NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx



EAO44 is the oversized filter, same as SDF44 for those TL/CL owners who use them.

I just did my oil change and I'm out of filters and oil so I'll probably order a few in a few months. Anyone try them yet? Looks like the SDF44 is no longer available.

samkws

so they last for like 2 yrs right?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

I change my oil and filter every 7500 miles.

optomos

Thats impressive. Right now im using the SDF44, but I need to change my oil soon so I think I will try it out.

optomos

Well I just found out im not using the SDF44 but the SDF36. While talking to the Amsoil dealer he said the SDF44/AEO44 has a different gasket size than what is called for.
So my question before ordering this filter is will it fit without leaking?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

I've been using the SDF44 for many years now, along with other members and I've never heard of any leakage.

SodaLuvr

One member on Bobistheoilguy has purchased a EaO-15 and is in the process of getting some pictures up. The filter appears to be of a Donaldson design, but doesn't have that much media, 179sq ft, IIRC. But don't get carried away, they may be using a different approach here.

As for the oversized filter, I'd instead stick with stock sized, SDF 20 instead of using an oversize. In addition, I'd use the less expensive, still excellent, Wix Oil Filters that you can order from Filter1.com over the Amsoil filters at more frequent change intervals. Run Amsoil "ASL" 5w-30 at a 1-yr/15K drain interval with a filter change and top-off at 6mo/7500 miles. Do an oil analysis ($18) after the first drain to verify the drain interval. This setup should save you more $$$ over the XL 5w-20 you're using at 7500 mi. intervals.

The Wix 51334 is the stock sized filter and can be had from filter1 at $4.22 a piece. ASL 5w-30 can be had for $6/qt shipped, by the case.

Calculations:
XL 5w-20
$5*5=$25+$10=$35
$35*4=$140 for 30,000 miles

ASL 5w-30
$6*6+$5*2=$46
$46*2=$92
$18 for oil analysis + $92=$110

$110 vs. $140= about a 20% savings.

MikePA

$30 savings over 30,000 miles which is about 3 years of driving for most people or $10/year.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

More money than that falls out of my pocket each year.

fsttyms1

thats less tha 1 year driving for me

MikePA

Now, now, I did say most people. You ain't 'most' people.

optomos

I just bought the EAO44 & 6 quarts of Series 3000 5w-30 + shipping for 76 bucks. That should last me a whole year or longer because I put less then 15k a year on my car. Not bad at all for me IMO.

phipark

What's the difference between the ALS and XL besides price/weight?

MikePA

Here are links to ASL (not ALS) and XLM. There are full product descriptions at each link.

phipark

So, which one is better? That stuff is Greek to me.

MikePA

Just buy Mobil1 at your local auto parts store.

SodaLuvr

ASL=PAO basestock for better oxidation resistance (not as important as you may think), mainly better long drain performance and higher HT/HS for possibly better wear protection in high-stress conditions.
XLM=GrpIII basestock, but has shown excellent results in 5w-20 applications. (better than M1 0w/5w-20) If long drains past 10K are desired, this wouldn't be your best choice though.

The verdict: Unless you're running or plan to run very long drains past 10K, I'd use the XLM 5w-20 and change it every 7500 miles or longer when verified by oil analysis, due to the excellent results I've seen. Amsoil recommends their 0w-30 for super long drains, but I think the 5w-30 ASL can provide equally as good performance with only a slight fuel economy loss.

MikePA

As I said, just buy Mobil1 at your local auto parts store.

SodaLuvr

Agreeded. I was just responding to the original question, as I personally don't care for syns...from a personal standpoint, it is less expensive to change with conventional every 3-5000 miles as most conventionals are blends to a degree.

optomos

Thats true, but you get better gas mileage by using a good synthetic and with the price of fuel being over 2 dollars that adds up to a considerable amount. I know when I had my lincoln I was getting 12-13mpg average. After switching to a synthetic I was getting 16-17mpg average. This was when gas was only .89 and I only had to use regular.

With gas being over 2 dollars thats a lot over a year. I didnt have the time to do a z score on my TL, but im confident that im saving about 2 gallons of gas per week. 2x4=8x12=96

phipark

I already use Mobil1 5w-20. I was just considering switching to Amsoil.

