What oil and filter to use
07-02-2004, 08:19 PM
#2
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mobil 1 5w30 synthetic and m104 filter, you get 8 to 10,000 miles between changes
07-03-2004, 09:42 AM
#5
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I don't race my TL-S - it's my daily driver commuting 53 freeway miles roundtrip, As such, I use Castrol GTX 5/20wt (buy it on sale with rebate for $.89/quart) and one of the following filters (again, what I find on sale):
Honda
Fram 3593A
Penzoil PZ33
K&N HP1004
STP S3950
Mobil M1-104
or oversized
WalMart ST3950
Fram 7950
Mobil One M1-105
Change every 3,750 miles (twice as often as the recommended 7,500 mile interval)
Honda
Fram 3593A
Penzoil PZ33
K&N HP1004
STP S3950
Mobil M1-104
or oversized
WalMart ST3950
Fram 7950
Mobil One M1-105
Change every 3,750 miles (twice as often as the recommended 7,500 mile interval)
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07-04-2004, 04:15 AM
#11
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good ol' olive oil and cheese cloth over a coke can with an extra hole punched in on top!
i go with the coke products, i find pepsi cans fit very loose and crush easily!
P.S. if you want extra h.p. go with a can of Red Bull in with your gas. It works wonders, adds 5 h.p.
i go with the coke products, i find pepsi cans fit very loose and crush easily!
P.S. if you want extra h.p. go with a can of Red Bull in with your gas. It works wonders, adds 5 h.p.
07-04-2004, 05:33 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by eh!curaplus
good ol' olive oil and cheese cloth over a coke can with an extra hole punched in on top!
i go with the coke products, i find pepsi cans fit very loose and crush easily!
P.S. if you want extra h.p. go with a can of Red Bull in with your gas. It works wonders, adds 5 h.p.
i go with the coke products, i find pepsi cans fit very loose and crush easily!
P.S. if you want extra h.p. go with a can of Red Bull in with your gas. It works wonders, adds 5 h.p.
07-04-2004, 08:18 AM
#14
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I don't change my own oil always had dealer service with one exception & that was power steering flush & condition. I took it then to ACURA/HONDA service center last summer they use to work on my 90 & 94 ACCORDs.
But I had the dealer put my own Mobile 1, 5W-30 fully synthetic motor oil with the HONDA filter. They also put the BG products MOA oil treatment in that the dealer has used every other oil change. This is added at mileage like 15K, 30K, 45K service intervals or it could be added every oil change depending on mileage between change. But now I will be taking my car in for service at a famous area shop & they do use the Mobil oil filters & I can bring my own oil. But I can tell the difference between regular oil & the Mobil 1. The car started very easy during the cold winter months. Iam not saying it was hard to start before but I could tell a slight difference in the way the car started. This was over the previous 3years that I had my 2000TL with regular oil befor I made the change last fall.
But I had the dealer put my own Mobile 1, 5W-30 fully synthetic motor oil with the HONDA filter. They also put the BG products MOA oil treatment in that the dealer has used every other oil change. This is added at mileage like 15K, 30K, 45K service intervals or it could be added every oil change depending on mileage between change. But now I will be taking my car in for service at a famous area shop & they do use the Mobil oil filters & I can bring my own oil. But I can tell the difference between regular oil & the Mobil 1. The car started very easy during the cold winter months. Iam not saying it was hard to start before but I could tell a slight difference in the way the car started. This was over the previous 3years that I had my 2000TL with regular oil befor I made the change last fall.
07-04-2004, 05:56 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
I used to use Honda stock filter for my oil change till 20k miles where I switch to AC Delco. No sure how big was the different but I have not had any problem. In my opinion, any decent filter will do.
Cheers !!!
Cheers !!!
07-04-2004, 11:05 PM
#17
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Mobil 1 is the way to go
Yeah i use Mobil 1 Synthetic.......i believe it's pretty high up there quality wise. not sure of the filter....try out M1. good luck.
07-05-2004, 08:56 AM
#19
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Dem1K
i use the Mobil 1 5w30 and M1-105 (oversize) filter...what's my range to change the oil? Between 5-10k? Could I pull off 7500 or should I stick with 5000?
