Valve Adjustment DIY in progress
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
Please buy a GO- NO GO feeler guage!!!!!
it will make your life simple when doing valve adjustments
stick it in- it stops and is correct or it keeps going means too loose
wont go in at all- too tight!
I imagine IHC, fries, and the other real techs will agree- its the right tool for the job,
and not many dollars at parts store- maybe harbor freight too,
or buy a great one for many years of use, matco or snap-on off the tool truck!
I learned on the `guess the drag` type (still have 3 sets of them in the toolbox), and then bought the right thing- (only needed 1 of it)
made all valve adjust services easy,,this was back doing 5-15 valve adjustments a week on datsun/nissanZ cars, plus those pita bimmers
No valves to adjust on RX7 rotary~~ my favorite car in for a major service!!
it will make your life simple when doing valve adjustments
stick it in- it stops and is correct or it keeps going means too loose
wont go in at all- too tight!
I imagine IHC, fries, and the other real techs will agree- its the right tool for the job,
and not many dollars at parts store- maybe harbor freight too,
or buy a great one for many years of use, matco or snap-on off the tool truck!
I learned on the `guess the drag` type (still have 3 sets of them in the toolbox), and then bought the right thing- (only needed 1 of it)
made all valve adjust services easy,,this was back doing 5-15 valve adjustments a week on datsun/nissanZ cars, plus those pita bimmers
No valves to adjust on RX7 rotary~~ my favorite car in for a major service!!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Please buy a GO- NO GO feeler guage!!!!!
it will make your life simple when doing valve adjustments
stick it in- it stops and is correct or it keeps going means too loose
wont go in at all- too tight!
I imagine IHC, fries, and the other real techs will agree- its the right tool for the job,
and not many dollars at parts store- maybe harbor freight too,
or buy a great one for many years of use, matco or snap-on off the tool truck!
I learned on the `guess the drag` type (still have 3 sets of them in the toolbox), and then bought the right thing- (only needed 1 of it)
made all valve adjust services easy,,this was back doing 5-15 valve adjustments a week on datsun/nissanZ cars, plus those pita bimmers
No valves to adjust on RX7 rotary~~ my favorite car in for a major service!!
it will make your life simple when doing valve adjustments
stick it in- it stops and is correct or it keeps going means too loose
wont go in at all- too tight!
I imagine IHC, fries, and the other real techs will agree- its the right tool for the job,
and not many dollars at parts store- maybe harbor freight too,
or buy a great one for many years of use, matco or snap-on off the tool truck!
I learned on the `guess the drag` type (still have 3 sets of them in the toolbox), and then bought the right thing- (only needed 1 of it)
made all valve adjust services easy,,this was back doing 5-15 valve adjustments a week on datsun/nissanZ cars, plus those pita bimmers
No valves to adjust on RX7 rotary~~ my favorite car in for a major service!!
6spd
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta/Houston
I just got the go no go feeler gauge. But I'm getting 2 different answers about lifting the rocker.... If you don't lift it, you're basically saying there's extra play in the rocker/valve in addition to the clearance you just measured. That doesn't seem right. I already tried that, and it seems the valves are too loose (although maybe I didn't measure it with enough drag).
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
I just got the go no go feeler gauge. But I'm getting 2 different answers about lifting the rocker.... If you don't lift it, you're basically saying there's extra play in the rocker/valve in addition to the clearance you just measured. That doesn't seem right. I already tried that, and it seems the valves are too loose (although maybe I didn't measure it with enough drag).
2003 TL-p
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 19
From: Reading, PA
^ exactly what i did and though was correct. all i used was a little common scene and a set of angle bent feeler gauges. i simply tripled checked everything making sure larger sized gauges wouldn't fit and smaller sized gauges be loose with play, and the correct sized gauge having light drag with no play. you really cant mess it up if you really think about whats going on, just make sure that gap when the rocker is lifted is the same thickness of the gauge.
iv learned to use regular straight feeler gauges on small 4 stroke engines so thats my practice. my car wasn't much harder, just a much bigger job.
iv learned to use regular straight feeler gauges on small 4 stroke engines so thats my practice. my car wasn't much harder, just a much bigger job.
