I was thinking of upgrading to an aem v2 Cai but I don't know benificial it would be vs the current stock intake. What are some exact figures on the gains of the v2 after upgrading from the stock? I own a 2003 acura tl (not s). Thanks in advance.

 

And how good is the stock intake?

 

The V2 and Comptech icebox are the best intakes available for our cars.

 

that is a great intake - I used to have one and the engine sound when flooring it was GREAT!

1) any power gains will only be had very high in the RPM range 4500RPM or more (only when you are flooring it basically). you can google to find some dyno charts but it wont be much unless you plan on doing other engine mods - like headers. the stock intake is more than plenty for a stock car
2) the filter on a CAI is pretty low behind the front bumper so you must be very carefull if you ever have to drive in any deeper water

what you can do that is much cheaper and still gives you a better engine sound is
- remove the intake resonator (diy on this site)
- add a K&N filter

this will give you some more air flow and less restriction and no risk of getting water on the filter like with a true CAI.
but good luck and have fun modding!

 

so if it only kicks in around 4000 Rpms, what's the best upgrade for before the engine hits the 4000? What are the best products and where to find them?

 

a supercharger...just the way our engines work there is not a whole lot you can do to improve the power in the low RPM range. But if you want to get a CAI and can get the V2 at a good price, go for it. the sound itself is worth it.
look around on this site there is enough information for you to take your car apart and put it back together and everything in between!

 

Get the V2, i have one on my 2g tl right now with everything else stock..it gives it a nice lil throaty sound to it and noticable gains...just dont drive in water....btw anyone know if they sell a bypass for the v2 to prevent hydrolock?

 

get it i have one it sounds alot better and will give u like 12 hp

 

is that 12hp at the wheels- measured by dyno?

best way to get power at lower rpm is install a lightweight crankshaft pulley-
reduce the end weight from 10 pounds to under 2!! that allows the engine to rev much faster = reach vtec rpm engagement quicker = where the intake valve timing and duration profile are altered to increase airflow in and real power is made.
(see wiki for diagram of vtec action)

Bomz brand is fine at the cheap end-- plain jane type $30
Excelerate has the top of the line ones with laser etched writing on them and top quality unit $200

there are 2 types- `underdrive` which turns ps and ac a little slower at idle but is fine for most cars
Or the standard size in lightweight- only Excelerate has those- for cars with over 600watt sound system

the stock alt wont perform enough at idle with reduced turning speed -to provide enough in certain situations for those cars, so a standard size is used
As if you crank it that loud at stoplights~

 

I agree with ou sig,,
the K&N air filter in stock location airbox, with res box removal= the awesome diy CAI
50 bucks and you are done, plus never buy engine air filter again.
In 2 years, buy the 15$ cleaning kit- that services it 5 times.
Every 10-20 or 50kmiles (you decide based on dirt in your area) clean and reoil it-
cuts down on environmental waste too by not replacing filters

99-01s can cut the driver side `fake fog light` open-- for even better `outside air` intake

using the stock airbox gets actual colder air from the fender innerwell-
while a metal tube cai gets heated from the engine area and raises IAT/ inlet air temp, which reduces its density. thicker colder air is better for combustion

there is no danger of driving thru water and flooding the filter this way like a normal cai
the car would be stuck in water above the top of the wheels at that point!
hydrolock not your biggest problem right then! can you swim?

 

Yeah I did this mod a few years ago, took off the resonator and added a K&N stock replacement. But since then I get this gnarley humming noise. What could that be from?

 

I have the stock sound system. so i guess the underdrive would suit me well, but is the standard better performance wise? I might want to get it just incase.

 

no the standard size pulley is only for big amp loads = over 600watt draw

everyone else uses the `underdrive` for its performance advantage!
Excelerate had the stock size made special for us, or there would be none

do a little internet research for why it all works~

 

blackura- did you grab the plastic Y pipe along with the resonator box--it fits into bottem of air filter box,,,remove it
You removed the main res box inside the fender right?
not the smaller one on the intake snorkel to TB? (some years)

what rpm do you get the sound? an rpm range?
car year?

