Hello!! This is my first post here after years of reading and gleaning some great information from this website, so here goes...


Okay, I have a 2001 3.2tl that is giving me fits of rage!! LOL!!... but seriously, this is a strange problem I've been dealing with for years and NOBODY can figure out the exact problem.

Issue:

In the morning, I will get in my car and try to start it. Normally, Honda's & Acura's start on the first start, IMMEDIATELY, but now it just cranks and cranks and cranks over but will not start?!

Now for some background... I am 51 years old and have worked on cars since I was a child (my father was a mechanic), so I know my way around them pretty well. What I have found out after much trial and error is that if and ONLY if I turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position, wait until the fuel pump stops priming, then turn it back to "OFF", THREE times and THEN try to crank it up, it will start up every time. It is obvious to me that the fuel in the fuel line is not staying there and running back into the fuel tank. I thought it might have a leak somewhere along the line, but I've found no fuel on the ground or anywhere under the body of the vehicle, and not even the smell of raw fuel around the car, so it must be internal, correct? Well, I thought it could be the fuel pressure regulator, so I changed it.... not the problem. Thought it could be the fuel pump, so I changed it... not the problem. Thought it could be a leaky fuel injector, so changed them out with other used ones... not the problem (yeah, I know what you guys are going to say,"You should have used NEW injectors!!", but I didn't have the cash to do it right then. I didn't have the proper tools on hand to test the fuel pressure drop like I normally would nor did I have the time, as this was our only running vehicle that took us both to work, so I went with the least expensive & most likely issues first, then moved on from there. I figured that she needed a refreshed fuel system anyways with 180,000+ miles on her, so I thought the money was well spent to prevent any future breakdowns on the road. I have had MANY issues going on in my life and the last thing I needed was this car to give me problems!!! Ever been there?? Yeah, I think we all have at one time or another...

Now it's like I have a weird form of "anti-theft device" on my car. Even if someone steals my keys, they won't be able to start the darn thing! LOL!!

There is one thing that just came to mind, but I don't know if it's a possibility or not? My main computer/ECM took a crap on me a few years back (in the Home Depot parking lot as I went to leave), so I changed out the ECM for a junkyard ECM and had it reprogrammed by an Acura tech who asked his boss if he could borrow their handheld computer after he was done on a Saturday and bring it back on Monday. The boss was cool about it, so he came over to my house Saturday after work and within 3-5 minutes had it up and running along with most of my keys reprogrammed (I stupidly forgot to give him the "VALET" key, so that needs reprogramming still). The Acura dealership locally wanted $300+ to do this 5 minute job saying it would take 2.3 hours by "the book", so that is really 3 hours @ the then $129/hr (now $169/hr!!) BLAH! BLAH! BLAH!... what bs these guys do to honest, hard-working people!! Anyways, the car started up instantly and ran fine. Now I don't know if there needs to be some kind of reprogramming or what, but I was thinking that the charcoal canister might have something to do with it. Also, isn't there some kind of check valve on the fuel pump that prevents the fuel from draining after the vehicle has been shut off? I also don't think it is a fuel injector leaking because if it was, wouldn't there be some fuel dilution into the oil?? Oil seems fine? Really weird!!

Besides all of this, I have the "well known/documented" transmission shift issue!! The car will not shift into third gear but instead jumps into neutral, so when it happens, I'll slap the shifter to the left into "manual mode", left of the gas for a few seconds, the transmission catches 2nd gear, then I give it the gas pretty aggressively until I hit about 4k-5k rpms, then slap the shifter back over to the right into "automatic mode", let of the gas and then slowly give it some gas and it engages into gear just fine, usually,,,, , When this problem starts to happen, I usually just clean out the 3 solenoid tube screens on top of the transmission (which usually aren't that dirty) and the one on the front of the transmission with that weird gasket that has a round wire mesh screen molded into it... that mesh is usually all clogged up! I also change the cylindrical transmission filter on the top of the transmission for good measure. Then, the transmission shifts pretty darn good afterwards. I keep thinking of putting a clear, inline filter on the top of the transmission where the factory "cooler" is located... has anybody done just that and how did it work out for you? What part/filter did you use? Brand/part number? Was also thinking of installing an external transmission cooler in front of the radiator. Anyone do this? Results?

What is the shift solenoid that controls the 2nd to 3rd upshift? Where is it located? What is the solenoid that controls the 4th to 3rd downshift, because it sometimes has a hard time doing it so I have to do it manually??

Oh, and before everyone says it, I know about the 2006-2007 Honda Accord v6 transmission swap, just cannot find a good donor and the old girl has about 180k on the clock, so I don't know if that route would be a wise investment for me unless I can do it very inexpensively and quickly, as it is my daily driver.

I just love this car... the way it rides... the decent gas mileage it gets for such a big, heavy vehicle... it's looks (pearl white with the gold emblems/tan leather/sunroof)...I rarely breaks down on me (only the ECM, that's one breakdown in like 10+ years!!)... it's usually fairly easy to work on (except those darn HID light ballasts... and it wasn't even them, it was a bad HID bulb!! LOL!!)... It even has damage in the driver's side rear quarter panel due to some idiot driver from New Jersey, but I still have a soft spot for this old girl. She's kinda like most men's wives... getting older, not as attractive as she used to be 20 years ago but still really decent, always a comfortable ride (LOL!!), rarely gives you any trouble that can't be fixed with a little work, and you are soo used to her that you couldn't bear to let her go without a fight. Get where I'm coming from guys? So if you could please help a fellow Acura lover fix these issues, I would greatly appreciate it... and so would "she".

Thanks for taking the time to read this and for any helpful advice in advance...

 

Since the car is 20 years old 'with 180,000+ miles on her,' I was going to suggest changing the main relay assembly (39400-S84-003); however, you state that you do hear the fuel pump priming?

If you decide to reload the parts cannon, search car-part.com for a salvage yard near you and pick one of those relay's up for cheap.

Check the model 'fitments' on the Acura & Honda links below:

1999-2003 Acura Relay Assembly, Main (Mitsuba) 39400-S84-003 | Acura OEM Parts

1998-2004 Honda Relay Assembly, Main (Mitsuba) 39400-S84-003 | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts

Otherwise,

 

i
Since it's my first post, I haven't figured out how to EDIT my posts, if even possible?

I was going to add that I already changed out the main relay under the driver's side dashboard (like 2 or 3 times with different brands, just to make sure) with zero effect. I even re-flowed the solder on the old relay... and still no change! i told you this is really strange. Funny, but this kind of thing only happens to me it seems. I have worked on hundreds of cars and have NEVER encountered something like this before!

"It's like a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma!"

I was wondering... could it be an injector's o-ring seal that is leaking? I would think that if it was, then (like the finger over the end of a straw with liquid inside) air would get in and cause the fuel to flow back to the tank... that is IF there wasn't some kind of check valve in the fuel pump preventing backflow, which there is, correct?

