cleaning fuel injectors?
no one here that i know of has for cleaning purposes. You will have to remove the upper intake mani, unbolt the fuel line, and rails then lift them up and out to expose the injectors. Soak teh tips in cleaner for awhile. Reinstall into rail (i would apply a small bit of Vaseline to the rubber O rings to allow them to slip into place better and easier before trying to install)
I would use Seafoam to clean them properly while on the car, not just another crap product in the tank- this is the same stuff the dealer uses in the machine for $99!
See thread Seafoamed the ol TL for details
If you are going to remove them -might as well send to the shop for flow adjustment and balance- thats race car spec!
See thread Seafoamed the ol TL for details
If you are going to remove them -might as well send to the shop for flow adjustment and balance- thats race car spec!
reason i want to clean them is because im not getting great mileage on my car
I'm almost @ half (3 ticks before the middle) and I have only driven 110 Miles.....My driving is very calm...I don't accelerate hard and I have all my tires balanced and properly inflated...I use 94 OCtane gas....something doesn't add up....my air filter is new...so I dunno what else to cover to ensure better gas mileage....
btw..I drive to work everyday..10 miles there and 10 miles back....on the highway....and I do occasional city driving...
I'm almost @ half (3 ticks before the middle) and I have only driven 110 Miles.....My driving is very calm...I don't accelerate hard and I have all my tires balanced and properly inflated...I use 94 OCtane gas....something doesn't add up....my air filter is new...so I dunno what else to cover to ensure better gas mileage....
btw..I drive to work everyday..10 miles there and 10 miles back....on the highway....and I do occasional city driving...
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Who told you that? Not an acurazine member!
At 130k you are finally getting the engine broken in and running good.
Fsttyms pulled his motor apart at 200k and it looked brand new inside
Use a full can of Seafoam in the tank and full can in the intake vac line
Take the car for a 30 minute drive, 10 miles barely gets the internal temp up enough to burn off moisture
After that replace the probably original spark plugs- read above post
At 130k you are finally getting the engine broken in and running good.
Fsttyms pulled his motor apart at 200k and it looked brand new inside
Use a full can of Seafoam in the tank and full can in the intake vac line
Take the car for a 30 minute drive, 10 miles barely gets the internal temp up enough to burn off moisture
After that replace the probably original spark plugs- read above post
Originally Posted by 2003.2tl
I'm a little iffy on running seafoam....they said if there is something wrong with your engine, leaks or what not, seafoam will expose them....
what do u think?
I have a 00 Tl w/ 130 miles
what do u think?
I have a 00 Tl w/ 130 miles
Originally Posted by 2003.2tl
damn it!!
I just changed my plugs...and they were a b*tch to change...so im not doing that anytime soon
I just changed my plugs...and they were a b*tch to change...so im not doing that anytime soon
You're ok- new plugs are only recommended IF you have not already done them
Many have over 100k and have not yet replaced them- so for them-its a good idea to do after Seafoam for the total tune up in a can/box
What plugs did you install NGK Iridium or Platinum? or something else- it matters
Many have over 100k and have not yet replaced them- so for them-its a good idea to do after Seafoam for the total tune up in a can/box
What plugs did you install NGK Iridium or Platinum? or something else- it matters
I installed the NGK Iridium
so I can run the seafoam and not change the plugs? hmmm sounds good
what about oil change?
I can swear I read somewhere that a plug and oil change are both necessary after seafoam
so I can run the seafoam and not change the plugs? hmmm sounds good
what about oil change?
I can swear I read somewhere that a plug and oil change are both necessary after seafoam
Do change the oil after doing seafoam thru the crankcase/oil filler cap
If only in the intake and tank you dont even have to do that
Its a solvent not a lubricant and will dislodge gook that needs to be cleaned out
If only in the intake and tank you dont even have to do that
Its a solvent not a lubricant and will dislodge gook that needs to be cleaned out
Go buy 2 cans at 6-8 bucks each and do one in the vac line and the other in a full tank of gas. That way you get instant blast to the pistons and valves and the prolonged scrubbing of the injectors via the gas.
Report back to us
Report back to us
Dude....Seriously....
Look in the main 2nd Gen. forum.....look for "Seafoamed the TL" thread....Not too hard, buddy.
Look in the main 2nd Gen. forum.....look for "Seafoamed the TL" thread....Not too hard, buddy.
Originally Posted by 2003.2tl
i will do it in 2 weeks time...I still have about 1 month left on my oil...if not more but i will change it in 2 weeks time
im worried b/c I don't even know where the vac line is!
im worried b/c I don't even know where the vac line is!
Oh Jesus.....here we go.
HAHAHA!
HAHAHA!
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
You're ok- new plugs are only recommended IF you have not already done them
Many have over 100k and have not yet replaced them- so for them-its a good idea to do after Seafoam for the total tune up in a can/box
What plugs did you install NGK Iridium or Platinum? or something else- it matters
Many have over 100k and have not yet replaced them- so for them-its a good idea to do after Seafoam for the total tune up in a can/box
What plugs did you install NGK Iridium or Platinum? or something else- it matters
SEAFOAM YOUR ENGINE!!! you'll save yourself a lot of money and heartache doing that...