 

1) make sure everything is tight on the air box
2) do you have the small resonator up close to the engine on the bottom of the air intake tube? if so removing this and capping with something will most likely give you the hummmmmmm noise you are talking about. this is the sole reason I got rid of my V2

 

He has the TL-S which only has the single resonator below the air filter box. The reason it hums is because he removed the resonator, which is in place to keep the intake quiet.

 

Get a Ebay intake and put a better filter on it unless you want to pay $300 for a sticker. All intakes are pretty much the same with the exception of the Icebox. Paying high dollar for a brand name intake is a waste of cash. Those 3A filters you find at Pep boys beat AEM, Injen, etc in flow and filtration in tests.

 

Also, if you keep the stock intake theres not much reason to go with K&N besides the fact that you can clean it. It doesn't filter as well as the stock filter and the difference in flow is an advantage for possibly a 700hp Buick. If you're going to sacrifice filtration you may as well get a power gain from it.

 

Ahhhh NO. To all of this.

 

1)Why? OEM>K&N, It's been proven over and over and over and over and....... K&N may be the better of the aftermarket filters, but its still an inferior filter with a bunch of bullshit hype behind it.

2) A pipe is a pipe, you really think the dual chamber AEM scam is worth the money? Look up the dyno proof and filter comparisons rather then falling victim to the market. If you must go with an AEM filter, buy a $60 OBX intake and put a $50 AEM filter on it.

 

Here's your beloved AEM vs A $30 3A filter.

http://www.australianauto.com.au/HTM...hoot%20Out.pdf

 

Here's a Ebay Intake dyno

 

Upgrade pulley, buy headers, take of intake res and drop in k&n filter, and get a throttle body and manifold spacer kit unless you buy a new exhaust system or change the aspiration you aren't going to gain much more power than what those upgrades will do. And as 01tl4tl will tell you a little seafoam goes a long way.

 

As for the other discussion I would never put anything from ebay in my engine. Thats why those shitty headers from ssautochrome are sitting in my garage. Because Ebay isn't where you should buy engine upgrades if I had 300 dollars lying around I would most definitely buy v2 but its not worth it to me because I own a luxury sedan not a lambo and I'm just waiting for my transmission to go bad so I can finally buy an sti.

 

Exactly, you have a luxury sedan. You're not dealing with a Honda 4cyl tuned for performance. This Isn't an H series motor where you buy a DC header for $400 and end up losing power. How much R&D do you think actually goes behind making an intake for a Acura TL....They're made to be nice, quiet sedans tuned for comfort which is why a $150 header can make 20whp. Why didn't you buy the more expensive DC headers that love to break welds, flex pipes and mounting brackets? Bottom line is that any product can be a piece of shit no matter what the price, but the people who don't like wasting money like to do research on the products that we purchase, while the rest pay a exhaust shop to undo 4 bolts to install an axleback exhaust for $60 for piece of mind. I'll spend my extra $200 on something more worthwhile. The only $300 intake I would purchase is an Icebox..a V2 is a piece of aluminum with a AEM sticker on it thats made right next to half of the "EBY" intakes...lol. I love how Ebay has become a brand all of a sudden.

 

2002 It is when I'm idling it just goes hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm and its hollow. I took off the resonator box on the bottom, so yeah it sounds like I did it as your prescribing. even another forum member was over today and he did the same mod and didn't get this sound. So I dunno.

 

Like I said in the above post, another member was over, he had done the same mod and didn't have that noise.

 

The s will hum if you remove the res. The p will not if you remove just the one res. If you try to take of the other res it will hum so loud its awful!

 

That makes sense cause he had the tlp, Thanks!

 

yay! mine is the best.....overall. wish i would have seen that article before i wasted so much time looking for one

 

Dude: thanks for providing actual data - which is what the first posting actually asked for. I love this forum, but like most others the DIY instructions are most valuable.
The "what's best?" answers are mostly based on opinion, and sometimes even a failure to understand HS physics and basic engineering. If something doesn't sound right, it probably isn't. Thanks again.
BTW, I went with the simple mod on this one. Essentially zero cost, and gains as you stated and backed with data.

 

Where? Where is this actual data? He showed NOTHING stating that OEM is better than K&N. Id did show that the K&N did in fact have the best filtration though

He also showed NO factual data that the cheap knockoff intakes from E-Bay produce the same hp as the V2 or icebox.