Also, if I shut off the car it will start back up IMMEDIATELY with a normal crank if I do it within a few seconds, but if I go into a gas station to grab something or run back in the house and return, no deal! So whatever leak it is, most likely, is pretty severe. I just finally got soo annoyed with all of this switch flipping the other day, that I decided to once and for all fix the damn thing right... so here I am. Besides, I don't feel like replacing an ignition switch any time soon because of unnecessary over use!

Thanks for the reply, Zeta.

 

you can only edit your post in between a 15 minute window

 

Did you ever get around to testing this properly?

 

Have not had the time and still using it as my daily driver.

Why do you think I'm on here asking for help?? I've exhausted all normal theories/analysis I've been taught. Even if
I did have a chance to slap a fuel pressure gauge onto the schraeder valve, what is it going to tell me that I don't already know right now? That my fuel pressure is dropping like a sack of potatoes??

If you read my post and you are here to give a guy a helping hand, then in your opinion, what do you think is the problem(s)?

Do you have any helpful input on how I might fix this or do you simply want to know IF I fixed it so that you can do the same to yours because it has a similar problem?

 

Slightly pinch off the return line after the FPR and prime the fuel pump while watching the gauge. If fuel pressure still tanks immediately after the pump primes, then you have a leak in the engine bay or injector. If it doesn't, then you have a problem with the FPR. You're just throwing parts at it without diagnosing the actual problem, which can be frustrating and expensive.

 

I can understand your frustration with this problem. Please keep in mind that most everybody is trying to be helpful on these forums. Responding in a salty manner is not going to help anybody. I inquired days after your initial post, in which, you could have gleaned more information about the pressure drop. Good Luck with your issues.

 

Thanks for the idea, Karanx7, sincerely!
I understand that it seems like I'm throwing parts at it, but like I said, I do not have my tools with me... so it's a little more difficult to diagnose without them.

At least YOU gave me an idea how to eliminate one problem or the other, not just ask me "IF I had checked it out properly". If I had checked it out properly, most likely it would be fixed by now or at least on its way to being fixed... until I could come up with the money for the parts and/or the parts themselves.

Well, let's hope it's NOT the fuel injectors, right! LOL!! A fuel pressure regulator wouldn't be that hard on the wallet or too much time/effort to replace.

Now, any ideas about the last parts of my post, the transmission? Front mounted cooler idea? External clear filter idea? And which solenoids control 1.) the 2nd to 3rd upshift and 2.) the 4th to 3rd downshift?

Thanks again for the helpful advice... you guys are really good about helping your fellow man.
.

 

Wow!! Another worthless response from you and STILL zero helpful ideas that might help fix my car's issues... which is why I'm here in the first place!!?

Okay, Davius... let's see why your "holier-than-thou" reply is NOT going to get the response you were expecting from me:

1.) I/we all understand that you understand my frustration with my car's problems because it's COMMON SENSE!! EVERYBODY should be able to figure that one out, big guy.
After all, THAT is exactly why I am posting on here in the first place, to hopefully get ACTUAL ADVICE/HELP with my car problems from some of the "decent" car guys on here.

2.) I also am "keeping in mind that MOST everybody is trying to be helpful on these forums". After all, if I thought they weren't, I wouldn't have bothered, right?
Funny that YOU said "most everybody" when YOU are the ONLY one not offering ANY helpful advice, just asking IF I had a chance to properly check it out.
Even IF I had, what would that tell you? It would most likely tell you that I had found the problem, so why would you need to know IF I found the problem or not???
Why not simply offer me your best advice, like Karanx7 and others have done?? (Thanks again, Karanx7 and everyone else, I REALLY do appreciate any of your help!!)
3.) I thought YOU were responding to my straight forward, honest post in a "salty manner" by asking me if I had properly checked it out yet and NOT offering me one iota of good advice.
Proper etiquette dictates that when one person asks a question (or in this case, multiple questions), the proper online (OR off-line!) response is NOT answering that person's question with ANOTHER question!!
"You don't answer a question with another question"... ever hear someone say this to someone else?? Like maybe your parents?!
If you know of a good answer/solution to a post on here or anywhere else, you politely give it to them, if not, then simply STFU and DON'T ANSWER THE POST!!

4.) And to top it all off... you try to make ME look like a jerk by saying that you "inquired DAYS after my initial post, in which, I could have gleaned more information about the pressure drop".
Just curious, EXACTLY how many of these "DAYS" after my initial post did you inquire? Well??

I posted at 7:55pm on 8/31/21 and YOU replied to it the very next day on 9/1/21 at 8:51pm!!
It was 4 minutes shy of 25 hours, which the last time I checked was NOT "DAYS"!!
Your mama & daddy should spank you for lying to people!!!
So get your facts straight before you make up a bunch of crap trying to make ME look bad here, on my FIRST post no less!!

5.) Then you say,"Good luck with MY issues"??
Wow!! That's pretty pathetic coming from the guy who TWICE offered me ZERO helpful information regarding MY issues AND who is lying about how long it was before he replied to my post to try and make himself
look better than he actually is!!
For your information, not even 25 hours later is NOT "DAYS after my initial post"... it's BARELY over 24 hours/one day later!!

On top of that, 8 of those hours we all spent SLEEPING and 8 more hours WORKING at our jobs, NOT working on our cars!
So really, you gave me less than 9 hours to "properly check it out"....
Wait a minute!! This doesn't even include getting ready for work in the morning (ie. pooping, showering, shaving, cooking/eating breakfast, walking my dogs, etc...), driving to work, getting gas at the gas
station, driving home from work in rush hour traffic, cooking/eating dinner, feeding/walking my dogs, watching some tv to relax, banging my hot girlfriend, or anything else!!
You are some piece of work! Me: You:

So, the next time you even think about rep"lying" to an unsuspecting "victim", just say ""!!

Nobody here needs someone like you "helping" them the way you've "attempted" to "help" me!!

I'm assuming that by "Good luck with your issues", you actually meant "I WAS going to help you, but don't even ask me NOW... or ever again... unless you bow down & apologize to me". NOT gonna happen!!!
So you need not reply to this post, otherwise you will only make yourself look even worse. You'll just say "that you didn't mean it like that", or maybe "that I'm taking it to heart more than I should", or just try to insult me in other ways that will only get you into more hot water.
Just take your verbal beating like a man and walk away with your tail between your legs.

"If you can't hang with the big dogs, get off the porch!"


*To all of the other members out there, I apologize for even having to write this harsh but well deserved response to Davius, but his attitude needed adjusting... so I obliged him.

 

TigerStripeEyes, I figured I would respond here, and will follow up on why you are not getting reasonable replies...

First off, just because you put a fuel pump in does not mean the pressure problem is fixed. You could have a leaking fuel filter, and it was noted by others on here that even Honda genuine fuel filters have been known to be "bad" right out of the box, as someone else ran into a "bad batch" of them. The filter is integrated into the housing the pump bolts into, thus if you have a crack/leak/obstruction you have no way of knowing.

