222star

Guys, I need your help!

The idle on my 2002 TL Type S is registering way too low.... When I stop quickly... it wants to stall... and it has once already.

The dealer tried unsuccessfully to fix it by remove the battery and telling the CPU to reprogram its idle program.

Also, while driving at 60 KM an hour, suddenly my RPM (engine)was cutting out ... up and down, up and down .. 4 to 5 times..

Is my transmission going?

I currently have 22,000 miles on it...

Can anyone help me!

fla-tls

I understand the dealer's attempt with the computer. If your computer has not gone through that initial calibration it will have a low idle (initial calibration is not the official term for it - it's in the manual).

How do you know if it's "calibrated"? Turn the ignition to run and wait 20 seconds. If the check engine light simply goes out it's calibrated. If the light blinks - it's not. This procedure happens every time the CPU is reset.

The symptom of engine cutout at speed is new to me. Is it revving out of gear and then catching? If so it's probably the tranny.

MotionEffects

That has happen to me very often. I would come to a complete stop and it seems like the engine wants to stall out. I have tried different gas, reseting the ecu, and even use fuel cleaner(Chevron) and it still does it. I dont know what the problem is.

rock

The exact same thing kept happening to me a couple of months ago. It happened mostly when the car was cold. Dealer ended up changing the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve. Since then, it's been fine. I think some other members on this site had similar problems.

222star

Hello!

I have checked and my engin is calibrated. Still having the problem. When it's cold, it's OK.. when the engin is at operating temperature it low.. below - 600 RPM...

I am going to the dealer again for round 2.

Thanks for your comments

samkws

it's not about the transmission

it's sth about the computer and ignition, it would be costy if u want to fix it~

samkws

for once my sister has been stuck in snow traffic for 2hrs

and afterwards i took the car out, and the car had the same situation!!! i figured it's the battery coz she had heat and everything on for a couple hrs in traffic and not running

after 15 min of high revving driving it went back to normal thou

222star

Thanks for replying to my concern, this problem has started about 2 months ago... I know it's very cold where I live, very humid weather.... however, it drove the car last winter without an issue.

The dealer said that it might be a bad tank of gas... not sure... either.

I will let you know what round 2 does with thw dealer.

222star

Thanks for the reply... I should not cost me a dime... it has only 22,000 miles and in service now for 18 months...

Can you tell me what you would suggest that I tell the dealer to do?

Thanks in advance!

Tom Blasing

This might sound off the wall but is there a pinched vaccum line somewhere?

I once had an idle oscillation problem on my Talon and it turned out to be the idle speed control servo had a dead spot and would send the ECU into a recovery loop.

driver

I have the same problem with my 2002 TL-S. I too notice this when the car is very cold.

Even when I drive through highway and come to a stop at the exit ramp my car feels like it wants to stall out and give little bit of shutter or shake.

Same thing happening to so many of our cars is not norm. I belive there is something going bad on our car because I didn't notice this before and I only have 38000 miles.

If anyone can get to the bottom of this please let me know.

222star

You and I have the very same car and the same problem. I am very disapointed with what my car does... actually it doen right embarrassing.!

I am going to the dealer next week. I will let you know!

BIG_KOUT

tranny problem all the way

go-types

same problem here. had the dealer reset what they called the base idle & the problem was gone.

NICEUP

I had a similar problem. This happened twice when I started the car (IT WAS NOT COLD).The car idle would slow down and the car would seem like it would want to cut off. I move the gear from park to drive (D4) I did not hit the gas I just let it idle for a while, then it cut off in about 10 seconds.

I then restarted the car and it idled fine.
My car idles around 450rpm. Is that too slow.

The funny thing is that I just got the car tuned up a week ago.

I hope that I am wrong but I think that it is the Tranny for some reason!!

Anybody has any answers?

samkws

normal it is at 750rpm

vfrdirk

When my MAP sensor failed, the idle went WAY down and there was a rev limiter set at 3,000 RPM. This was the "limp home" mode and was a total pain to drive. The dealer had to order the part since he didn't have it in stock, but it was covered under warranty...

Dirk

driver

222star,
Any updates on your issue? Weather is getting warmer and my car seems to be running fine now. But I still believe there is something going bad on our cars. Let me know if you have any new info.

spankme

its your I.A.C VALVE

driver

What is I.A.C Valve?

eh!curaplus

yeah what is it? i wanna know too! I live in T.O. and have the same prob. my car stalled in the cold after starting the already warmed engine/ flashed the check engine and TCS light then died. Brought to the dealer and they read 3 cylinders misfiring. Thing is though, my problem didn't even start until the dealer changed my spark plugs for me. They suggested i buy the NGK PLTNM (6X$30) yet i went with BOSCH +4's PLTNM (6X10) now they're saying its the plugs i made them put in? could it be???
or is it this I.A.C. thing? someone help!!!!!!!!

222star

Well, I have driven over 400 miles over the last weekend. My RPM is better but still around 600 RPM. It could have been a really bad tank of gas. What I have noticed is that when I stop quickly, sometimes the transmission is not in sysc.. and it seems that it does not shift down quick enough and the RPM falls too low and then tries to recover....

I am going to drive it a little more and see. Yes the weather here is improving... was 50F today.

rock

I.A.C.V - Idle Air Control Valve. Helps to regulate the idle RPM, especially when the engine is cold (Something like that). My old 97 Maxima had a adjustable IACV, but unfortunately our TLs cannot be adjusted. I've had similar problems with the stalling, especially when cold and low RPMs when warm. The dealer changed out the IACV and TPS (Throttle position sensor) and it's been fine for several months.

driver

Does anyone have update to this? I'm wondering if I should bring my car into the dealer for this. How do I get them to exchange these valves since this problem doesn't happen consistently for me. Acura service guy told me they can't fix it if they can't reproduce it.

NICEUP

I went into the dealer today for the same problem. They told me I have to bring it in when the problem is occuring, which everyone know is impossible. It only happens in your possession and not the dealers. They kept me waiting for 1 hour only to tell me that they reset the maint. light. I do not think they will fix it unless you get really persistent with the dealer.

riceman1998

My car have same idle problem today when I start up in a very cold weather and didn't warm up the car before drive to my work. While waiting for the traffic, I've experience the rough idle and then all the sudden my RPM start to go up and down between 1000-3000 RPM repeatly without me step on the gas paddle. I restart the car and then my engine check light and VSA light was on and I can't turn the VSA off so I decided to go to Acura dealer to check the problem. As soon as the dealer saw the problem, they immediately tell me it is I.A.C.V. problem and replace them free under warrenty. I ask the technician if lots of Acura TL have same problem and he told there are quiet a few out there they've replace as well as the new transmission. I think this maybe another defect on the TL.
By the way, my car is 2002 TL-S with 44,000 miles. Already got the transmission and rotor replace under the warrenty due to the bad experiences. This is my third warrenty service with the dealer

TopGum

If so, the computer should store a code. Another alternative is to get an OBD II code reader. They are about $100-150. When the car produces the idle problem, plug it in to get a code. I agree it is the IAC.