jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

The blower on my '03 stopped working all together. I found this DIY from:I went through everything on the DIY.
The fuse is good and tested.
The relay is good and tested and contacts cleaned for good measure.
The wire harness had no melting.
The control transistor tested fine except for one connection that KevlarCC suggested.

(From DIY link above)
I test combination 1-2 and 1-3 and tested ok. Tested 2-3 and didn't get anything.
I went and purchased a new one for ~$40 bucks and tested the same thing. I got the same result and it didn't solve the problem.

Decided to just take the blower motor out all together. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be either. I tested it directly on the battery and it turned on successfully. Put it back in thinking i just got it past the faulty part... nothing...
Took it out again and realized that the bushings seemed to be coming out of the inlet, in a disintegrated form... I am ordering a new blower motor online and crossing my fingers that it solves my problems.

On a side note, I don't know how the electrical harnesses work. With the ignition on, I was getting voltage at the blower's harness with FULL AUTO on and with the fans set to OFF.

I really hope the A/C button cluster isn't the problem.

Input/suggestions/ideas welcome!...and thanks to KevlarCC for his DIY!

ANC297

iTrader: (2)

Did you check the transistor assembly for being burnt/melted/blown internal fuse?
Did you check the blower motor sub-harness for being melted/burnt?
Those are the 2 most common problems, happened to my dads 03 about 2 weeks ago, the sub harness was the issue.

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I took the transistor out and there was no melting or burnt anywhere.
I checked the internal fuse for continuity as well.

The harness looked alright on the motor as well, a little corrosion though. I assume when you say sub-harness you are talking about the connection directly to the blower motor, right?

my.daily'tl'

Did you know there was a self diagnostic feature built into the climate control unit? The service manual tells you to turn ignition to II and hold down auto then off buttons simultaneously for one minute and you will see an alternating"88" and a section of the led corresponding to a code. Do that and check back if you dont have the service manual. Tell us what section of the led is "lighting" up.

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I had no idea that there was a self diagnostic built in. I will have to run that when I get home this afternoon. I do not have a navi either if that maked a difference.

Although too little too late... Thanks for next time and anyone else!

my.daily'tl'

If nothings wrong you will just see an alternating "88" and all blanks.

sandmanb

Nubee's first time.
Found this site to assist with my blower prob.
As stated here. Basic connecter burning at motor. Cleaned and scruffed contact surfaces and Silicone over connect. Vrooom Vrooom.
Also learned about the cabin filters. In and out at same time.
Jobs easy except 4 the contorsion moves u have to learn.

Many hundreds of dollars of thanks to all contributers in assist.

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I got the new blower motor yesterday and put it in. Works again now!

I didn't want to reassemble it with the old parts to see if I was getting an error message in in the led display. Oh well, it's hard enough getting in there once, much less doing to again to see if I have a code.

Thanks for the help!

01tl4tl

sand- silcone seal or silicone spray?

acura makes a longer wire and connector to solve this problem- under 20 bucks
lots of electricity running thru there- (fan 20 amps)

best stuff to use is connector grease to prevent crud buildup and resistance= excess heat
Put it right inside the fittings

cabin air filters should be replaced every year- its your health at risk breathing thru crudded up filters
They make ones with antibacterial-anti bad smell absorber (activated charcoal, not briquets) too- see any parts store- they come with the required 2 filters in a box, under 20 bucks
Make sure they go in the direction of flow! air goes towards driver

ndhelp1

My 03 Acura TL A/C blower stopped working. Most likely the problem is the blower motor.

It would be great if jstanhnk10 could post step by step
instructions on how to remove the blower motor
preferably with some pictures. I really appreciate that.

Thanks

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunatly I did not take any pictures...

I would suggest following the DIY that I followed. It was extremely helpful in diagnosing what could be wrong.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=775458

This image was extremely useful!


Number two (on the riht side) is the motor.
I suggest taking off the glove box simply for more clearance (then you can replace the cabin air filters too).
Look underneath and unplug the connector at the bottom of the motor and pull off the air hose.
Then there are three screws that come off easily.

