I did searchs and read quite a few and they didn't answer my questions. I was thinking about getting a wet kit or dry kit. 1. What is the difference between wet kit and dry kit first off? 2. How much to install? 3. What brands are good? 4. Are they complete kits? 4. How hard to install are they and how long? 5. When does the boost kick in for a 99 TL? 6. Does it hurts your engine at all? 7. How long does a tank last? 8. What is HP gain to the wheels? 9. How much does a good kit cost? Sorry for all the questions.

 

i can answer a few they really arent that great on your engine it just basically sprays in and burns gas faster increasing more power, it's about a 50 HP gain once button is hit, you can set it to run as long as you want at the push of a button or for it to kick in at a certain RPM. Install probalby takes a couple hours but i would do it professionaly. A complete kit costs around 500-600 dollars i have no clue about filling the tank JUST BE CAREFUL!!!! My friend blew his intake manifold up and as a result his whole car burnt to pieces!

 

With that many questions, you really should do your own research and learn more about nitrous before getting it. But here are some answers:

1. Wet kit is both nitrous mixed in with fuel before entering the throttle body, unless you go with direct port, which will have individual nozzle with fuel/nitrous going directly into the intake manifold. Dry is basically nitrous only.

2. It depends on what kind of kit you want and how you want it to install.

3. NOS, NEX.

4. You can buy complete kits or you can buy parts separately.

5. If you don't know this answer, you really should read up on this. Nitrous kicks in either when you push the button to activate it or you can install a throttle switch which will make nitrous come on only at WOT. Ideally, you would only want nitrous to kick in at WOT.

6. Depends on how much HP you want.

7. See #6.

8. See #6.

9. Depends on your application. Go check out NOS and NEX's websites.

 

dont forget about ZEX!

 

1. What is the difference between wet kit and dry kit first off?

Dry kit injects only nitrous into the intake, and is dependent on the factory PCM to adjust the air-to-fuel ratio.

Wet kit premixes fuel and nitrous then injects it into the intake. However, before the fuel reaches the combustion chamber, it could turn back into its liquid stage and pool up in the intake. A spark at the wrong time in the wrong place will blow your intake to bits and pieces.

2. How much to install?

Call your local shops. Probably about 100-200.

3. What brands are good?

NOS, ZEX, Viper, etc.

4. Are they complete kits?

You can buy a complete kit which will come with everything you need; but there are extra parts you can get if you wanted to such a bottle warmer, blow-down tube (required if running at the track), pressure gauge, etc.

5. How hard to install are they and how long?

Depends on your skill leves.

5. When does the boost kick in for a 99 TL?

What boost? The TL engine is naturall aspirated. If you're talking about when you can feel the extra power from the nitrous, then it is almost instantaneous as soon as it is delivered into the engine.

6. Does it hurts your engine at all?

Depends on how big of a shot you're running. A 35-shot wouldn't hurt the engine, but if you ran a 100-shot frequently, then it will.

7. How long does a tank last?

Depends on how often you use it. If I recall correctly, a 50-shot on a 10-pound tank will last about 35 uses.

8. What is HP gain to the wheels?

Shots are measured by the gains at wheels. Therefore, a 35-shot would net a 35-hp increase at the wheels.

9. How much does a good kit cost?

Expect to pay about 600-700 dollars, plus extras if you want them.

 

a had a pretty good idea about some of my questions, but wanted more clarity. As far as engine reliability goes. If I were to get a 50shot and had it set at 5000rpm's and only hit WOT a few times a day would this degrade my internals and IM a lot? I figure if I use it sparingly just for some fun every once in a while it wouldn't do much or any damage. Am I wrong? I saw a ZEX wet kit for like 600.00 and figured that would be a lot of fun. Can't an SC be just as dangerous to your engine?

 

sudden boost < constant boost

Especially with a dry nitrous kit, the PCM will notice the leaning AFR and add more fuel to compensate. But during that time, the engine will be running lean. This is why idiots blow their cars; they run ridiculous amount of nitrous and expect things to be okay. Too lean = kaboom.

With a supercharger, the supplied FPR is capable of pumping in more fuel, and because it is a more constant form of forced induction, the engine will learn over time.

 

It's not unusual to have to swap in a fuel pump with additional capacity.

Adding NOS to a car with a known weak transmission doesn't seem like the brightest idea. As PA said, NOS is not like a SC. With NOS, it comes in all at once.

 

so you guys are against nitrous? I understand the principle of it, but any forced induction will create more internal pressue especially in the IM and the fuel components. I am beginning to think it's a bad idea all together.

 

Its not really a bad idea...its just more of a riskier and cheaper way of making power. There are many more variables involved with nitrous. If you were to get nitrous, I would go with the direct port route and a conservative 50shot. And using it a few times a day isn't too smart with nitrous 1). Its not like an SC where boost is always constant, the power is forced in suddenly and may be detrimental and 2). nitrous isn't cheap so using it a few times a day may get a little expensive.

Nitrous should be used in race scenarios only. As long as everything is installed properly, you take all necessary precautions, and you're responsible with the usage, everything should be fine.

