Wash after clay bar?
10-12-2003, 12:55 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Wash after clay bar?
Wassup guys,
today I picked up a mother's clay bar. It says on the instructions to spray the instant shine on an area, then rub it down with the clay bar. Once the car was completely filled with marks, i maguired it with the 3 step process. I got a good shine, but not the best one. Should I have washed it after using the clay bar? I also bought the eagle one car wash, which is dark red in colour, comes in a 1.89L bottle, and came with a sample of the eagle one wax as u dry.
did I not wax the car properly?
today I picked up a mother's clay bar. It says on the instructions to spray the instant shine on an area, then rub it down with the clay bar. Once the car was completely filled with marks, i maguired it with the 3 step process. I got a good shine, but not the best one. Should I have washed it after using the clay bar? I also bought the eagle one car wash, which is dark red in colour, comes in a 1.89L bottle, and came with a sample of the eagle one wax as u dry.
did I not wax the car properly?
10-12-2003, 12:59 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
well basically I wiped down the car with a terry cloth, so it was completely dry. i figured something went wrong, my shine just wasn't what it should have been, and I found the 3 step process was sooooo hard to rub in. It kept leaving smudge marks all over the car. It took me like 6 hours in total, and I'm not 100% satisfied with the job!!! I guess I'll do it again tomorrow!
10-12-2003, 01:16 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I would do like a panel. For instance, I sprayed the show time s*it on the car, then I would clay a large area, like the driver side door, and the rear door, then I would wipe it down with a terry cloth. This left a lot of smudges, and made it look like I hadn't even washed my cars.
Then I used the paint cleaner (step 1 in maguires), and continued on from there with step 2 and 3. Do you have to wash after clay barring? I think in the future i will wait to use the clay bar. I don't think my car requires it, since it's pretty new. I only have 15 000 km on it, and it's like 6 months old. I'll hold onto the clay bar and use it again when i think I need it.
Then I used the paint cleaner (step 1 in maguires), and continued on from there with step 2 and 3. Do you have to wash after clay barring? I think in the future i will wait to use the clay bar. I don't think my car requires it, since it's pretty new. I only have 15 000 km on it, and it's like 6 months old. I'll hold onto the clay bar and use it again when i think I need it.
10-12-2003, 02:59 AM
#6
Instructor
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I saw that three step thing in the store, looked like a lot of work.
I just use a regular paste wax (Meguiars Gold Class) the old fashioned way going one panel at a time and buffing with an old t-shirt, and it shines like new for months on end with just regular soap and water washings.
I just use a regular paste wax (Meguiars Gold Class) the old fashioned way going one panel at a time and buffing with an old t-shirt, and it shines like new for months on end with just regular soap and water washings.
10-12-2003, 06:08 AM
#7
Pro
well you should wash after you clay to get all that excess clay off the car.......but why do you bother with the 3 step process? zaino would be so much better.......i have tried both and i just think zaino has a better shine...it may be a little more work...but worth it 
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10-12-2003, 08:13 AM
#8
New Life
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You did it right is just that each section you have to lubricate it real good and then wipe off all the excess.
The clay bar was meant to take off all the impurities off the clear coat not the paint, if you ever get to the paint itself you went too far and is time to re-finish clear coat.
I use Meguiars polish when I see hard spots around or tar from the road etc., then I use that Wax as You Dry and the car is always shiny and very smooth.
The real trick in waxing is the rags that you use and how clean they are. Our cars are all pretty much new so excessive rubbing is not necessary and if you keep it clean most of the time the accumulation of hard spots and other contaminants should be minimum.
And remember that at least once a year you should strip all that accumulated wax before it turns yellow and crack.
The clay bar was meant to take off all the impurities off the clear coat not the paint, if you ever get to the paint itself you went too far and is time to re-finish clear coat.
I use Meguiars polish when I see hard spots around or tar from the road etc., then I use that Wax as You Dry and the car is always shiny and very smooth.
The real trick in waxing is the rags that you use and how clean they are. Our cars are all pretty much new so excessive rubbing is not necessary and if you keep it clean most of the time the accumulation of hard spots and other contaminants should be minimum.
And remember that at least once a year you should strip all that accumulated wax before it turns yellow and crack.
