I have a "parts car" that is the same model/colour as the one I am fixing (2003 TL).

The power lock actuator in the left side rear door is weak, I can feel it trying to unlock the door, but just can't make it.

Is it easier to take the doors apart and swap actuators, or just swap the whole doors?

I would prolly want to completely swap both doors so rain doesn't get at the leather, even in the parts car.

Thanks for your opinions in advance.

 

If you swap the actuator, you have to take off the door panel and mess with the door internals, etc. If you swap the whole door, once you bolt it on you likely have to adjust for fit/finish. Also even though the paint code is the same on both doors, they may have weathered differently due to sunlight, etc...so it might not match as well as the one that is on the car now. So just a few things to think about.

 

Thanks Red,
I don't think paint weathering is an issue, they are both silver and I have already swapped front bumper skins with no tell.
I had already considered the other factors, but with no experience it is difficult to quantify. How heavy is the door; how finicky are they to align; how deep in the internals of the door is the actuator, etc, etc, etc.

 

Doors are somewhat weighty, but I don't think it's anything an average guy can't lift. Rears are lighter than front I think too. I've aligned a trunk lid but not a door, however it's usually just a matter of loosening bolts, adjusting where the panel is sitting, and re-tightening again.

Replacing the actuator shouldn’t require you toget as much into the guts of the door as if you were replacing a window regulator or motor. But I haven’treplaced one myself so I can’t say 100%, though I really need to replace my passenger side. Anyway here are a few videos, YouTube is your DIY friend.

How to remove door panel on 2000 TL



How to replace door lock actuator on 2005 TSXand 2002 RSX, respectively.

I haven’t watched those completely but these videos are all over. Here’s a couplemore for Honda/Acura vehicles. They shouldn’t differ too much.


If it were me, I would probably just replace the actuator itself.

 

again thank-you!!
Although my experience with videos where the model is not exact has not been good...
I recently needed to replace my DPMS module:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...roblem-937200/

and I watched the video for a 2004 TL and it was completely useless.

The 2004 made perfect sense; but the 2003 IMHO is ridiculously over-built in that area.

I think I will start by seeing how easy it is to get at the actuator; if it seems painful, I will switch to swapping doors. Again, thanks for your help.

 

Do not swap doors. You will end up scratching the paint on your car. Plus the paint will not match perfectly.

Much easier to replace the power actuator. An experienced person can change that in half hour. 15 min for door panel / 15 min for actuator. Person with no experience about 2 hours. Go to an auto shop and buy a door panel tool.

Pick one.










Diy rear door panel/actuator.

1. Inner door handle.

Look for a dime size plug in the inner door hand recess.

Use a small screw driver and pop that off. Take the screw out. Now slide the handle forward and outward just a little to get access to and disconnect the clip from the rod. Five minutes very easy.

2. Inner door panel.

Held on by one screw, 7/8 snap in-clips around the perimeter about 4/5" apart, and hung to the door frame at the top edge.

Take the screw out just below where you would grab to close the door.

Use the panel tool and pry the clips away from the door frame. Start at the back edge so you can see it. Work all the way around until all are loose and door panel is just hanging by the top edge.

Now carefully lift the panel straight up. It will come off. Now close the door window. With ignition off then unplug the the power window wiring from the back side of the door panel... while you're holding the door panel at the same time.

3. Power Acutuator.

Peel the plastic weather barriers off. You can cut the caulking with a razor if you want.

Where the rods go into the door... remove the one screw and slide the plastic rod cover off. It's hook on at the rear. Disconnect the door rods from the clips. Remove the three #3 Philips crews holding the door latch on (rear door jam on the exterior). Then unplug the two wire connectors. Fish the latch/lock actuator out.

To install reverse procedures.

 

as usual, your help is "over the top"; thanks again!!!

 

Hi Bob, Thought I'd ask about a new problem, I searched the site, but my problem is a bit different:

Driver's door window - if I don't let it go all the way to the bottom it works perfectly, nice an smooth.
But sometimes if it does bottom out; it takes a lot of "tries" to get it to come back up.

Which part to replace? I have a parts car.