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This thing kind of stutters and putters on rarely but yesterday I started it again after driving a 3 hours and it had immediate misfires and steady blinking CEL and TCS light on it sounded like it was going to stall but I got home. There's a shaking sound behind the rear wheel in the muffler which is moving more violently than before along with the whole exhaust system under the car. Codes p0301-6 and p0300 and p1399 all random misfires
Diag. Computer said replace ignition coil replace spark plugs clean EGR replace EGR control valve replace ignition coil connector pack switch replace spark plug tube seals replace valve cover gasket. I cleaned out the egr and new spark plugs 2 weeks ago. I also just got it smogged because of the cali laws. It must have to do with the shaking tubes connected to the mufflers any tips
The misfire usually points to one failing coil for the spark plugs..
Test them like this:
1.- Start the Car
2.- D/C a Coil see the engine reaction, Does it Vibrate Violently?
YES: Coil is GOOD test the next one
NO: Coil is BAD!
Welcome to the forum, since you are new I will go over the standard issues and point you to our diy section, 5th item down main gen2 title list, New Official 2nd gen DIY
That will walk you thru everything you can do at home to the TL
what plugs did you use? NGK about $8 each? if some 2 buck chuck specials start with installing the right plugs, thats a critical problem in the TL
Yes the multi cyl misfires are usually one, maybe 2 bad coils- simple to test and determine which ones, new are around 50 dollars
To elaborate on testing note above: remove power lead connector at coil and observe any change in rpm, it may not be much or it may be a lot, plug connector back in and proceed to next cylinder
Change is what you are looking for = coil is working
No change in rpm = found one!
It ran good enough to pass CA smog? then acted up? or failed for the listed reasons?
or someone did run the codes, cellphone program??
and that's what they come out as? Do you have the actual code # that came up?
While parts stores in Ca are not allowed to pull codes for you, some will loan you the tool, or aamco will do it for you free. 100-150 bucks at harbor freight tools gets your own!
EGR system needs to be cleaned every 75kmiles, When you did yours- was it per our DIY with removal of intake manifold from the engine and taken to the workbench?
Using 3 cans of carb cleaner and wire coat hanger poking thru the full length of the internal passage? as well as each of the cylinder port openings?
Anything less is fooling yourself- if done on car and slight poking = not the right job
the egr valve is a rare failure, usually dirty operating arm- lube with wd or silicone spray or deep creep (seafoam aerosol)
It gets removed to clean the passage system that starts in 2 holes under the egr valve!
any idle surge problem? did you clean the IACV on bottom of throttle body while it was apart?
do you know what seafoam is? 1 can in just under half tank of gas, do that twice with a tank of gas between them, will remove the carbon and crud leftovers occurring due to misfire
I got those Readings from the $200 logistics computer that I gave me those codes p0301 P0302 all the way to P0306 then I get p0300 and P1399. It looks like thier all misfiring. When I cleaned out the EGR I just took off that plate on the top and cleaned the gasket and cleaned the plate on top. Ur saing thats not enough any videos on that? Idk about clogged exhaust. There does seem to be a rattling in the redonator not sure if its banging on the car or something is in it ill check that out when i look at it
So the thing passed a smog 150 miles before I got the CEL came on and started doing this also the car has been in Minnesota its whole existence. Until 5 months ago. Where do I look for rusted out pipes on the bottom.
Here's stuff on p0300
OBD II P0300
Fault Code Definition
Random, Multiple Misfire Detected
Symptoms
Check Engine Light flashing
Rough running, hesitation, and/or jerking when accelerating
In most cases, there are no adverse conditions noticed by the driver
In some cases, there may be performance problems, such as dying at stop signs or rough idling, hesitation, misfires or lack of power (especially during acceleration), and a decrease in fuel economy
Common Problems That Trigger the P0300
Worn out spark plugs, ignition wires, coil(s), distributor cap and rotor (when applicable)
Incorrect ignition timing
Vacuum leak(s)
Low or weak fuel pressureImproperly functioning EGR system
Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
Defective Throttle Position Sensor
Mechanical engine problems (i.e.—low compression, leaking head gasket(s), or valve problems
Common Misdiagnoses
HCs (Hydrocarbons): Unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, affect breathing, and contribute to smog
CO (Carbon Monoxide): Partially burned fuel that is an odorless and deadly poisonous gas
NOX (Oxides of Nitrogen): One of the two ingredients that, when exposed to sunlight, cause smog
Want to Learn More?