 

yeah dont end up like my friend with your car on fire on the side of the highway

 

nitrous in general is bad for ur engine. U would use it only for racing, not everyday, and def. not a couple times a day. If u really want a car that can go that fast, I'd save up for a little bit and get an STI or something quick. Nitrous doesnt suit the TL. So unless u plan on keeping ur TL for a long time, i wouldn get any.

 

FI is much better and lasts longer

 

Personally my suggestion is if you can afford to do it get a supercharger or run a custom turbo setup. I had nitrous on my car for about a year and used about 7-10 bottles worth of nitrous however I was going back and forth from a 75 to 100 shot. It a nice mod and the purge kit is cool if you have one. I had the zex kit and never had any problems with the car and/or transmission. I actually ended up selling it to a friend because I'm moving towards some new mods for the TL. Install wise, it will depend on who works on your car which will determine the price. The directions on the zex kit doesn't seem that difficult. Anyway, good luck if you decide to go that route. Also keep in mind, if you have a warranty left on your car take your car for service, I'm sure it would be noted that you had that on your car. Just a thought.

 

I personally think Nitrious is a risky idea. I was told you have to upgrade your catback exaust like to at least 2 1/2"inches(people go even 3"inches) and better if you use a Test Pipe instead of the Cataylac Converter. Also I was told our engine for the 99TL is already a high compression engine, that means more likely to blow than the Type S. I'd go the safe route and Get A DVD player for the car.

 

no noe of thats needed and tehy type s has higher than the TL-P for compression

 

no nitrous for me, thanks for all your responses. SC is too expensive or me right now. I'll just focus on the UR crank pulley and OE thermobloc spacers for now.

 

Man, half of the people on this thread dont know wat there talking about. Nitrous is not BADD for ur engine if you know wat the hell your doing!

I had it on my 95 Accord for a year and half, until I sold her. I had no problems what so ever. It was only a 60shot also. If you do it right u'll be fine. If you abuse it you won't be. First off, get it installed professionally from a good place if you don't know how to put it in. I didn't kno how to put it in but I studied it for about 2 months and took me about 2 weeks to put it in because I was doing things step by step. Now I could do it in a day. Installation can mess up your motor if they dont do things right and ghetto rigged things. Second thing is YOU!! You control the nitrous so you have the control of abusing the use of it or not. Basically its like taking medicine, Advil recommends you to take 1 pill every 6 hrs or whatever, If you take 5 pills at a time, what do you think is going to hapenn to you? Prolly end up in the hospital. So if you use too much nitrous or have a higher shot then whats recommended, you car will be going to the mechanic shop rather then the hospital.
Hope this helps you out.

If I were you and really want to do it, I would study up on it before buying it.

Remeber im speaking from experience, don't listen to half of these people saying nitrous is bad nitrous is bad!!, Watching fast and furious too many times doesn't mean you know everything about nitrous.

It's the user that's bad!

And for the record, nitrous is Non-flammable, so your bottle will not blow up your car! (fast and furious ).

 

And the transmission that's weak.

 

thanks for the input blackacc, I appreciate it. That's actually more of what I figured, if you abuse it your car will suffer if you don't it shouldn't harm it. I will do some extensive research before I get into nitrous, first I need the UR crank pulley and OE thermbloc spacers, then maybe it's time for the nitrous. BTW I didn't know nitrous wasn't flammable, does it expand the gas molecules to make them burn faster?

 

Might want to Google on 'nitrous oxide'. N20 in the presence of heat turns into N2 and O2. So, it adds additional oxygen which allows more fuel to be burned hence more power.

 

True, the tank could still blow up from the pressure.

Did you do a compression test before you sold the car? Did you have an AFR gauge to monitor the ratio? What is your claim based on when you say "no problems whatsoever"? Because, um, my buddy always said no problem, no problem, then one day he drove up in a pickup truck because he cracked the block.

 

True that the tank can blow from pressure, but i had a safety pressure valve on the bottle that would release pressure if it exceeded a certain pressure, only $25.

A friend of mine checked the compression on it about 6months before I sold my car, he said it was fine, plus I did test with the spark plugs a bunch of times, and everything was fine, I was running justtt a little bit rich with the nitrous which is good. Plus i took off the nitrous about 2 months before I sold my car and car was running fine.

 

 

I was told the TL-P compression ratio was higher

 

That's a negative

 

tlp compression ratio is 9.8:1, tls compression ratio is 10.3:1, means tls has higher compression ratio which is biggest reason it has 35hp more than tlp, also cylinder sleeves, slightly larger exhaust piping and dual stage intake manifold.

 

Well worded. Thanks. Now I'm learning.

 

Do we have to run colder plugs? I'm reading that we need to change the plugs to 2 level cooler plugs. I'm using Denso Iridium Plugs. Is that ok?

 

If i remember correctly its 2 steps colder then stock per 50 shot. I used NGK step 2 colder on my accord and had no problem (was running a 60shot). I don't know if NGK's are iridium , if they are then those spark plugs are fine, all i know is a platinum plugs is a big NO NO . Good luck.