10-12-2003, 08:15 AM
#9
Still sluggin' it out
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You could wash after you clay; I'm assuming you washed BEFORE you clayed hopefully...after claying the car (and washing and drying if desired) use a cleaner polish, buff that out, then use a carnauba wax like meguire's or mothers for the BEST results hands down...
GOOD LUCK
GOOD LUCK
10-12-2003, 09:52 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
yah I did wipe everything down after using the clay bar. Most likely the reason I didn't get the greatest results was because I didn't wash it after I clay barred.
Another queston if you guys don't mind...Should I clay bar even if it's not needed? Will it give me that extra shine? Or should I simply wash the car and then use maguire's pain cleaner, polish and wax and on occassion use the clay bar?
What do you guys think? BTW I tried the little bottle of Carnuba wax that came in the kit with the clay bar, showtime instant shine, and that tiny bottle of natural carnuba wax, and I wasn't impressed with it at all. I think that the maguire's leaves a way way better shine.
Another queston if you guys don't mind...Should I clay bar even if it's not needed? Will it give me that extra shine? Or should I simply wash the car and then use maguire's pain cleaner, polish and wax and on occassion use the clay bar?
What do you guys think? BTW I tried the little bottle of Carnuba wax that came in the kit with the clay bar, showtime instant shine, and that tiny bottle of natural carnuba wax, and I wasn't impressed with it at all. I think that the maguire's leaves a way way better shine.
10-12-2003, 01:26 PM
#11
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I just clayed and Zainoed my WDP '03 TL-S for the first time this weekend. I don't bother using the Mother's Instant Detailer as a lubricant. I find that very sudsy water works better. I wash a section at a time, rinse, then suds up an area as I clay. After the paint is smooth, I wash and rinse one last time. After I finish washing and drying, I go over the whole car with the Zaino Gloss Enhancer before puting the Zaino polish on. You'll notice that after using the Gloss Inhancer, the surface is much smoother. If you are using a traditional wax, I would recommend using something like the Mothers Instant Detailer before waxing. You want the surface as smooth and as clean as possible before putting any final protectant coat on. I also find that using the Gloss Enhancer after subsequent washings gives the surface that just waxed smoothness.
10-12-2003, 02:33 PM
#12
Drifting
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there must be something wrong with hoiw your applying the clay...i didnt wash after i clayed and i still got a great shine....you didnt let thet showtime stuff dry on your car did you?...your suppose to spray a small area...clay it...and wipe of whats left..and then move onto the next small area...so you dont let any of the **** dry on your car.
10-12-2003, 03:48 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
When claying a car, lube is the key. If you don't use enough lube, some of the clay may break away from the bar and kind of stick to the car. There's no need to apply too much pressure with the clay itself. I use just the weight of my fingers/hand and slide it along the paint. At first, it may feel a little gritty, but after 1 or 2 passes, it should glide like a melting icecube on a counter top.
I will always wash after I clay. Just my preference. Since I'm a Zaino user, I'll wash (Megs GC or Z7), clay, dawn wash (not more than twice a year), then Z7 wash (to remove any dawn film if any). Then I start with my Zaino steps.
I will always wash after I clay. Just my preference. Since I'm a Zaino user, I'll wash (Megs GC or Z7), clay, dawn wash (not more than twice a year), then Z7 wash (to remove any dawn film if any). Then I start with my Zaino steps.
10-12-2003, 04:52 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
okay so here are the products which I have for my exterior. I'm going to list them randomly, and someone who is a ar enthusiast and who knows a lot about their products, please place the products in the order in which they should be applied to the body.
1) Maguires Paint Cleaner
2) Maguire's polish
3) maguire's wax
4) mother's clay bar
5) Mother's showtime instant detailer
6) Carnuba Car wax (came in kit with clay bar)
7) I have like 10 terry cloths with all this stuff
8) Eagle One 20/20 auto glass cleaner
9) Eagle one tire shine and Eagle One Rim Cleaner (Aluminum and chrome)
10) Chamois (Simoniz)
11) Simoniz wool glove...btw will this add swirl marks?
12) Maguire's Scratch X remover (2 tubes, works amazingly well)
13) Eagle One car wash
14) Eagle one Wax As U Dry
you don't need to use all these products, just list the process I should use to clean the car with this.
