j35 Intake Manifold Spacer

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Old 10-24-2012, 08:01 PM
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j35 Intake Manifold Spacer

I have an 03 Cl-S 6-speed....Is it worth to buy the j35 IM Spacer (1.6" thick)? Kind of too late, I already ordered it....it was cheap though, with the 9 bolts $50 shipped. I would think that it would improve hp and torque with the mods I have. I/H/E/TB spacer/IM Thermal Gasket/ deleted cat/pulleys/Mugen Stat/fan switch
Old 10-24-2012, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
I have an 03 Cl-S 6-speed....Is it worth to buy the j35 IM Spacer (1.6" thick)? Kind of too late, I already ordered it....it was cheap though, with the 9 bolts $50 shipped. I would think that it would improve hp and torque with the mods I have. I/H/E/TB spacer/IM Thermal Gasket/ deleted cat/pulleys/Mugen Stat/fan switch
If I remember the gains in hp were low to none torque increased a little but not the entire curve. Not to mention it won't fit without you having to pop your hood.
Old 10-24-2012, 08:30 PM
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I guess I might have to mill it for my hood to close, or i'll see how much I have to raise the hood. I seen a dyno on a j30 and it gained 6 fp torque and the hp line was higher but dropped 4 hp at the last 300 rpms....so I figured with a j32 with more mods it might produce more....i hope
Old 10-24-2012, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
I guess I might have to mill it for my hood to close, or i'll see how much I have to raise the hood. I seen a dyno on a j30 and it gained 6 fp torque and the hp line was higher but dropped 4 hp at the last 300 rpms....so I figured with a j32 with more mods it might produce more....i hope
Hopefully you can make it work good luck
Old 10-24-2012, 09:14 PM
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Where did you order it from? I recall it being inexpensive, but not that cheap.
Old 10-24-2012, 09:18 PM
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Not sure where he ordered it from but there are probably tons of those things sitting in junk yards.
Old 10-24-2012, 09:39 PM
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I ordered it from hondapartsnow.com

17108-RDJ-A00 SPACER, IN. MANIFOLD 1 $23.51 $23.51
95701-08105-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X105) 9 $1.58 $14.22
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:39 AM
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2ndgentl

So I installed the Spacer lastnight......holy shit what a difference! Seriously, i couldnt stop driving it lastnight....but one slight problem.....my hood wont close. I had to bump the back of my hood 1 3/4 inch high. I know, not my style but im going to have my fiberglass guy make a hump out of carbon fiber to look kind of like a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse hood hump. If anyone has any better ideas please let me know.
Old 10-26-2012, 10:19 AM
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Pic please sounds exciting!
Old 10-26-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
So I installed the Spacer lastnight......holy shit what a difference! Seriously, i couldnt stop driving it lastnight....but one slight problem.....my hood wont close. I had to bump the back of my hood 1 3/4 inch high. I know, not my style but im going to have my fiberglass guy make a hump out of carbon fiber to look kind of like a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse hood hump. If anyone has any better ideas please let me know.
Get some aluminum slugs made and lower your subframe some (rajaca did this) to make the hood not need as much of a lift
Old 10-26-2012, 10:37 AM
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:41 AM
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Ok, i just measured it....the hood gap is exactly 1 1/4 high, which means I need 1 1/2 clearance to close my hood with no problems. FSTTYMS1, not really understanding the whole aluminum slug thing. Please explain, thanks
Old 10-26-2012, 11:34 AM
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You could throw the spacer in a Bridgeport or other machine and mill it down a bit then cut some of the bracing from your hood and gain a little more clearance that way as well. You'd probably lose some of the gains by milling it but it would most likely be minimal. If you need 1.5 inches just mill about .750 off then try to get the rest of the clearance from modifying the hood.
Old 10-26-2012, 12:12 PM
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The gains are great, therefore I don't want to mill anything down, I just need to figure something out here. I'm going to be that asshole who drives around with no hood, I can already see it.....

Last edited by 2ndgentl; 10-26-2012 at 12:14 PM.
Old 10-29-2012, 05:43 PM
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Where did you get the thermal gasket from??
Old 10-31-2012, 07:48 AM
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The thermal gasket is from P2R
Old 10-31-2012, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Ok, i just measured it....the hood gap is exactly 1 1/4 high, which means I need 1 1/2 clearance to close my hood with no problems. FSTTYMS1, not really understanding the whole aluminum slug thing. Please explain, thanks
To put it simply it would be like a Thick washer. Place it between the subframe and the frame. It will lower the subframe, which the motor sits on there by lowering the motor in the engine compartment giving you more hood clearance.
Old 10-31-2012, 08:38 AM
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Is the 09 TLS intake manifold a little thinner? You could try that too. Which I would anyway as it makes HP and allows you to run a larger tb
Old 10-31-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Is the 09 TLS intake manifold a little thinner? You could try that too. Which I would anyway as it makes HP and allows you to run a larger tb
It is thinner and anoutl half the weight, maybe less. It's also magnesium alloy so it doesn't get as hot. I think someone tries the spacer with that manifold and the hood still had to be popped a little but no where near as bad.
Old 10-31-2012, 09:07 AM
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which larger throttle body can us 2Gs run with the 09 IM?
Old 10-31-2012, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 03tLsNBP
which larger throttle body can us 2Gs run with the 09 IM?
Blox 76mm with the P2R adapter for the 09 manifold.

