Well it has been a hard install for me all because of the 3 bolts that connect the downpipe to the CAT. If I had had a torch welder I would of just burned them out, but since I didn't I had to cut and drill them out and that will be one of the most memorable times in my life. All I can say to Honda for using pressed in bolts is

Anyway back on topic. Here's the product



The headers and down pipe were easy to remove. Now one thing I have to note is that the socket sizes mentioned in the instructions were wrong. They had 8mm & 10mm. Im not sure what that was all about...maybe for the CL?

Here you just have to remove 3 - 12mm bolts. Repeat for rear heat shield.



Here is the manifold. Remove the 5 - 12mm bolts. Use a 4 point socket to reduce the risk of stripping them. I was able to use a 12 point, but It got hairy a few times.



Here is the front downpipe. Remove 3 - 14mm bolts for front and rear section. I would highly recommend using an impact wrench for these. It will give a feeling of accomplishment and prepare you for some harder work.




Ahh here is where it gets harder. You might or might not have major issues here, but if these bolts are so rusted that you cannot see that a thread exists on these bolts (like mine) then you just might have a lot of work ahead of you. These are 3 - 14mm bolts. Try heating them untill they are supper hot and then try to remove them.



If that doesnt work then cut them on both sides using a metal cutting disk on a dremel or rotozip. If you have a torch welder then simply burn them out. You will need titanium drill bits. Start small and work your way up to a 10mm bit max. This is after they are cut.



Here they are drilled out. You will need 3 - M10 1.25 X40 bolts and nuts. Grade 10 nuts and 10.9 for the bolts.



Here is the downpipe conencted to both headers and the CAT. Before you install the down pipe, bend it back and forth to loosen it up. I don't know if this will make a difference, but no need to chance it.





Here its kinda tight around the oil pan.



So make sure you have this tight.



Here they are installed.



Tools needed
Required:
12mm & 14mm sockets and wrenches
rachet extensions
small tip strait head screwdriver
torch

Recommended:
impact wrench
impact sockets
rachet yolk for reaching at angles
10mm wrench to remove the bracket holding the pre CAT O2 sensor
torque rachet

Blanket to cover the front of car while working on it. I climbed up on top and leaned over the IM to reach the bolts for the rear headers.

Summary:
After everything was installed I started up the car and immediately noticed the difference. It was actually more quite, but at a cost. For the first time I could actually here the valves tapping slightly and I could here a purging sound from the black box in the rear under the pass. seat....I can't remember what its called. I had never heard that before...weird.

Took the car for a drive and it is sooo much more responsive. I didn't WOT, but from the throttle I did give it, it moved! For a minute I thought I heard a hissing sound then realized it was my speakers hissing

ProvidenceLeaf, I don't have any vibration. The only place that the headers have tight clearence is by the oil pan and where the downpipe connects to the rear header, but nothing is touching. Just check to see that the header hanger is secure on the downpipe. That rubber should absorb a lot of the vibration you might get

Also if you plan on replacing the heater valve on the firewall, now is the best time!
Next up is my brake system.

 

Great DIY!!!!

Thanks for the update...too bad about those bolts that you had to drill out. I had to heat them up a lot before they budged (I thought I was going to melt them, they got soooo orange) Oh well, others will learn from our mistakes!

I'm glad that you don't have any issues. I feel better about that now. I can't wait until I'm up and back from this surgery so I can work on my car and figure out where I have to tweek the headers. It's such a small noise...It's just noticeable and driving me crazy. Since you didn't have an issue it should be a quick fix for me.

Once again thanks for the update...good job.

 

Nice DIY. Mark, how did the surgery go? Feeling better? I see you did the headers yourself; ready to tackle the suspension? This install reminds me of the days helping friends out in my garage and the stubborn bolts that just would not budge. Well you got it done and it I'm sure it feels good to DIY and have 30 extra hp (if you have a Type S).

 

great write up w/ pics.

too bad DC sports and comptech didnt make a upper heat shield to put over these to keep under hood temps down but then again, i guess the ceramic coating will help a little.

if i decide to do this, im gonna send my headers off to jethot coatings for their services.

 

did you have to use a crows foot to get to the header-->downpipe bolts? just wondering if i need to go pick one up for the install. thanks a lot.

 

A crows foot would never have the torque ability to loosen them. Use a 10" extention bar and a breaker bar if you don't have an impact wrench.

 

No need for a heat shield. The ceramic coating is the heat shield and is noticeably cooler then the stock system with a heat shield.

 

Great DIY!
Hey of the 2 manifold pieces, which 1 had the bigger bend in it the front or the rear?
The one on the right, is that the front or rear????

 

The one on the right is the front header. I think it has a bigger bend on the left so it clears the compressor. Where do you need clearence on the 6 speed conversion?

 

nice,great write up I'm going to get mine this week I might even try myself after reading this

 

Dude..you're stll holding out on these?

I didn't wait like I first said a few weeks ago. I was "pushed" into buying them the day after I wrote the "let me know how you like them" post.

 

Nice DIY...

 

Damn. The larger bend need s to be in the rear for the motor mount

 

yeah i saw fsstym1 give us the motivation ,I'm in the process now of finding them for a good price.....

 

You can DOOOOEEET!

 

Has anyone figured out if the DC headers fit the six speed yet??

 

That movie is such a horrible misrepresentation of Southern Louisiana culture...

sorry

 

Thank God for DCsports! I'll be picking these up as soon as they get CARB certified. Just hope it don't take to long

 

All night long?

 

dyum that suck i had no problem getting mines off

 

If some one wants to send me the rear manifold before they install it, i can check to see while my motor is out

 

The guy at dc sports said its not auto tranny specific so it should fit a 6 speed to.

 

Can anyone tell me if they have had issues with the gaskets on each header to down pipe? I had to replace both of mine already and I'm hoping it was just a bad set from DC. You'll know it because you can smell the exhaust up near the engine and hear the sound. Thanks.

-Jakester

 

Did you torque the bolts? Typically large bolts are under tightened and small bolts are over tightened. Use one of these:

 

None of the others headers are. The manual has a much different engine mount that requires a big bend to clear it

 

I called tech support and asked them and that's what the guy said.

 

O2 simulator/fouler needed when installing the DC Header? Are extensions needed/included with header?

 

It is not a race header so the cat is not eliminated so there is no need for a 02 simulator. What do you mean by extensions?

 

Does DC make a race header? Or is this the only version? When I installed my DCRH on my K20, 02 extensions were included.

 

Nice write up. I still have my DC header sitting in the garage in the unopened box. I am still undecided whether to do it myself of go to the muffler shop.

optomos, I have all the tools you mentioned on your DYI (except for the torch). How hard was the installation if you are going by yourself? I might be able to get my wife to hold on the header while I unscrew it from the bottom but that's about it.

 

Its very easy. The torch shoudnt be needed. You shouldnt need any one to hold any thing either

 

Its the only version. The bung for teh o2 is welded on. You dont need a emulator or any extensions. You may want to look into the XS header. Its got better flanges

 

Not too mention about half price also.....here's the original thread from the CL section ,check it out Shark.


https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180508

 

Thanks. I am going to plan for a weekend and also get a 6-pack for this job. The wife can drive the SUV (weekend vehicle) for a day or two. I also need replace my front rotors with Rotora since the stock rotors are getting warrped again after 60K+ miles. The rotors job may need to wait.

 

If you don't run into any rust issues, you will be fine. You might even have time to do the rotors since you will have the car raised off the ground anyway. Have fun!