6spd
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta/Houston
Thanks for the tips guys. After some drama (battery died), I got the car started and no more TICKING! I used both feeler gauges and was very detailed about it this time. I guess I shouldn't have done it outside in the cold in the dark the first time around because I was just rushing to get it done so I wouldn't get a frostbite.
Here's a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blbSfhNNidc
Here's a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blbSfhNNidc
6spd
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta/Houston
LOL more drama. I've been driving around for the past few days, and the car runs fine, feels stronger than before, no ticking. Today, accelerating at around 45mph, my CEL started blinking a few times and then went away. It didn't feel anything different, and the car seemed to run normal. I went to Autozone and it said P1399 - random misfire. I'm not sure what to do now.... car seems to run fine but I don't wanna risk anything.
Any ideas? I might try Seafoming it...
Any ideas? I might try Seafoming it...
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
LOL more drama. I've been driving around for the past few days, and the car runs fine, feels stronger than before, no ticking. Today, accelerating at around 45mph, my CEL started blinking a few times and then went away. It didn't feel anything different, and the car seemed to run normal. I went to Autozone and it said P1399 - random misfire. I'm not sure what to do now.... car seems to run fine but I don't wanna risk anything.
Any ideas? I might try Seafoming it...
Any ideas? I might try Seafoming it...
Don't Seafoam. It's worthless and has the potential to cause more problems. If you pulled any spark plugs out, check connections on the coils first and gaps when you pulled them out. I've hit the plug on the way in to the hold and closed the gap down to nearly zero and cause a misfire.
6spd
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta/Houston
You got some too tight. No big deal, go back and redo. Just don't take too long because you will burn the exhaust valves if they don't fully close and seat well to transfer heat to the seat. It doesn't take long to hurt them.
Don't Seafoam. It's worthless and has the potential to cause more problems. If you pulled any spark plugs out, check connections on the coils first and gaps when you pulled them out. I've hit the plug on the way in to the hold and closed the gap down to nearly zero and cause a misfire.
Don't Seafoam. It's worthless and has the potential to cause more problems. If you pulled any spark plugs out, check connections on the coils first and gaps when you pulled them out. I've hit the plug on the way in to the hold and closed the gap down to nearly zero and cause a misfire.
Oh and I didn't pull the spark plugs out, just the coil packs.
Last edited by Jaeson; Jan 16, 2011 at 07:04 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
You sure it's not something else? It's weird that it only happened once and went away in 4 days of driving around 50 miles. Maybe it's one of the gaskets? Man, it's gonna suck doing this a third time. How many miles you reckon I could drive like this? I don't have time until next weekend....
Oh and I didn't pull the spark plugs out, just the coil packs.
Oh and I didn't pull the spark plugs out, just the coil packs.
More than likely a coil issue would throw a specific cylinder misfire code, not a random misfire but it's always possible.
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
From: Keller, Texas
So I'm planning on doing this Saturday morning. Almost 170K miles so it's way overdue. Need to clean out that EGR while I'm at it. Ordered the Outlaw Engineering ThermoBlok kit:
"Includes intake manifold spacer, throttle body spacer, gaskets, installation kit, bypass fitting, detailed instructions and OUTLAW ENGINEERING decals!" (I'm really excited about the decals, that's the main reason I ordered it.)
Am I going to need any additional gaskets or anything?
"Includes intake manifold spacer, throttle body spacer, gaskets, installation kit, bypass fitting, detailed instructions and OUTLAW ENGINEERING decals!" (I'm really excited about the decals, that's the main reason I ordered it.)
Am I going to need any additional gaskets or anything?
