I purchased a battery relocation kit to make my wieght distribution a bit better (do any of you know just how terrible the distribution is? especially sc cars) I was curious if I were to get a hyper grounding system which i always wanted would it work after the relocation of the battery

 

Most grounding kits run 4 wires from a main plate mounted to the inner fender or frame rail in the engine compartment

On a remounted battery, You would run a seperate cable from the battery to a nearby ground point, plus the main neg battery cable has to have a solid ground point right there as well

The other points of attachment are places like an exhaust bolt, ps pump bolt, alternator mounting, engine block bolt etc---
you can run indiviual wires from each point to its own ground, or run them all to one mounting point, doesnt matter just looks cleaner
You can make your own grounding kit with a few parts
Use low resistance wires, in some cases thats a braided - bare flat wire

Look around the car and see what its using now, and check out an older car to see how things were done back in the day- often simple ideas work the best

remember you are trying to get more grounds, not a `looped` from one part to the next and back to the battery- thats not eficient or doing what you want
Sure it looks cool but....the frame or body panel is an actual ground- the battery is not the stopping point of electricity- the neg cable goes to the engine/trans case usually

 

How big of a difference does it make relocating the battery to the trunk? And what are the differences?

 

Well our tl batteries probably wiegh close to a hundred pounds, so, relocating it to the trunk will help with wieght distribution, which gives better traction. And clears up so room in the engince bay! I already started on it. Probably finish tonight.

 

100 pounds???- I think you need to put it on a bathroom scale~

while I have not weighed a gen3 batt- every other battery I ever picked up in this size weighed about 40 pound MAX!

if you autocross race the car- you will notice the differance of removing weight off a front wheel
For the average street driver- just make yourself a grounding kit or buy the 100 buck ground kit and leave the battery alone
It will make the car run better

 

There is NO way our batteries way close to 100lbs. 40 yes. Optimas which are heavy weigh in at under 40 lbs.

want to relocate the batteries, get the Optima Red top 6v batteries (2 of them to create 12v) smaller and can place lower or in smaller spots.

 

Two more things to consider. First, you will need cable substantially beefier than what goes from the oe battery to the starter. I think 2 gauge is about right for the 10 or so feet from the battery to the starter. The best way to ground it is another 2 gauge cable from the battery to the engine block, preferably the factory location. Two ga. is a guess, when in doubt, bigger is better. Second, you should consider a sealed battery, or one that has a vent nipple you can route outside the trunk. I like fasttyms idea of optimas as they are almost completely sealed.

 

I dont know exactly how much it wieghs Im just putting a number out there. Maybe it is 40lbs I dont know. But anyways I bought a buddy club racing battery and spec condenser. This battery only wieghs 16.4 lbs!

 

And removing weight from the front of the car will make you lose traction when launching. Only cause its FWD, if it was RWD moving it to the rear would be more benficial, or if your an autoXer like 01tl4tl sed

 

You just contradicted your whole reasoning for doing this by using a lightweight battery.


yep

 

take pics while your doing the relocation.

 

benefits of a grounding kit? we looking at better throttle response? brighter dome lights?

 

Not contradicting at all. Instead of having a 50 pound battery up front I will have a 16 pound batter in the rear. I would rather shift 16 pounds to the rear then 50 pounds. So again its not contradicting, its actually like eliminating the battery.

Also I dont think I will suffer from any traction issue. Our cars are quick but dont have enough power for traction to be an issue anyways. Besides, have any of you ever looked to see exactly where your engine sits in the chassis? In front of the drive wheels practically an a couple inches from the bumper. So if anything it needs some wieght off the front. Also my car is lowered and has really sticky tires. I turn off the traction and floor the gas trying to break the wheels loose and I can't.

I actually finished the project a couple of days ago. If your very familiar with your car you can tell a difference when cornering at higher speeds. The car feels very well balanced. I put the battery as far back right corner near the jack. Well worth the small amount of about 40 dollars. Next I want to buy a CF hood off of Ebay. I really want a 50/50 wieght distribution. I know thats impossible but atleast somewhere around there. I believe our cars are 59/41 or something like that.

 

Wouldn't you get closer to a 50/50 weight distribution with a heavier battery in the back?

 

yea if he kept the stock hood on, if he goes CF it would b better...

I dont agree with his statement about the car nt being powerful enough not to spin though. I can spin all the way thru 1st and half of 2nd without even trying. And I have extremely stick summer tires on. Thats just my tho

 

Where'd you get the battery?

 

Not really. Shaving weight is good, also shifting some of it rear ward is also good.

 

Then you have a problem. Even my TL-P would spin the tires (GoodYear Eagle F1 GS-D3 225/50/16)

Now with the manual traction is very hard to get in 1st and 2nd. I even spin them into 3rd. I have 235s and they are sticky tires

 

If you can't spin your tires you're not stepping on it hard or you have some engine problems robbing you of power. Also I don't believe the weight distribution is 59/41 like one posted said. I believe it's 56/44 or somewhere around there. Not too bad really. I think our cars handle pretty well.

I do love your idea about trying to get closer to 50/50 which is ideal IMO for any car if handling is your #1 objective. In our cars I'd say 53/47 would be perfect so you don't experience major traction issues and still have a killer handling FW driver.

 

True, but if was trying to get closest to the 50/50, he would be closer without the lightweight battery.

 

I think my broken motor mounts and need of a valve adjustment have something to do with mine not being able to do a decent burnout.

(or the 225/35/19 Yoko S-Drives)

 

Lighter weight is better than 50/50. 50/50 wont make you faster, helps in the handling but weight does both.

 

My car has absolutly no problem with power. I walk all over people on the highway on my way to class. Now if i had bad tires than yeah i would spin the crap out of them. I have no problem off the line, my car actually feels much faster than other tl-s ive driven. All my mods so far are:
H&R sport springs
eibach anti roll bar
battery relocation
k&n filter
only use 93 oct gas and change full synthetic oil 5k.

so my car is pretty quick, well atleast i think. Im guessing it has maybe 220 to the wheels, but not sure, never been dynoed. My next mods are dc sports headers and CF hood and CF front splitters. When i have the time and money i want to make a rear diffuser, but im still debating on that.

 

stock tl-s engine's dyno around 200 on average, you're K&N filter may give you 1-2 whp.

 

if youre purely looking for performance then you should concentrate on a lot more things before wasting all that cash on a cf hood and splitters.

like maybe an intake...

 

btw did you ever get pics of the new rims you got from that f430 guy?