I would suggest buying a new fuel filter and swapping the new pump into the new filter and seeing if that fixes the "hard start" issues. It is a $50 part so it is money well spent at 180k+ miles. Ultimately, a fuel pressure gauge will tell you if you have adequate pressure (as you know) and if you have bleed down problems.

In response to your question of the injector o-ring or something similar, think about it. If you suspect an air leak, then that means you would also have a fuel leak. So one proves out the other as not possible, since you have not mentioned a fuel smell being present in the engine compartment. Fuel pressure is at 40+psi and will prove out against a vacuum leak.

If the car starts and runs I am pretty certain you can eliminate the whole "ECM being out of a junkyard" issue. Unless you get a code or some other indicator that the computer is unhappy with something, and if you can do the three-times off and prime and it starts just fine, that would mean it is more than likely a fuel issue, not electrical. Again, a fuel pressure gauge would be able to tell you.

Now what all of this does NOT tell you is if you have a serious grounding issue. It could simply be that the various grounds (and this model of Acura has a LOT of them) are not proper. Go through the service manual in regards to ground points and double check them ALL, and possibly even unbolt, clean the contact points down to bare metal, and reinstall to make sure proper grounding is being done everywhere. A floating ground issue would act exactly like you mentioned. If a ground strap is missing, ADD ONE to replace it. If the heavy gauge wiring is all corroded, REPLACE IT. When problems like this rear their head, electrically the ground points are one of most overlooked items. And no, a continuity tester will NOT tell you if the grounding potential is different between points. Even resistance readings cannot be used since you have no idea what kind of impedance/loads are being utilized by the ECM to take readings and actuate things.

In regards to the 3rd shift problem. With this one (I had the same issue) you can try by unbolting all the external solenoids, cleaning the screens and reinstalling them. You can also replace the external filter at the same time. If, after doing all of that, it still will not engage 3rd (usually when cold, as once it warms up they sometimes seem to shift fine), then you need a rebuild or a AV6 swap. Sorry, I am in the same boat, and the third gear going out is the common problem. It is well documented and everyone eventually has this issue, as the 3rd gear does not get enough fluid to prevent overheating. It was one of the design changes that "fixed" the later transmissions.

Now, in regards to your "tone" and "attitude", sorry, but you are in the wrong. No one attacked you, and no one was condescending. They just asked if you followed "normal" and "regular" diagnostic procedure to ascertain the problem. Heck Davius even went so far as to point out the same. He may have come across as a little snarky, but you were quite rude to him first when all he asked was if you found out hard data that would allow others to help with diagnostics.

You are throwing parts at it instead of just going and buying a fuel pressure gauge. Granted, these cars have gotten so old that a lot of parts are cheap, yet when people take a "cheap attitude" towards it (ie, they won't buy decent tools, just the next cheap part to try) it is somehwat futile and disheartening to see since ultimately they will end up spending more than buying the tool and getting a real answer. THAT is why you don't have more replies, since you can "lead a horse to water, yet you can't make it drink". People asked the right questions, you can't give a proper reply and attack. That doesn't help anyone and ultimately doesn't entice anyone to care to reply.

I threw you a major bone here in answering your questions with solid technical advice and reasoning. If I get attacked by you for it, then you are just proving everything I just said. And in that case you should not be allowed to participate.

We have all had bad days/months/years. That does not mean it is OK to attack others out of our own frustration. Again, most everyone here has tried to help.

 

Wow. Get over yourself a little bit dude. No one posted anything remotely offensive or disrespectful that justifies your rant or the tone of your reply .

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by DP01TL

TigerStripeEyes, I figured I would respond here, and will follow up on why you are not getting reasonable replies...

First off, just because you put a fuel pump in does not mean the pressure problem is fixed. You could have a leaking fuel filter, and it was noted by others on here that even Honda genuine fuel filters have been known to be "bad" right out of the box, as someone else ran into a "bad batch" of them. The filter is integrated into the housing the pump bolts into, thus if you have a crack/leak/obstruction you have no way of knowing.

I would suggest buying a new fuel filter and swapping the new pump into the new filter and seeing if that fixes the "hard start" issues. It is a $50 part so it is money well spent at 180k+ miles. Ultimately, a fuel pressure gauge will tell you if you have adequate pressure (as you know) and if you have bleed down problems.

In response to your question of the injector o-ring or something similar, think about it. If you suspect an air leak, then that means you would also have a fuel leak. So one proves out the other as not possible, since you have not mentioned a fuel smell being present in the engine compartment. Fuel pressure is at 40+psi and will prove out against a vacuum leak.

If the car starts and runs I am pretty certain you can eliminate the whole "ECM being out of a junkyard" issue. Unless you get a code or some other indicator that the computer is unhappy with something, and if you can do the three-times off and prime and it starts just fine, that would mean it is more than likely a fuel issue, not electrical. Again, a fuel pressure gauge would be able to tell you.

Now what all of this does NOT tell you is if you have a serious grounding issue. It could simply be that the various grounds (and this model of Acura has a LOT of them) are not proper. Go through the service manual in regards to ground points and double check them ALL, and possibly even unbolt, clean the contact points down to bare metal, and reinstall to make sure proper grounding is being done everywhere. A floating ground issue would act exactly like you mentioned. If a ground strap is missing, ADD ONE to replace it. If the heavy gauge wiring is all corroded, REPLACE IT. When problems like this rear their head, electrically the ground points are one of most overlooked items. And no, a continuity tester will NOT tell you if the grounding potential is different between points. Even resistance readings cannot be used since you have no idea what kind of impedance/loads are being utilized by the ECM to take readings and actuate things.

In regards to the 3rd shift problem. With this one (I had the same issue) you can try by unbolting all the external solenoids, cleaning the screens and reinstalling them. You can also replace the external filter at the same time. If, after doing all of that, it still will not engage 3rd (usually when cold, as once it warms up they sometimes seem to shift fine), then you need a rebuild or a AV6 swap. Sorry, I am in the same boat, and the third gear going out is the common problem. It is well documented and everyone eventually has this issue, as the 3rd gear does not get enough fluid to prevent overheating. It was one of the design changes that "fixed" the later transmissions.

Now, in regards to your "tone" and "attitude", sorry, but you are in the wrong. No one attacked you, and no one was condescending. They just asked if you followed "normal" and "regular" diagnostic procedure to ascertain the problem. Heck Davius even went so far as to point out the same. He may have come across as a little snarky, but you were quite rude to him first when all he asked was if you found out hard data that would allow others to help with diagnostics.

You are throwing parts at it instead of just going and buying a fuel pressure gauge. Granted, these cars have gotten so old that a lot of parts are cheap, yet when people take a "cheap attitude" towards it (ie, they won't buy decent tools, just the next cheap part to try) it is somehwat futile and disheartening to see since ultimately they will end up spending more than buying the tool and getting a real answer. THAT is why you don't have more replies, since you can "lead a horse to water, yet you can't make it drink". People asked the right questions, you can't give a proper reply and attack. That doesn't help anyone and ultimately doesn't entice anyone to care to reply.

