where is it located?

 

Well for starters you just said you have misfire codes. Just because the car SEEMS to be running right its not. The ecu is seeing that and dialing back on the tunning which is the reason for your low #s.. Get the misfire figured out and fixed, then dyno it

 

The imrc wasn't workin so i got one at a wrecking yard off(dealer $113 special order only) a cl motor w 38k on it for $40. Installed it and car runs a hell of a lot better. could that have caused the missfires because it wasn't getting enough air?

 

Are you still getting the codes?

Also, why did you get a dyno test when you knew you were having misfires?

 

Very well could have been. Reset the ecu and see if it comes back. If not that was your problem

 

damn guys, this is exactly why I love AZ.
Loveit when threads end like this!!!

 

Still having the problems so i'm going to the dyno place for a diag. He knows the tl well so i'm confident he can find the problem...

 

Sorry boku, this thread is still running!! I might be at your shop and "borrow" your coilpacks

 

at the time of the dyno i thought i had fixed the problem... i changed the plugs

 

I'm taking it to the shop today and see if they could find the problem... I don't know if this helps but when im idling the car's CEL/vsa would come on.. Someone checked the egr and the coilpacks and said they were working fine(they disconnected each coil while the car was running) Is that the right way to check it?

 

No thats not the way to check them. Honestly im not sure i would bring it to the place that does the dyno. what are they going to charge you per hr? Your problem could be many things. You really need to have the ecu being read to see whats going on to cause the lights.

 

I did go to that place..... All I know are the codes P300-306 & p1399 so bascially all cylinders plus a random misfire.. So how should they test the coilpack?

 

Well just like any other misfire thread the 2 best options are go to the dealer (their computers will actually show live data and whats wrong, or buy 1 new coilpack and start at #1 cyl replace it with the new, reset the ecu take for a drive and see if it comes back remove and repeat on next cyl. work your way around to see if you can find which one is bad. (usually just one is bad on our cars when it shows a multiple misfire) if its not those it could be a 02, cat,egr, valves that need adjusting, ecu.

 

Sooooooooooo.. i took it to the shop and found out i had a bad egr valve kind of explained the CEL when the car was idling(EGR valve was opened when it was supposed to be closed and vise versa).. we did another egr port/throttlebody cleaning and it runs smoother.. he let it idle for about 2 hours(for sure the CEL would come back on before) and it was fine.. I'm gonna do another dyno this weekend so I hope for the best... Damn a bad IMRC AND EGR PORT

 

And if this is the problem then the dealer was wrong... They told me that they had to pull the engine apart and that would at least cost $2500 .. This guy today knew what he was doing. I told him what the dealer said and even showed him paperwork. He said if it was a specific cylinder, then it would throw that cylinder. but since I had all (p300-306) he wanted to test the sensors and the egr and that's how he found the problem.. 2 acura dealerships and 2 diagnostics and they couldn't figure that out.. Shit they couldn't even figure out the imrc was bad.. I had to point it out under my hood cuz they couldn't locate it on their parts database..

 

so tommorrows tha day, i'm takin the car to the shop and hopefully i will find the problem.. I'm buying 6 coilpacks, bringing in my stock crank pulley and buying a used ecu... there's nothing else i can think of

 

Maybe a bad fuel injector?

 

How would I know if I had one?

 

gl

 

Unfortunately I don't know how you test them. But I do know it's a possibility because I know a few people that have had the same symptoms and it ended up being a bad fuel injector. I'd take it to a Honda specialist shop and have them check it out. Good luck.

 

Problem still exists! It seems it comes on only at idle..... I'm going back to stock...

 

Have you pulled the intake manifold since egr valve replacement and cleaned it out?
If EGR was running full open, the ports and all will be really dirty already

 

Yeah, that was done when i changed the egr valve!

 

so that place was unable to find the problem? Some one needs to do a vacuum test to see if you have leaks any where.

