I'd like to flush the fluid on a 2003 TLS. I'd rather not do a 3x3, because I want to get rid of all the old fluid as efficiently as possible.

I've read that the TLS has an external cooler, and that the tranny can be flushed using the pressure line to that cooler. Makes sense -- if I could find the cooler. I've also read that the cooler is that silver device in front of the filler bolt. Could be -- but I don't see any fluid lines going on or out of it (coolant lines, yes).

So... Can I flush the tranny using the line from the filter? In this case, that line splits; one branch goes to the oil jet kit, and the second goes to a banjo fitting on the back side of the transmission case. I figure to disconnect the oil jet kit and the banjo fitting, plug one of the lines, then put the drain hose on the other. Of course, this all supposes that the fluid flows from the filter to the jet kit.

Questions:
- Is that silver device actually the cooler?
- Does the fluid flow from the filter to the jet kit (as shown by the blue arrows in the picture), or does it go the other way?
- Any other reason this might not work?

 

No no no... That only Works when you have an External Cooler (Ex: Comptech, H&B, etc.)..

You want to Flush ala ACCORD METHOD but the accord has an Internal Radiator Cooler that makes it easier to do the Accord Flush.. BUT the TL has no Internal Radiator Cooler so the Accord Method only applys to US with External Coolers.

You can still do it but you will need to provide a New line From the OIL JET KIT into an oil bucket.

 

What is the direction of the fluid flow? Does it go from the filter to the oil jet, or from the oil jet to the filter?

I'd tend to think that if the oil jet is supposed to be hosing something down, then the fluid would need to be coming down the jet and squirting out. Besides, that jet used to be a bolt. That can't be pressurized, can it? I mean, what happens when you fire up the car without the filler bolt in place? Does it blow fluid out the hole? How would you ever add fluid if that were the case?

Anyway, supplying a line from the oil jet to the bucket isn't a problem, except that it would only catch half the fluid (that's why I would plug the hose to the banjo fitting; to force all the fluid along a single path).

Either the banjo fitting or the filter has to be pressurized, right? If not, how did fluid flow between the two prior to the oil jet being installed?

The way I see it, there are three options:
- Fluid comes out of the banjo fitting on the back. Half goes to the oil jet, half goes to the filter. Only half the fluid gets filtered this way (and the pressure through the filter is lower, to boot), but that could be a weak link in the "fix".
- Fluid comes out of the filter. Half goes to the oil jet, half goes to the banjo fitting.
- Fluid comes out of the oil jet. Half goes to the banjo fitting, half goes to the filter. This wouldn't seem to make any sense at all.

Anyone know which of these is correct?

And another question: if one were to install an external cooler, where are the hoses to that cooler connected?

 

Oil comes out from the Filter inside the trans after the ATF Pump into the "Y" metal bracket into the Lower Trans housing and into the Jet Kit so its Half Half and yes Its Heavy Pressurised so any open end will leak like crazy.

Remember you only need To take out the ATF from either of those the main reason is to completely dry your trans (Full Trans takes 7.9q - ATF Change only Takes 3.1q).

Once you have completely empty the transmission you install eveything like it was and you MUST fill the trans to the top and Install the jet kit again or it will Leak all of the ATF! Dont start the engine with the Jet Kit outside the trans..
Once you Fill 3q start engine and let it circulate. Then shut the engine, open again and Refill.

I would not let the Engine run too much with the Trans DRY remember the Clutch Packs are still rotating with either ATF or Not... Damage can be done if you let the engine run for too much so be hasty.

Hope that Helps.

 

If I take from only one branch of the "Y", then some portion of the old fluid will return to the tranny, correct (either through the oil jet or the banjo fitting)?

So why wouldn't I put a hose on one branch and plug the other? Or put a hose on each branch and catch it all that way?

Why would I run it dry? As I understand it, I can drain the pan, add ~3 qts. of new fluid (to replace what I just drained out), then keep adding fluid while I run the engine to pump old the old fluid -- and as soon as the drain hose starts blowing clean fluid, shut off the engine and fill. This way, it never runs dry. Am I missing something here?

It does. Thanks for the info.

 

Aren't tranny flushes bad?
I would recommend a 3x3

 

Basically when you Start the Engine the pression will pump out all the ATF not only the Drain Value of 3q it will take even the ATF at the Torque Converter so you are basically drying up the Transmission.

This will happen so fast that if your doing both things alone it will probably drop more ATF than the 3q your aiming before refill.

The Accord method for a Person that doesnt have the External Cooler is very complicated IMO. You should do the 3x3 and leave it like that...

Only reason to do the Accord Method is to speed up the Drain process but you wont CLEAN the transmission with it like with the 3x3.






This is the "Accord Method" is not a Flush more like a Complete Automatic Drain system. and

 

Hey Konga Man, save yourself alot of potential grief.....just by a case of DW1 and do a 1x3 Drain & Fill of the tranny. Very simple and effective, especially when you want to gently replace the old fluid with the newer synthetic DW1. Don't wanna kick a sleeping dog !

This method will allow you to inspect the drain plug magnet and also acclimate the tranny to the newer fluid. You could do this in three separate stages at your convenience. Sometimes a bit of patience will help lessen the shock of a fast flush, IMO. Your tranny will react better to the slower process.