Valve Adjustment DIY in progress
#81
No He Can't
iTrader: (2)
I didn't really do the conversion. I helped out with it, but didn't do most of the work. I could help someone doing it to learn and be able to do the next time, but I don't want to attempt something like this. I may just get the repair manual and grab a buddy here in town that has done valve adjustments before, just never on a TL.
#82
It should be noted that the pictures line up the wrong line for TDC on each cylinder. There is a notch at the edge of the teeth on the sprocket. You can see them in the picture and notice them more when you're doing it. According the HELMS manual you could line up the line on the edge of the teeth. NOT the line in the middle of the sprocket.
#83
It should be noted that the pictures line up the wrong line for TDC on each cylinder. There is a notch at the edge of the teeth on the sprocket. You can see them in the picture and notice them more when you're doing it. According the HELMS manual you could line up the line on the edge of the teeth. NOT the line in the middle of the sprocket.
#84
From Phee descriptions for the valve adjustment, it will take a lot of time to remove the tbelt cover and that is perfectly right the way it is. I think using his descriptions, you can actually skip that rear tbelt cover part, by using the front cam markings, and use the crank bolt for turning, and that will save you a lot of time.
#86
Excellent question. Once you get the valve covers off you'll notice, especially on the back one, that they gaskets are really hard and not pliable anymore. You should get two valve cover replacement gaskets.
The kits from the dealership, the ones I used, have a pain in the ass grommet gaskets for the 5 bolts for the cover. Those are a real pain in the ass to remove. You have to remove them like removing a tire off a rim. I got sick of replacing them so I only did the back side since those were the ones that were stiff from heat it appeared. But, you should certainly replace the gasket around the covers and the gaskets for the spark plug holes. The spark plug hole gaskets are a pain as well.
I still have the directions from a budy of mine that works at a dealership. I'll try to scan them in tonight and get them on the site. I just did mine today following the directions in the first post and they're pretty dead on minus the TDC thing I pointed out. In addition, You don't have to remove the timing belt cover all the way if you don't want to. I just removed the 5 bolts and peep'd in to check the marks. That saved some time on the disassembly and reassembly.
The kits from the dealership, the ones I used, have a pain in the ass grommet gaskets for the 5 bolts for the cover. Those are a real pain in the ass to remove. You have to remove them like removing a tire off a rim. I got sick of replacing them so I only did the back side since those were the ones that were stiff from heat it appeared. But, you should certainly replace the gasket around the covers and the gaskets for the spark plug holes. The spark plug hole gaskets are a pain as well.
I still have the directions from a budy of mine that works at a dealership. I'll try to scan them in tonight and get them on the site. I just did mine today following the directions in the first post and they're pretty dead on minus the TDC thing I pointed out. In addition, You don't have to remove the timing belt cover all the way if you don't want to. I just removed the 5 bolts and peep'd in to check the marks. That saved some time on the disassembly and reassembly.
Last edited by Acura2g; 03-30-2009 at 04:20 PM.
#87
Instructor
Thanks - I'm getting ready to do mine in a few weeks. I wasn't planning on replacing the gaskets, but guess I will now. The info on the correct line to use seems pretty cruicial - I hope that didn't screw up Phee's adjustments! Just curious how you turned the engine - I've ready several different methods of doing it. How hard was it to turn / line up properly?
#88
Its not that difficult to do. You need a torque wrench, long extension, and 19mm socket. I like to jack the car up and take the wheel off so I have more room. Some people just turn the wheel to the right, but I think its thats harder. Stick the socket through the hole on the passenger side wheel well and turn clockwise. Have a buddy check the marks or you can do it yourself, but its harder. If you're having problems with resistance you can take the spark plugs out and that may help.
#89
Instructor
Thanks. What's the purpose of the torque wrench, though - isn't that just when you're tightening to make sure it's not over / under tightened?? So you did it without taking out the plugs?
#91
Instructor
#93
What happens if you don't adjust the valves?
Will anything bad happen to the engine if the valve adjustment is not performed?
#94
well your engine will tick and make noise. if you never ever ever adjust the valves and they get waaaay out of sec, they can hit the tops of your pistons and bend, causing catastrophic failure of your engine.
honestly, its very rare, but you should get your valves adjusted every 100k to get better gas milage, smoother idle, better ride, and more power.
honestly, its very rare, but you should get your valves adjusted every 100k to get better gas milage, smoother idle, better ride, and more power.
