Tune Up in the near future?

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Old 07-11-2014, 08:09 AM
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Tune Up in the near future?

Hey everyone. My '00 TL is running quite nicely now that I've resolved the known issues, like converting headlights back to HID from halogen, replacing my battery, replacing air filters, replacing the primary cooling fan motor.

One thing I've noticed, however, is that occasionally (not always) when I'm idling, I notice a very faint (what feels like a) "miss" in the engine. It's very similar to when I've had bad spark plugs in other vehicles, although not near as prominent as those cars. Oddly, however, I tend to notice it only after I haven't driven it for quite a while. I may simply overlook it while I'm driving, but it tends to be when the car is cooled off.

The tune up was supposedly done at the car lot before I bought it back in March. It's been 4 months. Should I go ahead with new spark plugs? If so, I may tackle that this weekend or next.

It doesn't seem to happen while I'm driving. Only when I idle, I can very slightly feel that "miss".
Old 07-11-2014, 08:19 AM
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Have you tried seafoaming and running it thru your gas?
Old 07-11-2014, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Have you tried seafoaming and running it thru your gas?
No I haven't. I'll probably do that first, whether that's the problem or not. Simply because I believe the car could benefit from it either way.
Old 07-11-2014, 09:25 AM
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Yeah, cleaning the fuel system always is beneficial. Also, if the TB intake and EGR passageways have not been cleaned recently, doing that will help the motor run smoother. Check for any vac leaks, replace the air filter and PCV valve if it wasn't done. Pull a plug to see what the brand is and it's condition. If it was just tuned up, the plugs should be NGK's and appear new. Have the codes read, if any. The DIY sticky has lot's of invaluable tips on common issues.
Old 07-11-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
Yeah, cleaning the fuel system always is beneficial. Also, if the TB intake and EGR passageways have not been cleaned recently, doing that will help the motor run smoother. Check for any vac leaks, replace the air filter and PCV valve if it wasn't done. Pull a plug to see what the brand is and it's condition. If it was just tuned up, the plugs should be NGK's and appear new. Have the codes read, if any. The DIY sticky has lot's of invaluable tips on common issues.
Yeah, I'll be going to the DIY's for sure. I've seen everything related to what you mentioned above.

I have changed the air filters a few weeks ago, so that's done. I'll look at the TB intake and the EGR passageways this weekend. I've never cleaned them, so there's no telling when (if ever) they were done. I'll also check for vac leaks, but I'm quite positive a friend of mine did some checking for that when we were doing some work not long ago. And I'll probably pull a plug to check it out this weekend, too.
Old 07-11-2014, 09:40 AM
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Also forgot to mention checking electrical wiring connectors, especially the ground leads.
Old 07-11-2014, 10:11 AM
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I would agree with above. Clean the throttle body and EGR system and run a fuel cleaner through your system. Couple things to note about the EGR cleaning is that the bolts that hold the top plate on are soft and break easy and using throttle body is recommended but should be done carefully because that stuff sticks to everything and won't come off. Don't do it in a porcelain sink unless you want it stained. Just an FYI.
Old 07-11-2014, 11:19 AM
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STOP!!!!
do any of you believe a used car lot (other than acura dealer) would put out the money for the CORRECT spark plugs at 8 dollars each?
or would they say `give me some plugs for an acura`- which resulted in bosch or some other bad plug for us

Remove a front spark plug and inspect- probably looks melted and just not right = overburnt by our high energy ignition = reason we have 8 dollar spark plugs!

Next inspect the front motor mount- when it fails - being vac boosted and fluid filled, it creates a mystery engine miss, expect failure every 60Kmiles +
use vac suction meter tool to ck for leakage, and visual cue is oil drips on bottom of mount- driveway

next- no one has ever done the egr service on your car- its not in any book! info found here based on ziner driver info~
remove intake manifold- egr passage and ports thru the length must be soaked and poked cleaned-
lube egr arm, clean IACV on bottom of Throttle Body and service/clean TB air plate and throttle springs
Lube throttle/cruise cables inside their housings

Now she will purr like the 200 HP toy she is!
Old 07-11-2014, 11:24 AM
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of course Seafoam is still the tool for cleaning ALL of the fuel system and downstream items, intake valves, piston tops and cat!