2003 TL-p
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 19
From: Reading, PA
its required to lift the rocker arm up to insert the feeler gauge, and then you adjust and tighten the lock nut and recheck clearance again with the feeler gauge after tightening. unless im missing something here?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
the outlaw kit has everything you need for the install- no extra gaskets or parts beside the 3 cans carb cleaner for the egr cleaning- get non chlorine stuff -its safer
Doesnt hurt to remove the plenums on edges of manifold and clean in there too- get everything you can while its apart
where it says to use vise grips to remove 2 studs that get replaced with longer ones,-dont!
that can let shards of metal come off the stud if tool slips ~ bad news
Instead, use 2 nuts locked against each other on the stud- then you can turn by the lower nut and it comes right out = no danger
reminder- in 500 miles go back and retorque all the manifold bolts- they tend to loosen slightly with heat cycles
Doesnt hurt to remove the plenums on edges of manifold and clean in there too- get everything you can while its apart
where it says to use vise grips to remove 2 studs that get replaced with longer ones,-dont!
that can let shards of metal come off the stud if tool slips ~ bad news
Instead, use 2 nuts locked against each other on the stud- then you can turn by the lower nut and it comes right out = no danger
reminder- in 500 miles go back and retorque all the manifold bolts- they tend to loosen slightly with heat cycles
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
re: lifting valves to adjust
your feeler guage should slide in with little drag, or if it wont go- the valve is tight - try next thinner size to see how much
dont lift anything from its resting position, or the next thing goes out of whack
I hate cars doesnt like seafoam- ok- bg makes good stuff too
properly used its no prob at all and carbon buildup- especially with E10 gas- is a real issue
gas makers wouldnt add nitrogen (shell) or other boosters that claim to clean intake valve backs and pistons of carbon,,unless the crud their gas creates is real
your feeler guage should slide in with little drag, or if it wont go- the valve is tight - try next thinner size to see how much
dont lift anything from its resting position, or the next thing goes out of whack
I hate cars doesnt like seafoam- ok- bg makes good stuff too
properly used its no prob at all and carbon buildup- especially with E10 gas- is a real issue
gas makers wouldnt add nitrogen (shell) or other boosters that claim to clean intake valve backs and pistons of carbon,,unless the crud their gas creates is real
re: lifting valves to adjust
your feeler guage should slide in with little drag, or if it wont go- the valve is tight - try next thinner size to see how much
dont lift anything from its resting position, or the next thing goes out of whack
I hate cars doesnt like seafoam- ok- bg makes good stuff too
properly used its no prob at all and carbon buildup- especially with E10 gas- is a real issue
gas makers wouldnt add nitrogen (shell) or other boosters that claim to clean intake valve backs and pistons of carbon,,unless the crud their gas creates is real
your feeler guage should slide in with little drag, or if it wont go- the valve is tight - try next thinner size to see how much
dont lift anything from its resting position, or the next thing goes out of whack
I hate cars doesnt like seafoam- ok- bg makes good stuff too
properly used its no prob at all and carbon buildup- especially with E10 gas- is a real issue
gas makers wouldnt add nitrogen (shell) or other boosters that claim to clean intake valve backs and pistons of carbon,,unless the crud their gas creates is real
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
From: Keller, Texas
The plan for tomorrow is:
Clean K&N Filter
Clean EGR port
Clean TB and whatever I can in the Intake Manifold.
Install ThermoBlok IM Gaskets and TB Spacer
Replace PCV valve
Adjust valves
TB Coolant Bypass
(Maybe replace spark plugs)
Moderate mechanical experience (anything from changing a bulb to a full timing belt job), but haven't ever really tried tackling more than that.
Besides what's been posted throughout this thread, any comments, concerns? Advice encouraged.
Clean K&N Filter
Clean EGR port
Clean TB and whatever I can in the Intake Manifold.
Install ThermoBlok IM Gaskets and TB Spacer
Replace PCV valve
Adjust valves
TB Coolant Bypass
(Maybe replace spark plugs)
Moderate mechanical experience (anything from changing a bulb to a full timing belt job), but haven't ever really tried tackling more than that.
Besides what's been posted throughout this thread, any comments, concerns? Advice encouraged.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
mostly,,clean the egr passageway thru the manifold with a wire coat hanger (after soaking with carb cleaner)- not just the ports under egr valve and the other end, rinse manifold well and totally dry!!
