Hey Guys, I was told by my mechanic who I have been going to for over 14 years and who I trust that all my mounts are bad, the total damage would be close to $1000 which I do not have at the moment, would it be a good idea to start changing the ones I can change here and there, or does anyone know if I would be able to change all of them myself? I guess the main question is, should I change one at a time since I am not financially able to change all right now?

 

if he is dead sure that you need to replace all mounts then only go for it....

replacing the mounts is simple (I have done it on a 3G and i dont think the 2G is much different)....

the order i would do if your replacing one by one is:
Front
Rear
Side

Check innovative mounts if they make SOLID mounts for your car....I have them since 55K miles and they have been perfect...besides they come with lifetime warranty so if the mount breaks or doughnuts then they replace it for free....they do add some in cabin vibrations and if that is a major issue then go with stock....

you can buy stock parts at AcuraOEMparts and they usually have cheaper rates than the dealers around you....

hope this helps...

 

always get a 2nd opinion on major surgery~

we have several vendors who will cut a deal on the mounts, and you can find a local ziner to help diy

does the engine have a mystery miss? thats front/rear vac boosted units= bad mount

typically the front goes around first trans replacement time ~60-80kmiles
and is easily replaced then
If front goes undetected and driven hard= side mount goes
Continued operation with 2 critical mounts failed= each one in line takes more, and a different load than it was designed for

for all to be bad--what is up with your car? some backstory!!

 

the 1 at a time method will result in the new part taking a dive too

 

Front and side are the most important. Buy them yourself and install them yourself


http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp

 

So the Front and side should be the ones I run to do first? If so, the side would be on the passenger side which is the most visable and where would the front be, sorry dont have a manual, can you show a break down of where the mounts are?

Thanks!

 

Pop hood and look down between radiator and motor. Thats where the front is.

 

I love how you make everything seem so easy.


There's a DIY in the DIY List. There are a couple good ones that aren't on the list, so just search google for it. Those threads will pop up with all the other mount threads.

Side mount is a breeze, and the front mount is easy too if you follow the DIY. The most important part is having the right tools. Not that you need any special things, but a U-joint can help a lot. Also, obviously have a Torque wrench handy.

 

Thanks for everyones help, one last question, not to sound oblivious, but we have 5 mounts correct? And the locations are one in the front, one on each side one in the back and then the tranny mount, is this right?

 

iirc 3 engine and 2 trans mounts
the front/rear and p-side are for the engine,,

 

7, 34(depending on the year of the car #34 may be #5) , 6, 2, 3 are the engine mounts and trans mounts<- (2 & 3)

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the help, so the side mounts and the front mount are the most important and probably the easiest to do.

 

they take the most load- observe movement when revving in Park

 

There aren't multiple side mounts, just one. I'll spell it out. There are 5 total mounts. 3 are for the engine and 2 are for the transmission:

Engine:
-Front (1 mount)
-Side (1 mount)
-Rear (1 mount)

Transmission:
-Front (1 mount)
-Rear (1 mount)

Changing the front and side mount will help a LOT. However, if the rear mount is already busted, then the front and side will fail much sooner than they normally would. Because of this, it might be best to change the rear mount too.

Change the front and the side, and then test to see if the rear mount is broken. If the engine moves too much, then change the rear too.

 

If all 5 mounts (3 engine, 2 tranny) are bad I'd be very surprised. Anyways it is possible. The OEM parts are expensive to boot.

What I'd do and did. Go to rock auto and buy the two tranny mounts there for about $20-25 bucks total. Also buy the Anchor rear mount for $60.00 it is vac assisted. Buy the Anchor side mount $25 bucks? and Anchor front mount $55 bucks from Rock Auto. Total is now at $160-165. The rear mount OEM is about $160 by itself (rip off!!!). Next call Acura and buy two new vac hoses for the mounts and new hardware for the front, side and rear engine mounts (Anchors tranny mounts come with new hardware). Cost for that from Acura will be right at $20.00. Now your at $180-185 bucks total. Next order 2 pounds of liquid 60a polyurethane from mcmasters.com. Cost will be about $70.00, buy a roll of duct tape for a few bucks, now we'll round up to $260.00 total outlay of cash.

 

New hardware for the mount? What are you talking about? There are two screws that you should replace for the rear mount, but there's nothing else but the mounts for the rest.

What hardware are you talking about? Also, you shouldn't have to replace the vac line.

 

The hardware I'm speaking of are the bolts that connect the mounts to the chassis. Front and rerar have 4 each and side has 2. Always change hardware whenever you can. The vac lines are cheap enough and I'd recommend changing them if yours are original. You may be OK if don't, but why not change them? Also taking the vac line off the old mount can sometimes be really tricky especially the rear mount. I had to cut my rear vac line.