hey guys, a while ago i saw a thread on a caliper swap on a 2nd gen tl using the lengend calipers but i cant seem to find it! help me out im trying to do the swap...

 

there is no diy on it --I took pics but never got around to posting

simply buy raybestos part numbers frc10627 and frc10628
or brand of your choice based on those numbers...last known to be 75$ each, and the core return of your old calipers is no sweat- they appreciate the` more sellable` TL caliper to rebuild,,not many people looking for 95s...hehehehehe good for us!!!

Thats a left and right caliper number I gave, and the ones with the piston diameter closest together- best for our use

Install them reverse of intent- the one with the big L on it goes on the passenger side of the car, and R goes on driver side
its so the bleeder is on top where it has to be

Other than that they bolt straight up- dont use the mounting brackets that come with the rebuilts- just take the metal spring clips-slider plates and new bolts -transfer over, its cheaper to get the new hardware this way than ordering bits at the dealer
Dont need the giant center clip in the caliper that comes with the legends--
toss that part in the recycle or return with core

SS brake lines are a great idea at the same time- $100-120 for good set of 4
Improves pedal feel,,, especially when you get the brakes hot and having fun--pedal stays firm and reliable brakes

Uses tl rotors brake pads and brake lines, only the caliper itself is legend

 

search is your friend here too-

 

/thread... lol

 

Used 'giant center clip' when I switched. TL calipers also had it.

 

So the only thing I have to change are the calipers and brake lines! I can use the same pads and rotors?would the pads fit right in or have to do some mods?

 

^^they fit right in - no problems.

 

Thanks you guys are the best

 

the new SS brake lines are suggested as an upgrade
They are not required but you want them!

Some people are running the big center clip and others found it hit the outer edge of the rotor so it was tossed instead
Seems to hold them pads down slightly in place,,cant say why some cars have it stock? or not..mine didnt, but had one dealer brake job already~

 

i was like.. wtf squeak!!!!

gotta love racingbrake ss lines

 

do they have to be from the se or gs or anything like that?

 

LS i believe.

GS has it too

 

'95 Legend LS/GS

 

I gave the correct part number to cross referance but its 95 LS-C
for sure,,and others have differnt size pistons

 

how much you guys getting back for the tl calipers? im debating... lol

 

Getting back? If you buy reman you pay a core charge unless you bring in your old ones to exchange at the time of sale.

Make sure you leave with the 2 piston calipers- if they bring out single piston units that's not what you want.

 

what i meant was is is each caliper is $75 bucks with the TL core charge, or do they knock off a few more bucks because the TL core is considered more expensive? im just trying to get a rough figure of what it'll cost me to do the switch

 

no-= they cost the same when purchased and have no extra value when returned
What a frikken dreamer
Spend the 150 or shut up

 

And its not a `TL core` charge~

 

you pay and get back the same amount for core charges.

 

Use the PartsAmerica coupon from the link below 'ONLINESAVE15' if you order online and that will help bring the cost down.


http://www.dealsharks.com/store/part...ca-com-coupons

 

you can order online and pick up at store or sent to your home
Save return shipping of the cores by taking them into local store

search Legend brakes and my name for lots of info on the whole process

We used to be concerned the parts store would not give us back the core charge-- as we were not bringing in the same calipers--but it was learned they like the TL calipers better so its a no hassle situation,,just say nothing

 

The parts guys where I bought mine didn't even look at or compare the ones I returned (TL) to the reman ones I bought (Legend).

 

yeesh i was just wondering, relax

i think ill do it up this summer, need to save up for that and some brake lines

 

the swap is easy and fitment is perfect. Very nice upgrade for cheap money. I love mine.

 

its tiring to see the same questions repeated when there are threads with all the info- prices part numbers- for those willing to follow a simple instruction to search for them~

 

I agree however the search function seems to be down more often than not.

 

there is always the main thread section- look under performance for the brake threads

 

you can also use google to search acurazine - just make sure you include acurazine.com in the search field.

 

I learned something new!! thanks fire

 

no problem.

 

Just to triple check before I begin the swap....ONLY the calipers are used...and NO modifications to either brackets or calipers.

Am I correct? I need to do my brakes pretty soon and I'm getting the Racingbrake HP rotors and Hawk HPS (or Ceramics) pads from Heel Toe. Well, eventually...I just really need pads at the moment...I'm waiting on tax refund and payment for the CE1 wagon I sold.

 

you're right - no need to mod anything other than swapping the calipers from side to side so the bleeder is on top.

honestly, i'd go another route on the pads versus the HAWK HPS. some members had some issues (me included) with the HPS pads on the RB rotors. I'm running the ET500 pads now - 01tl4tl I think is running ET300.

 

I'm planning on running them on the correct side since there seems to be a "big" difference between the diameters of both pistons, so I want to keep it how it's designed on the donor car. I imagine there would be a difference in how it's mounted because of the way the brake rotor rotates in relation to what piston pushes against the pad (into the rotor) first...if there is a difference, I don't know, but I'm trying to keep it how it is on the donor car....hope I haven't confused anyone....

 

not confusing, but your logic is wrong. the piston size has nothing to do with how the caliper is properly positioned or where the rotor "enters" the caliper on rotaation. the bleeder valve needs to be on the top so you can bleed the caliper properly with the air at the top (it's lighter than brake fluid). otherwise how do you plan to bleed the calipers?

 

Take the calipers off the knuckle and have a piece of wood between the pads. Then bleed as usual.

 

geez--the piston size- if you bought the right ones are only a few mm diff--thats fine for our use..

Do not mount them as listed on them - it will not work

 

I am still on the et300s and think the et500s are in the future~
everyone is reporting excellent bite with them
I call the 300s -wife approved

 

I would love to see you show up for a track day with the bleeders on the bottem

After tech inspector got done laughing, he would instuct you on proper installtion when doing a mod process--the original mounting was on the other side of the strut-thats why we have to swap them,,so the old way has nothing to do with how to install on this application!

the piston size diff was for the extreme use and equaling the forces against the pad,,(some racing rules no doubt being pushed to their limits)
Of the 3 or 4 versions of the caliper you can get, its maybe 4 mil max diff in piston sizes
The way you can drive a TL is not going to need the advanced physics~
While we buy them as legend- they were for the nsx

 

the 500s do bite hard. you'd love them at the track. they love getting hot!