See diys and read instructions supplied with parts
Make sure the top most gasket as you remove the engine covers- stays UP side UP--dont flip over or it will bite you if installed that way--fits but wrong~
I wouldnt bypass the coolant/(actually `heater line`) to TB, its needed in certain conditions to prevent icing in the system
and doesnt rob too much performance --unless you are going to race the car in auto-x or similar
See diys and read instructions supplied with parts
Make sure the top most gasket as you remove the engine covers- stays UP side UP--dont flip over or it will bite you if installed that way--fits but wrong~
I wouldnt bypass the coolant/(actually `heater line`) to TB, its needed in certain conditions to prevent icing in the system
and doesnt rob too much performance --unless you are going to race the car in auto-x or similar
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
unless they failed -no reason to replace egr valve- usually some wd on the arm gets it working like new
and the pcv- carb cleaner/deep creep will remove sludge inside it,,unless its 3 bucks or less,,
then replace it= for time savings to do other jobs
plugs if more than 70kmiles on the current ones
bg seafoam or redline never hurt to clean internals and injection system - when done correctly = following simple directions~
and the pcv- carb cleaner/deep creep will remove sludge inside it,,unless its 3 bucks or less,,
then replace it= for time savings to do other jobs
plugs if more than 70kmiles on the current ones
bg seafoam or redline never hurt to clean internals and injection system - when done correctly = following simple directions~
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
From: Keller, Texas
Is there any way to clear out the gunk that's built up in the EGR port on the motor? Got the IM side clean, now wondering about the motor side... i.e. Without dropping any of the crap inside.
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
From: Keller, Texas
I've got the EGR port clean on the IM. But the hole that it connects with on the top of the motor is filled with the same gunk.
P.S. The rear valve cover is the biggest pain in the ass I have ever seen.
P.S. The rear valve cover is the biggest pain in the ass I have ever seen.
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
From: Keller, Texas
Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it.
I managed to break a bolt while putting one of the valve covers back on. I could kick myself right now. Too tired and wasn't thinking straight.
I managed to break a bolt while putting one of the valve covers back on. I could kick myself right now. Too tired and wasn't thinking straight.
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
From: Keller, Texas
It was one of the bolts on the back cover. Got the broken piece out. Gonna use a bolt from the front and put everything back together until I can get a replacement bolt tomorrow since the dealer is closed today.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 6
From: MD
Are all the Numbers on the cam
just in case you guys need the acura instructions on doing a valve clearance adjustment here it is!
1 Remove the cylinder head covers.
2 Remove the front upper cover .
3 Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
4 Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
5 Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
6 If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
7 Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance.
Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
9 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder.
10 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 2 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
11 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder.
12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 5 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
13 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 5 cylinder.
14 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 3 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
15 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder.
16 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 6 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 6 cylinder.
1 Remove the cylinder head covers.
2 Remove the front upper cover .
3 Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
4 Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
5 Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
6 If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
7 Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance.
Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
9 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder.
10 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 2 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
11 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder.
12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 5 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
13 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 5 cylinder.
14 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 3 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
15 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder.
16 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 6 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 6 cylinder.
...what anchors the coil pack sleeve at the base where the plug is?? Is there a gasket as there is at the top or something else?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,509
Likes: 1,021
From: Baja, México.
Yes there must be 3 Rubber Donuts on Each to keep the Oil out of the Spark plug Shaft...
Just in Case this is a Pic of the Valve Cover Gasket Replacement:
Notice the 3 Little Donuts those are what goes on top of the Shafts.
And To ADD to this awesome DIY I found out this tool before Hand to Adjust the Valves themself Makes the Work a Little Easier:
Its just a Socket Wrench with an Included Flat Screwdriver that goes in there to adjust the Screw and Nut at the Same time
Pretty Handy!
Just in Case this is a Pic of the Valve Cover Gasket Replacement:
Notice the 3 Little Donuts those are what goes on top of the Shafts.