The worst part is just being on your knees and back underneath to see what you need to take off; and i'm no skinny minny... It is extremely do-able!

Then to test the fan when it is out, jumper it directly to the battery.

Keep in mind that by taking out the fan and manually turning it, may "fix" the problem. It may be stuck in a bad spot and not turning on and manually turning the fan takes it off the faulty spot and it may continue to work for a couple months before it gets stuck on that spot again.

Follow the DIY from KevlarCC and you'll become familiar with everything under the passenger dash.

ndhelp1

Thanks Jstanhnke10 for posting the instructions. I already removed
the glove box and changed the filters. I checked all the fuses etc.
They all are ok. My feeling is some debris may be stuck in the fan
blades of the motor. I can see the electrical connector
and the screws for the motor underneath.

Do I need to remove anything else before unscrewing the blower motor.

Hitlayers

Do not mean to hack the thread but does this work on a 99 also? Having the same issue.

Thanks!

ndhelp1

Hello: Thanks again Jstanhnke10. There was no problem
removing the blower motor. It ran smoothly when I connected
it directly to the battery. But my problem is still not solved.
When I turn the fan or the AC, it makes a bushhhh sound as if
it is trying to come on and sound slowly dies down.


You wrote "Took it out again and realized that the bushings seemed to be coming out of the inlet, in a disintegrated form..."

Would you please explain to me what you mean by the
bushings?


I have a builtin nav. I turned ignition to II and held down auto then off buttons simultaneously for one minute. Nothing happened on
the navi/AC screen. Where should I be looking for the code?

Thanks for your help.

ndhelp1

Hey:

I fixed my blower problem. The transistor assembly was the culprit. Replaced it today, and whalla the blower has come back to life.

Thanks a lot for your help jstanhnke10 !

Got a replacement

tomf

So, if nothings wrong - you will see just a blinking " 88 " which would mean my blower is bad then ?

king solis

i had issues with my 99 acura tl. Blower motor was good, wiring was good, no air was comming out when ac was on...The solution was to replace the blower motor resistor... its about a 50 dollar part

Cross Bronx

Hey Guys. Was this ever on a call back, my blower was not working I took it out and notice my blower connection and wire is burn. I ordered a new one on Ebay now waiting for the part.

ggaveit2u27

About how often does the transistor go bad and is there anything to look for as a sign of it going bad.

BirdinFL

I have an '03 TL with this same issue. Has everyone had to remove the dash to do the work? I can't seem to figure out how to get the left side of the passenger side dash disconnected.

Please help!

fsttyms1

Dash does not need to be removed. If you go to the DIY thread you can use the directions to remove the glovebox like stated above but the dash doesnt need to come out.

tbrad820

What did you end up doing with the melted connector?

3.2TLc

Welcome Tbrad820 !!!
The blower's wiring harness connector is a common weak spot on our 2nd Gen TL's.
Most times replacing it with a new one is all that's necessary. A new updated part is available for less than $25 at the dealer's part's dept. Sometimes the resistor pack also fails.

There is detailed info in the "DIY" sticky and previous related threads.

Doubletapp

My blower also stopped working. Did diagnostic and got two segments in the bottom left of the first 8, looks like this : l_ . What does this mean?

3.2TLc

"L" would indicate a possible short or open within the CC's mode control motor circuit.

But, check the blower's wiring harness first. The connector will commonly melt and goes bad.

TLZINE99

Common issues for blower to stopped working is the Resistor they get corroded and started shorting. Check wire connection, clean or replace resistor.

01tl4tl

those seem to be related/combination issue with the faulty connector sending erratic power to the resistor, destroying it
and frequent use of HIGH fan speed pulls lots of current thru weak connector

kenberta

I hope someone is still watching this thread - I ran the diagnostic and the bottom segment of the right 8 is blinking - any help is greatly appreciated!!