Generally, the term "misfire" refers to an incomplete combustion process inside the cylinder. When this becomes severe enough, the driver will feel a jerking enough, the driver will feel a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. Often the owner will bring the vehicle into a shop complaining that the timing is "off." This is partially correct because a misfire does involve a mis-timed combustion event. However, the base ignition timing being out of adjustment is only one reason for a misfire to occur—and not the most likely.
P0301 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
When the code P0300 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Misfire Monitor has detected more than a 2 percent variance in RPM between the firing of any two (or more) cylinders in the firing order. The Misfire Monitor constantly checks the rotational speed of the Crankshaft by counting the pulses of the Crankshaft Sensor. The Monitor wants to see a smooth increase or decrease in engine RPM.
If there are jerky and sudden changes in the speed output of the Crankshaft Sensor, the Misfire Monitor begins to count the RPM increase (or lack thereof) contributed by each cylinder. If it varies beyond 2 percent, the Monitor will set a P0300 code and illuminate the Check Engine Light. If there is more than a 10 percent variance, the Check Engine Light will blink or pulse in a steady manner to indicate that a harmful Catalytic Converter misfire is occurring.
When diagnosing a P0300 code, it is important to record the freeze frame information and then duplicate the code setting conditions with a test drive. Pay close attention to the engine load, throttle position, RPM, and road speed because a P0300 (which is a specific misfire) can sometimes be difficult to detect. If the Engine System has a Misfire Counter for specific cylinders on the Scan Tool Data Stream, pay very close attention to the cylinders(s) named in the misfire code(s).
If there is not a Cylinder Misfire Counter, then you might have to switch components—such as coils, spark plugs, etc.—in order to isolate the root cause of the misfire. It is also important to note and record any other codes because the engine may be misfiring due to the failure or malfunction of another system or component.
Common Causes for an Engine Misfire and Code P0300
Ignition Misfire
An Ignition System problem is one of the most common reasons for an engine to misfire. As the spark plugs, ignition cables, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil wear over time, their ability to transfer the needed spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture inside the combustion chambers becomes compromised. In the early stages, the spark will only be weaker and the actual misfire will be subtle. As the ignition components continue to wear, the misfire will intensify and the combustion process
That's from http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0300
that's nice,,, we are acurazine- the place with real owners answers based on solving real problems with our own cars and others. The member base here is far and wide in knowledge
Are you the person who posted another thread on the egr? posted pics of 1 port poked and circles drawn around bolts? have you looked at our diy yet?
You absolutely must remove the intake manifold from the engine to even access the egr passage and ports. Service the TB at the same time, the egr valve gets removed to access ports under it- so lube the arm
if you cant find the diy on here, ck online for Eric the car guy vids
a clogged egr system will make it run really bad
A failing coil or 2, never all 6 go at once! the ecu doesn't know exactly whats wrong so it throws multiple codes, many of them false and misleading,,,you can even get TCS warnings etc and be stupid engine stuff
At your miles it may need a front O2 sensor= for good measure
You can remove the intake resonator box in left fenderwell, still passes Ca smog no sweat~ they don't even look or want to know
Only care about whats from the top of the air filter box thru the end of the exhaust visually, and whats coming out the tailpipe all match what the spec sheet says
Even then- non stock parts with CARB sticker are fine, things like thermo spacers go unnoticed and do not effect smog so not a concern of the shop
follow our suggestions and your car will be fine - remove intake and clean properly and fully, 3-4 cans carb cleaner needed, deep creep takes less and works great so consider expense vs time, a wire coat hanger- no kidding- thats a homemade tool to scrap the inside of a long small passage free of carbon/crud residue buildup- exhaust gasses go thru there at all times except idle and full throttle = it gets dirty fast!
Buy a coil or 2, aftermarket or dealer about same price ~50$, and the right spark plugs if not the correct 8 dollar each NGK Iridium or Platinum,,denso is ok but no others
once the egr is cleaned, we can go thru the spark plug brand issue and testing coils with engine running to find the bad one
remove spark plug to inspect burn pattern if needed
No I didnt post those pics, I'll see when I do a full egr clean out. And I did bang on the resonator where its rattling and making some noise and there is some stuff in there small stuff in the right resonator but I didn't see it in there with a light. Very helpful, is this acuras new a.i. mechanic team?
