acedeman35661

OK, so I have a broken timing belt I’ve tore down. I replace the water pump. I replaced The pulleys Have a new tensioner on there now I got the part from rock auto sent me a kit and the timing belt has a number of 286 with some letters in front of it now everywhere I’ve searched for the part. They all have the 286. This timing belt is so tight that I can’t get it up over the last pulley, I’ve got everything tight start started to the front cam and worked my way around to the back cam it’s all locked in with cam so they don’t move everything lined up I think when the belt broke the cams were up toward the top line so I’m hoping I got away without bending that’s not the issue. The issue is I can’t get this timing belt up on this last tensioner pulley cause it just so tight and I’ve got it tight all the way around, my brother wants to argue with me and say I’ve got the wrong belt but I’ve the same number 286 that everyone says is the belt all the parts stores app have the same numbers just different letters on the front I’m guessing for the manufacturer anyway I’m gonna send pictures you tell me if I’m doing something wrong here or if you see anything that I don’t see cause I can’t figure out why this thing is so tight and I can’t get up over that last tensioner pulley Anybody have any tricks I can use? Do I need to stretch it or I just don’t understand why it’s not going on any help would be appreciated.

You can see how tight it is just can’t get it to go up onto the pulley

And really I am only using my one hand here and not really pulling hard so it is even a little bit closer but should it b this tight?

thoiboi

Might be a dumb question, but you've already depressed the tensioner 'grenade' and put the pin back in right?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I just checked my Aisin kit for a 2G CL-S and you have the right belt.

thoiboi has a great point because it appears your new tensioner has been sprung already?
Otherwise, we'd be able to see it (the pin) above there by the belt?


Here is the Aisin preloaded tensioner and the plunger is set back more so than yours pictured above?

In addition, sometimes it helps to loosen the TB idler pulley bolt 2-4 turns, once the TB is routed completely, re-torque idler bolt to 33lbft-ft, then pull the tensioner pin.

Once satisfied with TB placement, then bar the engine over a few times to check all the timing marks jiving together.
Good Luck!

acedeman35661

I didn’t remove the pin from the tensioner yet haven’t touched it yet but I will double check that

acedeman35661

this is the tensioner that is on it

acedeman35661

acedeman35661

question do you or anyone know how many grooves are supposed to be on the belt? I count 197 grooves on my belt

thoiboi

can you put the belt on without the tensioner in place? Keep the belt tension on the crank to the front cam to the water pump and there should be enough extra slack to wrap around the rear cam. I found that was the best way. Then install the tensioner and pull the pin

acedeman35661

thank you for your help because you mentioned that about the tensioner I took it off to check it and then went ahead and tried to put the belt on without it and discovered my problem now I didn’t think since I hadn’t pulled that pin yet that that would have caused the problem so anybody in the future that has that problem put the belt on first without the tensioner and then put the tensioner on and then pull the pin once you know that you are still lined up. Anyway thank you now I just have to hope that I don’t have any bent valves and I know that is a slight possibility already but it seems like from reading a ton of accounts of people who have had a broken timing belt that is there are a lot that have escaped
valve damage. I have to think that because the cams were only slightly off the marks that maybe I could get lucky? But I will know more shortly when I try and start it and I will let you know.

acedeman35661

yes that was the problem and I was able to get it on finally