Calliper for 04 fit 2nd gen?

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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:15 PM
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Calliper for 04 fit 2nd gen?

Would the callipers from a MT third gen TL fit on a second gen?
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:22 PM
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Apparently, people are saying no.

I swapped my 7.5 ET42 wheels with my brother ('05 TL 6-speed), and they wouldn't clear the calipers on his car. For comparison, these same wheels clear my Rotora BBK calipers with like 15mm to spare. So that would require like 7.5 ET35 wheels if you wanted to put the 3G Brembo calipers on the 2G.

Just for that reason alone, I wouldn't do it. You would have crazy rubbing issues. Not to mention, the caliper mount is apparently different.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Can you comment on the rotora BBK? How does it compare to stock brakes, and how hard is it to install?


Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Apparently, people are saying no.

I swapped my 7.5 ET42 wheels with my brother ('05 TL 6-speed), and they wouldn't clear the calipers on his car. For comparison, these same wheels clear my Rotora BBK calipers with like 15mm to spare. So that would require like 7.5 ET35 wheels if you wanted to put the 3G Brembo calipers on the 2G.

Just for that reason alone, I wouldn't do it. You would have crazy rubbing issues. Not to mention, the caliper mount is apparently different.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by alpswd
Can you comment on the rotora BBK? How does it compare to stock brakes, and how hard is it to install?
Rotora BBK = unbelieveable. I'm boiling my Ate Super Blue brake fluid (pretty damn high boiling point) before the brakes ever have a chance to fade.

As for installation... it's not that hard at all, except you have to expect seized bolts. ESPECIALLY the two screws that hold the rotors to the hub.

Other than that, it's just a few bolts here and there, swap, bleed brakes, break it in and stop on a dime 50 times in a row without fading.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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So, what was your solution to the seized bolts? Will I need air tools? How long did the installation take from start to finish, and would you rate it harder or easier than installing springs?

sorry for all the questions


Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Rotora BBK = unbelieveable. I'm boiling my Ate Super Blue brake fluid (pretty damn high boiling point) before the brakes ever have a chance to fade.

As for installation... it's not that hard at all, except you have to expect seized bolts. ESPECIALLY the two screws that hold the rotors to the hub.

Other than that, it's just a few bolts here and there, swap, bleed brakes, break it in and stop on a dime 50 times in a row without fading.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by alpswd
So, what was your solution to the seized bolts? Will I need air tools? How long did the installation take from start to finish, and would you rate it harder or easier than installing springs?

sorry for all the questions
No need to apologize. That's what we are all here for.

For the rotor screws, I sprayed them with PB Blaster (WD40 would work, too, but in my opinion, PB Blaster works much better) and let it soak in for about 5 minutes. Then I used a blow torch to heat them up, used an impact screwdriver (hit it with a hammer, and the force activates the mechanism inside and turns the screwdriver head... a nice tool to have ). After a few hard hits, the screws came out.

I didn't have any problems with the caliper bolts, but other members did. Because the calipers are mounted on the caliper brackets by a bolt and a nut, they can spin. Although it's usually not a problem, sometimes they do get seized pretty good and become hard to take off, spinning together. You will just have to use vice grips on the nut and hit the wrench on the bolt hard with a hammer.

To break it down... it's two bolts on the caliper, two screws on the rotor, a mounting clip and a small screw on the brake line... that's pretty much all you have to do. The most cumbersome part (but really not that hard) is the dust shield, which have to come off due to the oversized BBK rotors. The shield isn't big enough to accommodate. All you have to do is use cutters to cut into the shield (it's just a thin metal plate), bend it and wiggle it out. But be careful because it could cut your hands.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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Thanks!
So, how long from start to finish?

Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
No need to apologize. That's what we are all here for.

For the rotor screws, I sprayed them with PB Blaster (WD40 would work, too, but in my opinion, PB Blaster works much better) and let it soak in for about 5 minutes. Then I used a blow torch to heat them up, used an impact screwdriver (hit it with a hammer, and the force activates the mechanism inside and turns the screwdriver head... a nice tool to have ). After a few hard hits, the screws came out.

I didn't have any problems with the caliper bolts, but other members did. Because the calipers are mounted on the caliper brackets by a bolt and a nut, they can spin. Although it's usually not a problem, sometimes they do get seized pretty good and become hard to take off, spinning together. You will just have to use vice grips on the nut and hit the wrench on the bolt hard with a hammer.

To break it down... it's two bolts on the caliper, two screws on the rotor, a mounting clip and a small screw on the brake line... that's pretty much all you have to do. The most cumbersome part (but really not that hard) is the dust shield, which have to come off due to the oversized BBK rotors. The shield isn't big enough to accommodate. All you have to do is use cutters to cut into the shield (it's just a thin metal plate), bend it and wiggle it out. But be careful because it could cut your hands.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by alpswd
Thanks!
So, how long from start to finish?
It was me and a friend going at it for about 4 hours, I think. But I was also installing the rear rotors at the same time... ALL 4 screws in the rear were seized because they had never been touched since installed at the factory, whereas my front rotors were replaced by the dealership due to warping at about 30k miles, I think. I only had one seized rotor screw in the front.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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If you are thinking about doing it, make sure the calipers will clear your wheels.

Send an E-mail to tech@rotora.com and ask for the template. I lost mine, otherwise I would send it to you right now.

Download the file and follow the instructions to cut the template to measure the clearance by putting it up to the inside of the wheel. It's really easy to use and you will find out for sure if your wheels will clear the calipers or not.
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