j35 Intake Manifold Spacer
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
j35 Intake Manifold Spacer
I have an 03 Cl-S 6-speed....Is it worth to buy the j35 IM Spacer (1.6" thick)? Kind of too late, I already ordered it....it was cheap though, with the 9 bolts $50 shipped. I would think that it would improve hp and torque with the mods I have. I/H/E/TB spacer/IM Thermal Gasket/ deleted cat/pulleys/Mugen Stat/fan switch
#2
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
I have an 03 Cl-S 6-speed....Is it worth to buy the j35 IM Spacer (1.6" thick)? Kind of too late, I already ordered it....it was cheap though, with the 9 bolts $50 shipped. I would think that it would improve hp and torque with the mods I have. I/H/E/TB spacer/IM Thermal Gasket/ deleted cat/pulleys/Mugen Stat/fan switch
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I guess I might have to mill it for my hood to close, or i'll see how much I have to raise the hood. I seen a dyno on a j30 and it gained 6 fp torque and the hp line was higher but dropped 4 hp at the last 300 rpms....so I figured with a j32 with more mods it might produce more....i hope
#4
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
I guess I might have to mill it for my hood to close, or i'll see how much I have to raise the hood. I seen a dyno on a j30 and it gained 6 fp torque and the hp line was higher but dropped 4 hp at the last 300 rpms....so I figured with a j32 with more mods it might produce more....i hope
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I ordered it from hondapartsnow.com
17108-RDJ-A00 SPACER, IN. MANIFOLD 1 $23.51 $23.51
95701-08105-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X105) 9 $1.58 $14.22
17108-RDJ-A00 SPACER, IN. MANIFOLD 1 $23.51 $23.51
95701-08105-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X105) 9 $1.58 $14.22
The following users liked this post:
03tLsNBP (10-25-2012)
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
2ndgentl
So I installed the Spacer lastnight......holy shit what a difference! Seriously, i couldnt stop driving it lastnight....but one slight problem.....my hood wont close. I had to bump the back of my hood 1 3/4 inch high. I know, not my style but im going to have my fiberglass guy make a hump out of carbon fiber to look kind of like a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse hood hump. If anyone has any better ideas please let me know.
#10
Senior Moderator
So I installed the Spacer lastnight......holy shit what a difference! Seriously, i couldnt stop driving it lastnight....but one slight problem.....my hood wont close. I had to bump the back of my hood 1 3/4 inch high. I know, not my style but im going to have my fiberglass guy make a hump out of carbon fiber to look kind of like a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse hood hump. If anyone has any better ideas please let me know.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok, i just measured it....the hood gap is exactly 1 1/4 high, which means I need 1 1/2 clearance to close my hood with no problems. FSTTYMS1, not really understanding the whole aluminum slug thing. Please explain, thanks
#13
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
You could throw the spacer in a Bridgeport or other machine and mill it down a bit then cut some of the bracing from your hood and gain a little more clearance that way as well. You'd probably lose some of the gains by milling it but it would most likely be minimal. If you need 1.5 inches just mill about .750 off then try to get the rest of the clearance from modifying the hood.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The gains are great, therefore I don't want to mill anything down, I just need to figure something out here. I'm going to be that asshole who drives around with no hood, I can already see it.....
Last edited by 2ndgentl; 10-26-2012 at 12:14 PM.
#17
Senior Moderator
To put it simply it would be like a Thick washer. Place it between the subframe and the frame. It will lower the subframe, which the motor sits on there by lowering the motor in the engine compartment giving you more hood clearance.
#18
Senior Moderator
Is the 09 TLS intake manifold a little thinner? You could try that too. Which I would anyway as it makes HP and allows you to run a larger tb
#19
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
It is thinner and anoutl half the weight, maybe less. It's also magnesium alloy so it doesn't get as hot. I think someone tries the spacer with that manifold and the hood still had to be popped a little but no where near as bad.
#24
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
It does bolt right up like jcharged said. I was going to get that throttle body until I found out I'll lose cruise control and have to drill a hole into a brand new intake manifold.
The following users liked this post:
JCharged (10-31-2012)
#27
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
lol I know it bolts on, I meant that it would take modifications to get it working properly. With all the sensors and stuff.
What thread were those pics taken out of? I must read up.
What thread were those pics taken out of? I must read up.
#29
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
^ there's one thread about it
#31
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
The throttle body requires no modification. You do have to modify your throttle cable bracket slightly and you have to mod the iacv to keep it working. The iacv requires air before throttle plate and after ,so you probably have to drill a hole in the intake and one in the manifold. Also you will lose cruise control.
#32
Senior Moderator
You can get cruise to work with a different TB
#33
Senior Moderator
Considering it would restrict the airflow its recommended. IMHO its a useless system anyways on the 2g. Also if you are driving faster than normal you should be able to control the vehicle on your own and not drive with the assumption that the computer will fix your mistake for you. If you cant you shouldnt be driving that fast
The following users liked this post:
JCharged (11-01-2012)
#35
Senior Moderator
Any of them I'd imagine if you take the time to get it retrofitted. I got it to work on the 80mm mustang throttle body I originally was working on using the stock cams and springs on a modified shaft. Now I'm working on a dual Tb setup using oem and it will work on that as well.
Last edited by fsttyms1; 11-02-2012 at 10:46 AM.
#36
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Any of them I'd imagine if you take the time to get it retrofitted. I got it to work on the 80mm mustang throttle body I originally was working on using the stock cams and springs on a modified shaft. Now I'm working on a dual Tb setup using poem and it will work on that as well.
#37
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
Considering it would restrict the airflow its recommended. IMHO its a useless system anyways on the 2g. Also if you are driving faster than normal you should be able to control the vehicle on your own and not drive with the assumption that the computer will fix your mistake for you. If you cant you shouldnt be driving that fast
My only concern is the side effects of removing the VSA. Is it as simple as just removing the 2nd throttle body? How do you trick the ECU into thinking it's still there so the warning light doesn't come on?
#38
Senior Moderator
The only time I actually was glad I had VSA was during snowstorms. It did help a little bit to get out of snow drifts and such. But now that I have a Subaru to use also, I don't need to worry about driving my car in deep snow.
My only concern is the side effects of removing the VSA. Is it as simple as just removing the 2nd throttle body? How do you trick the ECU into thinking it's still there so the warning light doesn't come on?
My only concern is the side effects of removing the VSA. Is it as simple as just removing the 2nd throttle body? How do you trick the ECU into thinking it's still there so the warning light doesn't come on?
As for tricking it, most just leave it plugged in zip tied out of the way.
#39
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Or just zip tie the TB. Yay for CL-S6 engine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rp_guy
Member Cars for Sale
9
07-16-2017 07:33 AM
rcs86
Car Parts for Sale
3
08-02-2016 06:52 PM