#100
if you never ever ever adjust the valves and they get waaaay out of sec, they can hit the tops of your pistons and bend, causing catastrophic failure of your engine.
Where did you get this information? I've never heard this before, and I don't see how it's even possible. Can you explain?
Where did you get this information? I've never heard this before, and I don't see how it's even possible. Can you explain?
#101
Three Wheelin'
if you never ever ever adjust the valves and they get waaaay out of sec, they can hit the tops of your pistons and bend, causing catastrophic failure of your engine.
Where did you get this information? I've never heard this before, and I don't see how it's even possible. Can you explain?
Where did you get this information? I've never heard this before, and I don't see how it's even possible. Can you explain?
I'm actually not even certain this would happen. However you can get valve float in high reving/over reving situations, so it might be possible.
#102
if you never ever ever adjust the valves and they get waaaay out of sec, they can hit the tops of your pistons and bend, causing catastrophic failure of your engine.
Where did you get this information? I've never heard this before, and I don't see how it's even possible. Can you explain?
Where did you get this information? I've never heard this before, and I don't see how it's even possible. Can you explain?
#103
Team Owner
I've never ever heard of a valve stretching and I usually deal with pushrod engines with lots of spring pressure. I think that's a non-issue. More commonly, the intakes get too much clearance and make noise. The exhaust recedes and the clearances get too tight. Eventually the exhaust valve won't close all the way causing it to overheat and fail.
Getting ready to do mine at 80k.
Getting ready to do mine at 80k.
#104
I've never ever heard of a valve stretching and I usually deal with pushrod engines with lots of spring pressure. I think that's a non-issue. More commonly, the intakes get too much clearance and make noise. The exhaust recedes and the clearances get too tight. Eventually the exhaust valve won't close all the way causing it to overheat and fail.
Getting ready to do mine at 80k.
Getting ready to do mine at 80k.
#105
Team Owner
I agree with you, I was trying to make sense out of phee's comment that ignoring valve adjustment could result in piston contact. I haven't heard of valve stretching in many years. This may be off by a mile, but I'm thinking it happened on early z-28s.[some foggy memory of valve "tuliping"] But I agree, it was a high spring pressure, extreme duty problem.
As far as a valve hitting a piston from it, no way. I can safely say that only happens if it drops a valve or gets out of time. If a valve stretched the required amount to hit a piston, it would have a dead miss on that cylinder a long time before it contacted the piston.
Off topic but I kind of like the 2nd gen forum, more DIY people.
#107
Team Owner
Definately. Been there done that too many times. Luckily mine was "barely" an interference engine. I learned to feel when the power was falling off up top and shift before it got severe enough to smack a piston.
#109
The pictures of the timing gear alignment is incorrect. The line on the outer edge of the gear is to be lined up with the mark on the rear cover behind it. The picture shows the other line on the gear lined up with the rear cover. That line is to be lined up with the mark on the front cover inside the access hole.
#110
Like a BOSS
im a bit lost on this. . .
when do you adjust your intake valves then your exhaust valves. . . you cant do them at the same time
can someone explain this a littel bit better?
when do you adjust your intake valves then your exhaust valves. . . you cant do them at the same time
can someone explain this a littel bit better?
#112
read the diy again- it says what valves adjust when
#113
Like a BOSS
wow you were 100% not helpful thanks for your absolutely useless post.
OP does not explain at all when you adjust intake valves and exhaust, maybe im retarded but I didnt know you could adjust both the intake and exhaust at the same time. If someone could please explain if your supposed to measure both intake and exhaust valves at TDC at the same time it would be greatly appreciated.
so say im on bank 4 do I set it to TDC then adjust intake and exhaust or do I need to rotate the motor before I can do the exhaust valves for bank 4
#114
Team Owner
wow you were 100% not helpful thanks for your absolutely useless post.
OP does not explain at all when you adjust intake valves and exhaust, maybe im retarded but I didnt know you could adjust both the intake and exhaust at the same time. If someone could please explain if your supposed to measure both intake and exhaust valves at TDC at the same time it would be greatly appreciated.
so say im on bank 4 do I set it to TDC then adjust intake and exhaust or do I need to rotate the motor before I can do the exhaust valves for bank 4
OP does not explain at all when you adjust intake valves and exhaust, maybe im retarded but I didnt know you could adjust both the intake and exhaust at the same time. If someone could please explain if your supposed to measure both intake and exhaust valves at TDC at the same time it would be greatly appreciated.
so say im on bank 4 do I set it to TDC then adjust intake and exhaust or do I need to rotate the motor before I can do the exhaust valves for bank 4
I'm in a hurry but if no one has explained in more detail when I get back into town I'll break it down a little more.