And To ADD to this awesome DIY I found out this tool before Hand to Adjust the Valves themself Makes the Work a Little Easier:
Its just a Socket Wrench with an Included Flat Screwdriver that goes in there to adjust the Screw and Nut at the Same time
Pretty Handy!
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 50
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta, GA
Thought that I following the instructions correctly
I spent quality time to adjust the valves as described (leveraged this thread and the service manual), but it seems that something went wrong. My first 2 big trips (2+ hr trips) I found my engine oil a quart down after the trips. It seems that I may have tightened too much as my MPG has also gone down although the performance has been great.
I am open for ideas as the loss of oil stumped me a little since there is no drainage on the engine. I ask now as most of my trips are local at the moment so it is an ideal time to repair something that may be out of sync with the valve adjustment.
Thanks.
I am open for ideas as the loss of oil stumped me a little since there is no drainage on the engine. I ask now as most of my trips are local at the moment so it is an ideal time to repair something that may be out of sync with the valve adjustment.
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
just for fun bill, ck the pcv valve for free movement of ball inside
been reports of those clogging and excess pressure will force oil
out thru the engine rear main seal,,there is an inspection plate under car for that leak
everything was set to torque spec on bolts?? gaskets good,,bolt gaskets good and none missing.. as seen in pic above your post?
I know we run one side of our valves at min spec and the other just a tick over mid spec
but dont recall which at the moment
too tight valve adjust is danger city!! for valve to piston contact
especially if there is carbon buildup on pistons
too tight bolts are crushing gasket seal
been reports of those clogging and excess pressure will force oil
out thru the engine rear main seal,,there is an inspection plate under car for that leak
everything was set to torque spec on bolts?? gaskets good,,bolt gaskets good and none missing.. as seen in pic above your post?
I know we run one side of our valves at min spec and the other just a tick over mid spec
but dont recall which at the moment
too tight valve adjust is danger city!! for valve to piston contact
especially if there is carbon buildup on pistons
too tight bolts are crushing gasket seal
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 50
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta, GA
I will check PCV valve tomorrow for flow. I did the specs according to the svc manual, but if that is off I am more than happy to take a look. (after adjusting them once it really isn't too bad to take a look at again).
Here are the specs the service manual provides:
Open for ideas as this definitely caught me off guard.
Thanks.
Here are the specs the service manual provides:
Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
I did replace the gaskets while performing the adjustment previously and tightened all to spec as the engine has 100k+ on it. ...and visually I didn't see any leaks when the oil level was found to be low.0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
Open for ideas as this definitely caught me off guard.
Thanks.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 50
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta, GA
Ok, so I reread this entire thread with the following results:
1) confirm that PCV valve is not clogged; otherwise, spend $5 to on a new one for additional insurance
2) the adjustment specs should be:
Intake: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.) - Tighten as close to .009 as possible as it will loosen over time
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.) - Tighten as close to .012 as possible as it will tighten over time
3) do not lift the rockers when performing the adjustment
4) only turn crankshaft in clockwise direction
5) line up TDC between the back cover and the TDC mark on the camshaft pully (the diagrams within the service manual are not exactly perfect)
6) only perform on a cold engine
7) take your time to perform the adjustment. It is not hard, only tedious.
Please confirm that I am capturing this correctly. My goal is to do this today, if possible.
Thanks.
1) confirm that PCV valve is not clogged; otherwise, spend $5 to on a new one for additional insurance
2) the adjustment specs should be:
Intake: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.) - Tighten as close to .009 as possible as it will loosen over time
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.) - Tighten as close to .012 as possible as it will tighten over time
3) do not lift the rockers when performing the adjustment
4) only turn crankshaft in clockwise direction
5) line up TDC between the back cover and the TDC mark on the camshaft pully (the diagrams within the service manual are not exactly perfect)
6) only perform on a cold engine
7) take your time to perform the adjustment. It is not hard, only tedious.
Please confirm that I am capturing this correctly. My goal is to do this today, if possible.
Thanks.