1) Maguires Paint Cleaner
2) Maguire's polish
3) maguire's wax
4) mother's clay bar
5) Mother's showtime instant detailer
6) Carnuba Car wax (came in kit with clay bar)
7) I have like 10 terry cloths with all this stuff
8) Eagle One 20/20 auto glass cleaner
9) Eagle one tire shine and Eagle One Rim Cleaner (Aluminum and chrome)
10) Chamois (Simoniz)
11) Simoniz wool glove...btw will this add swirl marks?
12) Maguire's Scratch X remover (2 tubes, works amazingly well)
13) Eagle One car wash
14) Eagle one Wax As U Dry
you don't need to use all these products, just list the process I should use to clean the car with this.
10-12-2003, 06:37 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
sc354, I'm not a pro, but consider myself an enthusiast. I've read a few of your posts regarding car care and most of your ideas are on track.
This is what I'd do with those products listed:
1) Eagle One Car Wash (leave car wet)
2) Mother's Claybar (with lube)
3) Eagle One Car Wash
4) Dry car with Chamois (Simoniz).
4) Meg's Scratch X / Polish / Paint Cleaner
At this stage, you're looking to remove any scratches, swirls, oxidation. In addition, this stage will bring out the shine of the paint.
Depending on the condition of the paint, would determine which one or combo I'd use. Scratch X is usually for required for more work. I'm not sure which Meg's polish you have. I use Meg's Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Mark Removal 2.0. Paint Cleaner is probably the least abrasive.
5) Meg's Car wax.
6) Mother's Showtime Inst. Detailer
All your products are pretty mainstream but are good quality products.
I use the same tire shine and I've heard 20/20 is a really good glass cleaner.
You might want to check out some Microfiber towels.
www.pakshak.com sells some nice ones.
Good Luck and post some pics
This is what I'd do with those products listed:
1) Eagle One Car Wash (leave car wet)
2) Mother's Claybar (with lube)
3) Eagle One Car Wash
4) Dry car with Chamois (Simoniz).
4) Meg's Scratch X / Polish / Paint Cleaner
At this stage, you're looking to remove any scratches, swirls, oxidation. In addition, this stage will bring out the shine of the paint.
Depending on the condition of the paint, would determine which one or combo I'd use. Scratch X is usually for required for more work. I'm not sure which Meg's polish you have. I use Meg's Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Mark Removal 2.0. Paint Cleaner is probably the least abrasive.
5) Meg's Car wax.
6) Mother's Showtime Inst. Detailer
All your products are pretty mainstream but are good quality products.
I use the same tire shine and I've heard 20/20 is a really good glass cleaner.
You might want to check out some Microfiber towels.
www.pakshak.com sells some nice ones.
Good Luck and post some pics
10-12-2003, 09:51 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Here's what I did:
1.) Armor-All or Mother's California Gold Car wash. (just to plainly clean and no wax builup)
2.) Dry with Calfornia Water Blade and Simoniz drying cloth (yellow)
3.) Mother's or Clay Magic rub down. (remove rail-dust and contaminants from the clearcoat) Do this only once per year preferably during first spring cleaning.
4.) Dawn dish detergent (blue) (strip cheap dealer and car wash waxes ** done only once per year after claying)
5.) Dry with Calfornia Water Blade and Simoniz drying cloth (yellow)
6.) Apply Liquid Glass with terry cloth applicator pad
7.) "Wax off" with terry cloth or diaper cloth with both hands (ala Karate kid)
8.) Leave under the sun for about 4 hours to bond LG to paint
9.) Wipe down with damp Simoniz Drying cloth
9.) Buff with Orbital polisher with lamb's wool cover.
10) Apply Meguiar's Endurance tire gel (grape)
11.) Apply Mother's Back to Black trim cleaner (plastic trims inside)
12.) Clean glass with Gunk Foaming glass cleaner inside and out
13.) Tolerate my wife's abuse because I told her we can't use the car after I spent about six hours cleaning it.
I don't go for the several step process. I have used LG for years and swore by it that's why I only use one step (twice per year). As for the instant detailer/ showtime, I use it just to enhance the shine after washing and use a diaper cloth. The Meguiar's endurance tire gel is so good, I only use it every 2-3 weeks.
