FuriousSam

Hi all,

I am going to bite the bullet and work on the EGR port cleaning. I figured I'll get the ThermoBlok Spacers as well since it includes all the gaskets and bolts.

I am wondering what type and brand of torque wrench I should get to ensure I don't overtighten the bolts when I put the manifold back on.

Thanks,

-- Sam

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

i just got what was available at pep boys.

02TL4ATL

iTrader: (1)

im not to sure what brand you should get for torque wrench but as for cleaning the egr port, its a relatively easy thing to do. when youre done cleaning the EGR and tightening the bolts, re-torque manifold bolts after a few hundred miles as they come out of spec.

fsttyms1

sears sells decent ones.

fsttyms1

If torqued properly and in the correct sequence they should NOT come out of spec.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

+1 Craftsman ftw

Skirmich

Ive got a Beam Type for small Ft Torque...
And a Click-Type for more Stronger Torque.

EGR Port/Manifold and Small Nuts (10mm, 12mm, 9mm.) Should be Torqued with a Beam Type which is Good cuz the Beam Type is usually Cheaper than any Click Type from its simplicity.


MORE INFO:

Click-Type usually have a Higher small Torque starts at +50ft to +250ft in most cases....


Beam Types have lower Tighten Torque usually from 0 to 150ft.

jplasse

as most stated, any will work just fine... whether it be Craftsman or something from Harbor Freight.

Being a mechanic, Ive matched friends cheapo's to Snap On and Cornwell brand torque wrenches and they are all very close. Unless you are constantly building motors and need all torque specs dead on, anything will suffice for this type of job. Good luck

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

After a little research, I found a couple interesting points. Many $200 torque wrenches DON'T come with a lifetime warranty. Craftsman and such only have 90 days or something like that. I think Snap On has a lifetime, but I'm not sure.

I ended up getting a harbor freight one, because it DOES come with a lifetime warranty. Also it's only $20. Obviously, if you are going to use it on a daily basis, I would go Snap On.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

If you're not doing any internal engine work, no need to break the bank.

Any will work fine. Harbor freight for low end, Craftsman and Husky make decent ones for a reasonable price.

gold2003tl (90)

craftsman beam style for important stuff like intake manifold and lug nuts. i use a harbor freight click stop for just about everything else.

beam style are more precise, and let you "see" the tq build as its being applied. they are also better when tightening in steps since there is no re-adjusting. only down side to beam styles are they don't ratchet, and they need to be oriented so you can read the dial.

also, i agree with kirs on the intake manifold. they wont loosen if they are tighten properly. iv checked mine multiple times after reading how some of you said they loosen up after 500-1k miles or so, and all were dead on spec.

FuriousSam

Thanks all! I have purchased a bean type. I read in the DIY guide that I need to plug up the hose where there's coolant when I remove it from the manifold, is it pressurized and can I just use a clamp for that?

Thanks again,

-- Sam

webmastir

you could use a clamp i suppose(possibly bad for the hose if no no rag or something protective used on clamp ends?).
best bet is to use a bolt of some sort. not a whole lot should leak out anyway. i had a bolt that wasn't big enough to stay in on its own so used that bolt + a small strip of duct tape to hold it in. didn't have any issues

01tl4tl

a spare bolt in the end of both the hoses
remember to open heater fully when burping coolant system

self calibrate your torque wrench by setting it to tighten
apply to intake bolt, try to tighen with it set at 10,12,14 etc
it clicks at the set torque--the book says 16, now you know what the tool says at that tightness,,use that number when you install and torque

tip: on the new studs for thermospacer- use 2 nuts tightened against each other-locked together, then use a wrench on lower nut to spin the entire stud out
pliers or similar create metal shavings= bad to have those loose!!
work smarter