For average person and no stress method= buy 2 cans, add 1 can to 8 gal fuel- just under half tank and drive as normal
drives over 30 minutes really help
in another tank or 2 add 1 can to just under half tank
Done!
Old 07-11-2014, 11:27 AM
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if your intake manifold egr system is really clogged bad, machine shops have a giant soak tank they will put it in overnight, then use special reamers to clear the passages
Returned to you looking like new

NOTE! uppermost gasket when removing intake, mark which side is up.
bad things happen when its installed upside- down
Old 07-11-2014, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
STOP!!!!
do any of you believe a used car lot (other than acura dealer) would put out the money for the CORRECT spark plugs at 8 dollars each?
or would they say `give me some plugs for an acura`- which resulted in bosch or some other bad plug for us

Remove a front spark plug and inspect- probably looks melted and just not right = overburnt by our high energy ignition = reason we have 8 dollar spark plugs!

Next inspect the front motor mount- when it fails - being vac boosted and fluid filled, it creates a mystery engine miss, expect failure every 60Kmiles +
use vac suction meter tool to ck for leakage, and visual cue is oil drips on bottom of mount- driveway

next- no one has ever done the egr service on your car- its not in any book! info found here based on ziner driver info~
remove intake manifold- egr passage and ports thru the length must be soaked and poked cleaned-
lube egr arm, clean IACV on bottom of Throttle Body and service/clean TB air plate and throttle springs
Lube throttle/cruise cables inside their housings

Now she will purr like the 200 HP toy she is!
Of course I don't believe that they would use the correct parts! I already know how that game works -- which is why I plan to inspect them. Chances are, the plugs are probably old as hell and worn/burnt.
Old 07-11-2014, 08:01 PM
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or worse! the wrong plugs
it will run on the correct plugs with high miles, just not well

did we discuss the 105 timing belt/water pump service- which is when book says new plugs,,unless you operate in severe service conditions- example: living on Earth
Then it calls for 60kmiles replacement on them

with the odd repairs you have needed so far, lets figure none of that was ever done, and a new set of NGK iridium or Platinum, ~50 bucks a set of 6 is due
a sparingly applied stripe of spark plug anti seize on the upper threads or lengthwise up threads does wonders for ease of installation this time, and easy removal if you have the car in another 60kmiles
Old 07-14-2014, 11:26 AM
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Should I go with the NGK IX Iridium spark plugs for my '00 TL? I was looking on AutoZone a moment ago, and they carry them for $6.99/ea. Just want to make sure that's ideal, don't want to end up with crap.
Old 07-14-2014, 02:16 PM
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that's what many of us use, plats were stock but gen3 came with irid ix, it works perfect for us. USE NGK
Mining technology made iridium practical, before- airplanes and race cars with $25 spark plugs were its main consumer

I use `8 bucks each` as a reference point, so people don't mistakenly buy 2 buck yellowshortbus brands~

If doing a seafoam BLAST thru master vac port- do it before spark plugs
no it wont hurt new plugs, but you also don't have to do a perfect after-drive when new plugs are next item replaced
Old 07-14-2014, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
that's what many of us use, plats were stock but gen3 came with irid ix, it works perfect for us. USE NGK
Mining technology made iridium practical, before- airplanes and race cars with $25 spark plugs were its main consumer

I use `8 bucks each` as a reference point, so people don't mistakenly buy 2 buck yellowshortbus brands~

If doing a seafoam BLAST thru master vac port- do it before spark plugs
no it wont hurt new plugs, but you also don't have to do a perfect after-drive when new plugs are next item replaced
Yeah, I definitely wouldn't go with $2 plugs. I saw several between $2 and $4, but I already know better than that. I've always used AC Delco in my previous cars, but they also weren't as demanding, so to speak, as the Acura is. So all this maintenance is new to me, but I'd like to take the best care of it and drive it until it can't drive anymore.
Old 07-14-2014, 02:45 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-seafoam-03-tl-s-638176/

While it doesn't specify a limit to introduce into the VAC line (it just says do it slowly), to be clear, does that imply that using the whole 16oz can of Seafoam is okay? Or is it possible to put *too much* Seafoam in the VAC line?
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