 

And if I were to go with a intake it would be custom made or the custom made P2R intake. But most want name brand.

 

First and foremost, considering they are the same price, I'm not sure why anyone would choose AEM over Comptech. The Comptech shows essentially the same gains as an AEM on the Dyno, and will prevent hydrolock while likely being of better build quality. It will also remain cooler than an aluminum intake. I know there are so many people that say don't be fooled by the horror stories, but until it happens to you or someone you know then you probably will continue to think it is more difficult then it actually is. Your intake does not have to be completely submerged in water...a simple deep puddle that often builds up on the side of the road is enough to do it if the circumstances are right, especially for someone like me who has cut the 3 spaces out of the fake foglight cover. Secondly..........http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

 

Also, J32a.com has much more dyno info than this site. Most of the dyno charts here are in the CL section, but if anyone wants more performance related info on certain parts for the J32, check out J32A.com.....mostly J swapped civics, etc.

 

Sorry, it takes more than a "simple deep puddle" to do it. (ive been running CAIs longer than you have been driving, and yes that is my car doing that) It takes stupidity to hydrolock a motor like STOPPING in deep water or driving much deeper than the intake to do it. There are FAR more success stories than horror stories that scare people and they shoudnt. Use common sense and you will be fine. I drove for near 16 straight hours in the rain, most of which was down pour in my lowered civic si and my filter remained bone dry (checked at a few gas stops)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvqc6wcng_g

As for why anyone would buy the AEM over the comptech. It was simple. Many did NOT want the quietness of the Comptech and wanted the louder intake sound. Many didnt want to spend the money on the comptech as the (no v2 at the time) aem was half the price. In the end, Which intake to buy is like a Chevy vs Ford fight. Everyone has their preference and both are just as good.

Some get wrapped up in the little details too much like they Fram filters. Some wont touch them from what they "read" Well i have used them for over a million miles of driving my vehicles and guess what. Never a issue.

 

Try going through that puddle at a slower speed with a lowered car and see what happens. Nobody wants to drive in the rain but shit happens. I suppose you would tell this guy that he should have used his Grand Theft Auto skills to ramp the car over the puddle, or reverse in the middle of traffic, or perhaps park his car in the middle of the road and walk? It's not about common sense it's about circumstance.


I think I hydrolocked my engine
permalink
Last Monday I got in the middle of the heavy rainfall. Was taking a right turn ramp where I underestimated a puddle in front of me. Couldn't go around it due to side curbs and couldn't stop because of cars behind me. I thought I was gonna make it when the car died right in the center of the puddle.

Tried to start the engine a few times and the starter burned out. Looks like I'm screwed since I'm not even sure if my insurance would cover it. Now I'm waiting for a verdict from the dealer hoping for a miracle.

 

Im not saying it should stop anyone from buying an intake in general, I just think its enough of a reason to purchase the Comptech over the AEM. The Comptech is unlike any other intake for the TL, while AEM bought out DC Sports and used their crappy dual chamber design with minor differences. Weapon R uses this design as well, and in the end its just a piece of aluminum with a pipe rivited inside that doesn't do a damn thing. If everyone is so concerned with sound and gains rather then everyday driveability, then they should buy a velocity stack and call it a day.

 

I have driven thru water deeper than that. You have to use your brain. Go to slow you suck water, to fast you cause other issues, to forge water that is deeper you need just the right speed. Also if you are that unsure of how deep it is DONT drive thru it. Park the car and wait, back up, DONT drive thru it. Pretty simple if you ask me. You DONT have to drive thru it.

 

So your suggestion is to stop traffic because the modifications done to your vehicle can possibly destroy it? A slammed car with a CAI is all good, I've had a couple, but I'm sure you know how fun it is to drive daily avoiding puddles, potholes, speed bumps, road construction, 100 heat with a/c removed etc. A practical part that adds performance is available for our TL so why not take advantage if you're set on spending $300?


How many people run the $30 Option Racing crank pulley? I know I would run it over a $200 UR pulley and I've owned both OBX and UR and it was the same thing with a different stamp. Actually, I'll order the $20 Vision Motorworks pulley instead and spend that extra $180 on some window tint
but I suppose you'll always face the group that claims it throw off the balance of an internally balanced engine.