07-05-2004, 02:21 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
7-10k. if you are worried about driving that long on your oil get a sample kit from blackstone labs and have it tested to see. i go 10k on mine and i am considered "SEVERE" driving
07-05-2004, 06:45 PM
#21
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by tpatel
hey, do you change your own oil?! i pay like 50 bucks at jiffy lube or acura to have my oil changed. i use mobile 1, its getting kinda expensive.
07-05-2004, 10:04 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
i never let anyone touch my car, i do every thing myself. plus its alot cheaper that way!
07-05-2004, 11:06 PM
#23
What your problem is?
tpatel:
Here is a DIY on how to change your oil:
First get a set of ramps I bought mine since my car is not dropped or does not have ground kits. You can get a set from Sears or Walmart:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Purchase oil and an oil filter of your choice.
Drive your car onto the ramp and then chock the car. You do tyhis by placing a pair of bricks behind the two rear tires.
Open the hood.
Unscrew the engine oil cap.
After doing this, you get under the car and you locate the plug from the oil tank. This plug needs to be removed and the oil that comes out will need to be drained into a shallow pan of some kind. I actually have an oil pan. After you unscrew the plug it will drain into the pan. Wait till the majority of the oil has drained and wait for a slow trickle before proceeding to the next step.
Since the oil draining from the oil tank has slowed to a trickle, replace the screw, do not tighten it, just make sure no oil can drain from it (you will remove, again, it in a bit)
A good amount of the oil will be located in the oil filter, you will need to locate the oil filter and remove this filter. The oil filter will require some effort. One must use either an oil wrench and/or an oil wrench. (I utilize the wrench since I have multiple cars that I do maintanenace on) Grab the oil filter with the wrench and unscrew this filter to remove it. Oil will begin to drain from the filter.
At this point unscrew and remove the screw to the oil tank and you will note that some more oil will begin to drain from the tank again.
MAKE SURE YOU CAPTURE ALL OIL IN THE DRAIN PAN!!!
(you will note that the entire time we have unscrewed and removed the engine oil cap. We left this cap off so that a vaccuum is created and the engine can completely drain itself)
I usually wait about 10min before I replace the screw to the oil tank underneath the car. After replacing this screw you will need to also replace the oil filter.
Take the new oil filter and put a light amount of oil around the gasket found on the new filter. Screw the new oil filter in place. Only hand tighten the oil filter. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!!!!
Now that the screw to the oil tank is in place and the new oil filter is in place, you will need to start putting in the new oil. Remove all tools and drain pans from underneath the vehicle.
Put the correct amount of oil into the engine via the engine opening. After the correct amount of oil is placed into the engine, replace the engine oil cap.
Unchock the the car (remove the two bricks) and drive the car off the ramp. I usually leave the car running and then clean up my work are, this usually takes about 5-10minutes (enough time for the car to warm up)
Check the oil level and you should be good to go.... either that or add more oil....
For the beginner, I would advise you to purposely put about a quart less into the vehicle when you have the car on the ramp. This way there is no way for you to be able to overfill the engne with oil. Then when you lower the car off the ramp you can check the oil on level surface.... and add the correct amount of oil.....
NEVER OVERFILL THE ENGINE WITH OIL..... overfilling can lead to gasket damage and other problems.....
I hope this helps for you beginners.... you will be amazed how much money you save and how much you learn by doing things yourself.... Good Luck...
Here is a DIY on how to change your oil:
First get a set of ramps I bought mine since my car is not dropped or does not have ground kits. You can get a set from Sears or Walmart:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Purchase oil and an oil filter of your choice.
Drive your car onto the ramp and then chock the car. You do tyhis by placing a pair of bricks behind the two rear tires.
Open the hood.
Unscrew the engine oil cap.
After doing this, you get under the car and you locate the plug from the oil tank. This plug needs to be removed and the oil that comes out will need to be drained into a shallow pan of some kind. I actually have an oil pan. After you unscrew the plug it will drain into the pan. Wait till the majority of the oil has drained and wait for a slow trickle before proceeding to the next step.