I threw you a major bone here in answering your questions with solid technical advice and reasoning. If I get attacked by you for it, then you are just proving everything I just said. And in that case you should not be allowed to participate.

We have all had bad days/months/years. That does not mean it is OK to attack others out of our own frustration. Again, most everyone here has tried to help.

Okay, let me take this one by one...

First off, DP01TL, that was the typical reply with "solid technical advice" that I was looking for!!
Thank you soo much for taking the time out of your day to respond to me, I really do appreciate it.
Your type of reply (plus zeta & Karanx7) actually HELPS people by giving them multiple specific paths to investigate and it answered most of my questions one by one.
So please don't get me wrong... I appreciate EVERYONE on this site who actually makes a valid effort to ACTUALLY help each other.

Now, in reference to my car...

Now, when I "replaced the fuel pump" I actually replaced the entire fuel pump assembly, so the new assembly "should" hopefully have had a fully operative built-in filter/anti-drain back valve, but it is absolutely possible that it has a defect/crack/leak like you said. I have not had the opportunity to read the articles about that on here, but I'll take your word for it because you have been on here MUCH longer than I have and know the site/posts way better than I do (ie. you probably help a lot of people,... thanks for doing that for guys like me... seriously.). Where can I get this $50 part? Online or at a local parts store? Do you have a part number by chance??

Now, onto the potential leaky fuel injectors... I'm going to try Karanx7's idea when I either find the relative who apparently stole the fuel pressure gauge my late father gave me (along with a crap load of his/my other tools!) or most likely just bite the bullet and buy a new one. What is a good quality brand you guys might recommend?

Just so you know, I am NOT taking the "cheap way out", I just had no other options at that specific time and figured that one of those parts was the usual culprit (most times they are) and if not, then at least I would have new fuel system parts instead of 180,000 mile old parts that were probably about to go out anyways within another 10k-20k more miles.
I absolutely do not mind buying another fuel pressure gauge, so no need to insinuate that I'm being cheap... you are hilarious! LOL!! I believe "overkill" is better than not having what you need when you need it, but in this situation... well, things were a lot different and I would rather not discuss my personal family business regarding what happened. Just know that it was NOT good!!

I have NEVER been stuck on the road due to fuel parts... knock on wood!! I usually have an extra fuel pump in the trunk of every vehicle "just in case" it goes out on the road somewhere. I just buy a new one with a lifetime warranty, install it and keep the old, still working pump in the trunk. Same with alternators, starters, ignition coils, plugs, drive belts, fuses, relays, switches, those plastic plugs/stops that go on the clutch &/or brake pedals, etc... .. Pretty much anything that can go out and leave you stranded I have a spare in the trunk. Many small parts like relays & fuses I get from junkyards to keep the price down, but sometimes I'll grab starters & alternators if they literally look brand new with stickers and everything. I even have a full size spare tire on a factory matching 16" aluminum rim, so when I change it, I don't have to change it again after I get the old tire repaired or replaced. The ONLY time I've broken down & had to be towed was due to electrical parts, like my '01 Acura 3.2tl's ECM, my '91 Honda CRX Si's distributor's ignition module (shorted out instantly)... oh, and it's timing belt went out at 5-10 mph without ANY damage, THANK GOD!! So instead of dragging around 100lbs. of subwoofers/box & amp, I drag around 30lbs. of tools and about 20lbs. of vital parts that keep me from being stranded while saving on a huge towing bill. Call me crazy, but it has ALWAYS worked for me.

I've basically eliminated the ECM as being the culprit. The car didn't run before I installed & reprogrammed this used ECM, and now it does, every day... so it seems like it's doing it's job.

My dashboard is always lit up like a Christmas tree most days, because of the TCS & Check Engine lights that are always on due to the transmission issue.
The SRS & ABS lights are on as well for whatever reasons and the passenger-side airbag light comes on if I have something (not a full grown person) sitting on the front passenger seat.
Don't forget the Maint. Req.'d light when I forget to reset it.
Oh, and the seat belt light!! LOL!!
Or if I turn on the bright lights?!! LOL!!!
It's almost blinding with all of those lights on...j/k
Once I clean out the solenoid screens on the transmission, the TCS & Check Engine lights should go off, at least for a while.
The ABS light is probably a dirty sensor (caked-on brake dust?) because a good cleaning of the brakes last change cleared it right up.
The SRS light is probably due to the driver's airbag recall, so when I take it to Acura to do the recall service, it should go off... hopefully? (COVID delayed getting the part here.)

Now your idea about having a grounding issue is very interesting! Remember a few years back when the rage was buying one of those "high-performance grounding kits" in whatever color your heart desired to match your motor/paint scheme? Well, I always thought it was a lot of hype if you already had your stock grounds in clean working condition (ie. not all corroded or loose), but it makes perfect sense to use higher quality, thicker wire and a freshly clean mounting/contact surface. Do you have a schematic/diagram of all of the grounding points that you could post here, not just for me, but for others in the future who may need it as well? That is, unless it is already posted somewhere else, then could you provide the appropriate link to it? (Thanks, again!)

Grounding issues are a potential here, but I'm still leaning towards either the fuel pump/filter assembly, FPR, or maybe even a leaking injector (probably not though) not operating correctly. But honestly, when I replace a ground wire, even battery cables, I usually upgrade the wires to as large of a gauge as possible to ensure REALLY good ground/current flow. I think the grounds & battery cables on my '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L, which were like '4' gauge stock or even the smaller '8' gauge, are now '0' gauge?!! And it seems to run REALLY well...LOL!!
Reminds you of Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor, right? "Argh! Argh! Argh!"

