Using the Blank Button For A Factory Like Radar Detector Install!
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Using the Blank Button For A Factory Like Radar Detector Install!
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=18503
Has anyone seen this thread by psmart2? He shows a pix of a Escort 8500 installed, and it looks great, like factory installed. He uses the "blank button" by the gauge light adjuster which is under the fog light and cruise control.
I have bought an 8500 with a direct wire smartcord, and want to do it right. Anyone know how to do the proper install?
Has anyone seen this thread by psmart2? He shows a pix of a Escort 8500 installed, and it looks great, like factory installed. He uses the "blank button" by the gauge light adjuster which is under the fog light and cruise control.
I have bought an 8500 with a direct wire smartcord, and want to do it right. Anyone know how to do the proper install?
#4
After seeing the original post by psmart2, I decided to install the same way. It was a bit more complicated than I anticipated...
(1) After removing the driver's panel and then unscrewing the blank button, I found that it was not completely open on the back. The button is fairly deep (>1 inch) and has center fin molded into it, from front to rear. I used a rotary tool to grind out the center fin, leaving the button completely open and hollow when viewed from the rear.
(2) I then dissasembled The Passport 8500 remote display. A mute button, two LED's, and various electrical components are mounted on a small (1 inch x 1 inch) circuit board. I made measurements on the blank button face to drill holes for the mute button and 2 LED's to stick through. Not too tough, but you do need to take your time lining them up right - you only get one chance here
(3) Next I attempted to insert the circuit board into the blank button to test my drilled holes, but I found that because of the shape of the circuit board (the original housing has a slanted front) it would not slide into the hollowed out rear
. To make matters worse, I couldn't cut slots in the button walls to provide space because the part of the circuit board which was causing it not to fit would then protrude out of the front of the dash
. The only way to make it fit was to cut off the front right corner of the circuit board (using the rotary tool), cutting across two traces. I then re-soldered two wire connections which were orphaned by the surgery. The modified board fit neatly into the hollow rear of the blank button, and I found that my drilled holes lined up perfectly!
. Attaching the original housing's overlay completes a factory-look installation ![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(4) Finally, I used hot-melt glue to secure the board within the button cavity (making sure to position so that the mute button is functional), screwed the button back onto the driver's panel, re-mounted the panel, and ran the electrical. I tapped into the stereo's switched power on the driver's side fuse box (yel/blk wire on connector O, position 11 - this connector is light green and a little more than halfway back on the inside of the driver's side fuse box) and used a convenient chassis screw for a ground point. All that was left was to run the radar cord up the A pillar and across to my detector. I chose to mount my detector high on the windshield, as far left as possible (right next to the pillar). The installation works great
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Now that I think of it, I should have taken pictures during the process, but I don't want to unassemble now because of the glue. I also was very busy this weekend, because at the same time I installed new speakers all around (Infinity 652i 6.5" 2-ways in the rear doors, 605cs 6.5 component woofers in the front doors, and 1" component tweeters on the side-view mirror covers), and bypassed the BOSE EQ so that I could use the OEM headunit's amps with a flat output. Simply replacing the speakers without bypassing the EQ results in very exaggerated high-end (the crazy EQ setting is how BOSE gets some facsimile of high-end out of those 1-way 6" paper cones). I can't believe what a difference it made - it's like night and day! Even more amazing given that I have only added speakers, and am using the factory headunit and amps. All and all a great weekend of tinkering
(1) After removing the driver's panel and then unscrewing the blank button, I found that it was not completely open on the back. The button is fairly deep (>1 inch) and has center fin molded into it, from front to rear. I used a rotary tool to grind out the center fin, leaving the button completely open and hollow when viewed from the rear.
