I notice the most vibration is around the Thottle body. If you look closes you can see it shaken violently when car is in drive.

 

I just replaced my front and side mounts, which I was told are the most common to break. Still original rear. 02 TL-S, I have a heavy foot.

I don't know what to say about the vibration. Odd that it is around the throttle body, being that it is connected to the rest of the engine.

To check vacuum leak, first listen for hissing, investigate hoses. If you find nothing out of ord. then get some carb cleaner and spray it around where the vacuum lines connect to the engine. If you have ever replaced thermoblock spacers, check there for sure. If the engine idle changes when you are spraying the carb cleaner, that is where your vacuum leak is.


If it is only with AC on, that could be the problem. If it is simply the load from the AC then probably not.

That is the best I have considering all of the given info. Depending on mileage, T-Belt would help a little, and valve adjustment will help a little. Not saying they are the problem, but when due, they do cause a less smooth idle.

Let us know.

 

I think It might be the IACV. From researching it sometimes does not give a code. and sometimes does. I know the idle drops low sometime, and i have been ignoring that because it has not happened in 6 month or so.

 

as soon as I hit the submit buttom for my IACV from acuraoemparts.com. My sister calls and tells me her laptop blows up (not literally). So time to buy one of those to. Its been a hell of a week. Already spent $475 on books and cds for my Series 7 exam

 

I could see that too. Let us know.

 

Ok so I was trying some trouble shooting, In my mind I thought it might been a coil pack. I unplugged one coil and the idle was hell of alot rougher. I got my IACV in and I really hope this solves my problem. Again when I accelarate the car goes smooth and I hardly feel the shift points.

 

to address the coils, you will need to unplug one at a time. It should, like you said, get rough, and then plug it back in and move to the next. The same should happen on each cylinder. If you unplug one and it doesn't change the way it runs, it is that coil (possibly) or cylinder at least. Then swap the coil with another cylinder and see if the problem follows the coil.
I doubt it is the coil, however. A bad coil causing constant vibration at idle would throw a code for sure and always cause problems (including accelleration).

 

That airflow meter shaking- are the bolts tight? thats a vacuum area
And if you look inside it where the throttle plate is- does it look black on the edges where it has to seal?
I cleaned mine with Mass Airflow Meter cleaner, like carb spray but guaranteed safe for AFM
shoot it till it drips off and wipe out what you can, spray some more while opening plate
If done on car- do with engine OFF, when restarted it will run bad for a minute- just like after using seafoam- it stutters then clears out

Have you tried seafoam directly into the intake manifold vac line to clean the valve edges so they are sealing perfect too?

 

SON OF A BTICH................I just wasted $120 buck in a IACV.......

 

OK I will bite
What was the cure?
Often when confronted with perplexing issues
its the simple little thing that stared it all

 

NOthin...Its still vibrating man. I checked all the lines everything was connected and tight. Ineed a diagram of all the vac lines. I am kinda confused now.....

 

So, have you tried unplugging every coil, or just one? Any recent work other than spark plugs?
Is your violent vibration correlated with loss of power?
You need to start to isolate a cylinder that may be causing the problem. Violent vibration from a vac leak would not be this elusive.
Isolate a cylinder. If you uplug a coil and nothing changes, that is the cylinder. Swap that coil with another next to it and see if the problem is still there, or moved with the coil.
IF it is still there, check the plug.

Try this (if you already haven't and post back results.

 

I unpluged one coil at a time. The vibration got worse with each unplugged. THe vibration DOES NOT happen when accelarating . ITs smooth and fast when takin off. I am just going to be taking the TL to the dealer and have them do the engine mount. The Acura Honda shop prices were cheaper only by $50

 

So i referred back to this earlier to make sure. Is it not correct?

Not new engine mounts then? All Three engine mounts are visible. Have you inspected them yourself?

 

Do you have any mods on your engine?

 

Have you run the engine codes with a diagnostic machine (different than looking at the check engine light)?

 

The rear mount is still the orignal.. The front and side is new...

 

No codes. Had Advance Auto and Acura run for codes and nothing....

As for engine mods...

Headers
Intake and Thermoblock spacers

 

Ok have to ask to eliminate items---
how long have you have the thermoblock spacer- and timing relative to the problem?
If the torque is not perfect on the intake manifold bolts- and
yes you do need to recheck the torque after a few hundred miles whenever you work on the intake, because things change with heat and cool cycles.

Did you do the spray the carb clean around like BD said
And the vac line you put the seafoam thru- you clipped off the end a little where the seafoam may have swelled it?

note to bd and other seafoamers- check the end of the vac line for absulte tight fit- if not- cut and redo- or remove engine cover, replace vac line with new piece, lube throttle while cover off, replace cover and enjoy
The smallest vac leak will drive you crazy - have you hooked a vac guage up and see what it says?

recently another member got thermoblock with wrong package of bolts included- 2 were to short.

 

The Problem is almost a year old, its just getting really annoying now. Everything been re torqued. The line I used for sea foam has been replaced.

Where can I get a vac gauge.

 

eek i know this is old and it doesn't answer your questions but seafoam is TERRIBLE for your engine. you probably all hate this forum, and i do too, but theres countless posts here from people that used seafoam and how it caused a huge problem in their engines...
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/se...t=Start+Search
check it out..