Sorry to hear that you had/have the same issue with the 3rd gear in the transmission.
(Acura supposedly, before I owned it, installed this "lubricating jet kit" for the 3rd gear on mine at 40k miles and said it was good... ie. no replacement needed)
I didn't have an issue until I had a guy (whom I had dealt with on many occasions) do a power steering & transmission flush (with a passive machine) and he mistakenly thought that the lines going into the radiator were for the transmission cooler and used my expensive, Honda-spec Amsoil transmission fluid to actually flush out my power steering!!
I wasn't present when he hooked up to those lines because he had asked me if I could take his work van for a spin around the block with one of his workers to see if I knew what was wrong with it while he got everything ready (it was running on 6 out of 8 cylinders!! Needed a simple tune-up). Again, my gut said,"Don't do it now, wait until AFTER my car was done".. but I stupidly didn't listen. So when I got back to my car, everything was already hooked up. Unfortunately, I trusted that he knew what he was doing, after all, he owned the company, right?? WRONG!!
After my transmission fluid went into my power steering system, my car's power steering pump started "groaning". I then looked at where he had hooked up to and discovered his error. I had them immediately shut the car off and then flush the power steering system out 2 times with his fluid and once more with high-end Amsoil synthetic fluid and it stopped the groaning... it did, however, take the power steering about 6 months of driving to get back to 100% normal operation (ie. no occasional "groans" when making a turn, maybe just had air in the lines that eventually purged out by itself?).
Then, I said that he needed to reimburse me for my transmission fluid, which was like $200+ and he about flipped out! He said that HIS transmission fluid was just as good and was the same Honda specification. My gut said,"DON'T DO IT!!! Make him pay for your fluid, then order more and have him do it the right way this time with ZERO interruptions!"... but I stupidly didn't listen to my gut instincts, again, (which unfortunately for me are usually correct) and allowed him to put his fluid into my transmission. (It didn't even show specs on its bottle OR literature saying the Honda spec, just that it worked in "most Honda/Acura vehicles"!!)
Stupid me!! Within 8 days, my transmission went from shifting butter smooth to a few days later lurching once, then seconds later dropping into what felt like 1st or 2nd gear while we were driving at about 50+mph in probably 4th gear! It felt like the brakes locked up because the tires screeched as we almost face-planted into the windshield... lucky we were actually wearing our seatbelts! I immediately called him and told him that I wanted him to drive to the local auto parts store near me and flush it out "on-site" with the correct Honda spec fluid! He tried to get out of it, but he soon realized that I was NOT going to just "let it go". So I ordered the fluid, he reimbursed me for it, and he did the flush, correctly this time.
It took at least 8-9 months for the transmission to get back to relatively normal shifting, but it has never been the same as it was before all of this.

I would love to drive/ride in a TL like ours that has the AV6 installed so that I can really make a good decision whether to spend the time/money/energy to do the swap or just buy another car when this transmission dies.
...
...
...

Now, in regards to my "tone" and "attitude" I will ask you to PLEASE carefully re-read/interpret correctly what was written.

(Oh, and all of my replies (including your post, DP01TL) have been reasonable replies, with one exception, Davius.
Everyone else has been EXTREMELY helpful, so I don't know why you say that I'm "not getting reasonable replies"??)

I made a polite & very informative post asking for help with my Acura's specific issues.
I was NOT mean, bitter, rude, insulting or said anything that might seem improper in my post.
I even gave you guys a compliment right off the bat and stated that I always obtained good information when reading this website.
I also said,
"..... So if you could please help a fellow Acura lover fix these issues, I would greatly appreciate it... and so would "she".

Thanks for taking the time to read this and for any helpful advice in advance..."

Now does anything I wrote seem inappropriate so far?? No.

I posted this FIRST post at 7:55pm on Tuesday 8/31/21.
Then, 31 minutes later at 8:26pm, zeta responded to me with a very helpful suggestion to change the main relay and even gave me the part number! Nice guy!! (Thanks again, zeta!)
On 9/1/21 Wednesday morning at 6:09am I read & responded to zeta and said that I did not know how to edit my post here yet but informed him that I already replaced the main relay and even re-soldered the old one just to make sure, but it didn't correct the issue. I even joked around light-heartedly by using a Winston Churchill quote about how I felt about it... "It's like a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma!".
Then I sincerely thanked zeta for his reply.

(Now, so far, does this sound like I'm in a seriously bad mood or frustrated beyond belief & cannot control my feelings because of my car's issues? Absolutely not. It's STILL my reliable daily driver.
These are the type of replies I was looking for... people to come up with possibilities that they might have already incurred themselves. I was happy to get the reply... ANY reply that might help.)

Then, at 11:48am on the same day 9/1/21, justnspace replies to me and says,

"you can only edit your post in between a 15 minute window"... (which was good info to know)


Now HERE is where the issue starts...

Later that same day, 9/1/21 at 8:51pm, Davius replies with:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerStripeEyes View Post
I didn't have the proper tools on hand to test the fuel pressure drop like I normally would nor did I have the time, as this was our only running vehicle that took us both to work, so I went with the least expensive & most likely issues first, then moved on from there.
"Did you ever get around to testing this properly?"

I just posted barely 24 hours before this, so does ANYBODY reasonably think I actually had the time to "get around" to this THAT fast AND at night time in the middle of the work week??
(Just to let you know, I DO NOT have an enclosed garage to work in & I live on a barely-moving canal in south Florida where the mosquitoes will make your life miserable, starting right before the sun starts to go down!)

Also, what is Davius' so-called definition of "testing this properly"?? Did he explain anything specific, like Karanx7 did? No.
I said that I didn't have the proper tools on-hand & then he comes back with this reply asking if I tested it "properly", barely one day after my original post. THAT seemed a little "snarky" (as you put it) to me.
He used my exact word ("proper") from when I said that "I did not have the proper tools on hand to test the fuel pressure drop...". That is usually a sign that someone is "talking down" to you. In person, when someone does this, they use YOUR word(s) and emphasize THOSE words in a sarcastic, smart-ass way. You know how some people do, like they're putting "finger quotes" around your specific word(s). Anyways, that's the sense I had after reading it.

He could have given me good advice like you just did, DP01TL, or like zeta & Karanx7.... but he didn't. Why not??
Does he not understand that I didn't have my tools available just 24 hours before and probably still might not, so maybe he should throw out some advice to me like a few typical reasons/possibilities why my fuel is apparently draining back into the tank?? You and other people were doing just that (which is the norm) and you guys didn't have ANY more info than he had....what I initially typed in my first post, and maybe the update to it about already replacing & even soldering the main relay under the dash.

(Now you say that I was rude to him in my first response to his first reply, but I fail to see exactly where??? But I'm getting to that now...)

Then at 2:26pm on 9/2/21, I reply to Darius' single sentence with this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davius View Post
Did you ever get around to testing this properly?

Have not had the time and still using it as my daily driver. { I repeated here that I had not had time, as I had already said in my post, if he even read it?? I kept thinking that it had barely been 24 hours?!}

Why do you think I'm on here asking for help?? {The whole reason for my initial post was to hopefully get some ideas/theories on what might be the problem(s), so this is blatantly obvious.}

I've exhausted all normal theories/analysis I've been taught. {I talked with the local Acura mechanics in person, called Acura's corporate office for schematics or diagrams (no help whatsoever from those
people!), talked to all of my associates that work on cars (ie. mechanics), read EVERYTHING I could find online about it, and still... NOTHING.
This is why I "threw parts at it", but I figured they needed changing anyways after 180,000 miles, so a little money well spent in my humble
opinion. My car... my money... my choice to do as I please, just like ALL of you. So please don't criticize. You are NOT in my specific situation.
You have ZERO clue about what's going on in my life right now, so please "Judge not, lest ye be judged". }

Even if I did have a chance to slap a fuel pressure gauge onto the schraeder valve, what is it going to tell me that I don't already know right now? That my fuel pressure is dropping like a sack of potatoes??
{ I already knew I was losing fuel pressure, as I again stated in my post. What I needed to know was "WHY?", not "IF?" I was losing fuel pressure.
Was it "rude" to use the term "like a sack of potatoes" instead of just saying "rapidly"? I don't think so.}

