Hey all,
I'm new to this forum, working on my friend's 2G TL..
Well it has couple of problems at this moment, hope you guys can give me some idea so I can fix'em all soon.


1) Car shakes upon acceleration.
Whenever I hit the gas, (mostly over 30-40mph) whole car shakes violently but does not shake when cruising around.

He's replaced engine mounts, suspension(strut, spring), tires(wheel balance/alignment done), but nothing fixed the problem. Well nothing above could possibly caused this issue, he came to me after replacing everything above...lol

I've done some research, numbers of results say that inner joint is prime suspect.
So I've taken everything apart, took out both axle but cosmetically it seems quite fine. Boots are still intact, no tear, no leak. Pinions seem fine, too.

Is it possible that something might have gone wrong inside even the boots are still intact?
(You may need to correct me on this part if I'm wrong..I've never worked on FWD car, thus I have less knowledge of CV axle.)
If not, then ummm...don't wanna think it's transmission issue..


2) Oil light keep comes on
Oil level light comes on every few minutes. Dipstick says oil level is fine, so I think it's some sort of sensor issue..My car has oil level sensor, does TL has that kind of sensor? If so, where is it located?


Well those are current issue at this moment..
I'm looking forward to hear your idea, any input would be appreciated..
Thanks in advance!

 

there is an idiot light oil pressure sensor ~30 bucks and half hour
one of the acura parts sites will have location on diagram

sounds like cv axle to me- replace entire unit with new one from napa auto parts between 75-100 bucks per side,,get new not rebuilt

the boots can be fine and still wear out a bearing from curb shots or potholes or age.
if a boot tears, grease out-grit in= definite unit replacement

 

never hurts to seafoam the oil, 1/2 can (8oz to oil) drive 30 miles+ and change oil and filter
that will clean the pickup screen in case sludge is forming on it and
all the passages,, so you get good pressure

 

I used to have a violent shake. I thought it might have been just me, but once my passenger felt it and thought my car was gonna blow.

It fixed itself, as with most other problems my car had. Well, at least the symptoms went away =]

If it's more of a "shudder" it could be an EGR problem.

 

well my car was shaking when i accelarated, and it got worse as i kept driving. it first started on the passenger side then i felt it on driver side also.

it was actually my axles, i had to replace both of them. but this was only because I slammed my car, and a day after the shaking started to occur.

 

My first guess would be a Axle. Have the mechanic put it on the lift and inspect them.

As for the oil light coming on, driving with that could be VERY costly. If the oil pump were loosing pressure you could fry your motor very quickly. That light is one i would NEVER assume is just a dummy light and to ignore. I would replace the oil pressure sensor seeing its very cheap and see if it solves it.

 

Put an oil press. gauge on it to measure the pressure. Then you'll know if there's a problem before buying parts.

 

Thanksss guys I've already removed axles, ready to replace..Need to work on upper ball joints first, no biggie.
I'll keep you posted, let you know how it works!
Thanks again

 

I have the same issue with my car, replaced axles, motor mount, got tires balanced again. still shakes

 

i would say possibly an egr problem although if it was that bad you would prob throw a cel...the other thing could be the differntial which could mean the trans....

 

anyone with probs that `should` throw a cel-
watch the cel during the dash light test phase of start up
bulbs have been known to fail~

 

Without pulling everything and replacing it is there anything i can do to check for this same vibration. Im having the same issue where it feels like a tire is not balanced but only during acceleration.

 

Little update-Check this thread
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...4#post12833354

 

My car also shakes upon acceleration. It usually does it from 2nd to 3rd gear and when it shakes, it makes a noise real loud for about 3-5 seconds that sounds like errrrrrrrrr. I can continue to accelerate and it will stop but I usually let off the gas which stops it and then I continue accelerating. Any help is awesome thanks!

 

I've tried to PM you back but your inbox was full...lol

I'm guessing you put the lever on D and monitored situation, which means speed was around 25-35mph when gear upshifted from 2nd->3rd.

In my case, car was noticeably vibrating after 30mph. More specifically, beyond 3k rpm accelerating hard..Didn't notice any sort of noise, though. Of course, replacing CV axles solved this issue as I mentioned..


Ok first, jack up the car and see if boots are damaged. Inner CV joint is your prime suspect, take a look at them first. My case, boots were intact but joint was shot.

Second, put your gear in manual mode, accelerate hard beyond 4k rpm (try all gears). If it really is CV inner joint problem, it'll shake in any gear position..

It's my first FWD car that I've worked on in my life, so information given by me would not be 100% accurate..But it'll give you sketchy idea how to eliminate the list of problems and pinpoint the source.

Feel free to PM me anytime whenever you need my help Or email me at shiren79@gmail.com.

Happy motoring!

 

Thanks ill have to check it out man

 

I have problem with this shuddering myself with my 03 TL-S and I can't figure out what it is; it shakes violently at 30-40 mph; some says its' transmission got it diagnoses and no code pop up regarding tranny beside tps malfunction and misfiring of cylinder which recently got it fixed and shuddering continues and I can't figure it out; any suggestion to what might causes the violent shake??

Also, reading through the tread; i got my axle and cv boot and all that mentioned inspected and everything is perfectly fine and yet the shuddering still occur.

 

Shuddering could very well be caused by the TPS malfunction. If its not sending the right signal the ECU may be going wacky causing that trying to compensate for its reading.

 

did you reset the ECU after the misfire was resolved??

remove CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for a minute and reinsert
that is the secret backup power to the ecu and works like pulling the power cord for your PC at home--forced master clear and relearn

 

kris what would cause a TPS code- do we even have one?

 

Thanks, I couldn't figure out how to reset the ecu; I will do it tonight before leaving to work. hopefully this solves the matter been dealing with this issue since the beginning its @170k and still running she a trooper

 

The only way to eliminate your axles as a possibility is to replace them with new [not reman] axles. It is very common for the axles and boots to look perfect and still cause shaking.

 

the TPS not working or functioning properly. If he had a TPS code that would be the first thing i looked at. He had a TPS code come up. Unfortunately its not a part you can buy from the dealer. You have to buy a whole TB. You can get a aftermarket one and install it but you need to cut a notch in the rivet style screw and back them out then need a multi meter and to know the stock values of it and adjust it properly.