It will bolt directly on to your existing manifold as well.
Old 10-31-2012, 10:19 AM
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I'm assuming it nowhere near bolt on. Also Type S people would have to delete the VSA TB?
Old 10-31-2012, 10:31 AM
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and it does bolt up. Pics courtesy of Catfisha. This is 03CLSMT's car.


Old 10-31-2012, 10:37 AM
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It does bolt right up like jcharged said. I was going to get that throttle body until I found out I'll lose cruise control and have to drill a hole into a brand new intake manifold.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:08 AM
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Or you can send off your TB to maxbore.com
Old 10-31-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JCharged
Or you can send off your TB to maxbore.com
I was goig to but Paul said the gains would be so minimal it would be worth it. Because where the flap is its still 69mm
Old 10-31-2012, 11:43 AM
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lol I know it bolts on, I meant that it would take modifications to get it working properly. With all the sensors and stuff.

What thread were those pics taken out of? I must read up.
Old 10-31-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Stephen00TL
I was goig to but Paul said the gains would be so minimal it would be worth it. Because where the flap is its still 69mm
Agreed but every bit helps.
Old 10-31-2012, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 03tLsNBP
lol I know it bolts on, I meant that it would take modifications to get it working properly. With all the sensors and stuff.

What thread were those pics taken out of? I must read up.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/finally-got-my-im-start-porting-80mm-tb-s-about-tb-863968/

^ there's one thread about it
Old 10-31-2012, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JCharged
Agreed but every bit helps.
True but I'll switch to a larger throttle body when I swap my motor or get a second car and don't drive this one so much that I need cruise control
Old 10-31-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by reese8789
The throttle body requires no modification. You do have to modify your throttle cable bracket slightly and you have to mod the iacv to keep it working. The iacv requires air before throttle plate and after ,so you probably have to drill a hole in the intake and one in the manifold. Also you will lose cruise control.
Here's another, this is what Reese had to do to get it to work.
Old 11-01-2012, 08:38 AM
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You can get cruise to work with a different TB
Old 11-01-2012, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 03tLsNBP
I'm assuming it nowhere near bolt on. Also Type S people would have to delete the VSA TB?
Considering it would restrict the airflow its recommended. IMHO its a useless system anyways on the 2g. Also if you are driving faster than normal you should be able to control the vehicle on your own and not drive with the assumption that the computer will fix your mistake for you. If you cant you shouldnt be driving that fast
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
You can get cruise to work with a different TB
Which one because according to Paul and everyone that has swapped anything bigger than a type s throttle body you lose cruise control
Old 11-01-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Stephen00TL
Which one because according to Paul and everyone that has swapped anything bigger than a type s throttle body you lose cruise control
Any of them I'd imagine if you take the time to get it retrofitted. I got it to work on the 80mm mustang throttle body I originally was working on using the stock cams and springs on a modified shaft. Now I'm working on a dual Tb setup using oem and it will work on that as well.

Last edited by fsttyms1; 11-02-2012 at 10:46 AM.
Old 11-01-2012, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Any of them I'd imagine if you take the time to get it retrofitted. I got it to work on the 80mm mustang throttle body I originally was working on using the stock cams and springs on a modified shaft. Now I'm working on a dual Tb setup using poem and it will work on that as well.
Hmm I'll have to keep that in mind when I do my motor swap. I just bought a type s throttle body a few days ago so I'll use that for now.
Old 11-02-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Considering it would restrict the airflow its recommended. IMHO its a useless system anyways on the 2g. Also if you are driving faster than normal you should be able to control the vehicle on your own and not drive with the assumption that the computer will fix your mistake for you. If you cant you shouldnt be driving that fast
The only time I actually was glad I had VSA was during snowstorms. It did help a little bit to get out of snow drifts and such. But now that I have a Subaru to use also, I don't need to worry about driving my car in deep snow.

My only concern is the side effects of removing the VSA. Is it as simple as just removing the 2nd throttle body? How do you trick the ECU into thinking it's still there so the warning light doesn't come on?
Old 11-02-2012, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 03tLsNBP
The only time I actually was glad I had VSA was during snowstorms. It did help a little bit to get out of snow drifts and such. But now that I have a Subaru to use also, I don't need to worry about driving my car in deep snow.

My only concern is the side effects of removing the VSA. Is it as simple as just removing the 2nd throttle body? How do you trick the ECU into thinking it's still there so the warning light doesn't come on?
VSA had nothing to do with you getting out of snow drifts, that was TCS which doesnt use the 2nd throttle body.

As for tricking it, most just leave it plugged in zip tied out of the way.
Old 11-02-2012, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
As for tricking it, most just leave it plugged in zip tied out of the way.
I just don't like that idea. Sure it's the easiest, but it's just unclean. You can use a resistor on the VSA sensor to trick the ECU. There's another thread on that. The side effect is that the car will stall if it tries to activate the VSA TB. In order to avoid that, you need to disable the VSA by pressing the VSA button. For convenience, it would just be better to set the VSA switch to auto disable and only enable when pressed. Then just remove the VSA bulb from the gauge, and you're good to go.

Or just zip tie the TB. Yay for CL-S6 engine.
Old 11-02-2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
VSA had nothing to do with you getting out of snow drifts, that was TCS which doesnt use the 2nd throttle body.

As for tricking it, most just leave it plugged in zip tied out of the way.
I thought VSA and TCS were the same thing
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