(2) I then dissasembled The Passport 8500 remote display. A mute button, two LED's, and various electrical components are mounted on a small (1 inch x 1 inch) circuit board. I made measurements on the blank button face to drill holes for the mute button and 2 LED's to stick through. Not too tough, but you do need to take your time lining them up right - you only get one chance here
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
(3) Next I attempted to insert the circuit board into the blank button to test my drilled holes, but I found that because of the shape of the circuit board (the original housing has a slanted front) it would not slide into the hollowed out rear
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Mad](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(4) Finally, I used hot-melt glue to secure the board within the button cavity (making sure to position so that the mute button is functional), screwed the button back onto the driver's panel, re-mounted the panel, and ran the electrical. I tapped into the stereo's switched power on the driver's side fuse box (yel/blk wire on connector O, position 11 - this connector is light green and a little more than halfway back on the inside of the driver's side fuse box) and used a convenient chassis screw for a ground point. All that was left was to run the radar cord up the A pillar and across to my detector. I chose to mount my detector high on the windshield, as far left as possible (right next to the pillar). The installation works great
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Now that I think of it, I should have taken pictures during the process, but I don't want to unassemble now because of the glue. I also was very busy this weekend, because at the same time I installed new speakers all around (Infinity 652i 6.5" 2-ways in the rear doors, 605cs 6.5 component woofers in the front doors, and 1" component tweeters on the side-view mirror covers), and bypassed the BOSE EQ so that I could use the OEM headunit's amps with a flat output. Simply replacing the speakers without bypassing the EQ results in very exaggerated high-end (the crazy EQ setting is how BOSE gets some facsimile of high-end out of those 1-way 6" paper cones). I can't believe what a difference it made - it's like night and day! Even more amazing given that I have only added speakers, and am using the factory headunit and amps. All and all a great weekend of tinkering
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow! Thanks djsteve. Appears you're very knowledgable. I am not, but think if I take my time with you instructions, I should be able to do it. Also appreciate speaker specs on the stereo. I am not crazy about the sound. Thanks again
#6
Originally posted by nickchop
Wow! Thanks djsteve. Appears you're very knowledgable. I am not, but think if I take my time with you instructions, I should be able to do it. Also appreciate speaker specs on the stereo. I am not crazy about the sound. Thanks again
Wow! Thanks djsteve. Appears you're very knowledgable. I am not, but think if I take my time with you instructions, I should be able to do it. Also appreciate speaker specs on the stereo. I am not crazy about the sound. Thanks again
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am having the "near factory look" install of the smart wire for my 8500 detector tomorrow. They are only charging $65! That includes the typical hard wiring, but also to screw with the circuitry and cut the wires. I will take some photos as they go along and post it to this thread.
To see what it looks like, take a look at this thread about half way down the page. It looks great.
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showt...&threadid=18503
We can all argue till we're blue in the face about which detector is the best (ie Escort 8500, Valentine or Bel), but who can argue with this install! I hate wires, but want the best detector as possible. I realize there are "built-in" detectors, but the testing shows they don't compete with the dashboard units.
Will post pixs tomorrow. Out.
To see what it looks like, take a look at this thread about half way down the page. It looks great.
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showt...&threadid=18503
We can all argue till we're blue in the face about which detector is the best (ie Escort 8500, Valentine or Bel), but who can argue with this install! I hate wires, but want the best detector as possible. I realize there are "built-in" detectors, but the testing shows they don't compete with the dashboard units.
Will post pixs tomorrow. Out.
Trending Topics
#8
Purchased: April 28, 2001
Who's "THEY". For 65 bucks hell yeah Id do it too. Then all I need is another set of mounting brackets and I could have the mounting bracket and power cord ready to go in the case if I ever need to temporarily transplant it.
#9
Good luck, Nickchop, and let us know how it turns out. FYI, I just posted a picture of my install here:
http://acura-tl.com/forum/showthread...8&pagenumber=2
The LED's look a bit weird because of the long exposure time, but you get the picture. Many thanks to psmart2 who first posted this install idea. It wasn't easy to duplicate, but it looks great!
http://acura-tl.com/forum/showthread...8&pagenumber=2
The LED's look a bit weird because of the long exposure time, but you get the picture. Many thanks to psmart2 who first posted this install idea. It wasn't easy to duplicate, but it looks great!
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by edgalang
Who's "THEY". For 65 bucks hell yeah Id do it too. Then all I need is another set of mounting brackets and I could have the mounting bracket and power cord ready to go in the case if I ever need to temporarily transplant it.
Who's "THEY". For 65 bucks hell yeah Id do it too. Then all I need is another set of mounting brackets and I could have the mounting bracket and power cord ready to go in the case if I ever need to temporarily transplant it.
Well, my time is worth more than the $65. To each their own!
I don't think you read the thread. The smartcord is permanently installed within the blank button area, not "bracket mounted".
But I think you would agree if you read the entire thread by djsteve. He obviously is electronically gifted. I am not! It would take me all day to do this and even then it might not work. I don't have soldering equipment. "They" are a auto stereo install company.
djsteve- great work! I checked out your pix's they look great. I will tackle the speakers next (via someone else doing the work).
#11
Purchased: April 28, 2001
Originally posted by nickchop
I don't think you read the thread. The smartcord is permanently installed within the blank button area, not "bracket mounted".
...
djsteve- great work! I checked out your pix's they look great. I will tackle the speakers next (via someone else doing the work).
I don't think you read the thread. The smartcord is permanently installed within the blank button area, not "bracket mounted".
...
djsteve- great work! I checked out your pix's they look great. I will tackle the speakers next (via someone else doing the work).
