03 TL anyone have lug nut torque specs? better yet does anyone have a list of torque specs for diff location nuts all over the car? Drivers Manual has nothing.

 

80lb-ft

 

Thank you

 

Rule of thumb I was always told between 90-95ft/lbs for cars and 100-105 for SUV's and trucks. 40-60ft/lbs for lock nuts as well.

 

There is no such thing as "Rule of thumb" for lug nuts.

 

Very bad rule of thumb, but hey, go ahead and tighten your lugs to 95 and the lock at 40. Keep us posted how it all works out for ya

 

Torque specs for lug nuts is always in the owners manual under Tires, how to change a flat or something like that.

 

Wow so snarky. Though I agree, not a good idea.

 

You're right Karanx and I apologize Darksyne.

 

Horrible rule of thumb

 

Don't know where you people get your torque specs from. Most shops will torque your lug nuts to around 90-100 ft/lbs because they don't have time to look for lug nut torque specs. The lock nuts always gets torqued less so they don't get damaged on removal. I've done this on all my cars and the cars I've worked on and never had an issue... Just because it's not what you guys use doesn't mean it's wrong...

 

Um.. try the owner's manual?

or


You need to go to better shops... All the shops I go to look up the proper torque spec and then use a torque wrench to finish installing each wheel..

You're 24 years old and claiming, "all the cars I've worked on"... I think all those cars need to find a more competent monkey.


Or it IS wrong?
Do it right, or don't do it at all..

 

It's not what we say it's what Acura said.

 

But why would you put any clout on what Acura says... what would they know about their cars?

 

First of all I never said to not follow the torque specs. Im just letting you know the method that I and many other mechanics have been using for years. Just because I'm not a torque nazi like you doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing. I've probably turned my wrenches than you've had when you were my age.

 

So what you're basically saying is, "Follow the specs... no do it, I'm not telling you not to do it but I don't do it.. But i'm not wrong. I know a bunch of people that don't do it either but they're not wrong either. Just because I don't follow things to spec doesn't mean I'm wrong." and then some fodder about how you think you have experience despite EVERYONE else calling you out for being wrong.



Kids

How about just saying, "Oh.. okay yeah i don't do that but maybe I should start..."


Or just don't go on the Internet admitting how you don't know what you're doing but then proceed to give advice anyway?

 

Alright since you're such a smart ass why don't you provide proof to back up your claim instead of attacking people on a personal level about how you're right and other people are wrong? You really think your mechanic spends the time to look up the torque spec for each nut and bolt on each car he works on? besides if you know so much why do you take your car to a mechanic instead of doing the work yourself anyway? Lmao. Go troll another forum

 

There's a difference between being smart vs. being a smart ass...

The onus is on YOU because everyone else has the proof regarding torque specs. Why the hell do you think Acura engineers put them there, for giggles?
I provided my proof with Google and the Owner's Manual. Do you want me to find that for you? LMGTFY

We're talking about lug nuts aren't we? Why are you moving onto other parts of the car..?

My mechanic = me so yes, I have a service manual that I look at every time I work on my car/other people's cars to ensure I don't strip things and over-torque. If your mechanic doesn't, you should find a new one.

Or stop working on other people's cars..

Why are you getting so defensive when everyone is telling you you're wrong?

 

I'm only getting defensive because you're being personal about it and acting like an ass. At least iggy was man enough to apologize for sounding snarky even though I thought he wasn't but still. It isn't the end of the world by being off OEM torque specs by a little bit. I was saying what some mechanics use as a universal torque spec because they work flat rate in case you didn't know...

 

I'm sorry I hurt your feelings



Stop spreading misinformation

 

i just fuggin make sure that shit is tight with a breaker bar in a star pattern.

 

You're acting as if I'm telling people to just ram it home with an impact or just tight it down with a breaker bar... Now that's misinformation... Nothing wrong with the torque specs I've used or I'd be snapping studs and loosing wheels. Which has never happened...

 

Cmon guys... This was a simple question that was answered in comment #2

 

My 2 cents:
There's two ways to do something. Half assed or the correct way.

In the case of lugs, half assed gets the job done and "hopefully" with an element of safety.

The correct way is to do it per engineered specifications. This will eliminate guess work and ensure that too much or too little force in not exerted on the soft aluminum they rest on and the rotors behind that, not to mention the the studs themselves. Want a wheel that will roll smoothly for many many years? Torque it properly

 

Darksyne,

Let me explain to you why what you are doing is no right.

1. A 16 year old girl or ladies probably may not be able to remove lug nuts torque at 80 psi, even worse at 95 psi. Assuming 95 is the high limited but it could be higher.

2. The stud and lug nut threads start to deform at some point.

3. Rotors warp from being over torque.

 

This whole thread:

 

^^ lol

 

lmaoooo

 

Good point, didnt think that far lol thanks.

 

hit them with an air tools and be done...

 

When I get my tires done at Discount Tire they have 80 ft-lbs listed on my paperwork as the torque specs. So they know what it is, but they sure don't do a good job at it. I watched them and they put the lug nuts on with the impact gun, then torque them. It took me years to finally realize my brakes start to pulsate a few months *after* having them touch my wheels. New tires, rotation, whatever. They touch them, not long after my brakes start pulsating. I went through a lot of new brakes until I figured out torquing them properly keeps them from pulsing. Now I re-torque them any time anybody touches them, which is really only the tire shop cause I do everything else myself.

 

1. 80 lb feet.
2. Star pattern.
3. Retighten after driving around for, say, 25 miles.

#2 and #3 are almost as important as #1. I think mechanics overtorque because they don't anticipate people coming back to the shop for #3.

 

I would start to look into doing things the correct way and finding a different shop. Sure, you may have "never" had an issue doing it this way but its not the "correct" method. Always tighten ALL the lugnuts "Equally" Every factory service manual i have ever owned has stated such. Ive been doing it for close to 2 million miles of driving on all my vehicles (and countless miles on all the other vehicles i have worked on for friends) and never had an issue with damage of them on removal.

 

This is the answer -- exactly what the owner's manual says so no need to read the many other responses like I did

 

Welcome to the forum. BTW, this thread is over 2 years old.