Brakes ???
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NO BP FUEL IN MY
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From: Queens NY.
Brakes ???
I recently swapped my f/r rotors to Rotora X-drilled/Slotted, with Rotora ceramic pads, and installed stainless steel lines.
I know its no BBK but I expected to feel better braking. I have noticed some fade, and overall less quality feel than with the stock setup.
Car is a 03 type S btw, (dont think it matters)
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
I know its no BBK but I expected to feel better braking. I have noticed some fade, and overall less quality feel than with the stock setup.
Car is a 03 type S btw, (dont think it matters)
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
did u bleed the system correctly, if your low on pad life it the pedal will move further down. drilled and slotted rotor will chew up pad quicker than the stock set up.
you should've done the legend calipers at the same time. i have the same setup as you - the x drilled and slotted rotors. as i have slotted only and legend calipers + ss lines and my car stops way better than a regular tl. did you use synthetic brake fluid ? sounds like you could have air in the system
Thread Starter
NO BP FUEL IN MY
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From: Queens NY.
Yes, SS lines on all four corners.
We bled the system when we did they install, then again a couple days later. I am still running the OEm fluid, we just topped it off with some STP when we bled it.
I bought synthetic, now, cuz I would like to completely flush the system.
Thanks for the responses guys.
They are appreciated.
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Im going with- do a good bedding- http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
rotora are known to take 500 miles to bed in.
The brake bleed order is LF driver front then clockwise LF RF RR LR
A non acura tech may not know that special order, its differant than any car I ever worked on!
Go do the ABS air test- do 2 stops from 45mph with ABS active- that means max effort braking to get the pedal pulsing- may have to throw water on the street to make it happen
Immedialty accellerate and do the 2nd stop from 45 mph
If the pedal feels better- you had air in the controller- which has now moved to a caliper- normally LF, rebleed the system with correct order and test
Use regular brake fluid with regular lines and can use synthetic with SS lines
rotora are known to take 500 miles to bed in.
The brake bleed order is LF driver front then clockwise LF RF RR LR
A non acura tech may not know that special order, its differant than any car I ever worked on!
Go do the ABS air test- do 2 stops from 45mph with ABS active- that means max effort braking to get the pedal pulsing- may have to throw water on the street to make it happen
Immedialty accellerate and do the 2nd stop from 45 mph
If the pedal feels better- you had air in the controller- which has now moved to a caliper- normally LF, rebleed the system with correct order and test
Use regular brake fluid with regular lines and can use synthetic with SS lines
Whats that?? Slider pins?
Yes, SS lines on all four corners.
We bled the system when we did they install, then again a couple days later. I am still running the OEm fluid, we just topped it off with some STP when we bled it.
I bought synthetic, now, cuz I would like to completely flush the system.
Thanks for the responses guys.
They are appreciated.
Yes, SS lines on all four corners.
We bled the system when we did they install, then again a couple days later. I am still running the OEm fluid, we just topped it off with some STP when we bled it.
I bought synthetic, now, cuz I would like to completely flush the system.
Thanks for the responses guys.
They are appreciated.
Thread Starter
NO BP FUEL IN MY
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
From: Queens NY.
Im going with- do a good bedding- http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
rotora are known to take 500 miles to bed in.
The brake bleed order is LF driver front then clockwise LF RF RR LR
A non acura tech may not know that special order, its differant than any car I ever worked on!
Go do the ABS air test- do 2 stops from 45mph with ABS active- that means max effort braking to get the pedal pulsing- may have to throw water on the street to make it happen
Immedialty accellerate and do the 2nd stop from 45 mph
If the pedal feels better- you had air in the controller- which has now moved to a caliper- normally LF, rebleed the system with correct order and test
Use regular brake fluid with regular lines and can use synthetic with SS lines
rotora are known to take 500 miles to bed in.
The brake bleed order is LF driver front then clockwise LF RF RR LR
A non acura tech may not know that special order, its differant than any car I ever worked on!
Go do the ABS air test- do 2 stops from 45mph with ABS active- that means max effort braking to get the pedal pulsing- may have to throw water on the street to make it happen
Immedialty accellerate and do the 2nd stop from 45 mph
If the pedal feels better- you had air in the controller- which has now moved to a caliper- normally LF, rebleed the system with correct order and test
Use regular brake fluid with regular lines and can use synthetic with SS lines
Okay, why does it need to be a certain order on the bleeding?
