Climate Control Self Diagnosis
Climate Control Self Diagnosis
I was in traffic driving stop-n-go, and suddenly my AC stopped working. i mean the fan was running, but no cold air. after clearing traffic, when i started driving normal, the cool air started again.
I checked the manual, and did the self diagnosis, and it came up with the error "I" and "K".
Doing some research here, and i found this link about the air mix control motor.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...repair-848488/
so i removed the motor, which is a difficult part as there is very little space there. And to remove the motor, i had to unplug the 3 connectors near that motor.
I tested the motor, everything was fine, put it back, put back the connectors, and did the diagnosis test again. but this time there is nothing displayed on the screen.
1. So my question is, does the display only light up, if there is any error? or it should light up "88" and "blank" if there is no error? can someone confirm this?
because i am suspected if i damaged one of the 100 wires from that 3 connectors.
2. And secondly, why did my AC stopped working, and only hot air blowing from the vent, when the car was idle/in traffic?
I checked the manual, and did the self diagnosis, and it came up with the error "I" and "K".
Doing some research here, and i found this link about the air mix control motor.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...repair-848488/
so i removed the motor, which is a difficult part as there is very little space there. And to remove the motor, i had to unplug the 3 connectors near that motor.
I tested the motor, everything was fine, put it back, put back the connectors, and did the diagnosis test again. but this time there is nothing displayed on the screen.
1. So my question is, does the display only light up, if there is any error? or it should light up "88" and "blank" if there is no error? can someone confirm this?
because i am suspected if i damaged one of the 100 wires from that 3 connectors.
2. And secondly, why did my AC stopped working, and only hot air blowing from the vent, when the car was idle/in traffic?
how was the engine temp? both engine fans kept running? or pass side went off with ac off?
the main power connector for the cabin fan -just under front edge of glovebox- is a known problem- likes to let wires come loose inside -rust- plastic meltage and short occurs etc
You can solid wire in a new section to remove the connector or 25 bucks gets a new one you still have to splice in
the main power connector for the cabin fan -just under front edge of glovebox- is a known problem- likes to let wires come loose inside -rust- plastic meltage and short occurs etc
You can solid wire in a new section to remove the connector or 25 bucks gets a new one you still have to splice in
When there are no Errors on the A/C the Display will show nothing.
The 3 connectors you are referring to are the connectors to the ECU... YUP THAT IS YOUR ECU. If you damaged a connector believe me! a beautiful OBDII code would be waiting for you.
The 3 connectors you are referring to are the connectors to the ECU... YUP THAT IS YOUR ECU. If you damaged a connector believe me! a beautiful OBDII code would be waiting for you.
how was the engine temp? both engine fans kept running? or pass side went off with ac off?
the main power connector for the cabin fan -just under front edge of glovebox- is a known problem- likes to let wires come loose inside -rust- plastic meltage and short occurs etc
You can solid wire in a new section to remove the connector or 25 bucks gets a new one you still have to splice in
the main power connector for the cabin fan -just under front edge of glovebox- is a known problem- likes to let wires come loose inside -rust- plastic meltage and short occurs etc
You can solid wire in a new section to remove the connector or 25 bucks gets a new one you still have to splice in
I have already replaced the blower wire as per the TSB (i dont remember the number)
What about the display, if no display is everything ok? or should i be seeing the "88" and "blank"?
I remember doing a code scan after that, and nothing showed up, so i an assuming everything is ok.
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no codes = ok
now get to work on the engine overheat issue, 80% on the gauge is real problem!!
any movement above its normal 1-2 lines below half is reason to inspect the fans and rad situations
Have to open the hood to observe fan operation
now get to work on the engine overheat issue, 80% on the gauge is real problem!!
any movement above its normal 1-2 lines below half is reason to inspect the fans and rad situations
Have to open the hood to observe fan operation
never see that before.
AC work fine now, all the time.
Temperature is half way all the time.
PS. once i was refueling with my car running, not a good idea (it was really hot outside, and my family was sitting inside), but the AC stopped again. fan was running. engine temp normal.
As soon as i drive off, the cold air started. Could it be related to something else?
you got lucky refueling with the engine running
there is no good reason for the temp to ever go up like that- unless a piece of cardboard is blocking the entire front end and fans not working,,not even 1 time,, and another where the ac cut off = 2 strange events would have me under the hood right now!!
Wife would be all over that problem- where is MY AC?!!?!?!?!?
go thru the system cking rad cap, seal on cap , rubber line to res, the res caps hose inside is attached, fluid levels are correct etc
I would suspect the thermostat as it controls temp the most and easy to replace,
Could stick closed too long and raise temp
use only Honda dealer part for that!
