A/C stopped blowing
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
A/C stopped blowing
Soooo, I posted this a while back, the harness under the glove compartment that is connected to what I assume is the transistor melted, so I went to get a new harness and thought that would fix it but as the guy from acura told me, if the harness melted then the transistor must be bad, does this make sense? Should I buy the transistor since changing the harness didn't fix it? Is it a hard job or is the transistor the round black piece the harness is connected to? Thanks guys.
#2
Always Working In
The fan motor harness only has two wires into it whereas the transistor harness has four wires going to it and its located right behind the fan motor. Sorta trapezoid shaped.
If you have a ohmmeter available then you can try checking the resistance value of the transistor.
I don't have any actual specs but the value shouldn't be super low or super high.
If the harness is burnt I'd say there is a problem there.
Really easy to take a look at it. Two screws and its dropped from the fan motor housing its in. I guess its cooled by the fan too.
Ill see if I can find more info on it
If you have a ohmmeter available then you can try checking the resistance value of the transistor.
I don't have any actual specs but the value shouldn't be super low or super high.
If the harness is burnt I'd say there is a problem there.
Really easy to take a look at it. Two screws and its dropped from the fan motor housing its in. I guess its cooled by the fan too.
Ill see if I can find more info on it
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
The fan motor harness only has two wires into it whereas the transistor harness has four wires going to it and its located right behind the fan motor. Sorta trapezoid shaped.
If you have a ohmmeter available then you can try checking the resistance value of the transistor.
I don't have any actual specs but the value shouldn't be super low or super high.
If the harness is burnt I'd say there is a problem there.
Really easy to take a look at it. Two screws and its dropped from the fan motor housing its in. I guess its cooled by the fan too.
Ill see if I can find more info on it
If you have a ohmmeter available then you can try checking the resistance value of the transistor.
I don't have any actual specs but the value shouldn't be super low or super high.
If the harness is burnt I'd say there is a problem there.
Really easy to take a look at it. Two screws and its dropped from the fan motor housing its in. I guess its cooled by the fan too.
Ill see if I can find more info on it
Wow, so the harness I'm talking about is the fan motor harness because it has two wires that are blue and yellow, so it must be my fan motor that's bad, the harness is located under the glove compartment and it is to the right of a circular black box, am I correct?
#4
dont assume the motor is bad- take it out and test it
if the wires were burnt you need a resistor/transistor- pull the blower motor assemnbly down and inspect
if the wires were burnt you need a resistor/transistor- pull the blower motor assemnbly down and inspect
#5
Always Working In
I don't know about that 01. When my motor went bad all I had was a code in the climate control and a burnt fan motor harness. The transistor harness was fine and after replacing motor and harness I was back in business.
#7
yep-- probably marked cabin fan or fan--roughly 20 amps would be right
ckd the pass end of dash?
Different parts fail on different cars- so my point is to test before replacement
ckd the pass end of dash?
Different parts fail on different cars- so my point is to test before replacement
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#8
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Thread Starter
#9
Go Brewers!
iTrader: (1)
I recently had a problem with my a/c blower and learned from my.daily'tl' how to get the code if one exists.
If nothings wrong you will just see an alternating "88" and all blanks.
Did you know there was a self diagnostic feature built into the climate control unit? The service manual tells you to turn ignition to II and hold down auto then off buttons simultaneously for one minute and you will see an alternating"88" and a section of the led corresponding to a code. Do that and check back if you dont have the service manual. Tell us what section of the led is "lighting" up.
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Thank you, I tried this and for some reason it did not work, can someone please tell me how to check the fan motor/transistor. Thanks
#11
run 12 volt power to it with small jumper wires from battery
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
UPDATE: So I took my car to the shop and found out it is my transistor and blower motor, the last question I have is should the resistor be changed also? Was not aware of that part.
#13
Always Working In
Case by case can be different. The resistor needs to be tested to specs. Mine wasn't burnt or anything so it was fine. It is easy to disassemble to see. I do understand some ppl not wanting to work on their TL's. If you don't feel comfortable tthen let the shop do the work but get ready for their "diagnosis".
I would replace the motor and connector first since they were burned. Next step would be the transistor.
I would replace the motor and connector first since they were burned. Next step would be the transistor.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Case by case can be different. The resistor needs to be tested to specs. Mine wasn't burnt or anything so it was fine. It is easy to disassemble to see. I do understand some ppl not wanting to work on their TL's. If you don't feel comfortable tthen let the shop do the work but get ready for their "diagnosis".
I would replace the motor and connector first since they were burned. Next step would be the transistor.
I would replace the motor and connector first since they were burned. Next step would be the transistor.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Why does the factory blower motor look so different than the OEM blower motor, just going by what I'm seeing online, I knew the price would be different but didn't expect it to look so different...does it matter if I get the OEM? Will it fit properly?
#19
Attn Hitlayers:
"The transistor circuit board that controls the speed of the blower motor has a large blade shaped heastsink connected to it. This heat sink is inserted into the blower compartment so that is has A/C blown over it to keep it cool. You can find it by looking under the glove compartment right against the floor carpet where your toes normally go. It is a white piece of plastic held in by 2 hex screws and there is a wiring harness connected to it. It is easier to remove the harness if you remove the screws and pull the assembly out first. Just pry off the white plastic to get to the circuit board. This is part number 79330-S0K-A01."
More details and pictures are here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/c-heater-blower-repair-diy-775458/
"The transistor circuit board that controls the speed of the blower motor has a large blade shaped heastsink connected to it. This heat sink is inserted into the blower compartment so that is has A/C blown over it to keep it cool. You can find it by looking under the glove compartment right against the floor carpet where your toes normally go. It is a white piece of plastic held in by 2 hex screws and there is a wiring harness connected to it. It is easier to remove the harness if you remove the screws and pull the assembly out first. Just pry off the white plastic to get to the circuit board. This is part number 79330-S0K-A01."
More details and pictures are here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/c-heater-blower-repair-diy-775458/
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