I'm looking to buy UR Pulleys

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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 12:21 AM
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I'm looking to buy UR Pulleys

What are some good quality pulleys? I'm looking to upgrade my performance some more.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Well you said it in the title. UR pulleys work great.

You can get the underdrive lightweight pulley or the stock size lightweight pulley. The underdrive will give you an extra ~2hp over the stock size, but the AC and alternator will be a little underpowered. If you have/want an audio system, just get a stock size pulley.

You can also get the accessory pulleys, but that's mostly for looks. It won't really help that much.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 11:04 AM
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agree only need the crank pulley
stock size only avail thru UR/ Excelerate on here

another option is Bomz brand, used by the CL ziners for many years, and by our own fsttyms1 for the last few years-
his comments- should have done this years ago!
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 01:51 PM
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i'm running the UR stock-sized pulley and have had ZERO problems. Easy way to increase some power. Make sure you have some leverage or a powerful airgun if you are installing yourself. Alternatively, you can check the DIY (I think) for instructions on how to use the starter for help busting the bolt loose.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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181 foot pounds torque on main crank pulley bolt
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)

autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy

most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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I have the UR Stock Diameter Light weight crank pulley and that is what I would recommend.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
181 foot pounds torque on main crank pulley bolt
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)

autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy

most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
the shop that did mine had the honda tool and still had to rent a tractor trailer gun to bust the nut loose.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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the good ol 1 inch drive semi trailer tire changin air gun,,,it that wont get it loose,
burn it down~
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Karanx7
Well you said it in the title. UR pulleys work great.

You can get the underdrive lightweight pulley or the stock size lightweight pulley. The underdrive will give you an extra ~2hp over the stock size, but the AC and alternator will be a little underpowered. If you have/want an audio system, just get a stock size pulley.

You can also get the accessory pulleys, but that's mostly for looks. It won't really help that much.
Oh wow. I have upgraded my audio system and now I'm looking to get better speakers. So I guess I be better off just not changing anything?
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:21 AM
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i got a 2000watt system i got the stock size xlr8 pulley and everything is ok
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by kdawg8526
i got a 2000watt system i got the stock size xlr8 pulley and everything is ok
Oh ok...Do you notice any difference in power? Throttle response?
I already have headers and intake so I want to add a little more power. But if it's really nothing much then I'm not going to get it..
Off topic: Are those HIDs you have for your headlights?
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 03:02 AM
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i installed my pulley and headers at the same time so i dont know how much i gained from it

i got 8000k hids for the headlight and 8000k hids for the fogs got them from hidextra.com if thats what you were asking
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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we all have HID low beams

the weight loss from 10 to under 2 pounds!! at the end of the crankshaft allows it to spin much faster/easier
that `frees up` about 5-8 HP the engine has,,, `trapped` by that extra weight
result is you get to vtec much faster = in the power band where your other mods can really do their stuff

UR is the only place with a stock diameter size in lightweight form- thanks to josh/excelerate for making that happen
other companies use the underdrive diameter for even faster rev!!-
which is fine until your stereo reaches 600 watts
then with the alt being driven slightly less at idle- it can drain the battery
(meaning normal batt, not optima deep cycle/marine or other trick dual batt setups)
this leads to rough idle and poor performance of electrical systems
Once you start moving its back to normal

ck UR, and ck BOMZ brand for low price and quality without the fancy label~
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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UR pulley installed last month and no problems - definitely faster rev in and out of the gears
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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here ya go..
the stock sized lightweight set with belts
Stock sized is the way to go, so no restrictions down the road with audio or a/c or supercharger or flywheel...gl

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...mZ140283108557
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 03:19 PM
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
We worked directly with Unorthodox Racing to bring back the stock diameter crank pulley for the 2nd gen CL/TL:

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291888.aspx

And here is the stock diameter pulley set:

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291889.aspx

Keep in mind there are a lot of copies out there but you get what you pay for. These pulleys are CNC machined and 0 gram balanced and subject to strict quality control.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AARONSredTYPE-S
here ya go..
the stock sized lightweight set with belts
Stock sized is the way to go, so no restrictions down the road with audio or a/c or supercharger or flywheel...gl