Vicman
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1.) Armor-All or Mother's California Gold Car wash. (just to plainly clean and no wax builup)
2.) Dry with Calfornia Water Blade and Simoniz drying cloth (yellow)
3.) Mother's or Clay Magic rub down. (remove rail-dust and contaminants from the clearcoat) Do this only once per year preferably during first spring cleaning.
4.) Dawn dish detergent (blue) (strip cheap dealer and car wash waxes ** done only once per year after claying)
5.) Dry with Calfornia Water Blade and Simoniz drying cloth (yellow)
6.) Apply Liquid Glass with terry cloth applicator pad
7.) "Wax off" with terry cloth or diaper cloth with both hands (ala Karate kid)
8.) Leave under the sun for about 4 hours to bond LG to paint
9.) Wipe down with damp Simoniz Drying cloth
9.) Buff with Orbital polisher with lamb's wool cover.
10) Apply Meguiar's Endurance tire gel (grape)
11.) Apply Mother's Back to Black trim cleaner (plastic trims inside)
12.) Clean glass with Gunk Foaming glass cleaner inside and out
13.) Tolerate my wife's abuse because I told her we can't use the car after I spent about six hours cleaning it.
I don't go for the several step process. I have used LG for years and swore by it that's why I only use one step (twice per year). As for the instant detailer/ showtime, I use it just to enhance the shine after washing and use a diaper cloth. The Meguiar's endurance tire gel is so good, I only use it every 2-3 weeks.
Vicman
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10-12-2003, 10:25 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
hey guys. I was noticing you all use dawn dish soap to remove the wax after the year. I was thinking that after the winter, when spring comes around I wanna strip all my excess wax from the year before and add a new coat of this stuff. What's the exact product name of this soap? and do I simply pour some into a bucket with water and use the simoniz wool glove to put it on the car?
any info is appreciated.
thanks guys you're the best!
any info is appreciated.
thanks guys you're the best!
10-12-2003, 10:32 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Just get Dawn Dish soap. The plain blue stuff. Avoid those scented ones. Just squirt some into a bucket with water and you're good to go. Some people don't believe in it. It's not adviseble to do a dawn wash more than once or twice a year. I've heard some cases where it may dry out the moldings/trim a little. I wash with Zaino 7 or Meg's Gold Class after a dawn wash to remove any film/residue from Dawn.
I'm not a fan of wool glove for fear of adding swirls, but if it works for you, then don't change your system. I use sheepskin mitts.
You may want to look into Zaino or Klasse in the spring. You seem like you're willing to spend the time to take care of your car. I do it mainly for the protection and the fact that it will give me some good water beading for 3 to 4 months (parked outdoors). People will also top Zaino with a carnuba to add to the wet look. Some people think Zaino looks a little too plasticy.
I'm not a fan of wool glove for fear of adding swirls, but if it works for you, then don't change your system. I use sheepskin mitts.
You may want to look into Zaino or Klasse in the spring. You seem like you're willing to spend the time to take care of your car. I do it mainly for the protection and the fact that it will give me some good water beading for 3 to 4 months (parked outdoors). People will also top Zaino with a carnuba to add to the wet look. Some people think Zaino looks a little too plasticy.
10-12-2003, 11:13 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Don't use too much Dawn. A little goes a long way. It even more sudsier than the car wash solution so make sure that you rinse really well. You'll find that the water will "sheath -off" instead of beading after using Dawn. That's because it stripped the waxes off of the paint. What you want is to start polishing/ waxing over the clearcoat and not on top of builtup layers of waxes. Also rinse your washing glove really well. You don't want to reapply the dawn washing after a good wax job, right? Better yet, use an older mitt for the dawn and a get one of those Microfiber ones for the regular car wash solution. I even use an older foam mitt for the bottom part of the car.
Most of the stuff you'll find at Canadian Tire.
Those Sheepskin mitts are available at COSTCO for about $15 for a 3 pack.
Vicman
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Most of the stuff you'll find at Canadian Tire.
Those Sheepskin mitts are available at COSTCO for about $15 for a 3 pack.
