brake help

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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 06:30 PM
  #1  
pjoseph's Avatar
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brake help

I recently changed my front rotors and pads maybe two weeks ago, to Brembo Blanks with satisfied ceramic pros pads.

To me they do not feel like they are really grabbing like they should when i use the brakes.
Now I do remember gettting some caliper grease on the front of the pads when putting them in but figured it would just burn off?

I posted this earlier and someone said i could clean the pads, so my question is should i try to clean the pads or put new ones in?

thanks
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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If its still weak there are 2 likely things

They are not bedded in yet- Brembo rotors need about 500 miles to get really good- and I am guessing you used one of the pad bedding procedures found on azine to get that started
If you had mass quantities of caliper grease on the pads~ pull the pads and wipe with brake-carb cleaner and wipe the rotors off too
no need to replace the pads
You did clean the rotors with carb spray before install right? there is a protective coating on them that has to be removed by hand cleaning
here are bedding instructions that work for most types of pads/rotors found on TLs
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899

Good luck PM me if you still have prob
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 06:15 AM
  #3  
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Well i drive about 60 miles a day total just for work so that alone will be around 600 miles.

Yes i cleaned the rotors before i put them on, and i did attempt the bed in procedure as much as i could.

I guess i will clean them next weekend, the thing was I could not get that bolt off that allows the caliper to slide up to change the pads the bolt just was spinning and i was not sure where to grab the other side.
So since i was swapping rotors i just took off the entire caliper and slid the pads in from the inside so that is why i got greese on them.

Thanks again for the info
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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I would read the link above and do the procedure described
There is more to bedding the pads and rotors than just the miles
You need to ~use them with intent~- especially the big brembos,-
need to condition the rotors and transfer a layer of pad material to the rotor

By now any grease is history- fix the real prob and all will be well.
You know they are beddding in when a blue tint appears on the rotors!
that means it took some heat to accomplish this- not driving in traffic miles

Excelerate also published a new bedding procedure thats very comprehensive
-see his threads
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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Well I followed the bed in process as much as possible and as i was pulling in my driveway i noticed a smell in the car probally from the brakes getting hot hopefully i did not overdue it.
Anyway i do notice an improvement now.

Thanks for your help i appreciate it.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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I should have mentioned- you want the hot brake smell during the pad bedding- that means they are finally hot enough to transfer a layer of pad material to the rotor- which is why you do that cooling off drive to let is set up on there real nice

read articles by excelerate and mrheeltoe on pad beding
It can take 2 or 3 bedding procedure attempts to really make the brakes start working- then ,,,you get real brakes!
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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Yea i was wondering if i should do it again, since I only began to smell the brakes after the last stop was i taking it to easy?

thanks again for your help
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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Honestly there should be no need to have to do it at all (unless you plan on tracking the car) If there was a need the manufacturer of the car would have you do it and they dont. Grease on the pad= Did you bleed the brakes before or after the brake install??
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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I just ordered Brembo Blanks with Hawk HPS pads. Hopefully they bite better than my stock ones.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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I only know about a few brands of high performance pads- and each of them has come with instructions specific to them.
OE type pads and basic ceramic replacements on plain rotors- the old school way of- drive them easy to normal without locking them up for first 500 miles is a good rule.

High performance pads/rotors are a different scenario- they even need to be driven different, as Kris well knows through his many track days.

Personally- I dont think OE quality level, and my writings are aimed at the racer mentality crowd among us.
Sorry if that has caused confusion on my parts recommendations or procedures
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