To start my car is a 02 TL-S with 146,6xx miles, and as far as I know still the original Tranny

A few months ago those 3 light would go on and off randomly, well one day they were on I drove to an autoparts store to have it scanned. The reading came back "4th clutch fluid pressure switch" so I went to the Acura dealer bought a new one and bought some tranny fluid and changed that as well. All was well for about a month then all 3 lights came back on but they are staying on this time. I bring it into the parts store again and have scan it; it comes back with no code but all three lights were on the whole time it was scanning. Well I use the scanner and clear any codes with it, I turn on the ignition and the lights came on and turned off seconds later as normal, I start the car and after it ran for a few seconds the light came on again. I drove it home(20 miles at 60mph) check the trans fluid and it's a little low, probably 1/16" below the bottom dot; when I did this I also disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes, then when I reconnected it the light did the same as when I cleared the ECU with the OBD-II scanner.

So my question is there any type of transmission fluid level that could be causing the lights to go on or what could be causing all the lights that scan with no code?

I will also add that yesterday the left rear brake started to squeal, I don't know if there are sensors that tell you your brake pads are worn like on VW's

BTW- because of these lights and not knowing what's casing them I haven't been driving the car much, maybe 400 miles since the lights initially came on.

 

start with this correct trans level ck,, as indicated level changes with temps:

drive car 15 minutes on freeway-
get off and quickly park on safe level ground
turn engine OFF- trans in PARK, p brake on

remove trans dipstick - wipe clean- insert fully- remove and read

BETWEEN the upper 2 dots is what you want at that fluid temp
not at either limit,, but in between~

 

use honda atf from the honda dealer or import parts stores

it doesnt like Dextron3 at all!!! do not add any to honda atf

 

yes the pads have a low level warning tab/squeeler tab
ck them out asap,,normal disc brakes on the outside,,
park brake assembly inside rear rotor!

tip: reset the ECU by pulling the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute
thats the secret ecu backup power and forces a master reset,,
and doesnt make you input the radio code afterwards!

 

you may have a wheel speed sensor issue too, if the trans is shifting fine
might need special scanner for ABS problems

BUT low on atf is odd, leaking is normally a terminal issue
Can you find where its happening?

to tell if trans is acura replaced unit- look for blue painted bolt heads on trans
also ck for external oil jet kit installed in the normal filler hole, that an older case at least

 

I bought 4 quarts of honda ATF when I changed my tranny fluid and the trans pressure switch, I did the 3x3 and must have drained more than just 3 quarts between the drain bolt and the pressure switch.

I know that the pads have squeelers because the left rear started squeeling the other day, but on newer VW's there is actually a sensor that triggers a light in the guage cluster that tells you the pads are worn. I talked to a friend of mine at King Motorsports and he told me that I might have a problem with the abs sensor on the left rear because the rear brakes were done when I bought the car 30k miles ago. I am pretty sure the left rear caliper is seized which would cause pre-mature wear of the pad and could possibly put enough dust on the wheel speed sensor.

I've tried resetting the ECU by removing both battery terminals for 10minutes becuase one time I tried pulling the clock fuse and it didn't reset the ECU; but even doing that the lights came back on with a few seconds of the motor idling.

 

it will drain about 3.3-3.4 qts trans fluid if you are patient
Make sure level is correct with 15 minute freeway drive and ck method:
between the upper dots is correct level at that trans fluid temp
with engine OFF in park

removing the clock fuse for a minute does reset the ecu-
its the master `secret backup power` to it
same effect as removing batt neg cable - loss of power forces reset and relearn-self test
If the lights came right back on its because there is a problem

no electric sensor pad to break thru and replace with brake pad job for us
rear calipers known to sieze- pretty easy to tell by vastly more wear on one pad than the other-remove caliper to inspect
Every flush the brake fluid?
ck wheel speed sensors and sensor ring for any prob

 

whats the parts store get for codes from the car?

 

You need a special OBD reader that can read ABS codes. Your first code was probably a machine that could only read CEL and that code stored in the cpu. I'm almost certain you have a wheel speed sensor also known as ABS sensor issues.

