2002 TL-S: Try to start, battery just died/everything shuts off randomly
#1
2002 TL-S: Try to start, battery just died/everything shuts off randomly
So I have a 2002 3.2TL Type-S with 138k miles on it.
Twice lately when I have gone to start the car I've heard a click and it just DIES before turning over. Totally dead, no lights anywhere. Like there's not even a battery in the car.
I opened the hood and prodded around, looked at the battery, looked at the fuse box, jiggled random stuff and it came back, started right away. I prodded things with the multimeter to verify continuity and couldn't find any bad fuse.
Today it did this again, and I almost thought I would have to have it towed. It seemed dead, then I jiggled random shit under the hood, the lights came on, and tried I to start and it clicked and died. The third time it started. I can't see any reason to my jiggling...under hood fuse box, battery, it's random what I jiggle to make it start.
It's going in the shop Monday, but any idea what this could be?
Also another issue: the immobilized often doesn't read the key. Sometimes I have to take the key out and put it back in eight times to get it to run. Sometimes it will only run if I remote start it (I've removed the remote start and the symptoms persist).
Basically I'd like to get this to go without spending a fortune at the mechanic on a witch hunt.
The immobilizer problem has occurred since I bought the car in December 2013 but the not starting/battery dying is a brand new issue.
Thank you!
Also if anyone has any recommendations on a good mechanic in Tulsa, OK that would be amazing.
Twice lately when I have gone to start the car I've heard a click and it just DIES before turning over. Totally dead, no lights anywhere. Like there's not even a battery in the car.
I opened the hood and prodded around, looked at the battery, looked at the fuse box, jiggled random stuff and it came back, started right away. I prodded things with the multimeter to verify continuity and couldn't find any bad fuse.
Today it did this again, and I almost thought I would have to have it towed. It seemed dead, then I jiggled random shit under the hood, the lights came on, and tried I to start and it clicked and died. The third time it started. I can't see any reason to my jiggling...under hood fuse box, battery, it's random what I jiggle to make it start.
It's going in the shop Monday, but any idea what this could be?
Also another issue: the immobilized often doesn't read the key. Sometimes I have to take the key out and put it back in eight times to get it to run. Sometimes it will only run if I remote start it (I've removed the remote start and the symptoms persist).
Basically I'd like to get this to go without spending a fortune at the mechanic on a witch hunt.
The immobilizer problem has occurred since I bought the car in December 2013 but the not starting/battery dying is a brand new issue.
Thank you!
Also if anyone has any recommendations on a good mechanic in Tulsa, OK that would be amazing.
#2
look in Regions link at top of page for local area ziner activities- see who is active in your town
has the battery been ckd at a parts store- tested for load recovery and voltage?
is batt more than 3 years old? that's average time till battery death these days
could be solder connection prob under relay box in engine compartment (see diy section)
All connections fixed where remote system was cut in?
has the battery been ckd at a parts store- tested for load recovery and voltage?
is batt more than 3 years old? that's average time till battery death these days
could be solder connection prob under relay box in engine compartment (see diy section)
All connections fixed where remote system was cut in?
#3
earlier years had prob with the ignition switch itself- the electrical part on back side of it wears out- grunges up and whatever but melting and general disarray ensue
reliable contact is not happening!
Wiggle the ign key- anything?
carry more than 3 keys on keyring?
reliable contact is not happening!
Wiggle the ign key- anything?
carry more than 3 keys on keyring?
#4
I thought the ignition switch issues were only the 99-00 models? Two keys, a key fob, a sub stick. Not too heavy.
Sometimes the remote start won't fire because of the immobilizer not disabling. Yes everything was put together right when the RS was done. No line breaks, just heavy gauge T connectors brought in (wires never cut).
Sometimes the remote start won't fire because of the immobilizer not disabling. Yes everything was put together right when the RS was done. No line breaks, just heavy gauge T connectors brought in (wires never cut).
#5
![Talking](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
Twice lately when I have gone to start the car I've heard a click and it just DIES before turning over. Totally dead, no lights anywhere. Like there's not even a battery in the car.
I opened the hood and prodded around, looked and jiggled random stuff and it came back, started right away. Today it did this again, and I almost thought I would have to have it towed. It seemed dead, then I jiggled random shit under the hood, the lights came on, and tried I to start and it clicked and died. The third time it started. I can't see any reason to my jiggling...under hood fuse box, battery, it's random what I jiggle to make it start.
Also another issue: the immobilized often doesn't read the key. Sometimes I have to take the key out and put it back in eight times to get it to run. The immobilizer problem has occurred since I bought the car in December 2013 but the not starting/battery dying is a brand new issue.
I opened the hood and prodded around, looked and jiggled random stuff and it came back, started right away. Today it did this again, and I almost thought I would have to have it towed. It seemed dead, then I jiggled random shit under the hood, the lights came on, and tried I to start and it clicked and died. The third time it started. I can't see any reason to my jiggling...under hood fuse box, battery, it's random what I jiggle to make it start.
Also another issue: the immobilized often doesn't read the key. Sometimes I have to take the key out and put it back in eight times to get it to run. The immobilizer problem has occurred since I bought the car in December 2013 but the not starting/battery dying is a brand new issue.
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
Any recent underhood repairs ? Ya could try bypassing the electrical starting circuit by jumpering power directly to the starter, but only if ya know what you're doing !!!
Last edited by 3.2TLc; 09-28-2014 at 09:14 AM.
#6
the ig switch recall applied only to 99s, probs continued but not as bad,
prob not detected immediately,,,process of figuring out prob and changing parts design etc
that all takes a while
Note many 99s go thru 3-5 more switches in the cars life,,so much for OE quality
look at the GM ign switch problems--now covering over a decade of years and more than half the car models it sells!
Still think only a specific year acura had the issue? or the bad power lead to cabin fan?
its worth looking at when considering freaky shut off and start issue
prob not detected immediately,,,process of figuring out prob and changing parts design etc
that all takes a while
Note many 99s go thru 3-5 more switches in the cars life,,so much for OE quality
look at the GM ign switch problems--now covering over a decade of years and more than half the car models it sells!
Still think only a specific year acura had the issue? or the bad power lead to cabin fan?
its worth looking at when considering freaky shut off and start issue
#7
reading again it really sounds like a bad ground wire OR bad ignition switch OR ignition relay (see other threads post regarding solder probs under relay box)- as whacking random parts restores power!
a click then nothing anywhere- that's a major power interruption
besides the main ground wire at batt, there is a radio ground in trunk and several body/frame to engine wire braid grounds under hood
a click then nothing anywhere- that's a major power interruption
besides the main ground wire at batt, there is a radio ground in trunk and several body/frame to engine wire braid grounds under hood
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