um i keep seeing that comptech exhaust makes the least amount of noise does that mean it gets the least amount of hp?

 

none of the exhaust really make any HP on our cars. The stock system is really free flowing. Exhausts on our cars are mostly for sound. If your looking for HP look at other mods

 

http://www.performancecenter.com/pro...a/2003/TL/3.2L
so the hp gain from this is because of the catback then? not the exhaust

 

dude, catback = exhaust

there are gains, they're just very minimal, ie. 2-3hp

 

yeah. that website is showing numbers out of this world for an exhaust for our cars. lucky to get any horsepower. Mostly just noise.

 

You wont get any where near those #s for gains on our cars

 

so if im like a 17 year old kid with not a lot of money its not really worth it now?

 

dont buy it if power is what you want. you're almost 10x better off with new headers. otherwise, burn a soundtrack of a car with a bomb exhaust, then blast the stereo whenever you take off, and get some exhaust tips, about 3.5" or so for a sportier look, it'll cost you about 50 bucks for a good set.
oh and look for removing resonators if you want a bit louder ride

 

No. Its not worth it. There are plenty other mods for our cars that are cheaper and will yield far more HP like Intake, Headers, UR Pulley

 

If you search you will find much information on this.

CAI, Headers, UR Pulley, TB Spacer for the Type S, high flow cat.

 

aite thanks i already put in a cai its an injen and the next mod i think ima do is headers what are good headers dc? and what do pulleys like how do they give more hp do and where are they located

 

the most important pulley to replace is the crank pulley. it's the bigger pulley, the one that's on the end of the crankshaft.

the UR one is MUCH lighter and smaller (depending on which one you go for), that's how it frees up horsepower/torque, around 12-12whp.

 

the headers topic has been beat to death on this forum. search!

 

I wouldn't do a crank pulley. 10hp isn't noticeable, and if you convince yourself you can feel it, you'll forget it's there in a day or two. In addition, it's a pain to replace, and most importantly the stock unit incorporates an essential harmonic damper to absorb crankshaft vibrations. That feature is necessary to prolong the life of your engine's crankshaft main and thrust bearings, and to less of an extent serves to keep unwanted engine sounds and harshness from being transmitted to the interior cabin.

do some research.

 

I suggest you do some research. Yes they do, they have been dynoed, and most importantly the TL DOES NOT have a harmonic dampener incorporated into the crank pulley!

 

 

An image from this very forum:



Is there not a rubber ring separating the inner and outer portions of the pulley?

Dampers don't have to be huge things hanging off of the end of the motor.

 

I'm only going on a discussion had long ago on another forum regarding my first car and the voiced opinion of a Ford technician on all oem crank dampers since the 70's.

I searched a bit and found this link. good info. What I'm referring to apparently is an "Elastometric" damper.

http://www.vibratechtvd.com/VISCOUSTECH.htm

 

As long as you use a reputable brand for pullies (unorthodox racing) it will have no negative effect on the motor.

 

I would not consider UR to be a reputable company, considering their clutches throw springs and their FAQ's are loaded with some incorrect and mostly misleading information.

again, only as far as i have experienced and can perceive. maybe i'm special.

 

When it comes to pullies, yes they are. We aren't talking about clutches.

 

That's called an elastomer. It is a rubber ring designed to reduce NVH, which stands for Noise Vibration Harshness. Basically it's there to reduce any noise associated with the pulley so that the consumer does not hear it in the cabin. In fact you will find many 2nd gen CL/TL guys with with tens of thousands and some with over one hundred thousand miles with the UR aluminum crank pulley, all with no issues.

 

That is not a dampener


People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.

 

I love it when newbies join and start correcting the veterans, quoting information from Ford, no less. Then when they get their head handed to them, they start bad mouthing the vendor.

 

...and from someone who doesn't even own a TL.

 

oh Lord....

 

lol, you guys are funny. You're trying to bash a guy to defend a ten horsepower gain for an already moderately peppy automatic transmission luxury car just because he'd rather see you be safe than sorry... but I guess it's not my place to keep you from beating off to your receipts for pulleys and intakes and throttle body spacers if it makes you feel better about yourself.

I maintain that even if the crankshaft doesn't start walking 50k miles from now, 10hp isn't worth whatever they cost. You really ought to think about it and concede that a stock crank pulley is fine too before you delve into the superficial realm of ricer modifications for naturally aspirated cars. Just because a pulley set was documented to net 10hp (dyno's can produce a +/- 5hp result back to back no changes made, by the way) doesn't mean it's any better than that huge airfoil that was documented to actually produce downforce. If they make turbo kits for a TL, get one and then think about how rad your pulleys are.

