Hey everyone.. been lurking for a while here but not sure if i ever posted.

Anyway,.. I was out driving tonight and pulled over to look at a map. After about 40 seconds of being parked on an incline, my car started shaking, felt like it was going to stall.. I was a little low on gas so I figured maybe the sensor went a little crazy due to the incline and I started to move the car to level everything out.

When I started moving, the CEL started flashing, and the engine kept vibrating. After a few blocks, the TCS light came on solid. I made it to my destination and did what I needed to do.. when I started it up again the vibration , CEL, and TCS light were still present, and I made my way home, stopping for gas in the process.

The entire ride home the engine was vibrating, and the CEL was alternating between solid and flashing.

Has anyone seen anything like this? Any ideas where I can even begin to look? Is there a fuse I can pull to reset the ecu(limp mode?)? I feel lost with the Acura.. I'm used to Dodge's...

thanks all for any advice! sorry if this is something that gets brought up a lot, i searched the best I could and couldn't find anything...

 

btw.. if it helps.. 2000 TL, 101,500 miles

no previous issues(since i've had it) except a worn engine mount(replaced months ago)

have had it since 1/2007 @ 76,000 miles

 

bump with more info.

pulled the clock backup fuse to reset the pcm. after about a min the cel returned. no strange noises under the hood. the motor is rocking a bit at idle(never made note of the normal amount of vibration so not sure if its excessive or not)

thats about all i got

 

I have the exact same car with the same problem to a tee. The difference is I have 58,000 miles. This happened to me on Thursday. I pulled the codes from computer. P0301,P0305,P0300, and P1399. All indicate random misfires.

Changed out the spark plugs reset the codes and know I get codes P0301,
P0304,P0300, and P1399.

Looking for help myself. Going to move the COPS today and see if this the problem.

From other threads the problem may be blocked EGR passages. I had this happen to a 1994 SHO. The SHO's trouble codes pointed right to the problem. Looks like Acura may not be that simple

What I don't understand is if the EGR ports arw blocked why did this happen so abruptly. Sound more like an electrical problem.
Keep me posted.

 

If the problem is the EGR passages is the work covered by ACURA ? Although I do all my own work I'm tempted to call the dealer. Does anyone know if this is try ?

 

Why dont you guys try fixing the real problem- which is likely a dead ignition coil

When you get multiple misfire codes, its OFTEN just 1 bad coil- $50 part

Changing the plugs wont fix a shake- resetting the ECU wont fix a bad coil,
but--- when you are trying the cylinders to see which one is bad, you need to reset the ECU after each cylinder to test it fresh
Go get the codes read- then we can proceed with diagnosis

99s had a warranty cleaning of the EGR port- call acura and ask if you are affected
1-800-382-2238 x5. See gen 2 diy thermoblock install and egr cleaning to fix at home for other years

Plugged egr will show up at idle

 

Thanx. I've just had that same problem diagnosed today Autozone pulled the codes P0303 and P1399. I'm going to try the ignition coil.

 

Subscribed

 

remember- when you try the new coil on a cylinder, reset the ecu- either remove battery neg cable- requiring reset of radio/nav security codes- OR use the CLOCK fuse on passenger side foot area or doorsill- that does not affect the radio.

When you find the bad one- remove the spark plug and inspect- may be partially or heavily fouled or worn due to dieng coil
7 bucks at parts store- get 1 ngk platinum, thats a match to the stock plugs

Confirm the numbering of the cylinders with parts store-iirc,
the back 3 are 123 and the front 456
its not normal, which would make it right for the TL-

 

Fixed my problem was an ignition coil. The problem is trying to figure out which coil. Erase the codes and move the COPS to different cylinders. Pull new codes and sit down and analysis the misfires. Found the bad coil first try !

 

All my plugs looked good. Even the plug in the cylinder with the bad coil Wasn't wet. Plugs are cheap insurance. At 8 years old I really don't trust there reliablity.

 

8 years, you were ready for new plugs anyway, and timing belt/water pump is ready on age- if not done on miles yet

NGK Platinum or NGK Iridium are recommended

Usually you get codes with cylinder numbers on them. Start at the first one listed, install new coil - reset ECU, if engine still rough- move to next listed cyl- install coil-reset ecu- start car....

 

I used the NGK Laser Platimum plugs. (Same plug as original) Water pump and timing belt will be done in near future. I've done the water pump and timing belt on 1994 SHO. I'm assuming the TL will be similiar. The TL appears to have a little more room under the hood. Does the engine mount have to be removed ? I need to go to the ALLDATA and check out the installation. Thanks for the help. Not famliar with these cars. I never drive the TL. I have a 6sp G35 that I drive. A lot more fun !

 

the timing belt isnt bad if you have experience with fwd cars, not much room to work, a few belt tensioners to replace, but 1st timers have been able to follow the book and have no left over bolts or parts. If you have medium level skills- capable of jobs beyond the brakes and plugs- you can find the info you need

Its just time consuming getting thru all the stuff to the actual things you want to replace.
Book Labor about 5-6 hours for that, and you should adjust the valves- the intakes will be loose by now. You have to take off some of the same covers to see the cam gears anyway, so a few hours more--and while the intake manifold is off for that, clean the EGR ports on it. They get plugged really easy- 75k miles and they will be very dirty, along with the intake manifold runners.

 

Thanks for the info 01Tl4tl ! That's exactlyl what I did on the SHO. I didn't have to change out the belt tension on the SHO. The only other part I replaced besides the belt was the crank seal. No leaks but recommended. I know what you're talking about with the intake. The SHO was a total mess. Took a good hour to clean. Any recommendations on where to buy parts ? Timing belt and tentioners are critical. I don't want to use junk. Thanks Again !

 

thanks for the info and replies all. sadly, i didn't get back here till now and the car is already off at the mechanic - doh!

anyway,.. he's a good guy that I've known for years and he won't rip me off.. i'll have to pay a little extra for labor as opposed to doing it myself, but at least I know he's not gonna try to replace my transmission or something.

thanks to the info here, i'm quite a bit less worried about falling into debt when I get the bill

thanks again everyone

edit: and i'll be sure to update this thread once the mechanic gives me a call with the diagnosis

 

Anybody ever heard of a problem like this: When I'm up to speed, anything above 45, and cruising my 99 TL begins to have small shake from front to back. Not just a vibration but a very noticeable bounce you could say. As if the motor is bouncing as it twists from front to back. But then if I left off or give it more gas the shaking subsides. I ran a bottle of seafoam thru to clean the injectors a little if they were spitting at low RPM's. Any input would be helpful. I was thinking that it had something to do with a coil gone bad but I have no misfire codes.

 

motor/trans mounts?

 

Figured it out, it was my egr valve ing out. Sensor built in wasn't sending to the ECU right.