I KNOW "The smartcord is permanently installed within the blank button area." In no way was I implying it wasnt. All I was saying was that this mod would be great so I could STORE my EXISTING cord BACK IN THE BOX so that I MAY in the future just bring the box with me without having to remove anything from my TLS BUT the acuall detector itself. When I mentioned that it would be great to have another bracket, I meant the bracket that the 8500 rests on with the silicone cups, so that I wont have to take anything out (correct me if I'm wrong, but my 8500 only came with 1 mounting bracket). All I have to do to transplant the 8500 to another vehicle would be to unplug it from the OBVIOUSLY PERMINENT smart cord, and slide it out of the EXISTING mounting bracket. No more would I have to reattach the cups in the precise location I want, and no more fumbling around with the coiled power cord.
In no way was I offering 65 dollars for labor and why would I? (Again it was pretty obvious to me that you are in the other side of the nation...duh!). I re-read my message and I could imagine why you would think that, but all you had to do was CONTINUE to read my post and judge by context that, that was not what I was implying. For 65 bucks I would do it too, meant, I would pay that much for services rendered to get my 8500 setup the same way as djsteve and yourself. Now, when I asked who "they" were, I was literally asking who was going to install it for you. Reason is, if it was say, Circuit City, or Sears Automotive, or any major brand electronics/stereo shop, THEN MAYBE I CAN GET IT DONE FOR ME ALSO FOR 65 bucks.
In no way is this post meant to flame anyone, I'm just tired of having to re-read and re-write my posts to people who dont carefully read them and instantly write a message back within 5 minutes to retaliate.
OK ok...I'm gonna chill now
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
edgalang - After further review it sounds like where on the same wave length! Right on! Yeah the installer is a local shop. I was willing to spend up to $150, so I was pleased. Sorry about the miscommunication.
#13
Purchased: April 28, 2001
Originally posted by nickchop
edgalang - After further review it sounds like where on the same wave length! Right on! Yeah the installer is a local shop. I was willing to spend up to $150, so I was pleased. Sorry about the miscommunication.
edgalang - After further review it sounds like where on the same wave length! Right on! Yeah the installer is a local shop. I was willing to spend up to $150, so I was pleased. Sorry about the miscommunication.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by djsteve
Good luck, Nickchop, and let us know how it turns out. FYI, I just posted a picture of my install here:
http://acura-tl.com/forum/showthread...8&pagenumber=2
The LED's look a bit weird because of the long exposure time, but you get the picture. Many thanks to psmart2 who first posted this install idea. It wasn't easy to duplicate, but it looks great!
Good luck, Nickchop, and let us know how it turns out. FYI, I just posted a picture of my install here:
http://acura-tl.com/forum/showthread...8&pagenumber=2
The LED's look a bit weird because of the long exposure time, but you get the picture. Many thanks to psmart2 who first posted this install idea. It wasn't easy to duplicate, but it looks great!
I swear I'm not stalking you. I admit I am copying you! I found the Infinity speakers on-line @ Crutchfield.com. Is $199 for the front and $99 for the rear a decent price? Thanks.
#15
Originally posted by nickchop
I found the Infinity speakers on-line @ Crutchfield.com. Is $199 for the front and $99 for the rear a decent price? Thanks.
I found the Infinity speakers on-line @ Crutchfield.com. Is $199 for the front and $99 for the rear a decent price? Thanks.
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Install is finished. djsteve, the installer took the green and black wires and passed them through the hole left where the housing screw was and soldered them on the bottom side. It took just under an hour. I was impressed. He is going to do my DVD/TV and speaker work.
The first picture is the top of the board after it is removed from the housing.
The first picture is the top of the board after it is removed from the housing.
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry about that. That may be a bit too large. Let's try that again...
Install is finished. djsteve, the installer took the green and black wires and passed them through the hole left where the housing screw was and soldered them on the bottom side. It took just under an hour. I was impressed. He is going to do my DVD/TV and speaker work.
The first picture is the top of the board after it is removed from the housing.
Install is finished. djsteve, the installer took the green and black wires and passed them through the hole left where the housing screw was and soldered them on the bottom side. It took just under an hour. I was impressed. He is going to do my DVD/TV and speaker work.
The first picture is the top of the board after it is removed from the housing.
#21
Very clean looking install, nickchop - congrats! I hope my instructions were helpful during the "surgery". ![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I'm glad you took some pictures - it better illustrates what I was trying to describe in words. BTW, I used the same center hole to pass through the two wires.
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I'm glad you took some pictures - it better illustrates what I was trying to describe in words. BTW, I used the same center hole to pass through the two wires.