It's obvious to me that my projects have taught me more bout what's good and what isn't than most of you weeaboo's will ever accumulate if you keep this shit up.

MikePA, you're an idiot for even using the word "newbie," but more-so for using it in regards to my sign-up date to this forum.

Fuck off; the lot of you.

~Neil

 

best bang for the buck is nitrous. if installed and used properly u wont have any problem. but it will shorted the life of your engine and youll go threw trannys faster. like me lol

 

No engine is externally balanced. you ought to read the article i linked earlier.

also you mean Damper, a dampener would make something wet.

 

i agree with you oh_two. i recently purchased a pulley set. i was convinced by 3 different mechanics that has been working in aftermarket installation store. 3 different store recommend me to not mess around with pulleys. so i ended up selling mines.

 

i'd let people do whatever the hell they want to their car, it's theirs. if they get rad HP gains then applaud them, if they get rad repair bills then applaud them. w/e

 

ok back to exhaust. for some reason i thought headers would get you about twenty more horses. maybe i'm wrong but i got onto www.autopartswarehouse.com and saw some DC sport headers they were ceramic coated headers. i think around 417 dollars they said they add 10 or so horses. if thats and my head is in the clouds on the horsepower just let me know i dont wanna put them on expecting this huge noticable horsepower difference and get ten. LOL thanks guys

 

You should start your own automotive wisdom web site. Even at several thousand members, Acurazine is much too small a site for you. Think of all the tens of thousands you could help with your own site. I'm sure people could get over your arrogance. It's such a small hurdle given your wisdom. Actually, people could join your site but don't let them post. Afterall, they're just weeaboos so they should just sit and read your automotive commandments. By the way, there shouldn't be an apostrophe at the end of weeaboos. Since you corrected Chris' use of the word damper I thought you should know. See, I used an apostrophe to indicate possession. It's easy. Look, another apostrophe in a contraction, instead of typing it is.

I will look forward to the day when iknoweverythingabouteverycarandyoudonot.com is on the air.

 

The Comptech site used to have (maybe it still does) dyno graphs of different combinations of their parts. Almost all the gains from headers are at 5500 rpm and above. I took the following hp gains from headers from their site a few years ago.

2750 3.7
3000 3.5
3250 3.1
3500 5.1
3750 3.8
4000 2.1
4250 0.6
4500 -1.3
4750 -2.6
5000 -0.4
5250 2.1
5500 5.1
5750 11.0
6000 14.0
6250 13.3
6500 13.7
6750 16.2

 

You come on here with under 10 posts and start telling people information that you have nothing to back up. You aren't even a TL owner and you come on here giving misinformation, while most of us have been on here for years and seen what works and doesn't work. You know VERY little about this car and its motor, yet talk like you designed it.Yes on some cars its not a good idea to remove it, but on ours it doesn't hurt it. So what if it only makes 10 or less horse, its a gain. Its also a gain thats one of the most noticeable next to headers, which im sure you will have a complaint for those as well for us not to use it?? They are proven on our cars and a cheap mod. There are many members that have been running them for over 6 years with NO issues. Our motors are internally balanced and don't require a harmonic damper.
While we value information here by members, we don't like others coming on with very little knowledge telling others what they should or shouldn't run without any knowledge or information about this car.
If you don't want to run headers, or a intake or a "Pulley" because we have "an already moderately peppy automatic transmission luxury car" thats fine, but many are looking for that little extra.
We are glad you have accumulated whats good and whats not. So have we, and we tend not to mislead our members with things that are or aren't good for our cars.

 

Headers add the most noticeable gain in power of all the mods. I dont know what your expecting from mods but most gain but aren't going to be noticeable to the seat of the pants even though they are there. You aren't going to feel a kick in the pants like a SC or turbo kicking in but they are going to be there. The way you will notice the most is if you start going to the track and start seeing the difference.

 

thats cool i was just looking for some figures thanks for the chart mikePA

 

 

Pulleys are for ricers? Please explain to me how a performance mod deems someone to be a ricer. Your posts just keep getting better and better, making you look like a bigger jackass each time. You sure seem to know a lot about TLs!

 

or anything about cars in general they sell underdrive pulleys for mustangs camaros and old muscle cars all day. ricer my ass