I'm looking to buy UR Pulleys
Well you said it in the title. UR pulleys work great.
You can get the underdrive lightweight pulley or the stock size lightweight pulley. The underdrive will give you an extra ~2hp over the stock size, but the AC and alternator will be a little underpowered. If you have/want an audio system, just get a stock size pulley.
You can also get the accessory pulleys, but that's mostly for looks. It won't really help that much.
You can get the underdrive lightweight pulley or the stock size lightweight pulley. The underdrive will give you an extra ~2hp over the stock size, but the AC and alternator will be a little underpowered. If you have/want an audio system, just get a stock size pulley.
You can also get the accessory pulleys, but that's mostly for looks. It won't really help that much.
agree only need the crank pulley
stock size only avail thru UR/ Excelerate on here
another option is Bomz brand, used by the CL ziners for many years, and by our own fsttyms1 for the last few years-
his comments- should have done this years ago!
stock size only avail thru UR/ Excelerate on here
another option is Bomz brand, used by the CL ziners for many years, and by our own fsttyms1 for the last few years-
his comments- should have done this years ago!
i'm running the UR stock-sized pulley and have had ZERO problems. Easy way to increase some power. Make sure you have some leverage or a powerful airgun if you are installing yourself. Alternatively, you can check the DIY (I think) for instructions on how to use the starter for help busting the bolt loose.
181 foot pounds torque on main crank pulley bolt
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)
autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy
most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)
autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy
most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
181 foot pounds torque on main crank pulley bolt
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)
autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy
most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)
autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy
most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
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Well you said it in the title. UR pulleys work great.
You can get the underdrive lightweight pulley or the stock size lightweight pulley. The underdrive will give you an extra ~2hp over the stock size, but the AC and alternator will be a little underpowered. If you have/want an audio system, just get a stock size pulley.
You can also get the accessory pulleys, but that's mostly for looks. It won't really help that much.
You can get the underdrive lightweight pulley or the stock size lightweight pulley. The underdrive will give you an extra ~2hp over the stock size, but the AC and alternator will be a little underpowered. If you have/want an audio system, just get a stock size pulley.
You can also get the accessory pulleys, but that's mostly for looks. It won't really help that much.
I already have headers and intake so I want to add a little more power. But if it's really nothing much then I'm not going to get it..
Off topic: Are those HIDs you have for your headlights?
i installed my pulley and headers at the same time so i dont know how much i gained from it
i got 8000k hids for the headlight and 8000k hids for the fogs got them from hidextra.com if thats what you were asking
i got 8000k hids for the headlight and 8000k hids for the fogs got them from hidextra.com if thats what you were asking
we all have HID low beams
the weight loss from 10 to under 2 pounds!! at the end of the crankshaft allows it to spin much faster/easier
that `frees up` about 5-8 HP the engine has,,, `trapped` by that extra weight
result is you get to vtec much faster = in the power band where your other mods can really do their stuff
UR is the only place with a stock diameter size in lightweight form- thanks to josh/excelerate for making that happen
other companies use the underdrive diameter for even faster rev!!-
which is fine until your stereo reaches 600 watts
then with the alt being driven slightly less at idle- it can drain the battery
(meaning normal batt, not optima deep cycle/marine or other trick dual batt setups)
this leads to rough idle and poor performance of electrical systems
Once you start moving its back to normal
ck UR, and ck BOMZ brand for low price and quality without the fancy label~
the weight loss from 10 to under 2 pounds!! at the end of the crankshaft allows it to spin much faster/easier
that `frees up` about 5-8 HP the engine has,,, `trapped` by that extra weight
result is you get to vtec much faster = in the power band where your other mods can really do their stuff
UR is the only place with a stock diameter size in lightweight form- thanks to josh/excelerate for making that happen
other companies use the underdrive diameter for even faster rev!!-
which is fine until your stereo reaches 600 watts
then with the alt being driven slightly less at idle- it can drain the battery
(meaning normal batt, not optima deep cycle/marine or other trick dual batt setups)
this leads to rough idle and poor performance of electrical systems
Once you start moving its back to normal
ck UR, and ck BOMZ brand for low price and quality without the fancy label~
here ya go..
the stock sized lightweight set with belts
Stock sized is the way to go, so no restrictions down the road with audio or a/c or supercharger or flywheel...gl
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...mZ140283108557
the stock sized lightweight set with belts
Stock sized is the way to go, so no restrictions down the road with audio or a/c or supercharger or flywheel...gl
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...mZ140283108557
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
We worked directly with Unorthodox Racing to bring back the stock diameter crank pulley for the 2nd gen CL/TL:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291888.aspx
And here is the stock diameter pulley set:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291889.aspx
Keep in mind there are a lot of copies out there but you get what you pay for. These pulleys are CNC machined and 0 gram balanced and subject to strict quality control.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291888.aspx
And here is the stock diameter pulley set:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291889.aspx
Keep in mind there are a lot of copies out there but you get what you pay for. These pulleys are CNC machined and 0 gram balanced and subject to strict quality control.