#23
That's a decent camera, so don't worry, you can fix the quality problem. Looks to me like either your camera and/or any editing programs you used afterwards is/are set to save the pictures with a high level of JPEG compression. Look for a setting that might be labeled something like "quality" or "filesize", and increase it a bit. If it indicates a percentage, 70-80% is usually the sweet spot without making the filesize large. The first picture is blurry only because the camera autofocused on the background
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#24
Installed!
Thanks for all the helpful Info guys...
One thing I did find to help out a bit, after hot gluing the circuit board in was to add in small rubber beads and then seal the outside of the cover up. I found that the hot glue held fairly well right now, but I thought it might losen up in the long run, now I have a really tight seal in there, and absolutely no play in the button at all.
One thing I did find to help out a bit, after hot gluing the circuit board in was to add in small rubber beads and then seal the outside of the cover up. I found that the hot glue held fairly well right now, but I thought it might losen up in the long run, now I have a really tight seal in there, and absolutely no play in the button at all.
#26
Burning Brakes
I am attempting to do this modification. I have cut the circuit board and re-attached the wires. I have also drilled the holes in the blank button.
My question is how did you attach the circuit board back in the button so that it does not move. Saw that someone used hot glue, but what did you glue. Please post specific instructions on how you attached.
Thanks
My question is how did you attach the circuit board back in the button so that it does not move. Saw that someone used hot glue, but what did you glue. Please post specific instructions on how you attached.
Thanks
#27
Hi dj5,
I'm assuming that you have already removed the center fin from the back of the blank button cavity. If so, the easiest way to secure the modified circuit board is simply to fill the entire back cavity of the blank button with hot-melt glue once the board has been aligned within it. It is fine to encase the entire circuit board in a bubble of hot-melt glue...won't hurt a thing. Feel free to use a whole stick! Three things to ensure are:
(1) The board is properly aligned such that the mute button protrudes through the front and is able to be depressed without scraping the sides of the hole.
(2) The hot-melt glue doesn't run around the mute button, which would prevent it from being depressed.
(3) Hold the whole assembly in place while the glue dries, which can take several minutes if you use a decent amount.
Good luck!
-djsteve
I'm assuming that you have already removed the center fin from the back of the blank button cavity. If so, the easiest way to secure the modified circuit board is simply to fill the entire back cavity of the blank button with hot-melt glue once the board has been aligned within it. It is fine to encase the entire circuit board in a bubble of hot-melt glue...won't hurt a thing. Feel free to use a whole stick! Three things to ensure are:
(1) The board is properly aligned such that the mute button protrudes through the front and is able to be depressed without scraping the sides of the hole.
(2) The hot-melt glue doesn't run around the mute button, which would prevent it from being depressed.
(3) Hold the whole assembly in place while the glue dries, which can take several minutes if you use a decent amount.
Good luck!
-djsteve
#28
Burning Brakes
Thanks djsteve, I have removed the fin from the button and will try the hot glue this weekend. Have to go by Home Depot or Michael's to pick up a glue gun. Will let you know how it turns out.
#30
Burning Brakes
djsteve, I finished my Escort blank button project this weekend.
Everything went well and it is now installed. I attached the circuit board in the button cavity using double sided mounting tape. Seem to be holding well. I was afraid that I would glue the mute button closed if I used the hot glue.
I also moved the dimming button to where the blank button was located. Gives me a little better access to the mute button.
Thanks again, I would have never have tried this mod. without your directions.
My Pilot exhaust tips should be in Monday. This should be an easy mod. Also thinking about the body kit.
Everything went well and it is now installed. I attached the circuit board in the button cavity using double sided mounting tape. Seem to be holding well. I was afraid that I would glue the mute button closed if I used the hot glue.
I also moved the dimming button to where the blank button was located. Gives me a little better access to the mute button.
Thanks again, I would have never have tried this mod. without your directions.
My Pilot exhaust tips should be in Monday. This should be an easy mod. Also thinking about the body kit.
#33
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Doesn't the radar detector lose a little effectiveness when it's behind the tint like that? Cuz I know my rear detection on my V1 is kind of ****ty, but maybe it's just like that for rear?
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by 1999TL
Doesn't the radar detector lose a little effectiveness when it's behind the tint like that? Cuz I know my rear detection on my V1 is kind of ****ty, but maybe it's just like that for rear?
Doesn't the radar detector lose a little effectiveness when it's behind the tint like that? Cuz I know my rear detection on my V1 is kind of ****ty, but maybe it's just like that for rear?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chrisr
5G TLX Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
4
12-04-2015 02:17 AM
sockr1
Car Parts for Sale
22
10-01-2015 01:31 AM
siularbar
1/2G MDX (2001-2013)
2
09-11-2015 10:40 AM