How old is the water pump- miles- years- and the coolant? color strong or weak looking?
there is no good reason for the temp to ever go up like that- unless a piece of cardboard is blocking the entire front end and fans not working,,not even 1 time,, and another where the ac cut off = 2 strange events would have me under the hood right now!!
Wife would be all over that problem- where is MY AC?!!?!?!?!?
go thru the system cking rad cap, seal on cap , rubber line to res, the res caps hose inside is attached, fluid levels are correct etc
I would suspect the thermostat as it controls temp the most and easy to replace,
Could stick closed too long and raise temp
use only Honda dealer part for that!
How old is the water pump- miles- years- and the coolant? color strong or weak looking?
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jun 16, 2015 at 08:17 PM.
But that just happened once.
never see that before.
AC work fine now, all the time.
Temperature is half way all the time.
PS. once i was refueling with my car running, not a good idea (it was really hot outside, and my family was sitting inside), but the AC stopped again. fan was running. engine temp normal.
As soon as i drive off, the cold air started. Could it be related to something else?
never see that before.
AC work fine now, all the time.
Temperature is half way all the time.
PS. once i was refueling with my car running, not a good idea (it was really hot outside, and my family was sitting inside), but the AC stopped again. fan was running. engine temp normal.
As soon as i drive off, the cold air started. Could it be related to something else?
That sounds like Low Level Freon... But then again could also mean over-pressure.
you got lucky refueling with the engine running
there is no good reason for the temp to ever go up like that- unless a piece of cardboard is blocking the entire front end and fans not working,,not even 1 time,, and another where the ac cut off = 2 strange events would have me under the hood right now!!
Wife would be all over that problem- where is MY AC?!!?!?!?!?
go thru the system cking rad cap, seal on cap , rubber line to res, the res caps hose inside is attached, fluid levels are correct etc
I would suspect the thermostat as it controls temp the most and easy to replace,
Could stick closed too long and raise temp
use only Honda dealer part for that!
How old is the water pump- miles- years- and the coolant? color strong or weak looking?
there is no good reason for the temp to ever go up like that- unless a piece of cardboard is blocking the entire front end and fans not working,,not even 1 time,, and another where the ac cut off = 2 strange events would have me under the hood right now!!
Wife would be all over that problem- where is MY AC?!!?!?!?!?
go thru the system cking rad cap, seal on cap , rubber line to res, the res caps hose inside is attached, fluid levels are correct etc
I would suspect the thermostat as it controls temp the most and easy to replace,
Could stick closed too long and raise temp
use only Honda dealer part for that!
How old is the water pump- miles- years- and the coolant? color strong or weak looking?
the day the temp was high, the outside temp was high in the high 90's. and i was almost crawling in traffic, one feet at a time, for an hour. could that justify it?
or else i could suspect the thermostat.
after that i have drained and replace with new coolant (coolant flush). from radiator and from engine.
As i said it was a one off event for the temperature and twice for ac shut down.
car 265000 miles, bought used, dont know much history, new coolant after the issue.
i am not sure about the location of the evaporator.
is it inside the car? next to pollen filters? in that case how can i put water there?
It would not surprise me to learn there is a temp related cutoff on the ac
No one reports using AC when eng temp is that high- at that point they have switched to heat to add some cold coolant from the heater core = to try and lower temp quickly
Sticking thermostat is my best guess on this one, when will it stick closed for too long...
How does the flow look in rad with cap removed- clogging of rad internally??
No one reports using AC when eng temp is that high- at that point they have switched to heat to add some cold coolant from the heater core = to try and lower temp quickly
Sticking thermostat is my best guess on this one, when will it stick closed for too long...
How does the flow look in rad with cap removed- clogging of rad internally??
It would not surprise me to learn there is a temp related cutoff on the ac
No one reports using AC when eng temp is that high- at that point they have switched to heat to add some cold coolant from the heater core = to try and lower temp quickly
Sticking thermostat is my best guess on this one, when will it stick closed for too long...
How does the flow look in rad with cap removed- clogging of rad internally??
No one reports using AC when eng temp is that high- at that point they have switched to heat to add some cold coolant from the heater core = to try and lower temp quickly
Sticking thermostat is my best guess on this one, when will it stick closed for too long...
How does the flow look in rad with cap removed- clogging of rad internally??
i was busy dealing with the traffic, hot day, ac stopped working, and thats when i realized the engine temp was high.
Somehow got to the side. shut off the engine to let it cool down (under a hot sun) and then drove again.
dont know how to check the flow in the rad. please elaborate.
Last edited by JIGS; Jun 17, 2015 at 01:29 PM.
found that in the manual. but i can do that if i can park somewhere and open all that stuff (cant do that on a planned trip). will all the water not get on the floor mats?