here ya go..
the stock sized lightweight set with belts
Stock sized is the way to go, so no restrictions down the road with audio or a/c or supercharger or flywheel...gl
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...mZ140283108557
the stock sized lightweight set with belts
Stock sized is the way to go, so no restrictions down the road with audio or a/c or supercharger or flywheel...gl
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...mZ140283108557
click on the link in Excelerates post above
takes you to his threads and site with prices
unorthodox racing is the name if you want to get google info
yes, new belt for underdrive pulley as diamter has changed total length
also a different brand than oe- it fits the edges of new pulley better
hey Josh- what about stock diamter-new belt with different edge, or stock belt ok?
who doesnt need belts by the time they think of performance upgrade like this?
I would make sure all the tensioners (ac ps) are in good condition too, or that faster rev and old belts may cause you issues
takes you to his threads and site with prices
unorthodox racing is the name if you want to get google info
yes, new belt for underdrive pulley as diamter has changed total length
also a different brand than oe- it fits the edges of new pulley better
hey Josh- what about stock diamter-new belt with different edge, or stock belt ok?
who doesnt need belts by the time they think of performance upgrade like this?
I would make sure all the tensioners (ac ps) are in good condition too, or that faster rev and old belts may cause you issues
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 9, 2011 at 06:07 PM.
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,877
Likes: 624
From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291888.aspx
It's a stock diameter pulley so the belts are the same size/dimensions; UR just recommends Gates brand.
See above.
I went with the undersize UR crank pulley and replaced all my pulleys and tensioners. While you are doing that, "if you haven't already," replace your water pump, timing belt, camshaft position sensor. It will save a lot of labor down the line while you have that area apart for the pulley............. Just an idea, if you have the cash to spare.
I went with the undersize UR crank pulley and replaced all my pulleys and tensioners. While you are doing that, "if you haven't already," replace your water pump, timing belt, camshaft position sensor. It will save a lot of labor down the line while you have that area apart for the pulley............. Just an idea, if you have the cash to spare.
thats why i havent done the pulleys yet, because im gonna do everything at once...
the TL only needs the crank pulley
installing underdrive on the alt and ps lowers their speed too much at idle-low rpm
Stay with crank only in your choice stock or underdrive size and enjoy
many shops charge 40-60 bucks to blast off the crank pulley nut and do the swap for you
To add the 105 service of tbelt wp etcetc is always a good plan if you have the money and are due
BUT
you dont have to remove any tbelt covers to access the pulley and swap it out
For most home DIYs,, I would send you to the shop just because the torque on that bolt is 181 foot pounds- getting it off is one thing- starter can be your force tool to break it loose,
but tightening back to 181 is another story
the one bolt on the car you definetly want back on tight!!!!
installing underdrive on the alt and ps lowers their speed too much at idle-low rpm
Stay with crank only in your choice stock or underdrive size and enjoy
many shops charge 40-60 bucks to blast off the crank pulley nut and do the swap for you
To add the 105 service of tbelt wp etcetc is always a good plan if you have the money and are due
BUT
you dont have to remove any tbelt covers to access the pulley and swap it out
For most home DIYs,, I would send you to the shop just because the torque on that bolt is 181 foot pounds- getting it off is one thing- starter can be your force tool to break it loose,
but tightening back to 181 is another story
the one bolt on the car you definetly want back on tight!!!!
I went with the undersize UR crank pulley and replaced all my pulleys and tensioners. While you are doing that, "if you haven't already," replace your water pump, timing belt, camshaft position sensor. It will save a lot of labor down the line while you have that area apart for the pulley............. Just an idea, if you have the cash to spare.
maybe cam seals with timing belt if leaking
but that comment went from a cheap mod, to a major service!--that guy must be a service writer
you want pulley?- sure we do pulley! = but you save money if you pay me 1500 dollars now instead of when its needed
but that comment went from a cheap mod, to a major service!--that guy must be a service writer
you want pulley?- sure we do pulley! = but you save money if you pay me 1500 dollars now instead of when its needed
181 foot pounds torque on main crank pulley bolt
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)
autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy
most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)
autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy
most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
Again, let me know if this makes sense . . . and I hope so as I've been driving it with this approach for more than a year.

Ruf
I dont know about that ..on a logic basis I agree- reality- I dont know
it wont turn that much to get to 181
there is a spec torque for a reason
I never trust honda techs to know acura,,they are different cars and too many stories on here of honda techs looking at a TL- have no clue to our problems~~
it wont turn that much to get to 181
there is a spec torque for a reason
I never trust honda techs to know acura,,they are different cars and too many stories on here of honda techs looking at a TL- have no clue to our problems~~
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