait until it warms up. I have a week in may when the wife and kids go on vacation. I will have plenty of time then.

Thanks for all the information. I'm considering buying the spacer kit.
Old 03-06-2011, 09:26 PM
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The full EGR port cleaning is a must if you want to correct the EGR lift code. You might also want to do a "hard" reset on the ECU by pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery. It resets all the low voltage settings on the ECU which controls the EGR valve.

As for the spacer, I know the super-maintainers think is does something, but I've not seen any independent reports that support the performance improvements they claim.

So, unless you have extra cash to spend, pass on the spacer.

Last edited by smartypants; 03-06-2011 at 09:29 PM.
Old 03-06-2011, 11:57 PM
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the small improvement in lowered intake temps is barely butt dyno noticable--say 5 hp at the wheels- but it does help the engine maintain full power when its hot out and engine working hard,,be that sea level and 110 degree F or 6000 feet and 80

example- visit fries at 5230 feet and its 90 degrees- thats a high `density altitude`--approx 8000 feet the car thinks its at,, based on air density.
with the thermo specers of either brand- the car still runs like its at sea level--you would win a race against an unmodded TL in the same conditions
it gives power curve slight move to the left- pulls harder sooner

if you can keep your foot off the right pedal, it will give slight increase in economy as well
Old 03-07-2011, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
the small improvement in lowered intake temps is barely butt dyno noticable--say 5 hp at the wheels- but it does help the engine maintain full power when its hot out and engine working hard,,be that sea level and 110 degree F or 6000 feet and 80

example- visit fries at 5280 feet and its 100 degrees- thats a high `density altitude`--approx 8000 feet the car thinks its at,, based on air density.
with the thermo specers of either brand- the car still runs like its at sea level--you would win a race against an unmodded TL in the same conditions
it gives power curve slight move to the left- pulls harder sooner

if you can keep your foot off the right pedal, it will give slight increase in economy as well

btw i corrected your mile high (50 feet short btw) and also we normally hit a 100 for a couple of days a year too)





and if you really want low air density, try going up into the mountains, especially

first you can try trail ridge road up in rocky mountain national park at over 12,000 ft (it is a slower road due to sight seeing people, so you could say you don't need a whole lot of power)

or you can try loveland pass at 11,990 feet, again a slightly slower road, iirc speed limit is like 35 or so

OR if you really want to, try the Eisenhower tunnel, where when you enter the tunnel on the east side, it is like exactly 11,000 ft (by GPS), but heres the best kicker though, you are doing like 65-75 (or faster at timres, and YES sometimes traffic does move at that speed) or so getting up to it at times, basically you better have good power to get up at a decent speed
Old 03-07-2011, 09:24 PM
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I'd clean it with some seafoam deep creep. That stuff is better than carb cleaner and one can will go farther than several cans of carb cleaner. Spray let it sit, clean. Spray it again, let it sit and clean. It takes time for the carbon to break down. It is a pain only because it takes a while, but plan on doing some other work to your car at the same time and do those projects while you let the deep creep sit and do its job.
Old 03-12-2011, 08:34 AM
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New user what up from CLT. What up,
So yea I have to clean this port every year to pass inspection. Is there a way to bypass the egr sensor and be done with it?
Old 03-12-2011, 10:07 AM
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if you do the diy fully, by removing intake manifold from engine for cleaning
you only have to clean the ports and passageway system every 75kmiles

the prob with seafoam on this job: seafoam works best with SOME HEAT to liquify the carbon buildup
it will work cold, but for the price per can-- its easier to use carb cleaner to do egr
Solvent tank works even better!!
Old 11-29-2011, 07:05 PM
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ERG Warranty Repair

I was told 1997 RL could have ERG module replaced up to 150,000 mi OR less than 14 yrs old. I have missed the time deadline by three months. Any way to
get dealer to honor the warranty, they say too late?? I have 141K miles and just discovered this.
Old 11-30-2011, 12:10 PM
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this is the 2nd gen TL section- try in your cars section
but past warranty limit exceptions usually require some money spent in the past at dealer

are you having egr failure code?
tried the egr port and passage cleaning procedure of the intake manifold yet?
its not in the maitenance schedule but is needed every 75kmiles on the TL/CL
ck operating arm of egr valve -lube for easy movement
Old 12-07-2011, 08:59 AM
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No warranty repair for my egr in my 2000 rl with 110,000 miles on it. $420. ouch!
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