Since the oil draining from the oil tank has slowed to a trickle, replace the screw, do not tighten it, just make sure no oil can drain from it (you will remove, again, it in a bit)
A good amount of the oil will be located in the oil filter, you will need to locate the oil filter and remove this filter. The oil filter will require some effort. One must use either an oil wrench and/or an oil wrench. (I utilize the wrench since I have multiple cars that I do maintanenace on) Grab the oil filter with the wrench and unscrew this filter to remove it. Oil will begin to drain from the filter.
At this point unscrew and remove the screw to the oil tank and you will note that some more oil will begin to drain from the tank again.
MAKE SURE YOU CAPTURE ALL OIL IN THE DRAIN PAN!!!
(you will note that the entire time we have unscrewed and removed the engine oil cap. We left this cap off so that a vaccuum is created and the engine can completely drain itself)
I usually wait about 10min before I replace the screw to the oil tank underneath the car. After replacing this screw you will need to also replace the oil filter.
Take the new oil filter and put a light amount of oil around the gasket found on the new filter. Screw the new oil filter in place. Only hand tighten the oil filter. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!!!!
Now that the screw to the oil tank is in place and the new oil filter is in place, you will need to start putting in the new oil. Remove all tools and drain pans from underneath the vehicle.
Put the correct amount of oil into the engine via the engine opening. After the correct amount of oil is placed into the engine, replace the engine oil cap.
Unchock the the car (remove the two bricks) and drive the car off the ramp. I usually leave the car running and then clean up my work are, this usually takes about 5-10minutes (enough time for the car to warm up)
Check the oil level and you should be good to go.... either that or add more oil....
For the beginner, I would advise you to purposely put about a quart less into the vehicle when you have the car on the ramp. This way there is no way for you to be able to overfill the engne with oil. Then when you lower the car off the ramp you can check the oil on level surface.... and add the correct amount of oil.....
NEVER OVERFILL THE ENGINE WITH OIL..... overfilling can lead to gasket damage and other problems.....
I hope this helps for you beginners.... you will be amazed how much money you save and how much you learn by doing things yourself.... Good Luck...
07-06-2004, 01:24 AM
#24
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Mobil One, Honda Filter
Use to use Fram and other brands, but Honda makes the best seals on the cans.
Stupid seal stuck to the mount during one oil change and I failed to notice it. The oil leaked all over after I started the car.
I change my synthetic oil out every 6k-7k, so I don't think the filter is all that big of a deal. I find very little grit in the use oil after each change, and the oil doesn't look like sludge.
Use to use Fram and other brands, but Honda makes the best seals on the cans.
Stupid seal stuck to the mount during one oil change and I failed to notice it. The oil leaked all over after I started the car.
I change my synthetic oil out every 6k-7k, so I don't think the filter is all that big of a deal. I find very little grit in the use oil after each change, and the oil doesn't look like sludge.
07-06-2004, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
10W30 or 5W30 depending on season w/ M1-105 oversize filter.
Anybody correct me if I am wrong.
02-05-2008, 02:34 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by MurdaZ
oem ftw..
.
.
...cough.. crap..cough..
02-05-2008, 05:57 PM
#32
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Mobil 5w 30 with the Mobil filter. I just change mine every 7500 miles. I reset my maintenance light when I change it so this helps keep me on track. All seems to be good so far - I have been doing this for the past 70k miles
02-06-2008, 08:21 AM
#36
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Mobil 1 5W-20 & Fram oil filter: You can buy it @ Walmart aprox $22.00 5 Quart container. fsttyms1 is right. By changing your own oil. Your assured it's done right & save money as well. Our Acura's are easy to maintain. Our TL-S uses less than a quarter of a quart between oil changes.
02-06-2008, 09:16 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by MurdaZ
oem ftw..
hard to find the good stuff here, all we got is cheap shit like fram, quakerstate, valvoline etc..
hard to find the good stuff here, all we got is cheap shit like fram, quakerstate, valvoline etc..
Time for glasses?
Wix, Amsoil, Mobil1.....you keep using that OEM quality
02-06-2008, 10:22 AM
#38
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Time for glasses?
Wix, Amsoil, Mobil1.....you keep using that OEM quality
Wix, Amsoil, Mobil1.....you keep using that OEM quality
see post 30Side note though i see no reason to buy expensive filters either.