I'm Sorry.. Seems I mixed that up.. You must spray water INTO the CONDENSER SIDE! (Small Radiator in front of main Engine Radiator) that's the one doing the heat exchange. If that gets too hot the system will shut itself down.. Once the car is moving the condenser cools down making the A/C work again... You can cool it down by spraying water on it with the car standing still.
I'm Sorry.. Seems I mixed that up.. You must spray water INTO the CONDENSER SIDE! (Small Radiator in front of main Engine Radiator) that's the one doing the heat exchange. If that gets too hot the system will shut itself down.. Once the car is moving the condenser cools down making the A/C work again... You can cool it down by spraying water on it with the car standing still.
Can you confirm, when the engine gets hot, the driver side fan starts, and not he passenger side?
the passenger side is for the AC condenser, and only started when you start the AC?
Both fans should turn on when the engine gets hot... The TL uses both fans to cool down the A/F with variable speeds.
When you Start your A/C BOTH fans will turn on regardless even if the engine is not running. You can test them like this:
1.- Put your key on POSITION II (Dash Light up) but don't start the car
2.- Turn on your A/C on any position of the cold side
3.- Both Fans will run
If one fan is not running then is most likely death or you have a wire malfunction.
When you Start your A/C BOTH fans will turn on regardless even if the engine is not running. You can test them like this:
1.- Put your key on POSITION II (Dash Light up) but don't start the car
2.- Turn on your A/C on any position of the cold side
3.- Both Fans will run
If one fan is not running then is most likely death or you have a wire malfunction.
Both fans should turn on when the engine gets hot... The TL uses both fans to cool down the A/F with variable speeds.
When you Start your A/C BOTH fans will turn on regardless even if the engine is not running. You can test them like this:
1.- Put your key on POSITION II (Dash Light up) but don't start the car
2.- Turn on your A/C on any position of the cold side
3.- Both Fans will run
If one fan is not running then is most likely death or you have a wire malfunction.
When you Start your A/C BOTH fans will turn on regardless even if the engine is not running. You can test them like this:
1.- Put your key on POSITION II (Dash Light up) but don't start the car
2.- Turn on your A/C on any position of the cold side
3.- Both Fans will run
If one fan is not running then is most likely death or you have a wire malfunction.
will also test the fan with engine running (no AC). should be the same i guess.
Bingo....
Radiator fan not running (intermittent)...
So i started the AC, and only the condenser fan running. turned it by hand, shook it a little bit, shook the wires, but nothing.
Check the fuse. OK
removed the connector, connect a multi-meter, turned one the AC, and there was 12V.
So that means it was the fan.
I connected the other end of the connector with the battery, and fan did not turn.
I took a hammer and slowly tapped the motor, and it started running....
connected everything back, turned on the AC, and it did not work... shook the motor with the started working..
but i noticed that the fan was very slow, compared to the condenser fan.....
so now every time i start the AC, the fan would not turn, and as soon as a shake it just a bit, it would turn, but very slowly.
So then i decided to hammer it a little hard... and then the fan turned faster, same as the condenser fan...
now everytime i turn on the AC, both the fans come on, and at fast...
.
.
now i am confused... should i replace it or leave it....
Radiator fan not running (intermittent)...
So i started the AC, and only the condenser fan running. turned it by hand, shook it a little bit, shook the wires, but nothing.
Check the fuse. OK
removed the connector, connect a multi-meter, turned one the AC, and there was 12V.
So that means it was the fan.
I connected the other end of the connector with the battery, and fan did not turn.
I took a hammer and slowly tapped the motor, and it started running....
connected everything back, turned on the AC, and it did not work... shook the motor with the started working..
but i noticed that the fan was very slow, compared to the condenser fan.....
so now every time i start the AC, the fan would not turn, and as soon as a shake it just a bit, it would turn, but very slowly.
So then i decided to hammer it a little hard... and then the fan turned faster, same as the condenser fan...
now everytime i turn on the AC, both the fans come on, and at fast...
.
.
now i am confused... should i replace it or leave it....
replace the fan motor itself- easy diy, local parts store or auto dismantler for one
The hammer is not a fix, its a a finder~
note the 2 fans have very different blades - if you buy a used unit with blade on it.
The hammer is not a fix, its a a finder~
note the 2 fans have very different blades - if you buy a used unit with blade on it.
^ Yah! the main engine fan pulls heck lots of air compared to the Condenser Fan. Glad you found out the fan wasn't working! your protecting your ENGINE by repairing it.
Have your Freon Level checkd I believe its just an issue with Overfilled System.
Have your Freon Level checkd I believe its just an issue with Overfilled System.
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