 

I think someone mentioned that problem a page or so ago LOL

 

I know The OP never said weather its been done or not. To me it sounds like it is which is why i re-recommended it

 

just like when the dealer told a member with a miss-vac leak they needed new vac assisited front motor mount, but instead of replacing it, said member spent a year trying everything and every part, used numerous pages of azine thread space and wasted money on wrong parts, then eventually replaced said motor mount-

problem instantly fixed !!!!
Who would have thought: a professional diagnosis would be the actual answer

bwebb- better b-nice to fsttyms1
he is our Gen 2 Moderator/guru, has the power of ~time out~ and has been inside his engine.
What he says to do- is usually a good idea to go check, AGAIN if necessary

 

alright alright my bad. lol sorry if that came off a little rude but hey i have gotten a lot of crap from here too. lol

 

I knew you weren't being rude

 

I have to stick up for my SuperHero, Answer Man -when I feel new members may not be aware of his secret powers of physic diagnosis of car probs and banning pita'S when required.

When I wrenched- there was a direct correllation of people's personal problems and what was wrong with their car.
Blowing your cool lately- better check the water pump and AC system
No direction in Life?- alignment-ball joints-control arms
Feel out of control?- needs brake job

When you are new- you get grief- if you can take it- you become a respected member,
well maybe not respected (poking fun at myself) at least people stop giving you s......t

 

Yeah its really pissing me off....I think its either a coil or a injector, but they said they tested the coil for resistance.. I don't know if thats the correct way to test it.. I'm thinking about taking off my thermoblock spacer... So thus far i ruled out these problems..plugs,egr ports, air filter, I got a new egr valve,took off crank pulley, cleaned out the ports(after changing egr valve) cleaned out throttlebody, compression good, did a valve adjustment about 30k ago...A couple of other notes.. I changed my plugs with denso's about a month ago, and checked them last week and they were worn so I changed them again with ngk dealer plugs.. even if i reset the code, when I let the car idle for even a minute, the CEL along with the vsa and the triangle come on, but if i reset the code and drive on the freeway(even a long distance) it's fine.. I don't really feel any loss of power, oil change every 3k, premium gas and seafoam every 10k. I just bought a new 08 type s the 08 is faster but not by much but the 08 has more torque and the 03 seems to pull harder in 3rd gear. so I don't know if the 03 should be faster with all my mods..

 

my car is fast the an AT 3rd gen type s lol but i havent raced a 6mt yet so i dunno

 

for grins remove your intake and thermo spacer and flip over your oem gasket and reinstall every thing(including the spacer)

Ive seen a few instances now of the gasket being upside down causing a misfire

 

lol happened to me

 

I really don't want to take it to anymore shops and im trying to educate myself as well. What i know is even if i reset the codes, it will come back when the car idles... for example if i reset the codes and drive about 100 miles, the lights would stay off.. but the moment I let it idle for more than 20 seconds, the lights come on.. the codes are p300-306, p1399.. misfire in every cylinder, random misfire.. anytime i seafoam it, the cel/vas/warning triangle come on.. even if the cel light is on, during idle the vsa/warning triangle come on.. completley cleaned out egr/throttlebody, changed the plugs, cleaned air filter and the car dosen't have a vacum leak sound, i don't smell gas in the engine bay so i hope that rules out the injectors.. if the car is idling and we dissconnect one coil, it really sounds like its misfiring(we checked every coil.).. so far the previous problems i fixed were the imrc and the egr valve..dyno says i'm running rich..

 

Just try what i mentioned. I have seen an upside down gasket cause those codes in 2 cars now.

Also just because you dont hear it doesnt mean you dont have a vac leak. Disconnecting a coil one at a time is NOT the way to check them. You have to buy a new one and work your way around with it. A 02 sensor could cause that as well (and no, it wouldnt necessarily throw a 02 code)

 

Whats the correct way to check for a vaccum leak?

 

With a vacuum gauge.

just try flipping the IM gasket around to see if its upside down. It will take all of 30 min.

 

Checked all the gaskets and they are fine.... pulled one of the plugs and it seems to be running lean.. didn't have the tool to remove the IVAC so i'll be pulling that out and cleaning it.. checked egr valve and its good also disconnected each coilpack when the car was running and each one I pulled out made the engine run rougher.. car idles fine and dosent sound like its misfiring.. I do have a wierd suction noise from the CAI... I'll try to get some video/sound clips

 

is it a humming noise?