I just cleaned out the egr under the exhaust manifold and it still has the same issue. So the flashing CEL comes on ten seconds or so after I start up, it does the same exact thing each time. It does not smooth out when I drive it like the heat soaked engines seem to be having. But I did drive for 3 hours in stop go traffic in hot weather in socal then some 85 max mph for 20 mins then a 30 min grocery shopping break then this happens. So it may have to do with that
are you clearing the ECU by removing the CLOCK fuse?
what codes are coming up now?
low flow muffler is a major issue, excess back-pressure will mess you up
Go to a local owner small shop, not a big corp store- muffler shop,
Ours is a fairly common unit and easy to replace
They should ck your cat at the same time
Going back to your original post- the muffler was a definite problem!!
What spark plugs did you install- NGK Iridium or NGK Platinum at $8 EACH
Wrong plug brand will fail quickly
Your mpg suck now too? any O2 sensor codes? how many miles on the car?
You say egr under exhaust manifold
Did you remove the intake manifold from the engine-- and take it to a place to use the 3 cans carb cleaner and wire coat hanger poked thru the length of the manifold,
= inside the egr passage that ends at the 2 holes under the egr valve?
removed throttle body from manifold and serviced it while there?
There have been recent attempts to clean the egr on the car- those don't work
for the spark plugs I did not use NGK iridium or platinum I just used champion double platinum spark plugs. I check them looks fine to my newb eyes. There's some brown stuff on the top of it
when I took off the intake manifold alright I cleaned the little hole it only goes a few inches down there are you saying that I have to stick something all the way down there like a wire hanger like how deep does it go?
get those POS plugs out of there right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and solve half your misfire and unburnt fuel issue!
NGK Iridium, Iridium IX or NGK Platinum, worth every penny of the 8 bucks each
IN 8 years on here I do not recall anyone used champions! bosch, e3 and many others,,sure and all sucked n a few weeks to a few months- they were not designed for coil on plug ignition - its very high power and needs special plugs Who on earth sold you champions for a Japanese car -=when the sticker underhood says NGK or Denso only,,and gives the numbers! Classic example of `the parts book says they fit= based on threads and depth only`
the ngks are a little cheaper and last longer then the denso- go figure- but that's what we- with millions of miles between us- found works- the factory plug
Next:
once you remove the intake manifold from the engine- a passage runs inside the length of the manifold, from 2 holes under the egr valve all the way to opposite end of the manifold, plus several ports to be cleaned, one per cylinder. Usually requires 3-4 cans of carb cleaner to soak and poke your way thru years of buildup.
It takes a wire coat hanger = unbend it/straighten- to poke thru the manifold- its loooooooong!! the entire length of manifold from left to right as you look at it--- from in front of car,,,get it?
or buy the special tool that looks like a coat hanger with barbed wire attached to it
This is why we have been adamant about clarifying what you did! the details are critucal
You have plugged the egr rather than opened it up!
Try Again!! consult the diy on here, has pics and info, torque specs etc
Do use a torque wrench on the manifold bolts, the several that hold the manifold to the engine, not just the cover over the whole thing you have been removing
Will need to disconnect throttle cables to remove TB with manifold and work on it too
Its easy and all in the diy
New NGK sparkplugs, get a TB to manifold gasket, and a gasket for the COVER to the IACV -its on bottom of TB,,idle air control (rod in chamber)- always needs cleaning
so Ive been sticking a wire hanger down on the far right which is supposed to be the EGR port I could only get it about 6 inches down there however i tried bending it and what not but it didn't fit into the bend. The carb cleaner is not going through the egr hole when I spray it with the red tube in there. it comes out the edges. I could not find pics or video saying they tried sticking a hanger down the hole just small stuff like a screwdriver. The hole I'm reffering to is the small oblong hole next to the 6 bigger holes.
So because the carb clnr is just pouring out the sides doesn't that mean that it's clogged ? im so sorry I'm am mechanically declined
you are supposed to be cleaning the manifold- and a little on the base- engine side
Where is intake manifold pic? are you poking at things in the above pic?
at what would be the driver side end of intake manifold- the part you removed and took to the workbench= in the large open area- in there is opening to the passageway where coat hanger goes
At the other end of manifold, is the egr valve- remove it and see 2 holes exposed- where the exhaust gas passes thru on the way to manifold- expect clogging there too
reminder- the gasket for the top cover can be installed up side down! ooops!
make sure to match it up to the cover not the manifold. or a critical port will be plugged by gasket and you have to take it apart,,,again All the openings on the gasket have a match on the cover!
06-09-2015, 08:38 PM