Vicman
_________________
03 TL Type-S SSM
K&N
10-13-2003, 11:01 AM
#20
Racer
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Leave the Dawn in the Kitchen
Just use more of your normal car wash soap (if it calls for two ounces, use 4 ) -
They clay and paint cleaner steps will remove any wax left
steps are as follows
Wash - leave wet
Clay using water or solution that came with Clay kit
Wash then dry
Paint Cleaner (compound part of some 2-3 or 4 step process)
one section at a time 2'x2' apply the compound with a terry cloth applicator as it is more abrasive and will help - apply it going left to right, then top to bottom, then diagonal from upper left to lower right, then lower left to upper right NO CIRCULAR MOTIONS ). Do this until the compound is dry and starting to come off..
remove with a Microfiber cloth or soft terry cloth (Microfiber is best !!) -
Once you have all the sections you want to do (or the whole car if needed) -
Apply the polish using a new applicator (Foam is best rather than terry you want less abrasive quality as you are now polishing) -
use the same section and motions as you did with the compound, removing with a MF or soft terry cloth.
You should now have a very smooth and shiny paint surface - finish it off with your favorite wax/poly/sealant - Apply with new Foam applicator using back and fourth motions (best advice is to apply the wax in the direction wind would move across the section of car your working on - for the roof, hood and trunk, and for the side panels top to bottom, the direction water would run down.
it takes some time and effort (unless you have a machine to help you) but you will love the results.
They clay and paint cleaner steps will remove any wax left
steps are as follows
Wash - leave wet
Clay using water or solution that came with Clay kit
Wash then dry
Paint Cleaner (compound part of some 2-3 or 4 step process)
one section at a time 2'x2' apply the compound with a terry cloth applicator as it is more abrasive and will help - apply it going left to right, then top to bottom, then diagonal from upper left to lower right, then lower left to upper right NO CIRCULAR MOTIONS
). Do this until the compound is dry and starting to come off..remove with a Microfiber cloth or soft terry cloth (Microfiber is best !!) -
Once you have all the sections you want to do (or the whole car if needed) -
Apply the polish using a new applicator (Foam is best rather than terry you want less abrasive quality as you are now polishing) -
use the same section and motions as you did with the compound, removing with a MF or soft terry cloth.
You should now have a very smooth and shiny paint surface - finish it off with your favorite wax/poly/sealant - Apply with new Foam applicator using back and fourth motions (best advice is to apply the wax in the direction wind would move across the section of car your working on - for the roof, hood and trunk, and for the side panels top to bottom, the direction water would run down.
it takes some time and effort (unless you have a machine to help you) but you will love the results.
10-15-2003, 11:17 PM
#21
4th Gear
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Go to Griots Garage
10-16-2003, 08:34 AM
#22
Burning Brakes
Griot's has some good and bad stuff. You have to hunt and pick for things. Most of the pricing goes into those catalogs you get every week. Those catalogs are not cheap to print.
10-16-2003, 08:54 AM
#23
Pro
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You guys should really check out, Microfiber towells. I use them for everything. No lint, makes them perfect for windows. They absorb ten times there weight in water, with out leaving streaks. When your done with them, straight in the washer without any soap or softner, straight into the dryer.
10-16-2003, 08:58 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
MF towels are a good example of something not to pick up at Griots. Too pricey. www.pakshak.com is a great place for MFs and WWs. Customer service is great. Guy is really kool. 
Really Bear ? You don't use any soap ? I use a little without any probs.
Really Bear ? You don't use any soap ? I use a little without any probs.
10-16-2003, 12:24 PM
#25
Racer
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This and That
MF towels - you should use a soap but make sure it is free of dye's perfumes and colorsafe bleach - I use all free..throw them in the dryer with no dryer sheets - I have about 10 MF towels, some soft terry cloth towels and an absorber. After my weekend detail ritual I have used about half of all of them (and my sheep wash mit - baaaaah) - so I will throw all of em in the wash after my detailing is over.
MF towels range in quality - which is why the CAN range in price.
I highly reccomend -
http://www.premiumautocare.com/
as a place for all your detailing needs.
MF towels range in quality - which is why the CAN range in price.
I highly reccomend -
http://www.premiumautocare.com/
as a place for all your detailing needs.
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