Vibration issues at idle
Are you missing the whole vacuum concept?
The engine runs by sucking in air mixed with fuel, compressing it, igniting it which forces the piston down, creating horsepower, then pushing the spent gases out the exhaust.
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.
Think of your engine as a hoover vacuum. The hose is the intake system. The airflow gets measured, and the fuel added, at the end of the hose. If there is a hole in the hose, the airflow will be greater than what was measured, and there will not be enough fuel for the additional air.
Almost all cars use the vacuum the engine produces to power various things, such as brake boosters, heater/ac air doors. Your TL uses it to change the motor mount characteristics.
Are you sure you pinched the right line, and are you sure you pinched it enough to close it off? Alternatively, remove the line from where it plugs into the intake manifold, and plug the intake manifold stub.
What's you experience with vehicle engines/mechanics? You might do well to pick up a basic book on the subject, especially if you are giong to be doing more mods.
The engine runs by sucking in air mixed with fuel, compressing it, igniting it which forces the piston down, creating horsepower, then pushing the spent gases out the exhaust.
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.
Think of your engine as a hoover vacuum. The hose is the intake system. The airflow gets measured, and the fuel added, at the end of the hose. If there is a hole in the hose, the airflow will be greater than what was measured, and there will not be enough fuel for the additional air.
Almost all cars use the vacuum the engine produces to power various things, such as brake boosters, heater/ac air doors. Your TL uses it to change the motor mount characteristics.
Are you sure you pinched the right line, and are you sure you pinched it enough to close it off? Alternatively, remove the line from where it plugs into the intake manifold, and plug the intake manifold stub.
What's you experience with vehicle engines/mechanics? You might do well to pick up a basic book on the subject, especially if you are giong to be doing more mods.
Yes I know how it all works that not what I was trying to say i pinched the hose right before it got to that metal connector. After that the metal hose goes to the mount. From looking at various pics of the mount the hose connects below the mount.
When I pinched the hose nothing change. I also disconnected the hose from Part 11 in the link also.http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
and no change. M
When I pinched the hose nothing change. I also disconnected the hose from Part 11 in the link also.http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
and no change. M
Originally Posted by dnd2984
As I remember, when I took my car to acura 3 weeks ago the service advisor told me there is vacuum going to the rear mount, and when he pinched the line it stoped? I have no clue what that means. THen when I got to the dealership he said I should change the mount.
ok dropping the car off on Wed. to change out the mount. What if acura changes the mount and the vubration does not go away???? Am i still liable to pay for even though they told me to get it replaced.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
If they diagnosed somethng and it was proven wrong- thats one thing
Since you have been running with this prob- there may be other parts effected too
Since you have been running with this prob- there may be other parts effected too
What other parts come to find? Can it be the EGR solenoid?
When you say you cleaned the EGR, do you mean the port, or the valve? If the valve sticks open it will cause a vacuum leak, that might cause symptoms like you describe.
If by solenoid, you mean the valve, that could be it. If you mean the electrical part that opens the valve, that's probably not it.
Earlier you said a friend said it could be a burnt valve. A simple compression test would rule that out; the bad cyliner would have low compression.
If by solenoid, you mean the valve, that could be it. If you mean the electrical part that opens the valve, that's probably not it.
Earlier you said a friend said it could be a burnt valve. A simple compression test would rule that out; the bad cyliner would have low compression.
Originally Posted by 6spMike
When you say you cleaned the EGR, do you mean the port, or the valve? If the valve sticks open it will cause a vacuum leak, that might cause symptoms like you describe.
If by solenoid, you mean the valve, that could be it. If you mean the electrical part that opens the valve, that's probably not it.
Earlier you said a friend said it could be a burnt valve. A simple compression test would rule that out; the bad cyliner would have low compression.
If by solenoid, you mean the valve, that could be it. If you mean the electrical part that opens the valve, that's probably not it.
Earlier you said a friend said it could be a burnt valve. A simple compression test would rule that out; the bad cyliner would have low compression.
This is why the EGR Valve came to mind. I was working on our Suburban and going through the Haynes manual. I was just reading about the EGR valve/solenoid. "IF the egr valve is in the open position all the time this will cause, rough idle, as speeds increase the idle should smooth out. "
I believe it was the REAR engine mount had a vacuum leak
The dealer had diagnosed this and even demonstrated to him
that pinching the line made it better, but youthful mistrust of dealer
assumed they were full of it.
If you read the thread- he tried everything else before going back, the dealer installed what they said it needed and- fixed!
The dealer had diagnosed this and even demonstrated to him
that pinching the line made it better, but youthful mistrust of dealer
assumed they were full of it.
If you read the thread- he tried everything else before going back, the dealer installed what they said it needed and- fixed!
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I believe it was the REAR engine mount had a vacuum leak
The dealer had diagnosed this and even demonstrated to him
that pinching the line made it better, but youthful mistrust of dealer
assumed they were full of it.
If you read the thread- he tried everything else before going back, the dealer installed what they said it needed and- fixed!
The dealer had diagnosed this and even demonstrated to him
that pinching the line made it better, but youthful mistrust of dealer
assumed they were full of it.
If you read the thread- he tried everything else before going back, the dealer installed what they said it needed and- fixed!
Tom is correct I was young and stupid......Wait I am still young....
Originally Posted by chewi
So it was your front engine mount eh? I better get this done soon
Front and side mount where done last december when i had tranny #5 installed.
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