^youre right 01tl4tl i didnt even notice about the valve covers and what seafoam really did. the plenum was filthy too. what do you think is the reason for the difference in filth on both sides? i cleaned it all up BTW

 

more heat on the rear of the engine- not much cooling there- causes extra baked on buildup- seen it many times- even in pics on azine!
Its not critical to operation but makes a good case for foaming the oil

 

phee and rob-
Please take all your combined tips and make a full DIY- submit it to csmeance and he and other mod will review and add comments or changes they feel it needs- then you correct and return- when done- Ron A the Ultra Mod will post in and sticky to other gens for referance- then they can close the thread so its just a DIY- not all questons and comments,,, as seafoam and this have had happen
Say:
Would you mind taking it apart again and getting more action shots of the adjustment with the feeler guage-----

 

haha. i have a video that show show the guage slides in and out. i also have a sound clip coming. the videos are uploading and they take forever

 

the comments dont bother me. i actually like the conversations because they answer commong questions

 

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/kvhzuPQjDLQ"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kvhzuPQjDLQ" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

 

phee sounds improved. Have you noticed any difference when you drive?

My car seems to pull harder on the highway and the pedal feels more responsive. I thought it was just me but I had to drop it at 40 tonight and my wife commented that the car felt faster. For the first time in a while it actually caught a gear hard.

 

rob- were yours all loose or any of them tight?- a little or a lot- like the tech used the wrong guage as you mentioned being careful about...I paint mine green and red to make it easy
Was it just Intakes or exhaust too?

Either of you happen to check what they were at before adjustment?

The car should run great now- I dont know if its necessary but wont hurt to pull the ol clock fuse and let the ecu learn how things are now with clean egr ports- clean everything- better flow-valve timing correct and not need to be compensated for!
Thats just my opinion- maybe I enjoy resetting the ecu and taking it for a relearn drive
(maniacal laughter fades as I drive away)

Would both you Please check the fuel use/ mileage- robs good about that anyway so we can see if this does a dramatic improvement

I am thinking this is a good job to start in the evening, removing parts and letting seafoam-deep creep or whatever you like to clean the crud from the valve covers and egr ports by soaking them overnight- they its just a final wipe out- washout- dry and by the time its ready--- the valve adjustment is done

In the valve covers- thats oil residue stuff that gets splashed up and is proof of partially burned fuel and oil vapors circulating in the engine and getting pumped by the pcv to the TB inlet.
Some might think it shows a reason to clean the oil passages- seafoam works great for that for sure- fsttyms1 engine was spotless inside when he tore it down for fun- at 200k miles~

 

yup. my first gear really pulls and i chirped secon last night at the races

 

i took notes! intakes were loose on 13 and 5. exhaust was loose on 456 and cylinder 2 was tight on the intake side

 

Nicw write up! I argued with the shop owner/mechanic who did my timing belt. I wanted him to do my valve adjustement, but he kept insisting that it was hydraullic and it couldn't be done. But this is the guy who fucked up my power steering pump by overtigthening the belt. Again another argument. I wont be going back to him again.

Anyways, looks like I will be doing this myself.

I was curious though. Is it necessary to remove the timing belt cover as I thought the peephole covered with the rubber grommit actually showed the number on the pully to indicate TDC for the specific cylinder labelled? I thought I saw that somewhere, and if you can, that should save some time.

 

good write up man, but fuck that

 

some jobs are worth paying a Pro to do it for you-
When you have done it 20 times its 2nd nature- the bolts come off- bang bang and its done in 2 hours- get paid for 4-6= skilled tech

I do a mental $ calc of how many chiro visits to do this repair myself vs $ to shop
On this one= agree with above poster

 

lol. i can help if you need it lol

 

you can use the peephole. but i did it to inspect my belt. and you have to shine th elight just right to get it there. plus its going to be hard to see the TDC line above the pulley

 

Tom mine were all loose out byt .002 on all, so .010+ on intake. Exhaust were fine.

My recent trip 540 miles 18.8 gal = 28.7

In fairness I was driving 85+ on my trip, idled for 30 minutes and didn't take it easy on the 20ish miles of city. I was in a rush that day.

 

well you had a few 30 mpg trips before adjust, so the next few should tell
that 1st tank is going to be playtime as the engine finally operates properly now!!

How did you like that go-nogo guage- slip it in - it either doesnt go in at all- it goes in and keeps going or it goes in and stops-== your set right there~

While its easy to believe a tech effed up so bad--its still appalling to me. One valve off I can see happening to anyone- but all of the intakes! must have not looked at the guage and de de deeee

 

Tom - my mpg is off because of the style of driving. I used cruise less and was driving very fast.

Quick look at my mileage would suggest it's the same, if not slightly better. But I did just switch over to a K&N air filter Monday.

 

how much would it cost to get this done at a shop?

 

$600

 

yep- got to figure ~the book~ gives at least 4 hours for this job- maybe up to 6, at the local private shop rate of $90 per hour.....or the dealer $125
To make most efficient use of your dollar: IMO
Its a combined job to an extent, if you are doing the timing belt/105 service, and clean the intake manifolds EGR ports and install a thermoblock heat spacer under the manifold while its all apart...help spread the total expense across a few department budgets- just like at work!

 

doing my valves tomorrow. should be easier now since it was explained clearly and with pictures.

 

thanks for the info

damn i need some more mechanic friends

 

well id did my valve a couple of day ago and all the intake valves were off and one exhaust valve. also had to wait till today to drive my car bc i got my valve covers painted.
my car rides a lot smoother now and i feel a bit more of a kick when i down shift and floor it.

 

is a good feeling isnt it?

 

its a great feeling. especially when you turn it on and no more clicking.

 

get any pics of details or tips you figured out to pass along there rajca?
Painted covers hmmmm- how would that go with my polished intake manifold.....

 

take your time when adjusting. adjusting them is easy just make sure u take your time with it.
the timing cover was kinda hard to get out and u need to loosen up the p/s pump. other than that their was no problem. with chrome i dont think it would look nice. ill post a pic of my engine bay later when i come back from school.

 

also the rear one is painted but u cant see it that well.

 

sweet! that looks great man!

 

so did you use my DIY or the service book?>

 

dont have a service book, used all data for the valve adjustment procedure and torque specs. i have take my engine (most of it) apart so many times that i can put it back together with my eyes closed.

but i read your diy over twice to be sure im not messing anything up.

 

Ok.. who wants to do mine?







Free ride in a 6 speed

 

if u come to my place i can do it.

 

 

Is an oil change recommended after valve adjustment?

Reason I ask is because I need to do an oil change soon and was wondering if I should wait until after the adjustment or just go ahead and do it now.

 

Well, I don't think I am going to try and tackle this myself. I asked the dealer today when I was picking up a part and they said $190 plus parts and tax. What parts are needed for this? Just gaskets or something? Not that bad of a price and that was at the Acura dealer in town that usually charges a arm and a leg for everything.

 

yea. you should replace the gaskets when you do it. i was gunna offer to do it since im in GA and thats pretty close to you....but oh well

 

Drive it up i will.... I cant wait to ride in the 6 speed with NO vtec.

 

If you can do the conversion you can do this. Its very simple.