Cheap fix!!

 

need to find out if that rear caliper is working or not-

 

We do not have sensors to tell when pads are low on the TL. Removing the clock backup fuse WILL reset the ECU and its codes. If you are having a ABS code pulling that will not reset it. They arent stored in the ECU. You need a special scanner for ABS and SRS codes. There is a possibility you have a wheel speed sensor failing.

 

I have the same problem with the lights being constantly on. I had an issue with the passenger front wheel speed sensor, so I replaced it. Lights are still remaining on for some reason. Can't figure it out, and haven't put too much into trying to figure it out.

 

To be honest with you, I would flush and change over and use Redline Synthetic ATF. My tranny has shifted a lot better since dumping the Honda ATF. Redline holds up and protects your tranny a lot better and withstands a higher operating temperature. I have noticed little or no discoloration at all in the fluid. Of coarse, this is only my opinion and also my mechanic and speed shop too. It wasn't an extra sale on their part because I buy my own parts and have them install what I can't install myself. I have heard too many horror stories about OEM parts and have worked at the assembly plants. I only buy high quality aftermarket parts.

 

the statement of no dex3 is direct from honda- the 3x3 manual drain `flush` was in the owner book in case you ever added any dex3,,you had to do a 3x3 to get rid of it!
Stories on azine of shops used it and minutes or miles later the trans wont shift.

until recent testing by `I hate cars` and several others from gen2 and 3-
who are now using Redline racing atf, or plain jane type F fluid, with improved shifting smoothness--
We didnt have much choice but honda--
note honda now has a new atf and discontinued the stuff we are supposed to use...

so I change my statement to- ck on what fluid is best for you- just dont use dextron3

 

Doesn't Castrol also make fluid for use in Hondas? Has anybody tried it?

 

seems I read of its use here recently--tried search?
at this point,, anything BUT dex3 or honda seems to be the trick!!

the new honda atf has a change to the friction modifiers iirc
`I hate cars` has detailed info in his post

 

I turned my Acura 2002 RL on couple a day ago and the VSA light came on, went off and when I drove off, it came back on. i stopped and turned the car off. It did the same thing again.

i followed the instructions in the manual to reset, but it did not help.

Any ideas what might cause the VSA light to stay on.

 

Try posting in the RL section. This is 2nd gen. TL forum. Good luck.

 

with all 3 those lights coming on, most likely a wheel speed sensor issue

 

it can be anything--need to get to a parts store where they will scan the codes for free

Once you have them - repost in RL section with the codes and
also google the codes yourself-
remember they are clues- not diagnosis

 

The triangle with ! in it also on constant on my 05 RL. Resetting ECU does not clear it. I have my own scanner and it with not reset the light. My scanner says the car has an 84-1 Sensor Logic Failure. As soon as I start to drive the VSA light comes on. I have a post in the 2nd gen RL section but no one has responded. Anyone in here know what Sensor the 84-1 code refers to? there are no other codes showing.

As for the AFS light, my scanner doesn't read those codes byut does the SRS and ABS. I took the car in and The AFS module needs to be replaced.

 

those year rl's are notorious for the rear wheels speed sensor...they usually seize inside the hub and yes they are a bitch....lol

 

my last 03 tls had this issue.... ended up being the ABS pump.....

 

Well it's been a long time since I've been on because I recently moved.

But I finally repaired the rear caliper, the top slide pin was a little bit stiff so my buddy from King came over and we fixed it; what we did was put a drill bit in the hole and spun it by hand to remove any of the rust/corrosion, then we put a bunch of urea(spelling?) grease in. But the problem was really that moisture got inside the boot and rusted the piston, so we ended up rebuilding the caliper.

I then took my car to the local Acura dealer and had them scan for codes; they told me the ABS module is bad and the part is on back order. So I am now on the hunt for a new AMS module

^^is that the same part as the ABS module? They said it probably wasnt getting enough pressure and it's not uncommon for it to happen.


My TL has ~147k FWIW

 

Does anyone know of a way to diagnose what is exactly wrong with the ABS system? I really don't want to start throwing parts at it hoping I get it right eventually...