MikePA

A 33 to 42% improvement in gas mileage simply by switching to a synthetic engine oil?

MikePA

I can't see a reason to switch since you're already using a synthetic.

optomos

Yes, but we all know that percentages can be deceptive. 3-4 gallons out of a 21 gallon tank is not much especially for a 7.5L engine.

SodaLuvr

4MPG increase??? Hmm...what oil were you previously using and what viscosity (dino/syn)? I personally find it quite hard to believe that you'd obtain a 4MPG increase from switching to syn (I know that the Amsoil guys are killing me already ), unless the syn oil cleaned up the stuck rings and allowed for better ring seal???

More info please.

optomos

I used valvoline & mobil 20W50 dino. Then I switched to mobil1 synthetic. After 1 week I had to drain and fill because the oil was soo dirty that it was gritty. I then had a problem with a leak around the timing chain cover, which was replaced and then I switched to amsoil 10W40 or 10W30.

0dyfamily

I know this is an old thread...but I like to use "Search" and add to existing threads, rather than create new ones.

The SDF44 (painted white) was superseded by the EaO44 (painted black). What was the difference between the two, other than the paint color of the filter can?

OF

Skirmich

^ The change was probably cosmetic/product number wise.. I bet is still the same thing inside.. But why bother with oversized? do you change your oil every 15K?

Ernest72

Personally, I don't see the need for it. My father has gotten 200k on cars using crappy old fram filters. I have 185k, 108k and 96k on my cars now using regular old purolators or Bosch filters.

0dyfamily

So, you don't know, either. That makes two of us.

Nope, I'm using standard size for now...but found a nearby inexpensive source for NOS SDF44 filters. If I can get a case of these for a cheaper unit price, why not?

I just stay away from Fram generic...just my personal thought based on personally knowing two people with disintegrating Fram filters. First one: fellow battle rifle nut, settled out of court with Fram; they offered to replace the crankshaft and remove the cardboard; his attorney laughed this of the regime of negotiation. The second offer was pefectly acceptable, but that's all he can say (terms of the settlement).

Second one: had Fram filter cardboard endcap pieces take a hike into the oil galleries of his Audi Coupe. Don't know what the final resolution with Fram was.

Again, just the generic Fram orange can no longer is in the circle of things I buy. Don't have an opinion on Fram's more expensive offerings, and don't care...Purolator and Bosch make similarly priced quality offerings, so that's what I'm using for now.

OF

Skirmich

Nope I cant say for sure but its the most likely scenario.
Also I do 15K changes (Yearly) for my Engine Oil.. That's why I mention the oversize thing.. The K&N and Mobil 1 EP Filter lasts that year with no problems.

0dyfamily

Amazing, isn't it? The trend, at least with the Honda engines, has been small filter, or small filter getting smaller. That holistic engineering approach does it...better filtration going in (air filter), better metallurgy (less metallic wear particles), electronic control of the combustion process coupled with better cylinder sealing...it all adds up to less needing to be filtered out of the oil. Ergo, the filters last longer.

Still haven't found the answer. Nobody knows, truly, what (if any) changes were made "way back in the day" when AmSOil went from the SDF44 to the EaO44 (which is no longer being produced anyway). Even AmSOil resellers can't get the answer from AmSOil.

OF

Skirmich

Because the most educated guess is just a change in production names... That´s exactly what happened to the first NGK R Plugs that became the New NGK Platinum Plus, Nobody asks for their original name but the NGK R logo is still imprinted on them.

Another example is the KYB GR-2 shock became the Excel G. You can still find some old stocks of the GR-2 shock which is silver.. KYB Americas | What is the difference between the KYB GR-2 and the Excel-G products?

Both of these examples are just a change of name, Exactly the same product.

0dyfamily

All that is anecdotal evidence, but it sure makes for an interesting "have a beer while we tak about it" type of discussion. I'd still like to know from somebody at AmSOil if there was a change in filter media, or not. They're pretty tight-lipped about, and probably always will be.

OF

Does not matter a