Please help fix this problem so I can go lower
06-28-2011, 12:39 PM
#1
Please help fix this problem so I can go lower
Here's the thing, I had problems with my wheels rubbing my coils till the outside wall of the coils and the inside lip of the rim was like gone. So i got spacers and I'm running the rear 18x9 +37 offset slammed. But there is a problem, I'm wondering what to do with the piece of steel, I think frame rubbing off my tires. Like I have pieces of rubber everywhere.
Out look
Area I'm referring too.
Some more pictures
I went to my local welding shop, but they said I need to go to a body shop cuz they have a special tool to cut that material off. I'm wondering if a torch or a heat gun is hot enough to lighten it up or saw it off, or how would you guys go about moving or removing this part so I can ride with more than myself without rubbing my tires away whenever I accelerate or make a turn. Well I wanna go lower too.
Out look
Area I'm referring too.
Some more pictures
I went to my local welding shop, but they said I need to go to a body shop cuz they have a special tool to cut that material off. I'm wondering if a torch or a heat gun is hot enough to lighten it up or saw it off, or how would you guys go about moving or removing this part so I can ride with more than myself without rubbing my tires away whenever I accelerate or make a turn. Well I wanna go lower too.
06-28-2011, 01:56 PM
#5
Rice Patrol
you should post bigger pics so we can look at it better.
do you have a jigsaw or a power sander? It looks like it isn't too much to trim...you could probably get by if you sanded it down some more so it was jagged that would also give you a couple more mm of wiggle room.
and sorry for your bumper...if that's the only clip that's broken you can fix that with epoxy and a zip tie. (behind the bumper obviously)
do you have a jigsaw or a power sander? It looks like it isn't too much to trim...you could probably get by if you sanded it down some more so it was jagged that would also give you a couple more mm of wiggle room.
and sorry for your bumper...if that's the only clip that's broken you can fix that with epoxy and a zip tie. (behind the bumper obviously)
06-28-2011, 02:04 PM
#6
wouldn't a simple $10 grinder from harbor freight or a dremel be able to cut away enough of it to create the clearance?
also, since you ran a spacer to not rub the coils...I'm assuming you'd be able to run a little more negative camber to clear things?!
also, since you ran a spacer to not rub the coils...I'm assuming you'd be able to run a little more negative camber to clear things?!
06-28-2011, 03:12 PM
#7
just go with a smaller tire size, of u need new tires right now...
if you dont, i ended up cutting a bit and now i dont rub even with someone in the back seat.
I only cut the top portion not all the way down, and remember not cut to much or else your going to have a small gap/hole where the two metal pieces join together.
if you dont, i ended up cutting a bit and now i dont rub even with someone in the back seat.
I only cut the top portion not all the way down, and remember not cut to much or else your going to have a small gap/hole where the two metal pieces join together.
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06-28-2011, 05:54 PM
#11
I don't like 215, its too small. Lol. So I should cut off like an inch wide starting from where it sticks out? I'm referring to the part above where the bumper tabs used to bolt on too before I trimmed off the bumper. So what are the diff methods I could use to cut it.
06-28-2011, 06:06 PM
#12
i had the same problem in the rear, i didnt have to relocate the bumper tab/bolt area. i just trimmed around it. then when i went lower the tire started to rub against the metal part and i just trimmed the metal part.
my tires are 225/40 series with 8.5" wheels. im also cambered
my tires are 225/40 series with 8.5" wheels. im also cambered
06-29-2011, 08:44 AM
#16
Rice Patrol
you can grind it down, all that excess can be removed, just do it slowly and in increments that way you don't take to much. use a sander as well to smooth it all out so you don't have any jagged edges (I'd be scared if my car sang 
) so if you hit a bump or something and rub you'll be all good. and obviously mind the gap between the two metal pieces.
good luck
) so if you hit a bump or something and rub you'll be all good. and obviously mind the gap between the two metal pieces. good luck
06-29-2011, 10:24 AM
#17
2002 WDP 3.2
I thought that was work you had already done to try and clearance it... Yikes!
Just take the wheel off and like everyone said, get a grinder from harbor and their 10pk of grinder wheels/cutoff wheels/flap disks and grind it down close with the agressive grinding disk, then put the flap disk on to round edges and get a nice arc similar to your tire.
