hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

so my rotors have warped and I''ve new rotors waiting to be put on.
the thing is my pads are not in bad shape, I'd say 70-75% left

can I use them for a while before changing?
or would the warped rotors have already done damage

01tl4tl

check them for flat and level even wear
I personally would not take the chance of pad damage- they may have hot spots from the rotor contact being uneven and create a shake on their own
Have you removed the pads and done a visual of the material side? any cracks?
Pads are cheap
If you diy and dont mind doing it twice~ take a chance if you want

what is 70 percent? the min thickness of the material should be 2 mm- the cooling slot in the center ends at 2 so you can look and go uhoh~
When pads get low they dont shed heat as well and dont brake very well

01tl4tl

most pads are 7-8 mm thickness of pad material when brand new out of the box

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

i will be doing it myself. i haven't taken them out yet, so i haven't been able to inspect for cracks

but in terms of thickness, i'd say 5-6mm left in front, 6-7 mm in back (maybe even more)

my logic is i'm going to be taking it easy on them for the break in period, so it may give them a chance to (gradually) flatten themselves, if they're uneven.

01tl4tl

actually during break in you are getting the hills and valleys of the rotor and pads blending together
You want to do medium pressure stops with normal street pads for the first 500
avoid ABS or extreme brake use
Special performance pads have special instructions to get grip immedialty

fronts do 70 percent of the braking force- so they last half as long as the rears
If the rotors are actually warped from overheat and improper cooling (the standard acura prob)- you need pads- bite the bullet and get them now

01tl4tl

how many miles on the car- the rotors and the pads?
make sure to read the threads on brake job and flushing the fluid before working on the rest of it

bowlgers

i wouldnt it may be fine at first but then the pad it self will thump then u go to put new pads on and the rotors are fried again pads are chaep do it right the first time cause you will be pissed when u got get new parts and have to take all apart again

Gfaze

You may want to take some semi-course sandpaper and sand the smooth surface on the pads. This way you are able to bed them into the new rotors again without the risk of squealing. Make sure you sand across the width of the pad and not along the length of the pad. I did this for a friend who needed new rotors but had nearly new pads on the car. Money was tight so he wanted to see if he could still use them. They've been working fine so far, no squeaks, shaking, etc.

01tl4tl

I would NOT sand any modern pads-
while they dont contain asbestos anymore- you dont want to know what they replaced it with!
The micro resins and metal shards that can be displaced and airborne by sanding-- may cause serious harm down the road--to you!!

Pads like Hawk specifically state NOT to sand the pads

If you have new bitchen rotors with side slots it may be posible to hard bed the pads and the rotors will scape them flat--but again---thats a risk

01tl4tl

I am all for sanding rotors to remove glaze or old pad material when installing new pads

Thats totally different than sanding pads

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

yea i have drilled/slotted rotors coming
looks like opinions are mixed on this...
i guess it'll all come down to visual inspection when i finally take them off

thanks for the responses

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

just curious though, don't rotors essentially sand the pad when they make contact, so wouldn't sanding do as much harm being on the side of the road

or is it being really close to the dust?

01tl4tl

the slots do a micro-microscopic scrape,,and not while just cruising- only when you apply the brakes-and better if the pads are warmed fully-
the slots real job is to allow the pads outgassing (during hard use) - a place to escape

not sanding!!!

totally different dispersion of material, and yes- direct lung intake was what I meant.

Good techs wash brake dust off everything with fluid and collect in pan for disposal- wear good latex/rubber gloves, and on some jobs- a dust mask of good quality
Your life is no joke, and its amazing us older guys have survived- long term exposure to used oil and shop chemicals without protection
Ah the good ol days~

you went with slotted, there are going to be certain pads that work better than others
rotora and racingbrake are prime examples- their in-house designed pads are far better on their rotors than other aftermarket brands
They can match the rotor mettalurgy to the pad material for max stopping and lifespan
Proper bedding enhances that

GO BUY the new right PADS