If you read my post and you are here to give a guy a helping hand, then in your opinion, what do you think is the problem(s)?
{ I politely ask for his help/opinion on what my problem(s) could be, that is, IF he was actually here to help a guy out (because he sounded kind of
"snarky", as you say)... I was pretty straight forward here, NOT rude.}

Do you have any helpful input on how I might fix this or do you simply want to know IF I fixed it so that you can do the same to yours because it has a similar problem?
{I thought maybe he was asking because he was also in the same situation & wanted to know if I figured out what the problem was so that he could
fix HIS car the same way as well, which is reasonable to assume he might be and a VERY logical probability}

No disrespect intended, but exactly where was I "in the wrong" here, DP01TL??? Are you referring to this part?:
"...Why do you think I'm on here asking for help?? I've exhausted all normal theories/analysis I've been taught. Even if
I did have a chance to slap a fuel pressure gauge onto the schraeder valve, what is it going to tell me that I don't already know right now? That my fuel pressure is dropping like a sack of potatoes??"

Well, just ask yourself a few questions...

Was Davius giving me ANY kind of ACTUAL help by asking me "if I had ever got around to testing this properly" just 24 hours later? No, he was not.
I came here for solid, technical advice, like you and the other guys gave me, not poorly timed questions like this by someone who is not paying full attention to the situation (like WHEN I actually posted initially).
I had exhausted all of my normal theories/analysis that I had been taught, so???? It's the truth... I couldn't logically find another means to figure this out. I was temporarily stumped.
IF I actually had my old fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel line & allowed the fuel pump to prime the system OR shut the engine off while watching it & the fuel pressure rapidly dropped to zero on the gauge, would that LITERALLY tell me something that I didn't know already... that my fuel pressure was dropping VERY quickly? No, it would not.
I stated that I was rapidly losing fuel pressure after I shut the car off in my initial post, so just how many times do I need to post the same thing for "Captain Obvious", or should I say "Captain Davius", to actually read and/or understand it? (You got to admit that was pretty funny! LOL!!... and it fit perfectly!!)
I was losing fuel pressure & needed some info on "WHAT" could CAUSE that, NOT a fuel pressure gauge reading telling me what I already knew... that I'm losing fuel pressure. What good does that do me? What kind of "help" is that? By checking the fuel pressure & seeing that it drops significantly, does THAT actually help me diagnose WHY it's losing fuel pressure?? No, just that it IS losing fuel pressure... which I already knew, hence my initial post.

On the other hand, what Karanx7 posted actually made sense & was solid, technical advice (like yours, DP01TL, & zeta) to actually HELP me find the issue/solve the problem: (Thanks again, Karanx7!!)
09-02-2021 06:49 PM
Karanx7
Slightly pinch off the return line after the FPR and prime the fuel pump while watching the gauge. If fuel pressure still tanks immediately after the pump primes, then you have a leak in the engine bay or injector. If it doesn't, then you have a problem with the FPR. You're just throwing parts at it without diagnosing the actual problem, which can be frustrating and expensive.

THIS is the kind of technical help people look for when posting a problem here, am I right?


Now I understood at the time of his first reply that "maybe" Davius didn't even bother looking at WHEN I posted my initial post just a day earlier, in the middle of the work week, on a Tuesday night.
It happens, we ALL do it every once in a while... we are ALL human & make mistakes, no big deal.
So I replied to him in a gentler yet straightforward way, just in case that was so.
I had been a polite, sincere, nice guy the whole time up until Davius' NEXT reply:
09-02-2021 09:07 PM
Davius
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerStripeEyes View Post
Have not had the time and still using it as my daily driver.

Why do you think I'm on here asking for help?? I've exhausted all normal theories/analysis I've been taught. Even if
I did have a chance to slap a fuel pressure gauge onto the schraeder valve, what is it going to tell me that I don't already know right now? That my fuel pressure is dropping like a sack of potatoes??

If you read my post and you are here to give a guy a helping hand, then in your opinion, what do you think is the problem(s)?

Do you have any helpful input on how I might fix this or do you simply want to know IF I fixed it so that you can do the same to yours because it has a similar problem?

I can understand your frustration with this problem. Please keep in mind that most everybody is trying to be helpful on these forums. Responding in a salty manner is not going to help anybody. I inquired days after your initial post, in which, you could have gleaned more information about the pressure drop. Good Luck with your issues.

Okay, let's ALL break this down line by line...

Notice that the LAST thing I asked him, AGAIN, was if he had any helpful input on how I might fix my issues. Was that being rude? Definitely not. Did he ever answer that question?? No.

I was NOT "frustrated with this problem"... I was frustrated with his lack of help/advice & his "snarky" question... just a day after my initial post, but I still responded rather politely, just a little more "to the point"... did he have any REAL advice that might help me or not? I see nothing rude about my reply... it was very clearly written, straightforward, & understandable. Why couldn't he answer whether he had any ideas/solutions that might help?? Very strange???
If he could "understand my frustration with this problem" then why not offer some good advice on how I might fix it (like normal people on here do) in order to "relieve" some of my so-called frustration??
Noooo, he just says for me to "keep in mind that most everybody is trying to be helpful on these forums".
If so, then why doesn't he say something actually "helpful" to my situation??

I explained in FULL detail what my problems were in my initial post, did I not? We all know I did.
So why not try to help me by giving me good, solid technical advice like others were doing??
Am I missing something here guys???

Then, he said that I was "responding in a salty manner" and that "is not going to help anybody".... SERIOUSLY??
Had Davius "helped" me with anything in his posts up to that point?? No, he had NOT!

But what REALLY made me reply the way I did was when he flat out LIED saying, and I quote:

"I inquired days after your initial post, in which, you could have gleaned more information about the pressure drop. Good Luck with your issues."

Now before this sentence, I would have just sent him back a normal reply and said that I was not replying in a "salty manner" and that I'm sorry if he took it that way but I was actually trying to say that...etc.....
But after he flat out LIED and said that he had "inquired 'DAYS' after my initial post, in which, I could have gleaned more information about the pressure drop" when it was only the next evening barely 24 hours later... THAT is what riled me up!!
So, IF I had "gleaned more information about the pressure drop", why would he want to know???
I am the one who was INITIALLY asking for the help, NOT him, right?
So how would that have helped him help me??
He was supposedly chiming in to help me, right?
If I had "gleaned more info", I would have probably discovered the problem already,... so why ask if I had "properly checked it out"???
Why not offer solid, technical advice to me with what information I had given already?? Everyone else had done so thus far....

Think about this carefully....
Did Davius STILL not look back at the date of my first post when he wrote THIS second "snarky" text? Apparently not.
Davius apparently didn't even look at the date of my FIRST post when he replied to it the first time, as evident above. We can ALL agree on these two points, right?

