Valve Adjustment DIY in progress
#121
B A N N E D
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#123
Pro
iTrader: (3)
just in case you guys need the acura instructions on doing a valve clearance adjustment here it is!
1 Remove the cylinder head covers.
2 Remove the front upper cover .
3 Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/1.jpg)
4 Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/22.jpg)
5 Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/3.jpg)
6 If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
7 Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance.
Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/4.jpg)
8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
9 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/5.jpg)
10 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 2 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
11 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/6.jpg)
12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 5 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
13 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 5 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/7.jpg)
14 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 3 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
15 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/8.jpg)
16 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 6 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 6 cylinder.
1 Remove the cylinder head covers.
2 Remove the front upper cover .
3 Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/1.jpg)
4 Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/22.jpg)
5 Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/3.jpg)
6 If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
7 Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance.
Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/4.jpg)
8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
9 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/5.jpg)
10 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 2 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
11 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/6.jpg)
12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 5 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
13 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 5 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/7.jpg)
14 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 3 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
15 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/8.jpg)
16 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 6 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 6 cylinder.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r33/juanclopez2786/9.jpg)
#130
Thanks everyone for great info and diagrams. Yes, I just notice there's a line at the bottom of peephole which is purpose for align with bottom notches on the cam, right. Umm still can't decide on getting gasket or not...
#132
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
and i would do the valve cover gaskets at a bare mininuim, cause the rubber/seal does harden over time and doesn't comform as well to the surfaces
the other ones i would still replace too. but they have an ALOT better chance of being reused successfully, cause they are a metal gasket
also you are correct about that line in the bottom of the peephole with lining up the notches
#135
Team Owner
It's a mandatory adjustment. If they get too loose you lose power and they get noisy. Over time it can pound the seats out and cause excessive valvetrain wear. If they get too tight (exhaust) you will burn an exhaust valve and lose power and mpg. Labor to fix a burned valve starts at $800 and could go much higher.
#136
Back to a MT!
After being annoyed by my valves for a long time, I will hopefully be doing the adjustment soon (probably in 3 weeks).
For the people with the Type S - Did you remove your IRMC? The manual notes to remove that. It's been a while since I have been back there to see where its attached. Anyone do with with the Strut bar in or can you work around it?
For the people with the Type S - Did you remove your IRMC? The manual notes to remove that. It's been a while since I have been back there to see where its attached. Anyone do with with the Strut bar in or can you work around it?
#139
Wye-Ey-Fore Sicks-Spd
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don't know if this was answered yet, but what are the consequences of adjusting them using the wrong lines? the timing belt cover lines and the cog lines look pretty close together. and yes, i did remove my IMRC.
#141
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When i did this i didnt take off my cover because i figured i could jus pop down the rubber look threw the whole and line it up wit the line thats marked on the plastic over ....question is does that line up properly or should i line it up wit the marks on the head????
#145
2003 TL-p
?
ok i am in the middle of doing the valve adjustment, most intake valves were pretty loose, most being closer to .010 inch, adjusted them to spec now. but every signal exhaust valve was tight. tight enough that the .010 inch gauge had drag. is this normal? engine has 88500 miles and not very hard driving. even bought a few new different feeler gauges to make sure and i get the same result. just want to make sure things are ok before i close everything up, any input greatly appreciated.
#147
2003 TL-p
#148
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Hmm... I'm debating whether I should attempt this or not. I'm at 170k, and have yet to do it. I don't hear any clicking, though I think only loose ones click. Unfortunately, the tight valves are the potentially damaging ones, and they don't click. Also, MPG is fine.
I'll try it out after I put in my spacers, so I'll have at least a little more experience.
I'll try it out after I put in my spacers, so I'll have at least a little more experience.
#149
When each cylinder is at TDC, there seems to be slight play in the rockers. Are you supposed to hold this rocker up and then adjust the clearance, or don't even touch the rocker and just try to slide in the feeler and adjust it?
I did this yesterday without lifting the rocker manually, and I feel like my ticking is louder.
I did this yesterday without lifting the rocker manually, and I feel like my ticking is louder.
#152
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
The ticking is caused by a valve being too loose. Loose valves will not generally cause damage. As your valves are now ticking louder, it would seem that you may have loosened them further. The rockers may come in to play, but from what I have read, they do not need to be lifted. You should probably wait for someone more experienced to chime in, as I'm just speculating.