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...mZ140283108557
Thanks for the link! Definitely getting this soon!
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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I'm definitely going to go with the UR from XLR8. I don't really want to worry about future problems with such an important part.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by iamhomersimpson
UR pulley installed last month and no problems - definitely faster rev in and out of the gears
how much was the ur pulley? what is the website. does it require different belt sizes?
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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click on the link in Excelerates post above
takes you to his threads and site with prices

unorthodox racing is the name if you want to get google info
yes, new belt for underdrive pulley as diamter has changed total length
also a different brand than oe- it fits the edges of new pulley better

hey Josh- what about stock diamter-new belt with different edge, or stock belt ok?

who doesnt need belts by the time they think of performance upgrade like this?
I would make sure all the tensioners (ac ps) are in good condition too, or that faster rev and old belts may cause you issues

Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 9, 2011 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
Originally Posted by UA5runner
how much was the ur pulley? what is the website. does it require different belt sizes?
If you just want the crank pulley you will want the pulley in this link:

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291888.aspx

It's a stock diameter pulley so the belts are the same size/dimensions; UR just recommends Gates brand.

Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
hey Josh- what about stock diamter-new belt with different edge, or stock belt ok?
See above.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 01:05 AM
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I went with the undersize UR crank pulley and replaced all my pulleys and tensioners. While you are doing that, "if you haven't already," replace your water pump, timing belt, camshaft position sensor. It will save a lot of labor down the line while you have that area apart for the pulley............. Just an idea, if you have the cash to spare.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by brune55
I went with the undersize UR crank pulley and replaced all my pulleys and tensioners. While you are doing that, "if you haven't already," replace your water pump, timing belt, camshaft position sensor. It will save a lot of labor down the line while you have that area apart for the pulley............. Just an idea, if you have the cash to spare.
i totally agree with everything you said...
thats why i havent done the pulleys yet, because im gonna do everything at once...
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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the TL only needs the crank pulley
installing underdrive on the alt and ps lowers their speed too much at idle-low rpm

Stay with crank only in your choice stock or underdrive size and enjoy

many shops charge 40-60 bucks to blast off the crank pulley nut and do the swap for you
To add the 105 service of tbelt wp etcetc is always a good plan if you have the money and are due
BUT
you dont have to remove any tbelt covers to access the pulley and swap it out

For most home DIYs,, I would send you to the shop just because the torque on that bolt is 181 foot pounds- getting it off is one thing- starter can be your force tool to break it loose,
but tightening back to 181 is another story
the one bolt on the car you definetly want back on tight!!!!
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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well, i already have had the AEM tru power pulleys and belts, so i am gonna install that with the xlr8 stock sized crank pulley..
Let you guys know how it turns out...
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by brune55
I went with the undersize UR crank pulley and replaced all my pulleys and tensioners. While you are doing that, "if you haven't already," replace your water pump, timing belt, camshaft position sensor. It will save a lot of labor down the line while you have that area apart for the pulley............. Just an idea, if you have the cash to spare.
Why would you replace the cam shaft position sensors?
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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maybe cam seals with timing belt if leaking

but that comment went from a cheap mod, to a major service!--that guy must be a service writer
you want pulley?- sure we do pulley! = but you save money if you pay me 1500 dollars now instead of when its needed
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
181 foot pounds torque on main crank pulley bolt
it needs to go back on that tight too!!
spec calls for actual torque,, or can use a lower torque (iirc 130) PLUS 3/4 rotation of bolt to get 181 (if your tool only reads to 150 as example)

autozone or internet sells $25 Honda Pulley removal tool that makes removal of stock pullies easy

most shops charge about 30-45 minutes for this 20 minute job
for them- with big compressor and badazz air gun- that job is done!!
Correct me if this is wrong, but a Honda tech told me just to impact the crank bolt on as much as it'll go and once the engine is running it'll tighten it up even more. This is what I did. On one case I had barely it the bolt with an impact and had to take it off again because the idler pully was acting up. I hammered away with the impact and couldn't get it loose even after trying for 20 mins. So it would seem that the it does tighten up when the engine is running.

Again, let me know if this makes sense . . . and I hope so as I've been driving it with this approach for more than a year.

Ruf
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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I dont know about that ..on a logic basis I agree- reality- I dont know
it wont turn that much to get to 181
there is a spec torque for a reason

I never trust honda techs to know acura,,they are different cars and too many stories on here of honda techs looking at a TL- have no clue to our problems~~
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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wouldnt hurt to have a shop ck the torque for you now
could be an intersting report back!
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