Therefore...
If he actually DID look at the date of my initial post (before either of his posts), then he is INTENTIONALLY LYING to try and make me look like the bad guy here.
But if he DIDN"T look at the date/time of my initial post (again, before either of his posts), he is simply a fool & probably shouldn't be replying to people here with "snarky" remarks in the "salty manner" in which he did.
I was nice, polite, and grateful on EVERY POST from the beginning UNTIL he pulled this crap and LIED!!!

So please don't put the blame on me, guys. I appreciate ANY and ALL help from this forum (or ANY other) and have always been respectful and decent to people, but when people LIE and try to make ME look bad for THEIR mistakes/ineptitude... well, that pisses me the hell off!

Better options Davius could have taken:

1.) Davius could have held his tongue if he "thought" that I was replying in a "salty manner" and simply replied with some good advice that would possibly have helped me figure this out OR

2.) Davius could have NOT replied to this post at all, right?
(Remember, HE said that he supposedly "understood my frustration with this problem", so no "snarky" remarks/accusations were justly warranted from him, correct?)

3.) Davius could have chosen not to LIE about the time between when I initially posted & when he first replied to it, but he LIED anyways to try to make me look bad & make him look like "the nice guy who was
being talked to 'in a salty manner' by some new guy for no apparent reason, so he was leaving the conversation & no longer helping me", hence his "Good Luck with your issues" comment.
(He had NOT helped me AT ALL... still hasn't, only made my life more difficult by forcing me to defend myself here, which I would rather not have had to do.)

4.) Davius could have apologized for LYING about how long he "waited to reply to me", supposed "days" according to him but actually less than 25 hours, but he didn't apologize then OR since my verbal tongue-lashing.
Who does he think he is anyways?? Acting like HE "gave me days" before he replied so that I had plenty of time to "properly test it" in order for him to "properly" help me!
How "generous" of him to do so for me... like I owe him something now??

You see what LYING does... it causes a LOT more problems for everyone!

Davius might even be a nice guy, normally? Maybe HE was having the so-called "bad day" here, because I was all smiles & jokes... until he came along with his "snarky" attitude.
Maybe you have known him for years on here & that's great, but a LIAR is a LIAR, whether friend or foe.
I am a full grown man who WILL NOT TOLERATE IT when another man LIES about things like this, ESPECIALLY to make me look bad and himself look good.

It's VERY simple... he either LIED or he didn't... so which is it?
You have the PROOF right there on your screens, so please don't act like I should just let someone who hasn't given me one tiny bit of help (like others have so graciously done), just LIE about things and try to make me look bad. That is not right and it's not fair to me.
I am a polite & respectful guy, but when someone, ANYONE, tries to pull crap like this on me...well, my Italian/Norwegian/Greek/German/Irish/Scottish/Persian temper comes up from the depths....
(Can you tell that I recently received my Ancestry DNA test results? What a freaking combination, right? LOL!! See, I'm still in my normal, joking mood.)
Pretty much every nationality's blood, with THE worst tempers, flows through my veins, but normally I control it VERY well.
My family on my father's side fought & were heroes in the Revolutionary War, Civil War, and every war since... so I come from good, red-blooded American stock.

I understand that I may have been a little excessive in the tongue-lashing that I gave Davius, well, maybe a good amount more than I should have been (now that I re-read it), but I guarantee you that he, nor anyone else who reads it, will ever forget it. Maybe it will remind him (& others) not to LIE about things???
Now that 2nd response from me to Davius WAS done in an intentional "salty manner", but NOT my first response to him, that one was relatively polite, friendly, & to the point, "do you have any info that might help me"??

Davius "could have" just admitted that he didn't see when I first posted & apologized for not doing so. It would have been no big deal then, but apparently his pride got in the way & you know what they say...
"Pride cometh before a fall".

To conclude:

If Davius were to sincerely apologize to me on here for lying about things (whether it was intentional or not), which caused me to give him that long/harsh verbal thrashing, I'd accept it with no hard feelings.
We are ALL human and make stupid mistakes, but it takes a real man to sincerely apologize when he is wrong.
I admit that I might have excessively chewed him out for lying & trying to make me look bad, that I probably went a bit too far on my part, & I sincerely apologize for the severity of that tongue lashing.... just don't do things like that to people so that type of reaction cannot happen in the first place.

Now you will see just what kind of man Davius is deep down inside.
........
........
I would like to put this issue behind us and get on with the grease monkey conversations!! After all, that's why we're all here in the first place... it's a guy thing that most women just don't understand. The feeling of busting your knuckles & getting greasy fixing your own vehicle WITHOUT getting screwed over by the dealership/bad mechanics is priceless!!! So let's forgive each other and forget about previous mistakes so we can move on and get to the good stuff...second gen Acura 3.2tl's and their list of crazy issues!!

(Oh, that reminds me... I met a 19 year old kid at the gas station a while back who has a 2nd Gen Acura 3.2CL Type S. His driver's seat is broken soo badly that he puts a milkcrate behind it to keep it from laying completely flat on the back seat!?! He didn't pay much for the car and needs a lot of help getting it back to decent working order. I did notice that it has Comptech headers AND Comptech exhaust, which strangely is NOT loud INSIDE the vehicle or next to it, but only 30'+ behind it?? Any explanations for this weird phenomena? Maybe I will trade him work for swapping out the Comptech gear with factory exhaust manifolds and factory exhaust? He doesn't really enjoy the car as it is, but doesn't have a lot of money to fix it up, so maybe he will be open to trading for labor?? He said he didn't like the loud exhaust note that much anyways, so maybe it will work out well for both parties? All I really want are the headers, but maybe I can modify/lengthen the CL exhaust and install a resonator(s) in it to tame the sound down a little? Hopefully he hasn't wrecked it yet, or else one of you guys might already have his Comptech parts on YOUR Acura?! LOL!!).

9/11/2001 May we NEVER forget our lost fellow Americans.

 

I have both the CT-E six speed headers; B-pipe & axle back mufflers on both my S/C'ed CL-S6 and just the headers and B-pipe (sold the CT-E mufflers & S/C'er) on my automatic CL-S project car.
To say the least, if you can get your hands on them, for your car, when the issues you outlined above have been resolved, you won't regret the bump in power.
Good Luck!

 

Holy cow!!! You are one lucky guy to have had TWO Comptech supercharged CL-S's... and one a 6-speed!! (I'm drooling all over my keyboard just thinking about how that one must drive )

How much power do you estimate I would gain by adding the headers and exhaust?
My '01 TL is of course NOT a Type-S (which I already know sucks for me... LOL!!!) but still has 225hp stock.
My stock exhaust is literally dead quiet, so a little "gurgle" would be a welcome addition, IF it came with added power.

Did your fuel mileage increase?? (Of course, it didn't increase at first... because you were jumping on the throttle like a madman every chance you had, correct? But after you got used to the power and settled down. especially on long road trips, what benefit in mileage, if any, have you seen so far?)