I was about to run seafoam through and replace the spark plugs (I'm at 110k now) any day now and then when I got my car back last week a few days after having the original tranny replaced under warranty, the car started randomly kirking out and driving funny, causing the CEL to turn on... my car's been in and out of shops for nearly a month straight (I miss it SOOO MUCH) for various reasons with only a few days in between fixes (new tires, new bumper after having needed one for 6 months, then tranny right after that, now this)... I took it in and apparently the engine was real dirty, so the spark plugs were misfiring/failing and the thrown codes from that were what caused the CEL to turn on... I've had to wait almost 2 weeks for them to get the parts, replace the spark plugs, clean everything out, replace the gaskets and spark plug seals, etc (I could be wrong about what exactly they did... I'll know all the details tomorrow)... $726 after everything was said and done, Vs. $30-40 for new spark plugs and a little more for the seafoam
... some of that work would've come up eventually, but it sucks that I wasn't able to do more to save myself some money... At least the dealership threw in a battery for real cheap (Original estimate was $680 + tax, but they fudged some numbers and didn't charge labor for that, so I actually only paid $12 for a brand new battery
)
my gas mileage has always been terrible (17ish, 20 on really long roadtrips), but I've always blamed it on my heavy foot... altough somehow after reading the OPs 2nd post, I have a feeling I may have been losing a few miles/gallon to a dirty, dirty engine (It was already filthy when I installed my spacers a little while back)
I was about to run seafoam through and replace the spark plugs (I'm at 110k now) any day now and then when I got my car back last week a few days after having the original tranny replaced under warranty, the car started randomly kirking out and driving funny, causing the CEL to turn on... my car's been in and out of shops for nearly a month straight (I miss it SOOO MUCH) for various reasons with only a few days in between fixes (new tires, new bumper after having needed one for 6 months, then tranny right after that, now this)... I took it in and apparently the engine was real dirty, so the spark plugs were misfiring/failing and the thrown codes from that were what caused the CEL to turn on... I've had to wait almost 2 weeks for them to get the parts, replace the spark plugs, clean everything out, replace the gaskets and spark plug seals, etc (I could be wrong about what exactly they did... I'll know all the details tomorrow)... $726 after everything was said and done, Vs. $30-40 for new spark plugs and a little more for the seafoam
... some of that work would've come up eventually, but it sucks that I wasn't able to do more to save myself some money... At least the dealership threw in a battery for real cheap (Original estimate was $680 + tax, but they fudged some numbers and didn't charge labor for that, so I actually only paid $12 for a brand new battery my gas mileage has always been terrible (17ish, 20 on really long roadtrips), but I've always blamed it on my heavy foot... altough somehow after reading the OPs 2nd post, I have a feeling I may have been losing a few miles/gallon to a dirty, dirty engine (It was already filthy when I installed my spacers a little while back)
If you come here looking for help and we all say the exact same thing-
which is spend 15 bucks and 30 minutes of low skill level labor,
and you are good to go- DO IT NOW!!!!!!!!!
There is ONE hose to follow, disconnect and use.
Just dont add any to the oil right now- wait until change- the main problem we are working thru is the engine running condition so intake and gas are primary
If you cant do that- then spend 99 bucks at the quickie-screw for their injector service
which is spend 15 bucks and 30 minutes of low skill level labor,
and you are good to go- DO IT NOW!!!!!!!!!
There is ONE hose to follow, disconnect and use.
Just dont add any to the oil right now- wait until change- the main problem we are working thru is the engine running condition so intake and gas are primary
If you cant do that- then spend 99 bucks at the quickie-screw for their injector service
I fear not the flaming of Ehulk and his German spark plugs in a jap car!
What WAS wrong with your car anyway?
01tl4tl now wears:
Pyrotect fire resistant innerwear and Bell SFI-5 driver suit
while at computer
What WAS wrong with your car anyway?
01tl4tl now wears:
Pyrotect fire resistant innerwear and Bell SFI-5 driver suit
while at computer
No idea, man. Still trying to figure it out. I think I'm going to get a scope this weekend, and start listening. Gas mileage has been much improved since the initial Seafoaming....and I just dumped a can into the gas tank. In the couple of weeks, I'll put it through the vac line and the crankcase....who knows, if I'm feeling froggy, I might just replace the plugs.....yet again!
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I fear not the flaming of Ehulk and his German spark plugs in a jap car!
What WAS wrong with your car anyway?
01tl4tl now wears:
Pyrotect fire resistant innerwear and Bell SFI-5 driver suit
while at computer
What WAS wrong with your car anyway?
01tl4tl now wears:
Pyrotect fire resistant innerwear and Bell SFI-5 driver suit
while at computer

Originally Posted by 2003.2tl
i will do it in 2 weeks time...I still have about 1 month left on my oil...if not more but i will change it in 2 weeks time
im worried b/c I don't even know where the vac line is!
im worried b/c I don't even know where the vac line is!
For your current situation we are focusing the efforts on cleaning the injectors,valves and pistons so the gas tank and intake vac line are the places to use seafoam today.
When you are ready to change the oil, add 1/3 to a whole pint can thru the oil cap and run for 15 minutes.
Change the oil/filter and it will have cleaned all the oil passages and valve lifters
When you are ready to change the oil, add 1/3 to a whole pint can thru the oil cap and run for 15 minutes.
Change the oil/filter and it will have cleaned all the oil passages and valve lifters
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