And like everyone said dont go too far to where those two metal halves come apart. Not sure if it is spot welded there or just that assembly adhesive goop so just go slow.
Price ya gotta pay for aggressive wheels... I hope someday I run into this same problem. Good luck
Just take the wheel off and like everyone said, get a grinder from harbor and their 10pk of grinder wheels/cutoff wheels/flap disks and grind it down close with the agressive grinding disk, then put the flap disk on to round edges and get a nice arc similar to your tire.
And like everyone said dont go too far to where those two metal halves come apart. Not sure if it is spot welded there or just that assembly adhesive goop so just go slow.
Price ya gotta pay for aggressive wheels... I hope someday I run into this same problem. Good luck
06-29-2011, 11:35 AM
#19
Rice Patrol
a grinder? It's like a jigsaw...
on my phone at the moment but if you've never used one you should definitely look into buying some scrape wood or metal to practice on first.
You DO NOT want to fuck up when you're working on the car, better to do it on something scrap
on my phone at the moment but if you've never used one you should definitely look into buying some scrape wood or metal to practice on first.
You DO NOT want to fuck up when you're working on the car, better to do it on something scrap
06-29-2011, 01:05 PM
#20
Jigsaw looks like I can really fck up with. Would a grinder like this work http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...6&blockType=G6
06-29-2011, 02:36 PM
#23
2002 WDP 3.2
Get this.... http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...der-91223.html
And these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...ent-47571.html
They are cheaper obviously but for $25, you cant beat the grinder. They come with spare brushes for the motor as well. Ive used them for years without going through a set of brushes. and when it takes a crap on you, throw it away.
And these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...ent-47571.html
They are cheaper obviously but for $25, you cant beat the grinder. They come with spare brushes for the motor as well. Ive used them for years without going through a set of brushes. and when it takes a crap on you, throw it away.
06-29-2011, 11:17 PM
#25
2002 WDP 3.2
Any will do. Id say 36 is gonna be a little aggressive for what you are doing but thats why Id get the harbor freight setup I linked above, or if you wanna spend more if somewhere is closer for tools, Id go with about a 60 grit and just use it lightly to get the general shape, and then DEFINITELY get a flap disk in the 80-120 range for cleaning up any rough edges. The flap disks leave a nice soft edge and you can fine tune your cut with them.
06-30-2011, 04:58 PM
#27
Instructor
I had the exact same issue you were having when I went lower and ran a more aggresive wheel set up. I used a dremel and it took me about 20 minutes to cut about an inch and a half back, grind it down smooth, and slightly roll the metal part back with a pair of pliers. I went from rubbing with just me in the car on every bump, dip, turn, etc. to being able to drive in a circle at 40mph and hit huge dips at 80mph (which previously shredded the shit out of my tires) to not rubbing at all with 2-3 people in my car. Just my 
Hope it helps, and good luck bro.
Hope it helps, and good luck bro.
07-01-2011, 12:40 AM
#28
I had the exact same issue you were having when I went lower and ran a more aggresive wheel set up. I used a dremel and it took me about 20 minutes to cut about an inch and a half back, grind it down smooth, and slightly roll the metal part back with a pair of pliers. I went from rubbing with just me in the car on every bump, dip, turn, etc. to being able to drive in a circle at 40mph and hit huge dips at 80mph (which previously shredded the shit out of my tires) to not rubbing at all with 2-3 people in my car. Just my Hope it helps, and good luck bro.
Hope it helps, and good luck bro.
07-05-2011, 10:34 AM
#29
Instructor
07-06-2011, 11:39 AM
#32
Oh thanks! I got it cut off, and went a bit lower in the back. I think hammering it in, you wont get as much room tho. Like after I got it cut off and went even lower, the gap from the metal to my wheel was even further than when I raised my car 3cm. My front driver side lowering perch is jammed. I wanna go lower but I cant. :[
Last edited by aznccnsh; 07-06-2011 at 11:43 AM. Reason: more stuff
and if I go lower in the front, itll be nonono. Gotta get spacers first to get me to +35 offset so I can see how much I'll need to drop it.
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