Are the 6-speed Comptech headers different than the automatic Comptech headers?? His is an automatic like mine, so I need not worry, but I was just wondering so that others (who might not know either) could avoid making a mistake by buying the wrong version of the header for their vehicle, IF there is even a difference?
For example, someone online (or a buddy's friend) is selling some Acura 3.2 Comptech headers for a reasonable price and someone jumps at the deal... but if there IS a difference and they don't know it... well, they just might be stuck with some beautiful Comptech headers that DO NOT fit their vehicle AND are out hundreds of dollars UNTIL they can sell them again and start all over in the search for the RIGHT ones.

What kind of bump in horsepower did all of those mods together give you? A stock Type-S was like 255hp, correct?
Did you re-do your bottom end to all forged parts? I know that it was not necessary, but just curious IF you did or not and why.
How was traction with all of that added power? My traction with these stock rims & tires already sucks and breaks loose when I jump on it from take off, hence why Acura probably put the TCS setup on these?
Do 3.2L Acura's have an LSD or would a Quaife be an upgrade, IF they even made one for these cars due to our bad transmissions in the first place?
What about a lightweight flywheel on your 6-speed?? Do they make them and did you get one? If so, thoughts/opinions of it?

I was thinking about something lately... I always see a TON of 2nd Gen 3.2L Acura's (TL & CL) in the recycle/salvage yards that look like perfectly good cars (ie. no body or interior damage) with relatively low mileage and if ALL of these automatics have this certain problem and need the AV6 transmission to solve it, why doesn't someone or a group of guys get together with all of the major insurance companies and grab ALL of the wrecked/storm-damaged '06-'07 Accords with this AV6 transmission that is in operable condition (because it was in a rear-end or door-side on back collision, had an electrical fire in the interior, or a tree fell on the middle or back half of the car) and remove the transmissions to sell SPECIFICALLY to those Acura owners in need of them? There would be SOOO many less 3.2L Acura's in the junkyards and on the road still. These are wonderful riding/driving vehicles and get great gas mileage for such a big car. We should start a company doing this! After all, we already have a HUGE network of guys here around the U.S. (& Canada even!) already who know the local areas. All it would take is coordinating everything which would be difficult, but NOT impossible. We would need 3 to 6 storage locations for the transmissions around the U.S. evenly spaced out to save customers on shipping charges. Even if we didn't do the storage locations, maybe we could get the insurance companies to notify us online when an '06-'07 Accord with the AV6 becomes available to them and give us special pricing and even post it here? That way, depending on it's location in the U.S./Canada and the customer's need to have the transmission ASAP or not, we Acura owners who specifically need these transmissions to permanently fix our cars of this "factory defect" would have a MUCH easier chance of buying one of these. I am really sure that MANY prior owners of mint condition 3.2 automatic Acura's in the junkyards would have spent the money on an AV6 IF they could have found one that they could easily buy locally OR online for a reasonable price and with a limited guarantee to at least work properly (no mileage warranty). Just a wild/crazy thought...

Thanks again for the reply, zeta!!

 

If you're going to continue to post screed after ranting screed of off-topic nonsense attacking another member this thread will be locked.

You could have easily had your say, moved on days ago and completely defused this unnecessary argument you seem intent on continuing. An initial reply along the lines of, 'I disagree with your characterization and your timeline of 'days' instead of 'hours' and have not found your posts very helpful in solving the problem I have with my car.' would have been quite sufficient if you had simply moved on and got over it.

You crossed the line when you made (and now have continued to make) it a personal attack on single member.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearcat94

If you're going to continue to post screed after ranting screed of off-topic nonsense attacking another member this thread will be locked.

You could have easily had your say, moved on days ago and completely defused this unnecessary argument you seem intent on continuing. An initial reply along the lines of, 'I disagree with your characterization and your timeline of 'days' instead of 'hours' and have not found your posts very helpful in solving the problem I have with my car.' would have been quite sufficient if you had simply moved on and got over it.

You crossed the line when you made (and now have continued to make) it a personal attack on single member.

I (including zeta) already moved on after I got that off of my chest and we've been talking about his supercharged CL-S's and Comptech gear.

So, if you will please read the end of the last post regarding the situation, I apologized for it.... you might want to actually read someone's ENTIRE post BEFORE you try to tell me WHEN "I could have easily had my say and moved on days ago" OR BEFORE you try to tell me HOW to "initially reply" with just one succinct sentence YOU came up with after the fact (ie.'I disagree with your characterization and your timeline of 'days' instead of 'hours' and have not found your posts very helpful in solving the problem I have with my car'.

Well, you SHOULD have read what I literally wrote...

To conclude:

If Davius were to sincerely apologize to me on here for lying about things (whether it was intentional or not), which caused me to give him that long/harsh verbal thrashing, I'd accept it with no hard feelings.
We are ALL human and make stupid mistakes, but it takes a real man to sincerely apologize when he is wrong.
I admit that I might have excessively chewed him out for lying & trying to make me look bad, that I probably went a bit too far on my part, & I sincerely apologize for the severity of that tongue lashing....
........
........
I would like to put this issue behind us and get on with the grease monkey conversations!! After all, that's why we're all here in the first place... it's a guy thing that most women just don't understand. The feeling of busting your knuckles & getting greasy fixing your own vehicle WITHOUT getting screwed over by the dealership/bad mechanics is priceless!!! So let's forgive each other and forget about previous mistakes so we can move on and get to the good stuff...second gen Acura 3.2tl's and their list of crazy issues!!

I thought that I finished off that post as gracefully as I could with the paragraph above? Apologize. Forgive. Forget about past mistakes. Move on....
You didn't actually read my entire post, did you???
Maybe you should next time? Then you wouldn't write snarky replies like this in such a salty manner to someone who has ALREADY apologized, made amends for their mistakes, and moved on.
I apologized and have already moved on, so please do the same... and let's get back to talking about Acura's, their quirks/problems, and how we can help other fellow Acura owner's fix them.

P.S. I DID NOT "personally attack" another member, just retaliated... there is a BIG difference!
I justifiably "called them out" on their LIE.
Is their LIE (that attempts to make ME look bad) NOT a "personal attack" on me?? THAT was the "line that was crossed".
I did NOTHING wrong before this member LIED.
I DID, however, go a little overboard on the tongue-lashing I gave them BUT I sincerely apologized for it afterwards and it won't happen again.
I then moved on and turned the page... but "someone" keeps bringing it back up??
Please let's just move on and get back to talking about why we are ALL here in the first place... our Acura's!!

(This past issue should NEVER be brought up again, right? No reason for it.)

 

I've asked twice now that you move on. And yet, here we are, with another rant on the same topic.

You've said, "I'm a full grown man". So show the maturity to take good advice when it's given: move on and stop trying to relitigate the same trivial incident; three times is far more than enough. Unless you want to risk further censure.

I will not ask again.