You do all valves at the same time period but they have to be fully closed when you do this. At certain points in the crank rotation, only certain valves will be closed so you do every valve that is closed, rotate the crank until some more are closed and do all of those. The manual will tell you which ones are closed at what crank or cam position. I usually cheat and wiggle the rockers on some engines to determine which ones I can do at which time if I don't have a manual in front of me. Doesn't work for all engines. You can watch the valves open and close as you rotate the cam by eyeball to see which ones to do. The manual is like a cheat sheet.
#115
Like a BOSS
I'm in a hurry but if no one has explained in more detail when I get back into town I'll break it down a little more.
You do all valves at the same time period but they have to be fully closed when you do this. At certain points in the crank rotation, only certain valves will be closed so you do every valve that is closed, rotate the crank until some more are closed and do all of those. The manual will tell you which ones are closed at what crank or cam position. I usually cheat and wiggle the rockers on some engines to determine which ones I can do at which time if I don't have a manual in front of me. Doesn't work for all engines. You can watch the valves open and close as you rotate the cam by eyeball to see which ones to do. The manual is like a cheat sheet.
You do all valves at the same time period but they have to be fully closed when you do this. At certain points in the crank rotation, only certain valves will be closed so you do every valve that is closed, rotate the crank until some more are closed and do all of those. The manual will tell you which ones are closed at what crank or cam position. I usually cheat and wiggle the rockers on some engines to determine which ones I can do at which time if I don't have a manual in front of me. Doesn't work for all engines. You can watch the valves open and close as you rotate the cam by eyeball to see which ones to do. The manual is like a cheat sheet.
thank you, I was not sure what ones would be closed at what time, THAT'S what I was getting at, I don't have a manual, and the DIY is not all that specific with anything its more like "hey look I took some pictures when I did mine, and kind told you what you need to do"
#116
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
when the cam gear points at 1 you do all of the cylinder one's valves, then turn it to 4, do all of cylinder 4's valves and so on,
also your post at 7:31 IS NOT the firing order, it is what cylinders are numbered what (also 1&3 are at the timing belt end), the actual firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 which should also be what order the numbers on the cam gears are, and the order you shoud adjust the valves
GL with adjusting the valves, it is not very hard just a time consuming task
btw, you look through the timing belt cover through that little access hole (right above the alternater)to line up the numbers, (not the actual numbers but the little lines next to the number) to the little raised pointer in the cover
also your post at 7:31 IS NOT the firing order, it is what cylinders are numbered what (also 1&3 are at the timing belt end), the actual firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 which should also be what order the numbers on the cam gears are, and the order you shoud adjust the valves
GL with adjusting the valves, it is not very hard just a time consuming task
btw, you look through the timing belt cover through that little access hole (right above the alternater)to line up the numbers, (not the actual numbers but the little lines next to the number) to the little raised pointer in the cover
Last edited by friesm2000; 11-27-2009 at 05:52 PM.
#117
Like a BOSS
when the cam gear points at 1 you do all of the cylinder one's valves, then turn it to 4, do all of cylinder 4's valves and so on,
also your post at 7:31 IS NOT the firing order, it is what cylinders are numbered what (also 1&3 are at the timing belt end), the actual firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 which should also be what order the numbers on the cam gears are, and the order you shoud adjust the valves
GL with adjusting the valves, it is not very hard just a time consuming task
btw, you look through the timing belt cover through that little access hole (right above the alternater)to line up the numbers, (not the actual numbers but the little lines next to the number) to the little raised pointer in the cover
also your post at 7:31 IS NOT the firing order, it is what cylinders are numbered what (also 1&3 are at the timing belt end), the actual firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 which should also be what order the numbers on the cam gears are, and the order you shoud adjust the valves
GL with adjusting the valves, it is not very hard just a time consuming task
btw, you look through the timing belt cover through that little access hole (right above the alternater)to line up the numbers, (not the actual numbers but the little lines next to the number) to the little raised pointer in the cover
Ive done valve lash before but only on inline engines. . .
as for the firing order question, all I posted was the location of the pistons in the engine
#118
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
and the location of the pistons in your little diagram were correct just:
...........firewall
.........123
belts intake tranny
.........456
...........radiater
don't mind the ......, otherwise the numbers and the text be aligned against the side