I am getting ready to put new front rotors on and EBC Greenies all the way around. The new Greenies have some break in coating on them. Do I still need to bed them in?

 

yes, from waht i've read, 200-400 miles break-in period, avoid HARD breaking during this time too

 

Also while your breaking them in sometimes you will notice squeeling.....This is normal and will eventually go away dont worry. I have had EBC green Stuff for a year....It still leaves some break dust on my chrome wheels but not as much as factory pads..... I also had brembo slotted rotors which helped keep the heat down.

 

You need to follow the bed in procedure described here for optimum performance
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

 

You NEVER want to go out right away and bed in your pads!

This is what EBC recomends
EBC

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

NOTE: If a higher than normal amount of brake dust or excessive pad squeal from EBC pads and rotors is experienced, they may be glazed. Remove this glazing by decelerating aggressively from 60mph to 20mph in a safe area. This should be repeated 3 times. Then allow the brakes to cool by driving normally


http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

 

I tried to find info on beeding in the pads on EBC's web site and found nothing. With this new break in coating I had hope no bedding in was needed.

 

Uh...the bed-in procedure was uncluded with my pads...did u RTFM?

 

All I had in the box is a small tag that said to drive extra careful for the first few days to allow the pads to break in. Nothing about bedding them in.

 

That is their break-in proceedure. Basically - drive nice for a few days and then you're good to go.

 

Yes, break in procedure should be performed after 400-500 city miles.

 

I NEED THOSE PADS and INEXPENSIVE TOO!!!

 

400-500 miles is the break in

 

From Stoptech's white paper. I am not sure 400-500 of stop and go city driving can achieve these goals.

"When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.

The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.

Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads
For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.

We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.

After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.

In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications. "

 

Always use the brake pad manufacturers break in technique. These break in proceedures can vary widely from EBC's "drive nicely for 500-600 miles" to other pads where they have you doing repeated aggressive 60-0 stops (sometimes 20+ stops).

Using the wrong technique on the wrong pad will be harmful to the life and/or braking quality of the pad.

 

Depends on usage, if one plans to have repeated high speed braking, why not prep your pads to those higher temperatures? Acura, the manufacturer of our cars, also does not recommend suspension modification of any kind, most of us do so anyway because we prefer better handling and lowered look. The same can be said about intake, exhaust, pulley etc...

 

You should ALWAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! take it easy on the pads/rotors for atleast 500 miles before you get hard on them. Taking it easy on the brakes for the first few hundred isnt so much for the pads as for the rotors. If you dont give the rotors time to heat cycle they will warp easier.! I warped Brembo BBK by going out and Bedding them in right away! I got new Rotors and took it easy on them for a few hundred and never warped tehm up until the time i slamed the car into the tire barier at 100 (oops)

 

Well I am finished. The EBC's are installed all the way around and the new front rotors are on. I painted the calipers and they say not to drive on them for 24 hours. Man the front caliper bolts were on real tight. But my enforcer showed them who is boss! I ended up drilling out the rotor screws and leaving them out???

I can't wait to take them out, break them in and give'em a try. The OEM pads made it 111,000 miles.

Next, new tires.