Ok, so long story but here it goes. Yesterday at about 6pm i attempted to install my new xs headers. got a few bolts off but then it got dark so i stopped. Today I started at like 11am and worked till 7pm. So the headers came out and all, but then on jpipe-cat flange, i got 2/3 bolts off with a breaker bar and a ton of force. They squeaked and came off after a while. but the top one (hardest to get to of course) kept stripping and would not budge. tried a MAPP torch and PB blaster back and forth while also smashing it with a hammer and trying to wrench it. nothing worked. so then i went to sears, got a hacksaw and went to town on the bolt. spent about 3 hours cutting this bolt off as it was a very tight place to be in. finally got it off, but not all of it, there was a little bit left. so then i figured id be able to just crack it by yanking down on the jpipe. we ended up sawing off the jpipe hanger and cutting the wires to the jpipe o2 sensor. could not break the flange connection with anything. we were running out of time so i had to put the stock headers back on, which connected to the jpipe with 1/3 bolts in the front (broke 2) and 2/3 in the back. now i sound like im driving a go kart because of all the leaks.

so, what can i do to break the jpipe-cat joint? i was thinking about drilling the bolt completely out, but idk if i can fit the drill up there. any ideas? and i dont want to bring it to a shop because i dont have the $$. oh, also im getting a vsa light now, is that just because of the disconnected o2 sensor? or did i hit something in my angry bolt destruction? also when i lock my car now the doors lock but theres no beep and the lights dont flash. sorry bout the long read but any help would be appreciated, thanks!

 

Try a sharp chisel and hammer. At this point it seems as though everything is fairly well mangled.

 

tried a flathead screwdriver but it didnt do much. do u mean for where the bolt was? or between the flanges.

also, the reason i cut the o2 sensor wires was because i thought we were going to be able to get the jpipe off, then i could get the sensor off easier with it off the car. is it okay to leave it unhooked for now?

 

Where the bolt was. Try to cut the remainder out with the chisel. Break it off or whatever. Don't wanna hit the flange moreso as you do the bolt. Be careful w the cat converter I don't think you wanna be excessively rough w it. Also I wouldn't pry on the flanges seeing how if u scrape the cat flange up it may have problems sealing.

 

Try getting it cherry red w your torch that should make it softer. Map gas gets pretty hot.

 

held the torch on it from 30seconds to a minute each time i did it and it wouldnt get red, the heat shield would and then the cat would smoke a ton but even after like 60 secs of mapp gas on it it wasnt orange. didnt wanna use all of my friends gas though so we only did it for a few minutes total

 

Can u get pics?? How much of the nut is actually left?? Also what condition are the studs in that ate on the cat??? Is it gonna go back together once it's all apart? Do you have replacement cat or plan to use factory one?

 

order XLR8 high flow cat.


remove downpipe and cat all together.




you cut your o2 sensors??? ........ you might as well get new ones while you're at it then.. lol

which ones did you cut? the one on the header downpipe?

that is crucial for the cars air/fuel mixture i believe..

 

=o( I want that cat in the worst way but I'm putting car projects on hold for a few weeks. Meh.

 

I got my J-pipe off yesterday no problem. Wasn't difficult, despite all the people saying the bolts weld to the cat.

If you got 2 off, you can get the third. I just used a breaker bar with a 7" extension. Go over and across the flex pipe with the extension, and the breaker bar will have plenty of room.

Just find space. Another option is to take everything else off, including the hangars, and bend down the front of the pipe for more room.

Another option, cut the flex pipe. You're replacing it anyway.

 

I just heated mine cherry red w map gas torch and took them off w a ratchet no problem. Hardest part of header install to me was getting my torque wrench back there on the rear header cause it's kinda bulky.

 

Why would you cut the wire when you could just un plug it?

 

I'd guess it's safe to say that goin back to stock is not an option for you on this one.

 

ill get pics asap. i cut it because i didnt know u could just unplug it. stupid mistake. how hard would it be to drill through it and just use a new bolt?

 

you didn't even bother following the wires to see where it connects to..

the plug is visible when you're down there looking up.

auto parts store sell universal ones that you have to splice into.. or some sell direct oem replacement... or hopefully you can just reconnect the wires the right way..... i hope you knew that 1 new o2 sensor is about $110+~



just take it to a shop.. stop messing up....

they'll get that bolt off for you in no time.

 

Try to drill the remainder of the nut to break it. If its the top bolt of the 3 on the cat flange it may be hard getting a drill directly on it so go on the side of it. Off topic but I had the same issue when I installed my toilet. But was stripped not turning and mangled from trying. I took a sharp new drill to the side of the nut and went in on it. As soon as I made it through the wall of the nut it easily broke off. I'd say give that a try and see how it works. Go for a flat spot on the nut to prevent the drill from walking off location. Maybe start w a small diameter drill like 3/32 or so to make it a bit easier to keep the bigger drill on location.

 

yeah no the o2 sensor is no big deal, im just going to solder the wires back after work later. the only thing is i got most of the nut and bolt off but theres a little nub left i just have to get through

 

Do you have a cut off tool or a right angle grinder?? Maybe a dremel w a cutting wheel?? If it's small it will be hard to drill into it so maybe just grind it all off or try cutting the corner of the flange off to get the J pipe removed then you'll have room to work on the remainder.

 

i have an impact drill which is really small so that might work. what do u think a shop would charge if i asked them to just bore out that bolt? also the only grinder i think i have access to is a bench grinder

 

okay so i attached the o2 sensor, but now the car idles at lower rpms. when i put it in d5 it doesnt move it just sits there. and the CEL and VSA lights are still on. is that just because of my leaks? i was able to tighten the jpipe-header joints just now but im missing bolts (cuz of the cracked ones) so it obviously wont seal right.

and my friend is bringing his sawzall this weekend so im going to cut that last bolt and put the new headers in asap

 

Any updates??

 

The code is prob o2 sensor. You can get it read if your paranoid, but I would just wait until you put in the headers. Then you should be good.

 

yeah been busy with 12 hours shifts at the hospital, theyre killer. so i took it to a shop near my other job and the guy cracked the o2 sensor loose and knocked the rest of the nut off with an airhammer (for 20 bux). got the xs headers in all on my own but theres still a leak that makes me sound like a harley between the jpipe and cat. Hes gonna drill the rest of the stud out for me and put a new bolt for me sometime this week. cant wait to feel the real power of these babies once im all sealed

 

such a great feeling

 

For future reference, O2 sensors can be had by the pair for less than $80 for a decent aftermarket (Denso) brand.

 

WOW!!! XS headers..

haha.. i heard the new XS headers were the same as the ebay 2 flex joint setup

 

Jj are they really that bad??? Glad I went with DC. Reviews were always good on performance but there has been people getting them w cracked welds and whatnot. I got a good batch and I love mine.

 

haha yeah got a good deal on em so why not. all the welds were good i checked them with a flashlight. fitment isnt perfect but it seems to be sealed for the most part (except at the cat because im still waiting on that last bolt). but even with the leak i can already feel more power once i hit vtec