 

serves em right for not buying a TL- which countless members have used seafoam on with total success, follow directons and dont expect 5 year old plugs to be good anymore.

now back to dnd's prob

When I say torque spec on manifold bolts- that means not over the spec at all- thats important- its like 18 pounds
Of course it gets better when you add fuel and speed- you have an air leak at idle
Why do you need a vac diagram?- did the replacement manifold not match exactly?
You need to give us names and dates so we can help you get the solution

 

Vibration issue has been on going since last august, and back then I had no engine mods and I let acura do all the maint. then to.

All that left is to replace that rear mount.

 

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

Hey guys look at Part #11 in my above post . Thats the Hydraulic control unit. I can get that for lke $28 bucks. And from that the vac line goes to the mount.

 

You seem certain about the rear mount. There is diagnostics you can run to figure out if the aforementioned part is bad or not (instead of throwing $ around, even though that part is less expensive than an IACV!)
I would get out the carb cleaner and spray it at the intake like mad. See if idle changes. I had an old Accord that was missing a fat piece of the int. man. gasket. Somehow, it took a while to figure out, then I tried the carb cleaner thing. Chances are you had a rough idle, enough to notice and then your mods were placed and there is now a second problem exacerbating this issue.
Have you tried the carb cleaner vac check?

 

it is less expensive than the IACV but I would have the dealer install it and the labor would be crzy. Honda dealer quoted me $210 for just labor

 

a buddy of mine looked at my car and said it might be a bent valve

 

I have question regarding vibration too.
It is perfectly fine in drive, however if i shift to neutral, i can feel vibration. but the vibration is not that strong. Shouldnt the car have less vibration when in neutral????

 

dnd

I am starting to think burnt valve- not bent valve, which the engine should detect and limit rpm to 2500 as it limps home in safe mode
A cylinder leak down test will say if the valves are sealing properly
A vac leak left unfixed for a long time can burn a valve and result in
poor sealing edge on it.
Pull the spark plugs and get a reading if 1 is off on the color or wear

 

How? - not flaming, I just want to know.

 

DND, can you give a summary of what's happened so far?
Idles rough, worse under load.
Runs great otherwise.
New motor mounts.
New plugs.
Seafoamed.
Cleaned the throttle body.
New IACV.
You have performance intake and exhaust manis, and the thermoblock spacers, but the problem existed before that.
Is that it?
Did you replace the plugs for this problem, or was it occuring before that?
Did the problem change at all after replacing the plugs?
Did your mods have any effect on the problem?
What are the rpms in N, in D, in D with AC on?
Do the brakes feel fine (booster works) for 1-2 presses of the pedal after you shut the engine off?

 

Yes rough idle in D5 whne at idle. Worse when AC is on. The idel problem existed before the engine mods. Yes I did change the plugs thinking it was them but no difference. The Rpms are at about 700+ in N,D and D with Ac.

The brakes feel fine and the booster works fine also.

 

If its a burnt valve would there be any other problem???

 

What are the symptoms of a burnt valve?

 

I'm not quite sure, but combustion gases will leak past a burnt valve, so you might get kind of a popping noise in the exhaust or intake.
A burnt valve would be unusual, though.
The fact that it runs well, except at idle, still suggests to me a vacuum leak.
The most likely culprits are:
Leaking EGR valve.
Bad intake manifold gasket, or some other intake system leak downstream of the throttle body; it's got to be a relatively large leak.
Leaky brake booster diaphram. The brakes might still work fine, but if you turn off the engine, wait a few seconds, and the brake pedal is really stiff, that's it.
The EGR is the most likely; there are threads here on how to clean it.

 

I cleaned the EGR a month ago. My whole intake manifold looks brand new.

Now question about the vacumm leak. How can it be detected? And what relation does it have with the rear engine mount.

As I remember, when I took my car to acura 3 weeks ago the service advisor told me there is vacuum going to the rear mount, and when he pinched the line it stoped? I have no clue what that means. THen when I got to the dealership he said I should change the mount.

How will changing the mount correct the vacuum issue?

After the engine is off my brake pedal gets really stiff after 1 to 2 pumps.

 

A vacuum leak is a leak in the intake system between the throttle plate and the cylinder(s). It causes a rough idle because the engine is sucking in more air than the computer knows about from the mass airflow sensor.
The amount of vacuum changes based on how far open the throttle is. It's lowest at wide open, and highest at idle. The rear engine mount must take advantage of that difference in order to provide different characteristics at different throttle settings, for reduced vibration or such.
If you pinch closed the hose that leads to the mount, and the idle clears up immediately, then there is a leak either in the hose or the engine mount that is causing the rough idle.
The brake booster uses vacuum on the other side of a large diaphram (that's the large round thing behind the brake reservoir/master cylinder) to provide the power assist. Usually there's enough vacuum stored in the booster to get 1-2 boosted pumps out of it after the engine is off. A hole in the diaphram is a vacuum leak, but it's easy to overlook, since it's not 'part' of the engine. Yours is OK.

 

If you don't want to change the mount right away, you could plug the vacuum line to fix the idle for now.

 

Where can I pinch the vac line. The rubber hose connects to a metal hose going to the mount.