valves - TDC or 180 off?

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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valves - TDC or 180 off?

I plan on adjusting the valves soon - read the DIYs & feel comfortable taking everything apart.

My question is - I've read to be sure that you're not 180 degrees off when working on the valves (for obvious reasons) - is it easy to know whether it is really TDC or 180 off? Also, once I really am TDC (for instance for valve 1) will I then be TDC for all the remainders?

Also, does anyone have the Helms section for this - tried searching, but didn't see it anywhere. (sorry for all the ???)
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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You need to be TDC for each valve. It's marked on the right timing belt pully.

I'll see if I can find the scan I had for that section.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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Thanks - but from reading some of the other threads, some people made it sound that the pulley could line up for valve 1, for example, but that could mean that valve 1 was either TDC or it could be 180 degrees off for valve 1. That's where I was a little confused.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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The pully has 1-6 marked for what TDC is for each valve. You line each number to the mark and that cyl is tdc.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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Sorry - I don't know how to link to other posts but this was from one of the others:

"and even tho it indicates what piston is TDC it doesnt tell u if its 180 out of phase or in...lol those r stereo terms but it seems to make sense here. you can be at piston 1 and it says tdc but you can be all the way down in the motor so then you have to crank all the way around again til u hit true tdc."

I understand the markings and lining them up, the post above is what's confusing me.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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My Helms manual conflicts with that quote.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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Thanks - that's what I was thinking, but I've read it somewhere else also (just can't find it now), hence the post, just to clarify. If I can get someone else to confirm, I'll feel better (I trust ya, man, it's just my engine - wanna make double sure). Also, when I went back to find that post, the pages from helms popped up (it didn't load the first time) - it's for a 3rd Gen tho. Are the specs the same for a 03p?
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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when a cyl is TDC both valves will be closed and the adjusters slightly loose
You will need to crank the engine around to get to the next set of valves to be adjusted. follow the order given in the book exactly
See the DIY on here for more info
rob has done the adjustment recently so trust him
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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after you get done, run the whole thing again, making sure nothing was done wrong or left loose or not in spec after tightening the bolt

Always check the clearance after you tighten the locknut
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:19 AM
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Thanks. I'll just ignore the 180 degrees off - who knows what that's all about. Rob, if you get a chance to post or link the Helms, that would be great. Or if the procedure is the same as 3rd Gen, the other link has that manual and I'll just go by that. Thanks again.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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To be TDC the CRANK pulley has to align with the mark on the cover AND the front pulley has to line up with the 1 mark. If its 180 off they wont match up. Once you have those to marks lined up you just rotate to the next#
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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Thanks. That makes sense now. Funny that's not in the Helms. Seems like a major point that could really screw things up.

So just to verify - the crank pulley is the lowest pulley with the 19 mm bolt that everyone b&*ches about taking off with their timing belts - correct. It has a mark on it?? Then the front pulley is the one under the front timing belt cover that has the numbers on it. Sorry - just want to verify before I do it.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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The crank pulley does not have the marks. The front pully under the cover has the numbers and marks that you line up.

I'm at work so I cannot scan you the doc but pm me your email and I'll send you it in the coming day.

I cannot stress enough that double/tripple checking your work is important. I forgot to cover the intake which could have caused a huge problem had nut/bolt fallen in there without my knowledge.

Some people remove the right front wheel, I didn't. It's a fair amount of work and to line things up right and fast requires two people. GF/WIFE/Buddy can be very helpful.

Last edited by rob-2; Mar 18, 2009 at 01:13 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
To be TDC the CRANK pulley has to align with the mark on the cover
Originally Posted by rob-2
The crank pulley does not have the marks. .
OK - I'm confused again. Kris, can you explain what you mean about the crank pulley aligning with the mark on the cover. Thx.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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You'll see it all when you open it up.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mklaudt
OK - I'm confused again. Kris, can you explain what you mean about the crank pulley aligning with the mark on the cover. Thx.
Look at the crank pulley as you rotate it (from the engine compartment)You will have to turn the crank to do each cyl. You will see a line on the crank pulley. There is a arrow on the timing belt cover. That line has to align with the arrow. At the same time the #1 on the front cam sprocket needs to line up with the mark on the backing plate (or the inspection hole is V shaped and the line can mate up with that.

Go out and look at it. You will see.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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Good Deal - I see it. So as long as both are lined up for #1, I'm assuming the next 5 will also be lined up. Then if for whatever reason i need to go back and re-do one (or went too far the first time), I'll need to go around twice to get back to TDC, correct?
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mklaudt
Good Deal - I see it. So as long as both are lined up for #1, I'm assuming the next 5 will also be lined up. Then if for whatever reason i need to go back and re-do one (or went too far the first time), I'll need to go around twice to get back to TDC, correct?
Once #1 is lined up you just rotate it per the directions. You have to follow the correct procedure. And yes if you have to go back to one you will have to start out at #1 and work your way back to the desired cyl
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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see my DIY
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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email sent, now its up to you to pass it along.
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