#153
you are measuring the amount of clearance/slack between the parts
so dont lift anything!
use a go-no go feeler guage
It has a tapered slide in, then hits a larger stop at the stated amount
If it slides right past that upper limit, the valve is loose
If it wont slide in easily and come to a stop- its too tight
when it slides in and comes to a stop- its right!
well worth the few dollars to have the right tool for this job
Experienced techs can use a single size feeler guage and know what 4 lbs drag is,,
but for the rest of us-
set it- tighten nut, recheck
do all of the valves- then recheck each one,,
might be a tick off as you learned how to tighten the nut without moving the adjuster
so dont lift anything!
use a go-no go feeler guage
It has a tapered slide in, then hits a larger stop at the stated amount
If it slides right past that upper limit, the valve is loose
If it wont slide in easily and come to a stop- its too tight
when it slides in and comes to a stop- its right!
well worth the few dollars to have the right tool for this job
Experienced techs can use a single size feeler guage and know what 4 lbs drag is,,
but for the rest of us-
set it- tighten nut, recheck
do all of the valves- then recheck each one,,
might be a tick off as you learned how to tighten the nut without moving the adjuster
#154
a mechanics stethascope can pick out loose valves thru the valve cover
but not tight ones
If you are doing the 105 or anywhere around that- its time for valve adjust and new spark plugs
but not tight ones
If you are doing the 105 or anywhere around that- its time for valve adjust and new spark plugs
#155
Team Owner
Just keep in mind, too tight especially on the exhaust valves is worse than too loose. Too tight will result in a burned exhaust valve. That's one of the problems is exhaust valves usually tighten up as things wear and they don't make any noise until it's too late. That's why I would go on a scheduled valve adjustment plan regardless of noise.
#156
I suspect that I loosened the exhaust valves too much. Most of the intake valves seemed to be good, but many of the exhaust valves seemed tight. Although, my problem is that the rockers have play and can be lifted up by hand, which can mean significant differences in measurement. This is the only speculation I can make as to why the valves are ticking more now.
This guy on the CL forum had the same question as I did, and someone answered that you are indeed supposed to lift the rocker before measuring.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=valve+adjust
This guy on the CL forum had the same question as I did, and someone answered that you are indeed supposed to lift the rocker before measuring.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=valve+adjust
#157
2003 TL-p
well from the way i did my adjustment (assuming its right) it doesnt matter if you lift the rocker to insert the feeler gauge, as long as the rocker cant be lifted or moved up and down when the feeler gauge is in; and light drag is present, it should be ok. how loud is the ticking?
#158
Louder than before. Can hear it inside the car. I won't have time to do it until next week, so I gotta drive the car lightly until then. I hope nothing will get damaged since I pretty much loosened everything.
The way you did it would be the same thing as lifting the rocker because that means the play in the rocker is eliminated completely. I guess I gotta go back and redo it. Someone told me that I wasn't supposed to lift the rocker before adjusting (i.e. let the rocker rest on the gauge), but apparently that's not right.
The way you did it would be the same thing as lifting the rocker because that means the play in the rocker is eliminated completely. I guess I gotta go back and redo it. Someone told me that I wasn't supposed to lift the rocker before adjusting (i.e. let the rocker rest on the gauge), but apparently that's not right.
#160
2003 TL-p
Louder than before. Can hear it inside the car. I won't have time to do it until next week, so I gotta drive the car lightly until then. I hope nothing will get damaged since I pretty much loosened everything.
The way you did it would be the same thing as lifting the rocker because that means the play in the rocker is eliminated completely. I guess I gotta go back and redo it. Someone told me that I wasn't supposed to lift the rocker before adjusting (i.e. let the rocker rest on the gauge), but apparently that's not right.
The way you did it would be the same thing as lifting the rocker because that means the play in the rocker is eliminated completely. I guess I gotta go back and redo it. Someone told me that I wasn't supposed to lift the rocker before adjusting (i.e. let the rocker rest on the gauge), but apparently that's not right.
good luck with the readjustment, hope everything works out for you.
i cant hear any ticking inside, its been running smoother, more powerful, and better fuel economy so far. all i can hear is a slight valve train chatter which was no louder than before. hard to tell whats making tics with that stupid purge solenoid valve, but if your valves are making more noise than that then, they are most likely loose.
Last edited by gold2003tl (90); 01-09-2011 at 06:37 PM.