The JW11 Build, J35A2 Powered MK1 MR2
#161
I'm not sure what the difference in price would be. I know Ferrea charges at least 50% more for custom valves than they do for shelf valves.
I don't have any substantive reason to prefer Ferrea over Manley; I just think of them as supplying more diverse motorsport uses. Whether or not that is actually the case, I really have no idea.
I don't have any substantive reason to prefer Ferrea over Manley; I just think of them as supplying more diverse motorsport uses. Whether or not that is actually the case, I really have no idea.
#162
3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
iTrader: (7)
I gave manley my measurements and they said will custom make the valves for 26.50 each finished.(Gen II race series) I'm just wonding what size dish on the head I should go with.
I definitly what more compression out of them ,maybe a small to 0 dish.
What are your thoughts on a 0 dish head ?
Far as weight or flow.
That's pretty dam good.
Ferrea seams like to much of a hastle to deal with.And I'm willing to bet they're are even more.
I definitly what more compression out of them ,maybe a small to 0 dish.
What are your thoughts on a 0 dish head ?
Far as weight or flow.
That's pretty dam good.
Ferrea seams like to much of a hastle to deal with.And I'm willing to bet they're are even more.
#163
Manley's custom valve pricing seems to be on par with Ferre's shelf valves. I wouldn't think of doing anything other than the flat face. If you aren't getting custom valves to take volume out of the combustion chamber...... why else would you? There isn't any reason to think that the OE valve is a shortcoming in any way, as far as I know at least.
Well here's something; started and finished up cleaning, coating, and curing the dry film lubricant and ceramic thermal barrier on the pistons today.
In spite of having gone over them with brake cleaner a few times, and the machine shop having glass beaded the domes after they finished with the valve relief work, I wasn't happy with how clean the pistons were, especially on the underside, prior to going into blasting them with aluminum oxide. So I decided to throw the six of them into a stock pot and simmer them on the stove at medium heat for a few hours. I did this with a 1:1 ratio of H2O and Purple Power degreaser and changed the solution halfway throughout the proccess with fresh water and degreaser.. When I pulled them out they were obviously completely devoid of surface oils but there was very noticeable carbon staining (right). However, a quick blast with 120 grit aluminum oxide resulted in the beautiful finish you see on the left.
Then we went through and masked all of the area around the ring land and proceeded to spray the domes with the ceramic thermal barrier.
And following that we cleaned out the airbrush and sprayed the skirts with the dry film lubricant.
And then throw them into a toaster oven at 300*, in sets of three since that's as many as would fit, to cure the coatings.
Giving a nice uniform result that I think turned out very well for our first attempt at this sort of thing;
And with that I am now the purchase of some bearings and piston rings away from assembling the bottom end of this motor.
Well here's something; started and finished up cleaning, coating, and curing the dry film lubricant and ceramic thermal barrier on the pistons today.
In spite of having gone over them with brake cleaner a few times, and the machine shop having glass beaded the domes after they finished with the valve relief work, I wasn't happy with how clean the pistons were, especially on the underside, prior to going into blasting them with aluminum oxide. So I decided to throw the six of them into a stock pot and simmer them on the stove at medium heat for a few hours. I did this with a 1:1 ratio of H2O and Purple Power degreaser and changed the solution halfway throughout the proccess with fresh water and degreaser.. When I pulled them out they were obviously completely devoid of surface oils but there was very noticeable carbon staining (right). However, a quick blast with 120 grit aluminum oxide resulted in the beautiful finish you see on the left.
Then we went through and masked all of the area around the ring land and proceeded to spray the domes with the ceramic thermal barrier.
And following that we cleaned out the airbrush and sprayed the skirts with the dry film lubricant.
And then throw them into a toaster oven at 300*, in sets of three since that's as many as would fit, to cure the coatings.
Giving a nice uniform result that I think turned out very well for our first attempt at this sort of thing;
And with that I am now the purchase of some bearings and piston rings away from assembling the bottom end of this motor.
#164
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Updates!!
#167
Senior Moderator
Awesome as usual. I really want to see what this motor puts down for #s
#169
any update ...also u get anything out coating the pistions.......
also i understand you guys trying to do everything poss to get power by regrinding the cams.....but there has to be a loss frm the regrind.....i think a set of rl cams would be just fine...correct me if im wrong....
also i understand you guys trying to do everything poss to get power by regrinding the cams.....but there has to be a loss frm the regrind.....i think a set of rl cams would be just fine...correct me if im wrong....
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