About 2 weeks ago I went to turn my lights on and had just one! Replaced the bulb, (even though they go pink before they fizzle out, but had one on hand) and still didn't turn on. So I ordered an oem ballast online for $90, should be here today and I'll install that on Thursday...

Last week I left from work and pull in the garage to both headlights working... so I flip the lights off and then back on - only one headlight. Go to leave later that night and flipped the lights on - both headlights! Both stay on until I get to my destination (bumps didn't cause flicker or anything so I'm ruling out wiring issue?)

Now the light doesn't come on until this morning again after a week of not working... The times the light comes on it's either raining or had rained prior to me driving.

So I'm assuming water is getting to the ballast and caused it to burn out and now is shorting out or something causing the light to function? Or could it possibly be the hardware in the back of the headlight? Wondering if I should get a whole new headlight assembly or is there a way to better seal the ballast from water?

 

Instead of OEM, I would have just went for some good aftermarket ones. I highly recommend the Morimoto XB35 ballasts from TheRetrofitSource. You could've gotten both sides of the price of 1 OEM. OEM ones are just poorly weathersealed so water getting in is definitely a problem.


EDIT: I should mention that '15friday' code gives you 15% off until 6 PM EST today!


Also they're a sponsor of this site

 

cancel that order- oe is the same garbage in there now and if its a used part- forgetaboutit

morimoto is an excellent source, also ck HID Kits | Conversion Kits | Xenon Headlights | HIDeXtra
you want a 35 watt ballast and 5000K color bulbs
They may call it a conversion kit but we have HID= so its a straight new parts for old swap
yes we have a major water issue with the lens to housing seal, leaks out bottom and into ballast --does exactly what you describe

new modern parts are waterproof!!

will need to seal the housing to lens from outside with silicone or flex seal or something, or replace housing

 

Swap your bulbs from side to side. If your good bulb acts up then you'll know it's a ballist problem. If the bad bulb still acts up the it's a bulb problem.

Replace with OEM ifvyou want it to last. Reason, how old is your car... how long did the part last? Or go with major brand name... OE.

 

he has to flick the headlight switch, sometimes one works sometimes not or sometimes the other fails = ballast and igniter issue, same as the rest of us have!!!

Face it, at the cars age we are beyond simple bulb `age death`, its time for a set of modern electronics with matching new bulbs to replace that oe stuff
and I use the word stuff generously
that's why more than 100 threads on low beam failure clog our forum!

 

to me- for the effort to swap bulbs side to side, you can install all new parts and be done with the REAL problem for sure!

 

About 2-3 years ago my '03 headlights went pink and then out - paid ~$950 to get both fixed, the shop probably used OE parts.

 

So let me ask you this, what proof do you have that these Modern Electronics will last as good as OEM?

BTW: hundred threads is nothing compare to how many acuras was sold. IMO.

 

HIDeXtra D2R 5000k HID Kit Signature Series or Volt Series? Is this just a plug and play installation or any modifications needed for our TL's?

 

the regular sized ballast series is what you want in 35 watts with 5000k bulbs

I refer to 100s of threads meaning the low beam issue is a major one with our cars

How do I know modern waterproof connections, sealed in epoxy electronics- will work as well or long as oe? logic!

and if they do wear out in less than 5 or 10 years= I only spent 60 bucks versus the $1000+ for all new oe stuff to replace with the same water leaks in issues!!

 

you do have to cut the old connector off power to ballast and install 4 female connectors to match the 14/16 gauge males supplied on new ballast
Get those in a $2 box at parts store and some plastic tube shrink wrap to cover connections- extra safe that way

No other relays or parts needed as we have HID and are simply swapping old dead parts for new ones

If you can operate wire cutters and pliers you can do this installation!
there are several diys on the job with lots of pics and tips

oh- you might break a few of the push pin connectors holding lower engine cover in place as you learn how to release them , dealer stocks those

 

Yup that's what I was afraid of. It's bullshit and the mechanic tried to tell me my car was a piece of junk after they fixed it and that I should get rid of it. Same mechanic charged me $4,500 for trans rebuild and new tires.

Well that mechanic has lost money hand over fist as my entire family and extended family has stopped going there for everything, including oil changes.

It's about time for mechanics to clean up their image and reputation.

 

I agree your mechanic was a ripoff, 4500 for a motor and tires? I can get a good used engine for 700!! fixed up perfect for install and run 100,000 miles no problem would cost about 1200 plus 500 -750 installation

its ok to post the shops name and city to warn others
Let your local BBB and STATE bureau of auto repair shop licensing know whats up

Shame them on YELP reviews and anyplace you find their ads

 

nice of them to say it was a POS ---AFTER they bent you over!!

did you break the timing belt? that's about all that causes total engine replacement

note BBB = Better Business Bureau, its voluntary to join but many places are members, you can use them to help get some money back
Look up shop on BBB website

 

hey 01acls exactly how long have you owned your TL? or do you drive a CL? in that case go back to your section~
are you a professional mechanic?
are you over 35 years old and know a thing or two about life?

I said LOGIC was on my side of using modern parts, let me add SCIENCE!! to that

 

No this wasn't my engine, it was for my trans rebuild in '11 at 96K miles.

It's partly my fault being totally uninformed at the time but I've since wised up. You only have to be bent over so many times before you realize the other guy is the only one getting any pleasure out of the deal.

If mechanic shaming is allowed then it's Burt Bros and they're all over the Utah region. Before I could warn my dad he had all 4 brakes/rotors on his Tahoe replaced - $950. They quoted me $500 for the front brakes/rotors on my Suburban and I did it myself for $80.

I mean good grief no wonder why so many people toss their cars at 100K miles and buy new. These crooks will charge you enough for a new one just in regular maintenance!

 

oops mistyped motor instead of trans rebuild- sorry- I'm old~
still overpriced! and I can get a used accord trans for 700 and same for installation

many newer cars are designed to last 100kmiles and be sent for teardown at the auto recycler (junkyard) Most parts come with the triangle recycle symbol on them.
The auto makers dream is 1 owner for 50kmiles, 2nd owner or 3rd till 100-150 and then the big maintenance bill causes the car to be tossed away like a paper coffee cup!
That makes room for another new car to be sold!!