YES its CRITICAL to bleed in the correct order on any car!!!-they do vary
The TL with its ABS brakes and the funky way the many lines are run and their various lengths--- thats the correct FACTORY BOOK procedure for bleeding them
LF = driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
Synthetic fluid is great with SS lines since they have a teflon core
Standard rubber lines- especially old ones- may not respond well to it
Read the label carefully
The TL with its ABS brakes and the funky way the many lines are run and their various lengths--- thats the correct FACTORY BOOK procedure for bleeding them
LF = driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
Synthetic fluid is great with SS lines since they have a teflon core
Standard rubber lines- especially old ones- may not respond well to it
Read the label carefully
Hmm ok I didn't know there was any particular order, nor that it varied w/ the vehicle.
What about --> Is there any harm in flushing system with synthetic that has regular fluid in it? Did not see a response.
What about --> Is there any harm in flushing system with synthetic that has regular fluid in it? Did not see a response.
Thread Starter
NO BP FUEL IN MY
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From: Queens NY.
Well, thanks for the feedback gents. I'm getting another bottle or 2 of the synthetic, and will be replacing old fluid with synthetic, as well as the bleeding(kill 2 birds with one stone)
Thanks
Thanks
use a turkey baster to remove most- but not all- of the old fluid from the master cyl
A water/drink bottle is a good catch can for transfer from baster to container
You dont want to uncover the holes!!!- that just gets air in!
Fill the res with new fluid and replace cap- clean the strainer screen with brake cleaner spray and put it back in when dry- then fill res thru the filter screen
Put cap all the way on brake res
cap the new bottle of fluid or it will get knocked over and brake fluid EATS paint!!!
If you didnt know about bleed order---- did you know about where to apply caliper grease to the pad backs and the slider tabs and slider pins?
IIRC- the synth bottle says its ok to use with regular brake lines, but you wont
be able to use the increased temp limits/ performance gain it will return when used with stronger better SS lines
READ the labels and confirm - make sure it says approved for Acura too
A water/drink bottle is a good catch can for transfer from baster to container
You dont want to uncover the holes!!!- that just gets air in!
Fill the res with new fluid and replace cap- clean the strainer screen with brake cleaner spray and put it back in when dry- then fill res thru the filter screen
Put cap all the way on brake res
cap the new bottle of fluid or it will get knocked over and brake fluid EATS paint!!!
If you didnt know about bleed order---- did you know about where to apply caliper grease to the pad backs and the slider tabs and slider pins?
IIRC- the synth bottle says its ok to use with regular brake lines, but you wont
be able to use the increased temp limits/ performance gain it will return when used with stronger better SS lines
READ the labels and confirm - make sure it says approved for Acura too
They dont actually `mix` Remove as much old fluid as posible from Master and refill with new so the supply is all fresh stuff
as you pump the pedal and then open the valve, fluid moves to the calipers - the old stuff is `in front of` the new stuff
It does not circulate!!- it only goes back and forth in a very limited area- so each time you open the bleeder valve- out comes more old fluid
You repeat until all bubbles and all dirty fluid out- then a few sets of clean fluid comes out-- and you are done.
There is no mixing- its all new!!
After all that- do the ABS 45mph test to dislodge any trapped air
The brakes will feel funny until thats done too
Failure to bleed in correct order after SS line install - will result in scary braking at best! and possibly no brakes. or it takes 2-3 pedal pumps to make pressure~
Not the best situation to find oneself in entering a favorite corner
as you pump the pedal and then open the valve, fluid moves to the calipers - the old stuff is `in front of` the new stuff
It does not circulate!!- it only goes back and forth in a very limited area- so each time you open the bleeder valve- out comes more old fluid
You repeat until all bubbles and all dirty fluid out- then a few sets of clean fluid comes out-- and you are done.
There is no mixing- its all new!!
After all that- do the ABS 45mph test to dislodge any trapped air
The brakes will feel funny until thats done too
Failure to bleed in correct order after SS line install - will result in scary braking at best! and possibly no brakes. or it takes 2-3 pedal pumps to make pressure~
Not the best situation to find oneself in entering a favorite corner
They dont actually `mix` Remove as much old fluid as posible from Master and refill with new so the supply is all fresh stuff
as you pump the pedal and then open the valve, fluid moves to the calipers - the old stuff is `in front of` the new stuff
It does not circulate!!- it only goes back and forth in a very limited area- so each time you open the bleeder valve- out comes more old fluid
You repeat until all bubbles and all dirty fluid out- then a few sets of clean fluid comes out-- and you are done.
There is no mixing- its all new!!
as you pump the pedal and then open the valve, fluid moves to the calipers - the old stuff is `in front of` the new stuff
It does not circulate!!- it only goes back and forth in a very limited area- so each time you open the bleeder valve- out comes more old fluid
You repeat until all bubbles and all dirty fluid out- then a few sets of clean fluid comes out-- and you are done.
There is no mixing- its all new!!
I'll use a vacuum bleeder when I do mine soon when I rework front brakes- works much better than all that pumping.
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