Does anyone know if Accord alternators from J30's can be used in the TL (1999)?

 

If you want more power you can use the Oddysey 130A Alt.

 

Not so much the power as the cost. Most Accord alternators seem to be nearly half price of the Acura ones. Just need to know if it will work.

 

Just make sure the Amps are at least the stock ones if you go the Accord Route. They should work fine if they come from the same year as your car. J30 99' should bolt in on a J32A1. But can't say about the Amps..

For reference:
TL-p = 110A
TL-S = 120A

 

Thanks. I just have to get the old one out now! That lower bolt is a

 

Pricing depends on aftermarket sourcing or OEM.
Something to consider is to pull the original alternator out and have it rebuilt by an automotive electrical specialty shop. Mine was rebuilt to the higher amp specs and cost much less than a new or reconditioned part. The key to saving money here is the labor involved in replacing the unit.

 

^ How much and for how many Amps?

 

Yeah! I just have to get that last bolt out!!!!!!

Its soaking overnight in WD40.

 

Stick with the Acura or Oddy alternator. The Accord part may fit, IDK....but there may be some minor differences in the mounting or wiring connection. Not worth the frustration for a few bucks that ya may save.

Are ya looking at brand new or reman units ?

Remans will vary in quality depending upon where ya buy it from. Keep the warranty !!!

New OEM's will cost $300 +, so rebuilding the original one makes good sense for best value. Mine was about $100 for rebuilding to an extra winded 120A output. That was with me doing the removal and install of unit.
Dropped it off at shop in morning, done in the afternoon. No problems.....1 year warranty.

 

I will probably have it rebuilt. Definitely don't want a new one. After I remove it, I need to find a local shop to do it. At least I have a rough price guide now. Thanks, 3.2TLc.

BTW, local auto parts store quoted me $250 for a reman + $110 core charge. $350 for a new one. This is for the Acura part (ACDELCO I believe). The Accord part was about $180 + core.

 

Remans, depending on brand.......are about $125 plus core charge or trade in old unit.
Ya may be able to pick up a used Oddy alternator at a salvage yard for less than $100.

 

By the way, now that you have pulled the alternator....it may be a good time to think about replacing the drive belt and check the auto-tensioner's mechanism.

 

Oddly enough, that was done over a year ago when the timing belt was changed. Probably should have changed the alternator then too as preventative maintenance. The car has about 93K miles on it and is only driven in the summer months.

Haven't got the alternator out yet so its all a bit moot. Once its out, I'll phone a few wreckers as well.

 

Buying a used alternator is sometimes a gamble......unless ya know what it came out of and how many miles were on the motor. Most original Honda/Acura alternators and starters are good for a long time.....mine had worked well up until 150K before giving up. Be sure to clean up all wiring connections, especially the grounds.

 

as long as you keep a good battery in the car- the alternator doesn't have to work overtime- just normal as designed - so it has a long long life on the TL
100kmiles I wouldn't even think of it needing replacement, its belt and tensioner for sure though

If your town still has an old guy that rebuilds alternators (probably starters to for reference) jump on that!

If there was no warning noise of main shaft bearing failure, and you can freely spin the alt fan/shaft by hand now that its out of the car, chances are good it only needs brushes
Back in the day we would do this for our own cars and the race cars, certain customers,,,the rest got a rebuilt unit from the place that only rebuilds parts
Its not that difficult but certain tools and skills may be required
I have not taken TL alt apart to know the modern changes,so don't quote me on it being easy!

 

If you like to drive with a 500-1000 watt stereo, and added massive driving lights, having the rebuilder add wiring to up the amps is a smart idea
Ability above actual needs is a good thing!

 

Ok, so an update. I made a cheater bar out of some square tubing and managed to undo the lower bolt. After removing the radiator fan, I pulled out the alternator. So I had an idea. I undid the rear cover and blew out the alternator with compressed air, cleaned all the contacts and then reinstalled it. I charged the battery to 12.5v and started the engine. The battery now measures 14.5v on idle and about 13.5v with the high beams and rear defogger on and about 14v @ 3000rpm. So.... do I leave in the old unit in or do I remove it and get a new one? At least I can take it out easily now. The hardest part is getting the fan out of the way.

 

It all depends on the Battery! My Stock Alternator (120A) has been a loyal and reliable partner for almost 13yr now with 210K on the Clock it still rocks my 1K RMS Audio System and 6 HIDs Lights when Needed..


Unless you are flying way ahead of a HUGE Audio System and I mean something way beyond 1.5K RMS, 120A is the way to go! Even the TL-p 110A should do the trick up to 800RMS and power all car accessories just fine.

 

Hey MiddleAgeCrisis......it's your gamble, but have the electrical charging system load tested to make sure everything's going to hold up for ya. A new battery may be a good place to start if it's old.

Call some shops for prices on rebuilding your original unit, if in any doubt concerning it being trustworthy...... while out away from home and on the road. Remember that a tow is over $100 without AAA.

 

Thanks. Battery is brand spanking new (Costco free under warranty), my power needs wrt stereos and such are modest. The key, I think, is if it will hold the charge overnight. Maybe I have a short somewhere but previously the battery was showing 12.5v on idle so I suspected the alternator. I'll look around for a rebuilder in the meantime, I think that is the way to go. $100 may buy some extra peace of mind.

 

Perhaps ya have a scavenger short somewhere which is draining the battery.

There's ways to check for this, may have to search a bit or have a pro evaluate this issue. If indeed there's a short or power leak somewhere, replacing the alternator or battery won't help the matter until the condition is resolved. May be a sticky switch or relay ? Check the connections and grounds.

 

Started up like a dream this morning. Either the connection was bad (lots of rust and corrosion in the bolt areas) or there was something in the alternator that was removed by the compressed air (dust in the brush contact?). Anyhow, she runs like a dream now. I'll scout for a rebuilder so I have a source for repair in case it fails again. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

Ya may be able to purchase a rebuild kit for the alternator and replace the brushes yourself. Also, clean up the wiring connections or better yet.......buy new wires and battery clamps. The main ground wire to the tranny often goes bad at the bottom where it bolts on. Check places like Rockauto or a NAPA for the kit.