btw- you used a double double strength seafoam in the gas tank- 2 oz per gal is cleaning does- you used 4 oz per gallon
Could have stirred up a bit too much crud all at once
Repeat proper gas tank method with 1/2 tank and 1 can in the intake vac
How much did you use there? which place did you think was the vac port?

 

I checked the gaps..only one of them were off, so I fixed it to the proper gap.

Yes, the NGK plugs came protected with a cardboard, but I did find one that was a little off..it was fixed.

Plugs were changed to NGK Iridium.. problem occured before the seafoam, before the plug change, still occurs now.

Sounds like the valves, or it may be arcing someone suggested?

I followed the directions on the below link... 01tl4tl, i followed ur picture on page 4..that's exactly how i put the seafoam through the engine.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...seafoam&page=4

The picture of the Seafoam can showed a 16 oz can, and that's all they sold at the Auto Zone here.. I guess I used too much. Yikes.

But all of this still doesn't answer my main topic: Using Seafoam in my tank makes my car repond better, thus makes it have more power immediately..

Does the seafoam in the tank really do something then? This can't be all in my head..it's a crazy difference.

 

NGK: Double Platinum (original equipement Manufacturer )
Extra Long Life Double Platinum Plug,
NGK extreme life plug. By using the highest platinum content in the industry, NGK has created an extremely long life spark plug. Laser welded platinum tip on center electrode and platinum tip on the ground electrode. The center electrode is taper cut which aids in focusing the spark while reducing the voltage necessary to start the combustion process, this will provide better throttle response, improve efficiency and allow a smoother idle. Stainless steel washer reduces plug self-backing


According to NGK ..we have a double platinum as original equipement

http://ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1377008

 

Myta : Why don't you try to reset the ECU by pulling the #13 fuse .Remember to do it with the engine cold :
Start the engine and let it warm up ( no load ) until both fans run twice (very important )
Then let it idle with no throttle for 10 minutes ....then you're good to go .

 

and gen3 comes with platinum as its a better plug- so we can use it too
I dont recall if the oe were dbl or singl- didnt care~ went with the acurazinr advice of iridium ix for gen2

how much was the plug gap off? too wide or shallow gap?
you could have exchanged it at the parts store for a perfect one

do a fuse 13 reset-- I had not heard of waiting for the fans--isnt the pass side one controlled by the AC -and in extreme temp demands it backs up the driver fan?
When I have burped the radiator per the book it had one fan required for sure

 

the seafoam diy needs fixing - we used to do 1/2 in 1/4 tank but when you refill at the light - not much cleaning has been done and then its heavily diluted-below cleaning strength

1 can in 1/2 tank seemed easier for people to get the best results on the first try
Doing it double that may have increased power slightly for that tank

Try it the correct way and see how it goes
You said you cleaned the TB plate too- with carb cleaner??

 

the end result was defective plug gap- not iridium are bad for the TL

I quit my job as Quality Control Inspector for stupid problems in Life--
Good to see someone else has found the one in a million problem--thanks for taking over--much appreciated~

 

 

According to Acura Servicenews you have to let the cooling fat cycle twice ....please read this link

And yes , ours plugs are NGK double platinum

 

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/B030100.PDF

 

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/B030100.PDF

Please read the section Idle Learn Procedure

 

Why does it have to learn idle?

 

Reset the ECU by pulling the 13 fuse then you need to go though the Idle learn procedure....in order to have a smoother and better idle no matter if the engine has load or not ...

 

When you lift off the gas the tranny may up-shift (if it's not already in 5th gear). Depending how aggressively you get back on the gas the tranny may downshift causing your rpm's to jump up also. If it's not down-shifting it might be a tranny problem or your ecu doen't know you want to go faster. Your ecu knows this because of the Throttle Position Sensor. So your TPS may be getting flakey. If the TPS check out okay, and your rpm's still drop (i guess this is an upshift on the tranny) then your tranny is whacked out, or maybe our TQ is doing weird things.

One suggestion is to drive it in auto-stick manual mode. See if you can make the problem go away by shifting manually. This removes the TPS from the equation. Also you can check your TPS with an OBD2 scan tool by view the live data as you exercise the gas pedal thru it's full range. Graph it may be better as it may catch strange blips if it is getting flakey.

Another *off the wall* suggestion is to put 87-89 octane for quarter of a tank. If seafoam does lower your overall octane, then this may cause the tranny to do different things because the timing is now retarded to avoid pinging. The perceived improvement might be that the tranny is shifting properly in this mode.

One last comment - is your check engine light on?

 

Yes, it's sluggish while in auto-manual mode. Keep in mind, the rpm dropping and low power output happened way before doing seafoam..

No. No check like on right now.

 

Lets elaborate on this a little. Do auto-stick mode while cruising at 40mph and in 5th gear. Now floor it and down shit to 3rd as fast as you can. Is it still sluggish? Does the tranny shift to 3rd in less than say 2 seconds?

Yep i saw your other posts. I don't think this is a seafoam problem. Have you checked your ATF fluid lately?

 

Did the auto stick mode, tranny shifts into third in about 2 secs. Had the mechnic check the fluid, he just smelled it and says it doesn't smell burnt.

 

This may seem like a stupid question, but if you've already put the seafoam into your intake, have you done an oil change. I know that you need to get an oil change afterwards because there will be unspent seafoam in your oil, and it is made of larger particles than oil, and sludges your engine.

 

you know this HOW? from where? its a bit off~
but welcome to the forum anyway!

seafoam doesnt get into the oil in mass quantities when done thru the gas and intake vac methods,,a tiny bit via normal piston ring bypass- but not huge amounts that would be an issue to the oil..some gas gets in the oil too....thats normal combustion effect

If you put it directly into the engine oil and idle or drive as desired,
then change oil and filter..the filter will be full of sludge allright- but not from seafoam particles- from sludge and crud that WAS in the engine oil passageways, pan and pump pickup screen.

If you want to use it in the oil and do some driving to cirulate it and really scrub- then its good plan to install a new oil filter so it can catch all the particles of many sizes that will be coming at it--it will have get lot of crud in it- cut one open and see
then do an oil and new filter change

In case you havent noticed,, its a liquid- low on the chart of stuff from the oil barrel- its 100% petroleum product.
can be used in aerosol form as engine starting fluid, excellent household lubricant and a thousand more things--sold as Deep Creep in parts stores. pure seafoam in a spray can, with more room on the can for more uses and expanded directions on use for the engine-intake methods